2) micro1000s w/ 1) LFE output

levlhed
levlhed Posts: 24
I want to run two micropro 1000's off of my Onkyo SR806 which has 1 LFE output. Can I just run one RCA to the LFE-in of one sub, and then chain another RCA from the Line Out of that one into the LFE in on the second sub?

That is to ask, does the line-out pass whatever is put into the LFE input?
custom HTPC, Maya44 USB DAC, Dared SL-2000A, VTA Dynaco ST-70, Tekton Design OB4.5's and Polk DSW microPRO 2000's
Post edited by levlhed on
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Comments

  • concealer404
    concealer404 Posts: 7,440
    edited November 2009
    I usually prefer to get an RCA-splitter...
    I don't read the newsssspaperssss because dey aaaallllllllll...... have ugly print.

    Living Room: B&K Reference 5 S2 / Parasound HCA-1000A / Emotiva XDA-2 / Pioneer BDP-51FD / Paradigm 11se MKiii

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  • levlhed
    levlhed Posts: 24
    edited November 2009
    I don't want to run 2 long cords through my wall and I don't want to split the signal.
    I'd rather run only one long cable and one shorter cable between the two and not split the signal if it works.
    custom HTPC, Maya44 USB DAC, Dared SL-2000A, VTA Dynaco ST-70, Tekton Design OB4.5's and Polk DSW microPRO 2000's
  • Matt34
    Matt34 Posts: 318
    edited November 2009
    I don't think you can dasiy chain(salve) the micro-pros like you can say the JL audio subs. A spilter will not degrade the signal.

    I could be wrong in regards to the slave ability as I'm on my BB and can't confirm.
  • levlhed
    levlhed Posts: 24
    edited November 2009
    certainly the line out would at least pass the line in, right?
    Otherwise what is the line out for?

    I suppose it's possible that the line out would be passing the line in, but not pass the LFE in. In that case I'd run it that way and keep the crossovers inline. It'd be preferable to bypass the crossovers though since they are not needed.

    Splitting a signal *does* degrade the signal.
    It may not be a readily-audible degradation, but there's no way it doesn't degrade.
    custom HTPC, Maya44 USB DAC, Dared SL-2000A, VTA Dynaco ST-70, Tekton Design OB4.5's and Polk DSW microPRO 2000's
  • dorokusai
    dorokusai Posts: 25,577
    edited November 2009
    I believe it's about 3db of signal loss depending on the cable used....as a rough rule. It shouldn't be a problem.
    CTC BBQ Amplifier, Sonic Frontiers Line3 Pre-Amplifier and Wadia 581 SACD player. Speakers? Always changing but for now, Mission Argonauts I picked up for $50 bucks, mint.
  • Matt34
    Matt34 Posts: 318
    edited November 2009
    Like dorko said, you will lose signal strength which can be compensated for through gain controls but there should be no audible lose in quaility.
  • levlhed
    levlhed Posts: 24
    edited November 2009
    Yes, I get it. Splitting the signal works. Thanks.


    I'd still like to know if what I'm asking works.
    I can't find any info yet that definitively confirms/denies.
    custom HTPC, Maya44 USB DAC, Dared SL-2000A, VTA Dynaco ST-70, Tekton Design OB4.5's and Polk DSW microPRO 2000's
  • dorokusai
    dorokusai Posts: 25,577
    edited November 2009
    No, I'm told you cannot do that with the Micro-Pro. Just get a Y splitter that has male outputs and connect both subwoofers as you would a single subwoofer.
    CTC BBQ Amplifier, Sonic Frontiers Line3 Pre-Amplifier and Wadia 581 SACD player. Speakers? Always changing but for now, Mission Argonauts I picked up for $50 bucks, mint.
  • Cpyder
    Cpyder Posts: 514
    edited November 2009
    I checked the manual and it didn't really say. :( You might want to take a look, I skimmed and may have missed it though. Online manual on polkaudio.com
  • levlhed
    levlhed Posts: 24
    edited November 2009
    dorokusai wrote: »
    No, I'm told you cannot do that with the Micro-Pro.
    Told by who?

    Of course I read the manual already. I did that before asking here. I also searched the forum.
    custom HTPC, Maya44 USB DAC, Dared SL-2000A, VTA Dynaco ST-70, Tekton Design OB4.5's and Polk DSW microPRO 2000's
  • concealer404
    concealer404 Posts: 7,440
    edited November 2009
    If the manual doesn't say you can do it, then chances are that you can't. If nobody here says you can do it, then chances are that you can't.

