Braking problem

Norm Apter

In the conventional sense, my brakes work fine. They bring me to a stop smoothly without any loud noises.

However, over the past month a different sort of problem has arisen. They seem to get partially stuck. Here's the best way I can explain it (btw, my car is an automatic): you know how when you are at a stoplight and if you don't apply your brake, your car would edge forward slightly. Well, when my brakes are partially stuck, I can take my foot completely off the brake pedal and the car will be stationery, locked in place. Once I put my foot on the gas, its enough to get me going but I can notice there is some slight resistance. Where this resistance becomes much more obvious is at higher speeds on the freeway. Once I get up to speeds of 55 or so there is a fairly loud noise and even a slight shaking. It doesn't sound good.

Here's the weird thing though: this has been occurring on and off for the past month, about 20-30% of my driving time. It slips in and out of this mode without me doing anything. That is, 70-80% of the time everything will be fine, and then all of a sudden inexplicably it will get partially stuck. In addition to much reduced gas mileage (while there is that resistance), driving on the freeway in particular doesn't feel safe so I'm going to take it into a mechanic soon.

Before I do that, I wanted to check here first to see if anybody has experienced or knows anything about this kind of problem. Obviously, if I have to completely replace my brakes / braking system then I'll do it...don't want to screw around. But if its just a matter of replacing this or that part or having this or that tightened then I would like to have that knowledge in case a mechanic tries to push me into doing something that might not be necessary (at much greater cost).

Thanks,
Norm

ben62670

Hey Norm. Some of the newer cars have a teflon liner that acts like a check valve. My Mom's car had that issue. When I hit the brakes it pulled to the left, and then the right brake would grab all of a sudden and lock up:eek: The brake lines are very cheap.
Be safe!
Ben

bobman1235

Sounds like a sticky caliper to me. Get it fixed ASAP, eventually it's gonna stay stuck, yoru brakes will overheat and either lock up or be useless to you.

nadams

Most likely, the slide pins on the calipers are dry and are sticking. This is the best way to warp your rotors and destroy your pads.

The other possibility is a collapsed brake hose. When you push on the pedal, the brake booster is enough to get the fluid to flow through the hose to the caliper, but, the hose then "sucks shut" when you release the pedal, and the caliper remains engaged.

Either one will cause you to destroy your brakes in short order if you continue driving like this. Especially at highway speeds.

Jstas

nadams wrote: »

Most likely, the slide pins on the calipers are dry and are sticking. This is the best way to warp your rotors and destroy your pads.

It'll destroy wheel bearings as well due to excessive heat. Dragging pads can also start a fire if they are dragging as much as the OP states. The heat build-up can be drastic enough to make steel start to glow. The other problem is that brake fluid starts to boil. When that happens, it loses the viscosity needed to operate the braking system and then all brakes fail, not just one.

nadams wrote: »

The other possibility is a collapsed brake hose. When you push on the pedal, the brake booster is enough to get the fluid to flow through the hose to the caliper, but, the hose then "sucks shut" when you release the pedal, and the caliper remains engaged.

Otherwise known as a vacuum leak. This isn't real common on modern vehicles with anti-lock braking systems anymore. Mainly because the hoses aren't just rubber but have webbing molded in the rubber to support the higher line pressures that a modern ABS system uses.

nadams wrote: »

Either one will cause you to destroy your brakes in short order if you continue driving like this. Especially at highway speeds.

It can cause you to destroy yourself as well. It's a dangerous situation and the longer he waits to get it fixed, the more it will cost to fix.


Norm, you're brakes are not working fine. If you don't have the technical ability or tools to properly troubleshoot the problem, get it to a service center...like...now. Brakes are not something to mess around with and a dragging caliper has the potential to cause way more than an odd braking sensation.

Norm Apter

Jstas wrote: »

It'll destroy wheel bearings as well due to excessive heat. Dragging pads can also start a fire if they are dragging as much as the OP states. The heat build-up can be drastic enough to make steel start to glow. The other problem is that brake fluid starts to boil. When that happens, it loses the viscosity needed to operate the braking system and then all brakes fail, not just one.



