Will Polk CS re-anodize my 1.2TL faded Crossover Plates?

RichCanDo

Hello all. The black anodization is totally gone from my crossover plates. I remember once reading here, this was caused by improper treatment prior to anodizing. I can get them anodized but would also have to get the printed info silk screened back on. Never done anything like this before and assume I would have to take the plates to silk screener 1st to photo the printing on the plates. (Then have to hope it gets done in the proper color and alignment!)

Anyone know if Polk CS will redo them?
Has anyone reanodized their xover plates?

Just now getting to upgrade my 1.2TL's with parts I purchased over 2 years ago! Made a new Monster Z2 interconnect cable with Neutrik speaker connectors and installed the Neutric jack in speakers. I may even upgrade the xovers finally before parts die on the shelf! (Waiting for Cardas solder to arrive in mail.) Been looking on eBay for new wood to redo the cases for a month but not yet seen any in sufficient quantity wide enough. Would like to use Rosewood to match surrounds and SVS sub but it is not found in wide enough widths, so been looking for Padauk or Bubinga. Been thinking of using solid wood for the sides, eliminating the grill cloth. Also thinking of doing the old wood parts with a polished black laminate, then I can change the look! Putting on a piano black finish is to much trouble.

Thanks for any info,
Rich

michaeljhsda2

RichCanDo wrote: »

Hello all. The black anodization is totally gone from my crossover plates. I remember once reading here, this was caused by improper treatment prior to anodizing. I can get them anodized but would also have to get the printed info silk screened back on. Never done anything like this before and assume I would have to take the plates to silk screener 1st to photo the printing on the plates. (Then have to hope it gets done in the proper color and alignment!)

Anyone know if Polk CS will redo them?
Has anyone reanodized their xover plates?

Just now getting to upgrade my 1.2TL's with parts I purchased over 2 years ago! Made a new Monster Z2 interconnect cable with Neutrik speaker connectors and installed the Neutric jack in speakers. I may even upgrade the xovers finally before parts die on the shelf! (Waiting for Cardas solder to arrive in mail.) Been looking on eBay for new wood to redo the cases for a month but not yet seen any in sufficient quantity wide enough. Would like to use Rosewood to match surrounds and SVS sub but it is not found in wide enough widths, so been looking for Padauk or Bubinga. Been thinking of using solid wood for the sides, eliminating the grill cloth. Also thinking of doing the old wood parts with a polished black laminate, then I can change the look! Putting on a piano black finish is to much trouble.

Thanks for any info,
Rich

Sorry to say but you just missed Larry's (toolforlifefan) one and only brand new crossover plate project.
http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?t=84843&highlight=crossover+plate

F1nut

Polk isn't going to do that for you.

Don't use solid wood for the end caps, veneer is a much better choice.

mmadden28

F1nut wrote: »

..
Don't use solid wood for the end caps, veneer is a much better choice.

Why is that? Aren't the original's Solid?

RichCanDo

I had SDA SRS's when they came out. Had them for years and no problems with the end caps splitting or separating at the seems. The 1.2TL's I have now look good other than a deep ding in the face of a bottom end cap. You can get some really good looking figured veneer alot cheaper than solid wood. Did not want to re-veneer as to much work to remove the old veneer. I'd be afraid of it coming loose as I have already glued it back down on a few edges.

I could use veneer and just make new end caps and side panels out of MDF. Would be easier than trying to remove the old veneer! I also want to make the end caps about 1-1/8" to 1-1/4" thick.

F1nut

No, they are veneered.

Solid wood expands and contracts up to 1/4" with the seasons, which can lead to checking and cracking. Depending on the grain it might also want to cup or curl. You will have end grain showing. It's very hard to book match solid wood.

Veneer over MDF is very stable. No end grain will show. Book matching is easy.

F1nut

Yeah, the original SDA SRS's used solid wood planks, not one solid board. Time has proven that those ends caps do split at the seams.

Bubinga99

If you think about it, the speaker tops and bottoms are sort of like a tabletop for a small end table. Obviously you can use solid wood for that, and people have for centuries, but there are differences btwn a tabletop and the speaker tops. Tabletops are attached with hardware that allows the seasonal movement of the top, independent of the base. And tabletops generally can "breathe" on both their top and bottom faces, which makes them less likely to cup or curl due to uneven changes of the moisture content.