    If you still don't believe anyone, then try it and see what happens.
    I don't read the newsssspaperssss because dey aaaallllllllll...... have ugly print.

    Living Room: B&K Reference 5 S2 / Parasound HCA-1000A / Emotiva XDA-2 / Pioneer BDP-51FD / Paradigm 11se MKiii

    Desk: Schiit Magni 2 Uber / Schiit Modi 2 Uber / ISK HD9999

    Office: Schiit Magni 2 Uber / Schiit Modi 2 Uber / Dynaco SCA-80Q / Paradigm Legend V.3

    HT: Denon AVR-X3400H / Sony UBP-X700 / RT16 / CS350LS / RT7 / SVS PB1000
  • dorokusai
    dorokusai Posts: 25,577
    edited November 2009
    levlhed wrote: »
    Told by who?

    Of course I read the manual already. I did that before asking here. I also searched the forum.

    Polk.
    CTC BBQ Amplifier, Sonic Frontiers Line3 Pre-Amplifier and Wadia 581 SACD player. Speakers? Always changing but for now, Mission Argonauts I picked up for $50 bucks, mint.
  • levlhed
    levlhed Posts: 24
    edited November 2009
    I've been around long enough to know better than to just readily take someone's words as the gospel truth on a forum. I don't believe *everything* I read. Since I'm new to this forum I do not have the benefit of knowing who's word to trust and who is just talking out of their behind.
    As usual in most public forums, I asked a question that didn't specifically get answered until I asked it again and again. Instead I got advice and guesses. If I wanted advice I'd have asked for advice. Advice is in abundance on public forums.

    If dorokusai was specifically told by someone at Polk who knows what they are being asked and knows what they are talking about, then I believe that what I want to do can not be done.

    Though I will be trying it anyway because I can :D Taking delivery of two of them today.
    I'll report back my findings for posterity's sake.

    Cheers!
    custom HTPC, Maya44 USB DAC, Dared SL-2000A, VTA Dynaco ST-70, Tekton Design OB4.5's and Polk DSW microPRO 2000's
  • concealer404
    concealer404 Posts: 7,440
    edited November 2009
    After all that you're going to try it anyways... :p

    Well... at least that's the right attitude. :)
    I don't read the newsssspaperssss because dey aaaallllllllll...... have ugly print.

    Living Room: B&K Reference 5 S2 / Parasound HCA-1000A / Emotiva XDA-2 / Pioneer BDP-51FD / Paradigm 11se MKiii

    Desk: Schiit Magni 2 Uber / Schiit Modi 2 Uber / ISK HD9999

    Office: Schiit Magni 2 Uber / Schiit Modi 2 Uber / Dynaco SCA-80Q / Paradigm Legend V.3

    HT: Denon AVR-X3400H / Sony UBP-X700 / RT16 / CS350LS / RT7 / SVS PB1000
  • levlhed
    levlhed Posts: 24
    edited November 2009
    yeah I know....

    I just wanted to know what cables I was going to need:)
    custom HTPC, Maya44 USB DAC, Dared SL-2000A, VTA Dynaco ST-70, Tekton Design OB4.5's and Polk DSW microPRO 2000's
  • concealer404
    concealer404 Posts: 7,440
    edited November 2009
    Two sub rcas.
    I don't read the newsssspaperssss because dey aaaallllllllll...... have ugly print.

    Living Room: B&K Reference 5 S2 / Parasound HCA-1000A / Emotiva XDA-2 / Pioneer BDP-51FD / Paradigm 11se MKiii

    Desk: Schiit Magni 2 Uber / Schiit Modi 2 Uber / ISK HD9999

    Office: Schiit Magni 2 Uber / Schiit Modi 2 Uber / Dynaco SCA-80Q / Paradigm Legend V.3

    HT: Denon AVR-X3400H / Sony UBP-X700 / RT16 / CS350LS / RT7 / SVS PB1000
  • Cpyder
    Cpyder Posts: 514
    edited November 2009
    You could just give Polk customer service a call today. Pretty sure they'd know more about their products than anyone here. They did design it by the way. :)
  • comfortablycurt
    comfortablycurt Posts: 6,745
    edited November 2009
    FWIW...Dorokusai works for Polk. You can probably take his word for fact on the topic.

