Bi-Wire to Straight Wire ???

hglass
hglass Posts: 7
My speakers are bi-wired. If I choose to bye pass the bi-wire and use straight wire, will I hear a difference in the speakers? Better, Worse??

Also I believe to bye pass the bi-wire setup on the speakers I have to connect the postive with the postive and the neg. with the neg. Than just connect the straight wire to the postive and neg. :confused:
Post edited by hglass on

Comments

  • ben62670
    ben62670 Posts: 15,969
    edited October 2009
    One set of better wire is better than a pair of cheaper wire.
    Ben
    Please. Please contact me a ben62670 @ yahoo.com. Make sure to include who you are, and you are from Polk so I don't delete your email. Also I am now physically unable to work on any projects. If you need help let these guys know. There are many people who will help if you let them know where you are.
    Thanks
    Ben
  • sTiLlLeArNiNg
    sTiLlLeArNiNg Posts: 805
    edited October 2009
    Why not use both and call it an orgy? :D
    Media Room 7.1
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  • hglass
    hglass Posts: 7
    edited October 2009
    come on guys please answer my question. If there is no benefit what is the purpose of bi-wire?
  • ben62670
    ben62670 Posts: 15,969
    edited October 2009
    hglass wrote: »
    come on guys please answer my question. If there is no benefit what is the purpose of bi-wire?

    I did.
    Thanks
    Ben
    Please. Please contact me a ben62670 @ yahoo.com. Make sure to include who you are, and you are from Polk so I don't delete your email. Also I am now physically unable to work on any projects. If you need help let these guys know. There are many people who will help if you let them know where you are.
    Thanks
    Ben
  • sTiLlLeArNiNg
    sTiLlLeArNiNg Posts: 805
    edited October 2009
    I personally think that bi-wiring aid's in separation however some disagree, IIRC you have a pretty good setup (classe/B&W) so you would probably notice a difference.

    But as ben previously stated "One set of better wire is better than a pair of cheaper wire." i would have to agree :)

    You could always use a single lead to the speaker's and replace the factory included jumper's on the speaker mounting plate with some wire jumper's, i feel this also give's an improvement. IIRC Manufacturer's like anticable and cardas manufacture them if you don't feel like making your own....

    :o
    Media Room 7.1
    Sharp lc37d64u | Sanus vmsab-03 | Sonax ZX8680 | Yamaha htr-6290b | Emotiva xpa1 x 2 & xpa5 | RTiA 9 & 7 | CSiA 6 | FXiA 6 | Sanus NF30B-03 | Velodyne dls-3750r | Dual 505-3 m97xe | Monster avs2000/hts5100

    HTPC
    Intel e5300 | Asus p5q DLX | LG ch08 BD | OCZ 4g reaper2 | WD 1TB | Sapphire 4890 VaporX 1g | Asus Xonar HDAV 1.3 | OCZ modXtreme 700w | Antec Fusion remote MAX

    A fool and his money are easily parted
    I don't drink Koolaid

    Need some cable's? Just ask :)
  • ben62670
    ben62670 Posts: 15,969
    edited October 2009
    I run my own silvers on the highs, and AQ CV4's on the lows, but dollar for dollar you have a hard time beating a single set of good cables.
    Ben
    Please. Please contact me a ben62670 @ yahoo.com. Make sure to include who you are, and you are from Polk so I don't delete your email. Also I am now physically unable to work on any projects. If you need help let these guys know. There are many people who will help if you let them know where you are.
    Thanks
    Ben
  • vc69
    vc69 Posts: 2,500
    edited October 2009
    I don't know that this will be of help to you, but here goes.
    I have done the single wire/jumper thing for a long time. I use good, jacketed pro grade (as in P.A) 12ga. wire. It's the same wire I have used to wire a ton of amp racks in my days as a live sound engineer. (For the long runs, we used something different. That wire is the size of a garden hose, is 4 conductor and rather unsightly for home applications, though I would like to try it sometime.)
    It has always sounded good to me. Very good.

