New Not-Quite-DIY Ninja Master mod for LSi9s and LSiC

praedet
praedet Posts: 314
edited October 2009 in Speakers
All right folks, I know I don't have too many posts here, but I still wanted to let you in on some info that almost no one here knows about...

Because I was lucky enough to live in Colorado so I could respond to Mark's (markmarc) post about an LSi9 owner in Colorado, I was able to send in my unmodded LSI9s, and an LSiC, to the Skiing Ninja. I have no affiliation with Skiing Ninja, and just got lucky enough to send my speakers to Sean, the owner, for the test fit of a network upgrade. (And I get mine upgraded :))

I think I am about 1-2 weeks from receiving them back, so I thought I would go ahead and post up the initial picture I have of the new LSi9 cross-over that will be going back in soon. Keep in mind the bypass caps (SoniCap Platinums) have not been attached yet, and obviously the wiring has not been done. But they are still pretty to look at ;)

I am going to try to get Sean to post on here (I don't know what the rules are on that since he does have a company) because he took a LOT of measurements of the LSi9s and LSiC as part of figuring out what he wanted to do. I am hoping he will post them :)

When I get them back, I will have the LSi7s that I upgraded a few weeks ago to compare them to.

Ted
HT: Ninja Master LSi9s, Ninja Master LSiC, Slightly Modded LSiFXs, Modded LSi7s, Outlaw LFM-1 EX and Polk PSW125
Outlaw 970 Preamp, Outlaw 7700 Amp, Velodyne SMS-1, Oppo BDP-83,
2 APC H-15s and a Panamax 5400 for good measure ;)
Stereo: DIY Alix Music Server, DODD Audio Battery Tube Buffer, Modded DAC-60 and MF V-Link (for now), DIY Silver ICs, Battery Powered Class D SDS-254 Amp, and GR-Research N2X Speakers
Post edited by praedet on
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Comments

  • Face
    Face Posts: 14,340
    edited September 2009
    Expect a night and day difference.
    "He who fights with monsters should look to it that he himself does not become a monster. And when you gaze long into an abyss the abyss also gazes into you." Friedrich Nietzsche
  • dkg999
    dkg999 Posts: 5,647
    edited September 2009
    I'll be in line for the LSi9/LSiC x-overs! As much as I would like to do them myself, time is the enemy! That's unfortunate since we have some good DIY talent here in the area!
    DKG999
    HT System: LSi9, LSiCx2, LSiFX, LSi7, SVS 20-39 PC+, B&K 507.s2 AVR, B&K Ref 125.2, Tripplite LCR-2400, Cambridge 650BD, Signal Cable PC/SC, BJC IC, Samsung 55" LED

    Music System: Magnepan 1.6QR, SVS SB12+, ARC pre, Parasound HCA1500 vertically bi-amped, Jolida CDP, Pro-Ject RM5.1SE TT, Pro-Ject TubeBox SE phono pre, SBT, PS Audio DLIII DAC
  • The Ninja
    The Ninja Posts: 25
    edited September 2009
    Hi all. Ted asked me to comment here however I don't want to come off as trying to market anything in your house so I will keep my comments limited to answering specific questions.

    Ted mentioned measurements - the measurements taken do show the speakers in a positive light and we have performed no circuit adjustments. May I post them to this thread along with some observations as well as what we are doing for Ted?

    Thank you,

    Sean
    Sean Ries
    Owner, Skiing Ninja Systems
  • dkg999
    dkg999 Posts: 5,647
    edited September 2009
    Or maybe a link to the Skiing Ninja site with the info posted there, which I have to say I really enjoy reading the information and forums on.
    DKG999
    HT System: LSi9, LSiCx2, LSiFX, LSi7, SVS 20-39 PC+, B&K 507.s2 AVR, B&K Ref 125.2, Tripplite LCR-2400, Cambridge 650BD, Signal Cable PC/SC, BJC IC, Samsung 55" LED

    Music System: Magnepan 1.6QR, SVS SB12+, ARC pre, Parasound HCA1500 vertically bi-amped, Jolida CDP, Pro-Ject RM5.1SE TT, Pro-Ject TubeBox SE phono pre, SBT, PS Audio DLIII DAC
  • The Ninja
    The Ninja Posts: 25
    edited September 2009
    At many forums, If I link to my site, it is against the rules so I'd rather not do that unless it is specifically permitted.

    There isn't anything specific to the Polks up there yet anyway as we are still working on the upgrades. Certainly all the info and measurements will be listed.

    I'm sure Ted can point you in the right direction once all is online.

    Thank you,

    Sean
    dkg999 wrote: »
    Or maybe a link to the Skiing Ninja site with the info posted there, which I have to say I really enjoy reading the information and forums on.
    Sean Ries
    Owner, Skiing Ninja Systems
  • praedet
    praedet Posts: 314
    edited September 2009
    Glad to see you here Sean!