You could do solid tops and bottoms, but as F1nut notes you have end grain showing. Some people don't mind that but I perfer no end grain myself. There's not much way around the fact that a solid wood face that is sandwiched to the melamine top of the speaker is going to take/give moisture at a different rate than the top face though.

If you do decide to go with solid, definitely don't glue it to the speaker top, and elongate the bolt holes in the speaker, in the cross-grain direction. That helps one problem, but not the uneven moisture problem.

A veneer panel has lower risks across the board. If you don't like the look of thin edgebanding, you can frame the veneer panel with solids, but that's a bit more advanced.

kcoc321

I am in the "end grain camp" I like the authenticity. The veneer tops will always look 'fake' to me.

For the end caps, MDF with veneer MAYBE more stable, and easier......
IF/ when I get some, I will do them with real wood and Biscuits, and relief cut the bottoms. But I would also buy the wood and season it for a while, to let it dry out. Also I would finish all 4 sides, there by minimize the moisture transfer.
..that is just me... It comes down to personal preference.

For the sides, I would use veneer,since it so thin, and no end grain shows.

RichCanDo

I like the authenticity also and veneer looks fake to me also. That is why I want to change the wood though it has no meaningful damage now, just a ding. Sort of thing that bugs me just knowing it is there! I also thought about veneer and solid edge banding, but then you have a more noticable joint on the end caps. I like to use solid wood edging on some laminated counter tops (black) as it can be shaped and stained for a nice look. I'm a retired Gen'l Bldg & Electrical Contractor. In 40 years I've built many custom cabinets and other furniture. The entire 1st floor of my house is a shop, I live on the 2nd floor. I do not have a biscuit jointer but I can cut the slots with a router which I use for most everything. (Have 3, and a 3feet square router table.) But I will not need biscuits as trying to find wood wide enough to use one solid piece.

Curling/cracking due to uneven air flow/temp on both sides a good point. A relief cut, such as routing out the underside of end cap would help. Now tryng to think of a spacer to use around edge of endcap that would allow air in that would look good without having spaces (holes) in it. Maybe something black that air can flow through like a filter. My Dad may know of something as he built & installed HVAC systems in commercial bldgs and schools for 30 years.

Bubinga99

I think most true rosewoods (they have dalbergia in the scientific name) are fairly small diameter trees, so you won't find wide planks. But many rosewoods have beautiful grain pattern for bookmatches.

This place has some really choice slabs
http://www.gilmerwood.com/boards_rosewood-exotic_unique.htm
They aren't cheap, but I've had good luck buying through them.

kcoc321

Bubinga99 wrote: »

I think most true rosewoods (they have dalbergia in the scientific name) are fairly small diameter trees, so you won't find wide planks. But many rosewoods have beautiful grain pattern for bookmatches.

This place has some really choice slabs
http://www.gilmerwood.com/boards_rosewood-exotic_unique.htm
They aren't cheap, but I've had good luck buying through them.

That is some nice wood there.

odd, if you are REALLY worried about the moisture differential, what about just extending the plough-out to the back...Allows air flow and would not be noticable.Although personally,I am not going to worry about it...when the time comes,that is.

I think having dried wood and the finish will keep it pretty averaged out. Oh, and since you don't have a biscuit joiner (wonderful tool, BTW, how could you NOT?) you could always put in a 1/4" spline...or mill them T&G, since you have a molding table.

BTW, back to the Cross-over plate discussion, I would think Larry could hook you up with the company that silk screened his...just a thought.

ben62670

I wonder if GM will paint my old car?

thsmith

ben62670 wrote: »

I wonder if GM will paint my old car?

Will have to ask Obama:)

F1nut

Yeah, let's ignore that fact that the Egyptians had no clue when they decided veneer was a better choice some 3 thousand years ago.

Biscuits are for eating, they have no place in furniture.

Looking for wide, exotic lumber? Call Freestate Timbers at 410-561-9444

F1nut

Lasareath wrote: »

My Wood is Wide & Exotic!

So are you, my friend, so are you.

RichCanDo

Lasareath wrote: »

My Wood is Wide & Exotic!

Look below:

I got the idea of Padauk from your write-up on redoing your speakers. Saw photos online of cabinets made of this, they look great. I've read about many types of wood, Padauk and Bubinga are two that can be found in wide boards. Bubinga seems to have a very wide variety of grain patterns so have to find something you like.

If I join boards such as for cabinet doors, I usually do use a spline. (Easy to do on a router table.) I end the cut for the spline before the end of the board so the spline does not show in any shaping done to the edge.