    Recently I got the chance to try out some Transparent MusicWave biwire cables. I thought that at least they would allow me get rid of those damn jumpers which I hate and besides, they look cool.

    To my ears, there was a difference in the cables. I'm not sure I would spend what these puppies cost for the difference I heard though.

    My instinct tells me that doing away with the jumper and using a single wire/quality jumper wire would be just as effective, but I have yet to try that. I have the Transparents, so I'm using them.

    In the end, these are things you just have to try for yourself and listen to the results. Then you know what works best for you. I have some more listening to do on this one to make a solid call for myself.

    Hope that helps in some small way.

    /.02
    -Kevin
    HT: Philips 52PFL7432D 52" LCD 1080p / Onkyo TX-SR 606 / Oppo BDP-83 SE / Comcast cable. (all HDMI)B&W 801 - Front, Polk CS350 LS - Center, Polk LS90 - Rear
    2 Channel:
    Oppo BDP-83 SE
    Squeezebox Touch
    Muscial Fidelity M1 DAC
    VTL 2.5
    McIntosh 2205 (refurbed)
    B&W 801's
    Transparent IC's
  • dvran
    dvran Posts: 280
    edited October 2009
    I asked the same question and no, there is no advantage to bi-wiring.
    ~Dan

    Projector: Epson 705HD on 106" DaLite
    TV: Samsung 50" Plasma PN50B550
    Receiver: Onkyo 607
    Fronts: Polk 1000i
    Center: Polk Csi40
    Rears: Polk Fxi30
    Sub: Velodyne Minivee 10
    PS3 and Xbox
  • Face
    Face Posts: 14,340
    edited October 2009
    Just use a pair of high quality jumpers and call it a day.
    "He who fights with monsters should look to it that he himself does not become a monster. And when you gaze long into an abyss the abyss also gazes into you." Friedrich Nietzsche
  • vc69
    vc69 Posts: 2,500
    edited October 2009
    Btw... welcome to CP!
    -Kevin
    HT: Philips 52PFL7432D 52" LCD 1080p / Onkyo TX-SR 606 / Oppo BDP-83 SE / Comcast cable. (all HDMI)B&W 801 - Front, Polk CS350 LS - Center, Polk LS90 - Rear
    2 Channel:
    Oppo BDP-83 SE
    Squeezebox Touch
    Muscial Fidelity M1 DAC
    VTL 2.5
    McIntosh 2205 (refurbed)
    B&W 801's
    Transparent IC's
  • jimmydep
    jimmydep Posts: 1,305
    edited October 2009
    I too have found very little benefit to bi-wiring or even bi-amping.
  • anhchungdoan
    anhchungdoan Posts: 760
    edited October 2009
    hglass wrote: »
    come on guys please answer my question. If there is no benefit what is the purpose of bi-wire?

    I am afraid to say that there is "virtually" no difference in SQ. You need to try it yourself and hear it yourself.

    Funny thing is a few posters wanted to know if there is any benefit to bi-amp their AVRs. Frankly, it's a waste of time and energy. These passive bi-amp litteratures from these AVRs are just "HYPE" of selling point.
  • olilugo
    olilugo Posts: 405
    edited October 2009
    I will be on the side of I notice a difference by having my fronts and center speakers in bi-wire mode instead of strait. It was a small change but a change for the better none the less, to the point I fell no need to do any more tweaking with my system.
    Current HT setup
    Mains: B&W 804s
    Center: Polk CSi5
    Surround: Polk FXi3
    Sub: Velodyne DLS-3750R
    Receiver: Pioneer SC-07
    Amplifier: Sunfire TGA5200
    TV: Sony KDS60A2020
    DBP: Sony DBP-S350
    CDP: Pioneer DV-48AV
    Interconnect cables: SignalCable analog II
    speaker cables: SignalCable Ultra Speaker Cables Bi-wire
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,729
    edited October 2009
    What speakers? What cables? What power? 2 channel or HT?