Otherwise known as a vacuum leak. This isn't real common on modern vehicles with anti-lock braking systems anymore. Mainly because the hoses aren't just rubber but have webbing molded in the rubber to support the higher line pressures that a modern ABS system uses.



It can cause you to destroy yourself as well. It's a dangerous situation and the longer he waits to get it fixed, the more it will cost to fix.


Norm, you're brakes are not working fine. If you don't have the technical ability or tools to properly troubleshoot the problem, get it to a service center...like...now. Brakes are not something to mess around with and a dragging caliper has the potential to cause way more than an odd braking sensation.

Thanks for all of the responses guys. These help a lot. OK, now I know to take care of this pronto. I definately have neither the tools nor the technical know-how. By the way, Jstas, do you (or anyone else who has responded) recommend a brake specialty place, a Nissan service center, or just any service center will do (based on the complexity of what needs to be done)?

The car is a 2006 Nissan Sentra that I bought in July 2008. Unfortunately, I don't have a trusted mechanic, as this is the first issue I've had and will be the first time I'm taking it in for something other than an oil change or tire rotation.

danger boy

bobman1235 wrote: »

Sounds like a sticky caliper to me. Get it fixed ASAP, eventually it's gonna stay stuck, yoru brakes will overheat and either lock up or be useless to you.

this sounds about right to me too. caliper problem.

Willow

Norm Apter wrote: »

Thanks for all of the responses guys. These help a lot. OK, now I know to take care of this pronto. I definately have neither the tools nor the technical know-how. By the way, Jstas, do you (or anyone else who has responded) recommend a brake specialty place, a Nissan service center, or just any service center will do (based on the complexity of what needs to be done)?

The car is a 2006 Nissan Sentra that I bought in July 2008. Unfortunately, I don't have a trusted mechanic, as this is the first issue I've had and will be the first time I'm taking it in for something other than an oil change or tire rotation.

I know you said you don't have a trusted mechanic right now, but when we got a quote from our Nissan dealer to do the work, it was 300$ more that we paid from a local mom-pop type garage. That was to have full break service on the fronts. Just to keep in mind.

concealer404

I'd take it to whatever mom and pop place your friend recommend. Brakes aren't rocket science.

Kindof perturbing that a 2006 model anything would have brake problems other than the normal pads/rotors, though.

Willow

concealer404 wrote: »

Kindof perturbing that a 2006 model anything would have brake problems other than the normal pads/rotors, though.

I guess you don't own a 2006 Nissan. Ours is a 2k6 Xtrail and have had all 4 breaks done in the past year and now the rears are sticking, they need to be serviced.

everpress

A car is designed to do 3 things when you break it down:
1) Go forward
2) Turn
3) Stop
Your car is beginning to fail at doing one third of it's job... IF I did only 2/3 of my job, I'd get fired.

It's time to get that looked at.

concealer404

Willow wrote: »

I guess you don't own a 2006 Nissan. Ours is a 2k6 Xtrail and have had all 4 breaks done in the past year and now the rears are sticking, they need to be serviced.

Nope. Newest car i own is a 1993. The 1990 and 1993 are both still on original braking hardware, besides pads and rotors, obviously.

Serendipity

You probably have a stuck caliper.

I had the same exact thing happen on my Nissan a few months ago, and it warped the rotor.

Get it fixed ASAP!

polktiger

Norm Apter wrote: »

Unfortunately, I don't have a trusted mechanic, as this is the first issue I've had and will be the first time I'm taking it in for something other than an oil change or tire rotation.

