SDA-1C Speaker screw replacement ideas

thsmith
thsmith Posts: 6,082
edited September 2009 in Vintage Speakers
I will be opening up my 1Cs to upgrade the XOs. While I am at at it I was wondering what options there are for using machine screws and some sort of T-nut or whatever to replace the wood screws that hold the speakers.

Thanks,

TS
Speakers: SDA-1C (most all the goodies)
Preamp: Joule Electra LA-150 MKII SE
Amp: Wright WPA 50-50 EAT KT88s
Analog: Marantz TT-15S1 MBS Glider SL| Wright WPP100C Amperex BB 6er5 and 7316 & WPM-100 SUT
Digital: Mac mini 2.3GHz dual-core i5 8g RAM 1.5 TB HDD Music Server Amarra (memory play) - USB - W4S DAC 2
Cables: Mits S3 IC and Spk cables| PS Audio PCs
Post edited by thsmith on

Comments

  • george daniel
    george daniel Posts: 12,096
    edited September 2009
    if,,I know I'm done with them,,I lightly coat the screw with a good wood glue,,if I'm concerbed about the hole enlarging,, i use toothpicks and boom,, good to go,, I'm also sure that someone will find something "clever" about my wording--Good luck--george
    JC approves....he told me so. (F-1 nut)
  • Conradicles
    Conradicles Posts: 6,134
    edited September 2009
    What about a screw that is slightly larger and deeper?
  • george daniel
    george daniel Posts: 12,096
    edited September 2009
    I guess you could,,I just have been able to use the oem screws without any issues,,and I've owned too many sets of SDA's,, I have had my 1C's down/apart twice,and do not forsee opening them back up,,if you really wanna know--ask the resident "wood ninja",,he'll give you the straight.
    JC approves....he told me so. (F-1 nut)
  • thsmith
    thsmith Posts: 6,082
    edited September 2009
    Thanks guys, I do not think the drivers have ever been out of my SDA's except when I upgraded to RDOs.

    It would be nice to have machine screws but it could be riskier to add T-nuts than using wood glue or pieces of wood shavings.
    Speakers: SDA-1C (most all the goodies)
    Preamp: Joule Electra LA-150 MKII SE
    Amp: Wright WPA 50-50 EAT KT88s
    Analog: Marantz TT-15S1 MBS Glider SL| Wright WPP100C Amperex BB 6er5 and 7316 & WPM-100 SUT
    Digital: Mac mini 2.3GHz dual-core i5 8g RAM 1.5 TB HDD Music Server Amarra (memory play) - USB - W4S DAC 2
    Cables: Mits S3 IC and Spk cables| PS Audio PCs
  • NJPOLKER
    NJPOLKER Posts: 3,474
    edited September 2009
    If you do some searches you should run across a post or thread from F1nut who address this subject.
  • thsmith
    thsmith Posts: 6,082
    edited September 2009
    Good one. Thanks. I do not expect any to be stripped out but you never know.

    http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/showpost.php?p=949935&postcount=11
    Speakers: SDA-1C (most all the goodies)
    Preamp: Joule Electra LA-150 MKII SE
    Amp: Wright WPA 50-50 EAT KT88s
    Analog: Marantz TT-15S1 MBS Glider SL| Wright WPP100C Amperex BB 6er5 and 7316 & WPM-100 SUT
    Digital: Mac mini 2.3GHz dual-core i5 8g RAM 1.5 TB HDD Music Server Amarra (memory play) - USB - W4S DAC 2
    Cables: Mits S3 IC and Spk cables| PS Audio PCs
  • bigaltx24
    bigaltx24 Posts: 141
    edited September 2009
    I've used these and socket head cap screws before on other speaker projects. Very solid connection, and you can disassemble, reassemble as much as you want without worrying about stripping anything out.
    http://www.mcmaster.com/#threaded-inserts/=3v38ks
    Denon PMA-900V
    Linn Axis with Grado Red
    Cambridge Azur 650C
    Polk SDA-1BTL