    One either uses bi-wires or single run speaker cables. There is no bypassing involved.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • hglass
    hglass Posts: 7
    edited October 2009
    I have B&W speakers left/center/right. I have a Classe amp Model CAV 180x5. I also have a Meridian 861 A/V processor.
  • olilugo
    olilugo Posts: 405
    edited October 2009
    hglass wrote: »
    I have B&W speakers left/center/right. I have a Classe amp Model CAV 180x5. I also have a Meridian 861 A/V processor.

    I read the user guide for the b&W 804's and they specifically say to bi-wire.

    BTW nice gear.
    Current HT setup
    Mains: B&W 804s
    Center: Polk CSi5
    Surround: Polk FXi3
    Sub: Velodyne DLS-3750R
    Receiver: Pioneer SC-07
    Amplifier: Sunfire TGA5200
    TV: Sony KDS60A2020
    DBP: Sony DBP-S350
    CDP: Pioneer DV-48AV
    Interconnect cables: SignalCable analog II
    speaker cables: SignalCable Ultra Speaker Cables Bi-wire
  • dorokusai
    dorokusai Posts: 25,577
    edited October 2009
    I've never found a benefit to bi-wiring but I do use bi-wire cables.
    CTC BBQ Amplifier, Sonic Frontiers Line3 Pre-Amplifier and Wadia 581 SACD player. Speakers? Always changing but for now, Mission Argonauts I picked up for $50 bucks, mint.
  • anhchungdoan
    anhchungdoan Posts: 760
    edited October 2009
    dorokusai wrote: »
    I've never found a benefit to bi-wiring but I do use bi-wire cables.

    Yeah, bi-wire, passive bi-amp...was a big hype of the old school of thought in the 80s.

    Active bi-amp ,yes but passive bi-amp and bi-wiring are "virtually" no benefit to the end-users but the cable company and speaker manufatures.

    Only a hand full co such as B &W will recommend passive bi-amp due to their internal X-over design (?):confused:
  • hglass
    hglass Posts: 7
    edited October 2009
  • CoolJazz
    CoolJazz Posts: 570
    edited October 2009
    Whether bi-wiring makes a difference in your individual case depends on the amps output source impedance, the resistance of the speaker wire and it's contacts and then very importantly, the impedance and phase angles demanded by the drivers and their filters (the crossover). Each and every case and results may differ, depending on these issues.

    For somebody to say "Bi-wiring is stupid, doesn't work and you're dumb to try it" is rather closed minded...unless your aware of and informed on all the above issues in the individual situation. Power drop and the laws of electrical current flow are still the same today as it was in the 80's...until Roger Russell says otherwise. :D

    A better answer to this seemingly weekly question is more along the lines of "It depends on the equipment you use but for me....".

    Just sayin' it could be bad advice your passin' out if you rule it out offhand.

    CoolJazz
    A so called science type proudly says... "I do realize that I would fool myself all the time, about listening conclusions and many other observations, if I did listen before buying. That’s why I don’t, I bought all of my current gear based on technical parameters alone, such as specs and measurements."

    More amazing Internet Science Pink Panther wisdom..."My DAC has since been upgraded from Mark Levinson to Topping."
  • anhchungdoan
    anhchungdoan Posts: 760
    edited October 2009
    CoolJazz wrote: »
    Whether bi-wiring makes a difference in your individual case depends on the amps output source impedance, the resistance of the speaker wire and it's contacts and then very importantly, the impedance and phase angles demanded by the drivers and their filters (the crossover). Each and every case and results may differ, depending on these issues.

    For somebody to say "Bi-wiring is stupid, doesn't work and you're dumb to try it" is rather closed minded...unless your aware of and informed on all the above issues in the individual situation. Power drop and the laws of electrical current flow are still the same today as it was in the 80's...until Roger Russell says otherwise. :D

    A better answer to this seemingly weekly question is more along the lines of "It depends on the equipment you use but for me....".

    Just sayin' it could be bad advice your passin' out if you rule it out offhand.

    CoolJazz

    To say" Bi-wiring is stupid...you're dumb to try...is rather closed minded..