    You're best off just getting a Y-splitter...it won't degrade the sound quality enough to even make it noticeable.
    The nirvana inducer-
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  • dorokusai
    dorokusai Posts: 25,577
    edited November 2009
    OK, just to clarify as I should have been more specific.....

    If you use the LFE Input on one subwoofer, you CANNOT use the Line Out to piggy back the other subwoofer.

    If you use the Line Input on one subwoofer, you CAN use the Line Output to piggy back the other subwoofer.

    Either way, ensure that your filter/crossover on the subwoofer is turned all the way up so you're not double filtering the signal.
    CTC BBQ Amplifier, Sonic Frontiers Line3 Pre-Amplifier and Wadia 581 SACD player. Speakers? Always changing but for now, Mission Argonauts I picked up for $50 bucks, mint.
  • levlhed
    levlhed Posts: 24
    edited November 2009
    Now that is the kind of specific clear answer I was looking for in the first place.
    And yes, it is exactly my experience now that I have them.

    Though the seller actually sent me a 2000 and a 1000 :( I don't need the added features of the 2000 and the finishes don't match! Not sure what I'm going to do about it yet...
    custom HTPC, Maya44 USB DAC, Dared SL-2000A, VTA Dynaco ST-70, Tekton Design OB4.5's and Polk DSW microPRO 2000's
  • concealer404
    concealer404 Posts: 7,440
    edited November 2009
    I was trying to figure out why you posted a manual boost controller in this thread for a minute...
    I don't read the newsssspaperssss because dey aaaallllllllll...... have ugly print.

    Living Room: B&K Reference 5 S2 / Parasound HCA-1000A / Emotiva XDA-2 / Pioneer BDP-51FD / Paradigm 11se MKiii

    Desk: Schiit Magni 2 Uber / Schiit Modi 2 Uber / ISK HD9999

    Office: Schiit Magni 2 Uber / Schiit Modi 2 Uber / Dynaco SCA-80Q / Paradigm Legend V.3

    HT: Denon AVR-X3400H / Sony UBP-X700 / RT16 / CS350LS / RT7 / SVS PB1000
  • levlhed
    levlhed Posts: 24
    edited November 2009
    I hadn't considered putting the splitter at the first sub instead of the LFE-out of the receiver. This would at least save me from two long cables through the wall. Thanks for the suggestion.
    custom HTPC, Maya44 USB DAC, Dared SL-2000A, VTA Dynaco ST-70, Tekton Design OB4.5's and Polk DSW microPRO 2000's
  • dorokusai
    dorokusai Posts: 25,577
    edited November 2009
    levlhed wrote: »
    I hadn't considered putting the splitter at the first sub instead of the LFE-out of the receiver. This would at least save me from two long cables through the wall. Thanks for the suggestion.

    I wasn't suggesting anything less than a splitter at the subwoofer end based on your original post from the beginning.
    CTC BBQ Amplifier, Sonic Frontiers Line3 Pre-Amplifier and Wadia 581 SACD player. Speakers? Always changing but for now, Mission Argonauts I picked up for $50 bucks, mint.
  • mak99
    mak99 Posts: 362
    edited November 2009
    Levlhed -

    I have two microPro 1000s fed by an Onkyo 805. I used an AudioQuest splitter at the Onkyo's sub connection, with equal lengths of sub cables into the subs LFE inputs.

    This works perfect for my setup as the subs are about three feet to either side of the amp. I didn't have to worry about long cable runs like you do - see pic below...

    Enjoy your microPros, they are amazing for their size! Though I am thinking about upgrading these to an HSU or SVS sub as I'd like to get deeper bass response. From what I've read about certain scenes in Transformers 2 *, the 1000's might not go low enough...always something to upgrade. :o

    * BTW, watch the Big Screen Edition from Walmart - amazing IMAX scenes!

    100_6802.JPG
    Main HT:JVC DLA-RS45135" Elite Screens fixed frame, 1.1 gainMarantz SR7007 (operating as pre-pro)Emotiva XPA-1 x3 (L+C+R), UPA-7 (surrounds)Oppo BDP-103D/BDP-83Toshiba HD-XA2Panamax M5410 Pro x3Polk LSiM707s, LSiC706, 80 F/X-LS, 65-RTSeaton Sound/MCCA MFW "Turbo" + custom Dayton SA1000 sub amp (orig. AV123 MFW-15)Velodyne SMS-1I/Cs: MP 12ga/4-cond (fronts); MP 12ga (surrounds), MP HDMI (all sources), some BJC sprinkled thruoutHarmony EliteSalamander Triple 40 C/B* still need to sell older but mint gear!!
  • levlhed
    levlhed Posts: 24
    edited November 2009
    Thanks again for all the help.

