Monitor 7 series 2 Tweeters

woodsman10b

I picked up a pair of Monitor 7 series 2 for $25, great price but ive got a problem with just one tweeter not working. So I pulled it out, and it is the SL-2500. So then l put speaker wire directly to the connectors to make sure it wasnt the crossover, and no sound at all. So what im wondering is what is the replacement for this tweeter?

If I were to look into goin with the RDO-198's would I have to upgrade the crossover? Any input will be greatly appreciated.

Thanx in advance

tom

ben62670

RDO-198's are a direct replacement for the 2500, and 3000 tweeters. I would take the "bad" tweeter and put it in the cabinet where the good tweeter is to test.
Let us know if that helps.
Ben

NJPOLKER

Hey Tom,
How are things in the great state of Wisconsin? The Packers really F'ed me up last week big time. WTF is with that!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Buy a pair of RDO's from Polk for about a hundred and be done with it. They sound great of course and should be drop in replacement. While you have the crossover out you should double check the values of the caps and resistors then order new ones from Madisound. At least do the smaller value caps and resistors. I'd go with the Clarity Caps. As to which CC? Which ever ones fit with what you'd like to spend.
http://www.madisound.com/index.php

woodsman10b

Ben, the tweeter is definately not working, I did the switch and had the same result. I took it apart and their seems to be no visible problem with it either, coil wire seems to be intact on both sides from the leads, magnet seems to be inplace and the cone moves freely. Since it is not working now I figure im goin to do some more testing on it, whats to lose right?

Drew, how have you been? Yeah the Pack looked like crap last week, got killed in the trenches on both sides of the ball! If the offense of line doesnt step it up alot Rodgers wont see the end of the season! Just got done watching the Badgers and they looked really good, they seem to finally have a good throwing QB at the helm with Tolzein.

I think upgrades in the crossovers are goin to have to happen! After further review and inspection of these 7's I found that the speaker with the bad tweeter had a burnt out resistor(i think its a resistor, little square white one in the middle?). I will post some pics tomorrow, and you guys can maybe let me know for sure.

woodsman10b

I dont really know much about caps and resistors and their values, so any help will be very useful.

Here are the pics of the crossover from the speaker with the bad tweeter and also a pic of the other speaker, they do need a good cleaning but in overall decent condition. My garage bench is very messy too

Is it normal for the white rectangle one to be burnt like this, my guess is no lol

ben62670

The resistor is burnt. It needs to be replaced.

woodsman10b

So I decided to check the other crossover and the resistor is also burnt but the speaker seems to sound just fine.

Any ideas of how to remove the old glue without damaging the crossover or any of the existing parts?

Face

I would replace all caps and resistors on the boards.

NJPOLKER

Hi Bob

$28.00 + the two resistors maybe $30.00 delivered to you. Don't be a cheese head and do it. If you want to spend a little more you should try out the 1% Dayton's. Maybe use the 1% Dayton's for the 8uF and the less expensive Dayton's for the larger values (27uF and 12uF) and you should be all set. The resistors are 2.7ohm which are relatively inexpensive so its your pick. I don't see any resistors at PE so maybe give Madisound a call and order these http://www.madisound.com/catalog/product_info.php?manufacturers_id=142&products_id=8414 Just trying to help you out here.

http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-metallized-capacitors.cfm

http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-loudspeaker-precision-1.cfm

kcoc321

here is the link for the 2.5ohm Mills resistors at Parts Express.
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?Partnumber=005-2.5

or the Dayton 2.7ohm:
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?Partnumber=004-2.7

You can read here that the Mills are better.
IDK, for sure if the 2.5 is okay, since it is within the +/- 10% of the originals.
I do not know what difference it makes.

Since you have the Series 2:
For Caps, you need [(1)12uF, (1)8uF -HP] [(1)27uF -LP] per speaker.
from wiring diagram http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=18774&d=1155784729

For the end caps, MDF with veneer are more stable, and easier......
although if/ when I get some, I would do them with real wood and Biscuits, and relief cut the bottoms. But that is just me.

kcoc321

LOL...disregard last paragraph....not enuff coffee yet....too many tabs open.

woodsman10b

Thanx for the links and the advise guys. I will figure out how much I really want to spend and go from there...

Still need some advise on the hot glue removal, an exacto blade is what im figuring.

thanx again

tom

NJPOLKER

My experience is that it should remove by gently pressuring the hot melt with a dull knife. It should peel way, if not go to the razor knife.