    These are pretty not only strong but rude and uncivilized way to make a statement. I agree with you.

    The same can be applied with " This xyz is the best cables" statement. This is not only shallow but ignorant statement that comes from a person who needs self validation. Since there is NO best cables, NO best amplifier...I 'd rather see a notion of IMHO or IMS.

    I "virtually" see no difference in bi-wiring but there is other poster who sees the benefit.

    Regarding about passive bi-amp from an AVR, I have to say it is simply not working but B & W will not recommend active bi-amp their speakers at the same token, they did not address that pasive bi-amp from a multi-chanel AVR will work either.:) Peace, brother.
  • bigaudiofanatic
    bigaudiofanatic Posts: 4,415
    edited October 2009
    ben62670 wrote: »
    One set of better wire is better than a pair of cheaper wire.
    Ben

    Ya right wire is wire. Anyway it depends on the unit. The LSI 25's with by amp you can not use the sub input because all the bi amp is doing is grabbing the sub signal from the speaker wires. I would say no you probably will not hear a difference. You could just twist both wires together and have a double pair. Just my .02
    HT setup
    Panasonic 50" TH-50PZ80U
    Denon DBP-1610
    Monster HTS 1650
    Carver A400X :cool:
    MIT Exp 3 Speaker Wire
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  • Face
    Face Posts: 14,340
    edited October 2009
    You really don't have a clue do you?
    "He who fights with monsters should look to it that he himself does not become a monster. And when you gaze long into an abyss the abyss also gazes into you." Friedrich Nietzsche
  • MLZ
    MLZ Posts: 214
    edited October 2009
    I bi-wired because I bought some Canare StarQuad and could and read at http://www.polkaudio.com/education/showanswer.php?question_num=53 Polk says "The midrange "opened up," becoming clearer and more detailed with improved three-dimensional imaging. Voices and other midrange sounds were more "out-of-the-box" than with the single wire hookup. " etc. but I heard no difference. So I looked at the wiring diagram (I took a couple of Electrical Engineering courses before moving on to Business) and saw all I did was move the jumper from the speaker terminals back to the amplifier terminals.

    "186000 Miles Per Second. It's not just a good idea - IT'S THE LAW."
  • vc69
    vc69 Posts: 2,500
    edited October 2009
    Ya right wire is wire. Anyway it depends on the unit. The LSI 25's with by amp you can not use the sub input because all the bi amp is doing is grabbing the sub signal from the speaker wires. I would say no you probably will not hear a difference. You could just twist both wires together and have a double pair. Just my .02

    Wow.
    Face wrote: »
    You really don't have a clue do you?

    I think not.
    -Kevin
    HT: Philips 52PFL7432D 52" LCD 1080p / Onkyo TX-SR 606 / Oppo BDP-83 SE / Comcast cable. (all HDMI)B&W 801 - Front, Polk CS350 LS - Center, Polk LS90 - Rear
    2 Channel:
    Oppo BDP-83 SE
    Squeezebox Touch
    Muscial Fidelity M1 DAC
    VTL 2.5
    McIntosh 2205 (refurbed)
    B&W 801's
    Transparent IC's
  • tugzy
    tugzy Posts: 46
    edited January 2010
    Ya right wire is wire. Anyway it depends on the unit. The LSI 25's with by amp you can not use the sub input because all the bi amp is doing is grabbing the sub signal from the speaker wires. I would say no you probably will not hear a difference. You could just twist both wires together and have a double pair. Just my .02

    what? LoL....

    Polk RTi A9, Polk CSi A6
    Paradigm Sub, Side, Rears
    Emotiva XPA-2, Pioneer Elite VSX-01TXH A/V 7.1
    LG BD390C BR, LG 60PG60 Plasma
    Hotaudio DAC Extacy

    XPA-2/RTiA9 in Action
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-rtxxb2RIws
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bgWk-fCAooo
    --vintage--
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  • Murray1
    Murray1 Posts: 193
    edited January 2010
    If you choose to bi wire, I bought canare from blue jeans that worked great.