You are not alone. I haven't been able to find a mechanic in years much less a trusted mechanic. Seems like all our local garages have closed and all we have left are dealer service depts or oil/tire/brake/muffler franchise shops that don't have mechanics so much as they have guys that can replace whatever part the onboard diagnositc tells them to replace.

sucks2beme

Just Brakes=WTF?
I think the local shop had one small roll around all 8 guys were working from.
One spoke English. Stay away. Dumber than a rock.
Last time I went to Midas(many years ago) they forgot to tighter a
bleeder and I got a nasty surprise. 90% of the time I do my own.
I don't know that you can't trust them to be honest as much as
you can't trust them to be competent.

Either way, ask for an inspection somewhere where it's free.
And then walk away, go to the next one and see if both have the same answer.

F1nut

Sounds like a sticky caliper to me.

Agreed.

gdb

You can/should look for a shop that is either AAA or Better Business Bureau approved. If someone added contaminated or the wrong type of B. fluid that can raise Hell with the whole system. B fluid can & will absorb water(FYI...it's also a very effective paint remover, so be careful not to get any on your finish:eek:) Calipers can be re-built, and that's what Advance & Auto Zone mainly sell. If you need rotors, I'd suggest "Brembo" brand, one of the few that aren't Chinese manuf. For pads I use Adaptive One ceramic type and they seem to be holding up pretty well. I can't imagine that you'd have bad hoses on a car so new, if so, I hope they're not a dealer only part(expensive). Lastly....whatever you do, DO NOT allow the ABS/Traction Control Unit to drain dry of fluid, and it's a good idea to completely flush/bleed all four wheels.(I do it myself every 2 years or so with a "Mighty Vac" pump. I had a POS 1974 BMW 2002 that "boiled the B. fluid" all the time, so much for superior/ultimate blah blah blah! Good luck !!!:)Link to pads sold by NAPA below:

http://www.adaptiveone.com/

shawn474

I got some brake issues going on as well. Seems that when Nissan manufactured the Titan, they really skimped on the rotors. They charged me 300 to resurface the rotors last year!!!! Had I known anything at the time, I would have just replaced them myself. Well, they are warped again and I'll be damned if they are gonna do the same thing. So I just ordered new rotors and pads all the way around for less than $575 and will gladly take the time to do them myself. They quoted me $1685 to replace them all with the craptastic OEM ones.

Shawn

concealer404

shawn474 wrote: »

I got some brake issues going on as well. Seems that when Nissan manufactured the Titan, they really skimped on the rotors. They charged me 300 to resurface the rotors last year!!!! Had I known anything at the time, I would have just replaced them myself. Well, they are warped again and I'll be damned if they are gonna do the same thing. So I just ordered new rotors and pads all the way around for less than $575 and will gladly take the time to do them myself. They quoted me $1685 to replace them all with the craptastic OEM ones.

Shawn

OH dude....

Just as a "for future reference" tip, you can get your rotors resurfaced at most parts stores for like $5-10 per rotor.

shawn474

concealer404 wrote: »

OH dude....

Just as a "for future reference" tip, you can get your rotors resurfaced at most parts stores for like $5-10 per rotor.

Oh trust me, I admit I was an uneducated consumer in the dealership with sucker stamped across my forehead. I was in a hurry getting something else taken care of under warranty and on their inspection they noticed my rotors were warped and I had the steering wheel judder during braking. It was something at the time that I just wanted to get done and out of there - I didn't even ask the cost until the service was performed. That will not happen again. It wasn't the cost of the actual resurfacing; they said it was the hourly wage of the mechanic and the "the book" said the job took 1.5 units or some **** like that (even though it probably took all of 15 minutes to remove, resurface and replace). From that day forward, I swore to the gods above and to everything that is holy I would eductae myself and do the job myself (whenever I felt comfortable enough not to F it up). Since then, I have done all of my regular services (besides oil changes - some things just aren't worth the hassle to save 5 or 10 bucks).

bobman1235

Resurfacing warped rotors is a pretty hit or miss operation. It's one thign if they're a little scored but if they're actually warped the odds of a resurfacing fixing the problem are pretty low.

gdb

The thing about turning rotors is, once they've gotten too hot, warped and been turned one time, they're thinner and even if there's enough thickness left to turn a second time, the thinner rotor is almost guaranteed to warp again shortly thereafter!:eek: Truck rotors are incredibly expensive, even the junky ones from China. If it doesn't "break the bank", consider buying aftermarket, slotted/cross drilled ones. Much more warp resistant and better stopping, especially in the rain!