    I'm working on adding some weight to the subs to keep them from jumping(!) across the hardwood/laminate floor.
    I picked up some 12"x12"x1.5" concrete paving blocks. I got three for each sub. I want to put one underneath with dynamat between the slab and the floor and two on top of each sub probably with dynamat between the sub and concrete. I quickly tried it last night and they seem to do the trick!
    I am going to seal/paint the concrete yet and put on the dynamat/etc.

    My question is though what are the threads for the feet/spikes?
    I want to get some spikes.
    custom HTPC, Maya44 USB DAC, Dared SL-2000A, VTA Dynaco ST-70, Tekton Design OB4.5's and Polk DSW microPRO 2000's
  • levlhed
    levlhed Posts: 24
    edited November 2009
    That is to ask, what is the thread type/size for the feet/spikes on the bottom of the DSW's?
    Will these work?
    http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=240-725

    Thank you
    custom HTPC, Maya44 USB DAC, Dared SL-2000A, VTA Dynaco ST-70, Tekton Design OB4.5's and Polk DSW microPRO 2000's
  • mak99
    mak99 Posts: 362
    edited November 2009
    levlhed wrote: »
    That is to ask, what is the thread type/size for the feet/spikes on the bottom of the DSW's?
    Will these work?
    http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=240-725
    I don't think those spikes will work as direct replacements*. I used these very spikes many, many years ago on some huge, old-school Kenwood speakers. These spikes require you to drill a hole in the bottom of the cabinet to install the threaded inserts, something you probably don't want to do to your microPro.

    IIRC, I believe the threaded inserts for the rubber feet of the microPros is the same as that used for the combo rubber feet/spikes on the DSW Pros subs. I called a Polk CSR about a year ago to ask this, and the CSR confirmed they are the same thread pitch and I could buy the combo feet for $10/set of four. Since my microPros are sitting on carpet (with foundation slab below), I should revisit this to upgrade the stock rubber-only feet...

    * I see these spikes use a 1/4-20 thread, so if the microPro uses the same thread pitch, you could buy those spikes and just not use the inserts part...
    Main HT:JVC DLA-RS45135" Elite Screens fixed frame, 1.1 gainMarantz SR7007 (operating as pre-pro)Emotiva XPA-1 x3 (L+C+R), UPA-7 (surrounds)Oppo BDP-103D/BDP-83Toshiba HD-XA2Panamax M5410 Pro x3Polk LSiM707s, LSiC706, 80 F/X-LS, 65-RTSeaton Sound/MCCA MFW "Turbo" + custom Dayton SA1000 sub amp (orig. AV123 MFW-15)Velodyne SMS-1I/Cs: MP 12ga/4-cond (fronts); MP 12ga (surrounds), MP HDMI (all sources), some BJC sprinkled thruoutHarmony EliteSalamander Triple 40 C/B* still need to sell older but mint gear!!
  • levlhed
    levlhed Posts: 24
    edited November 2009
    mak99 wrote: »
    * I see these spikes use a 1/4-20 thread, so if the microPro uses the same thread pitch, you could buy those spikes and just not use the inserts part...

    Yes, I know.
    The question remains, what is the microPRO thread pitch?
    custom HTPC, Maya44 USB DAC, Dared SL-2000A, VTA Dynaco ST-70, Tekton Design OB4.5's and Polk DSW microPRO 2000's
  • dorokusai
    dorokusai Posts: 25,577
    edited November 2009
    1/4 - 20
    CTC BBQ Amplifier, Sonic Frontiers Line3 Pre-Amplifier and Wadia 581 SACD player. Speakers? Always changing but for now, Mission Argonauts I picked up for $50 bucks, mint.
  • levlhed
    levlhed Posts: 24
    edited November 2009
    sweet.
    thanks.
    custom HTPC, Maya44 USB DAC, Dared SL-2000A, VTA Dynaco ST-70, Tekton Design OB4.5's and Polk DSW microPRO 2000's