One of many internet sellers:;)

http://brakeperformance.com/site/brake_rotors.php?ad=google&gclid=CP-h0_zky50CFVRM5Qod1AKVyA

concealer404

Ooooo.... no. Slotted/drilled is a bad idea.

Just slotted, MAYBE. Drilled is a definite no-no.

gdb

How So ???

concealer404

gdb wrote: »

How So ???

Way more prone to cracking, and less mass to dissapate heat.

I cracked two drilled rotors back in my ricer days, and will never try them again.

If you put a dye on brand new drilled rotors, you'll see stress cracks already all over the rotor. That alone scares the hell out of me.

Even on my track day car, i just use Brembo blanks and EBC Yellowstuff pads.

You may see a slight improvement in wet braking as you say with slotted rotors, but they'll eat pads a lot quicker, too.

gdb

The biggest gripe I have is all the fuzzy, insulating rust that forms in between the discs on vented rotors !! Some day I'm gonna mask off the friction surfaces and dip the rotors in some hi heat paint and see how that works !:)

shawn474

Well, now that I have gotten your ears these are the ones that I went with. I have heard great things about these rotors and pads. These are the ones I went with after numerous recommendations. The pads were especially confusing because of the ceramic vs. non-ceramic debate, semi-metallic etc.

I'd be interested to hear your guys opinions:

http://www.autoanything.com/brakes/61A3068A0A0.aspx

http://www.autoanything.com/brakes/61A3070A0A0.aspx

Shawn

nooshinjohn

Norm Apter wrote: »

The car is a 2006 Nissan Sentra that I bought in July 2008. Unfortunately, I don't have a trusted mechanic, as this is the first issue I've had and will be the first time I'm taking it in for something other than an oil change or tire rotation.

I would at least touch bases with the dealer, as it may still be a warranty issue. This would of course depend on mileage and other factors. A binding caliper is not considered a wear item like pads and rotors are. If you are out of warranty, take it to Midas or somewhere similar.

concealer404

shawn474 wrote: »

Well, now that I have gotten your ears these are the ones that I went with. I have heard great things about these rotors and pads. These are the ones I went with after numerous recommendations. The pads were especially confusing because of the ceramic vs. non-ceramic debate, semi-metallic etc.

I'd be interested to hear your guys opinions:

http://www.autoanything.com/brakes/61A3068A0A0.aspx

http://www.autoanything.com/brakes/61A3070A0A0.aspx

Shawn

You did get them for a Titan, right?

You should be ok... but i wouldn't have chosen those rotors. Those pads are very good, i run them on all of my street cars.

shawn474

Yes they are for a Titan. The only other rotors that I considered were Frozen Rotors - but I wanted to save a bit of money and that's where I could cut a little and from all indications wouldn't scarafice a lot in performance, wear, longevity or durability. What would you have chosen?

concealer404

shawn474 wrote: »

Yes they are for a Titan. The only other rotors that I considered were Frozen Rotors - but I wanted to save a bit of money and that's where I could cut a little and from all indications wouldn't scarafice a lot in performance, wear, longevity or durability. What would you have chosen?

I swear by Brembo blanks.

EBC makes good rotors, though, i just would have stayed away from the drilled for the reasons i posted above.

Frozen Rotors are much like Bose.

I've run the same set of Brembo blanks on my main "toy" car for a year and a half, and it's survived autocross events, track days, backroad shenanigans, the days i want to commute in it, and three trips out to Deal's Gap. And that's with some VERY harsh pads, which in the past i've seen destroy a set of Toyota rotors in less than 6 months.