    I am pretty sure you can post the measurements and observations without any problems!
    HT: Ninja Master LSi9s, Ninja Master LSiC, Slightly Modded LSiFXs, Modded LSi7s, Outlaw LFM-1 EX and Polk PSW125
    Outlaw 970 Preamp, Outlaw 7700 Amp, Velodyne SMS-1, Oppo BDP-83,
    2 APC H-15s and a Panamax 5400 for good measure ;)
    Stereo: DIY Alix Music Server, DODD Audio Battery Tube Buffer, Modded DAC-60 and MF V-Link (for now), DIY Silver ICs, Battery Powered Class D SDS-254 Amp, and GR-Research N2X Speakers
  • The Ninja
    The Ninja Posts: 25
    edited September 2009
    OK, I'll get things together and post some info once I've gotten a little further with the upgrade process. I expect to be listening to some sublime tunes by Monday.

    Thanks for the warm welcome.

    Sean
    Sean Ries
    Owner, Skiing Ninja Systems
  • praedet
    praedet Posts: 314
    edited October 2009
    The LSi9s are on their way to me ;) Here is the LSiC network before wiring. Due to the size of all the componenets, it had to be broken into 3 boards, one for each speaker ;)
    HT: Ninja Master LSi9s, Ninja Master LSiC, Slightly Modded LSiFXs, Modded LSi7s, Outlaw LFM-1 EX and Polk PSW125
    Outlaw 970 Preamp, Outlaw 7700 Amp, Velodyne SMS-1, Oppo BDP-83,
    2 APC H-15s and a Panamax 5400 for good measure ;)
    Stereo: DIY Alix Music Server, DODD Audio Battery Tube Buffer, Modded DAC-60 and MF V-Link (for now), DIY Silver ICs, Battery Powered Class D SDS-254 Amp, and GR-Research N2X Speakers
  • TouchOfEvil
    TouchOfEvil Posts: 967
    edited October 2009
    nice looking crossovers.
    Living Room Rig:D
    Rotel RSP-1069/Rotel RMB-1095/Rotel-1072/Polk lsI15's W/modded xoverW/DBsubs/Polk LsiC/lsI7's/Klipsch sub-12"the weak link"/DLP Mitsubishi 65"
    Xbox360/PS3/WII
    M.Br. setup:)
    Emotiva MMC-1/Rotel RMB-1075/Polk BlackStone TL350's/Velodyne SPL1000/Samsung 51" Plasma
    Computer Rig:
    Rotel RB1050/Tannoy DC4's/Klipsch RW-10d/ImodIpod/HK AVR230 for now....
    Headphones-Ultrasone-HFI780's w/LittleDot MK Vamp Portables Panasonic HJE-900's
  • Face
    Face Posts: 14,340
    edited October 2009
    I also had to break the LSiC crossover up into 3 pieces, there's not much room to work inside. The owner who's LSi15's, 9's, and C I upgraded, he said the upgraded LSiC was the most substantial of the bunch.
    "He who fights with monsters should look to it that he himself does not become a monster. And when you gaze long into an abyss the abyss also gazes into you." Friedrich Nietzsche
  • LessisNevermore
    LessisNevermore Posts: 1,519
    edited October 2009
    Welcome Sean!

    What kind of time frame, until these are available? Cost?
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 51,142
    edited October 2009
    Keep in mind the bypass caps (SoniCap Platinums) have not been attached yet

    You don't need bypass caps anymore when you upgrade from the stock stuff to high quality caps.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • markmarc
    markmarc Posts: 2,309
    edited October 2009
    I cannot encourage all LSi owners enough to seriously consider upgrading the crossovers. IMHO, the LSi's were incredibly shortchanged by being stuck with the stock crossover. The improvement is stunning whatever crossover upgrade design one uses.

    As for Skiing Ninja, Sean is the real deal, one of the most decent guys I've have the pleasure to work with in audio.

    Yes, I could kick myself for selling my LSi9 just weeks before getting an email from Sean.
    Review Site_ (((AudioPursuit)))
    Founder/Publisher Affordable$$Audio 2006-13.
    Former Staff Member TONEAudio
    2 Ch. System
    Amplifiers: Parasound Halo P6 pre, Vista Audio i34, Peachtree amp500, Adcom GFP-565 GFA-535ii, 545ii, 555ii
    Digital: SimAudio HAD230 DAC, iMac 20in/Amarra,
    Speakers: Paradigm Performa F75, Magnepan .7, Totem Model 1's, ACI Emerald XL, Celestion Si Stands. Totem Dreamcatcher sub
    Analog: Technics SL-J2 w/Pickering 3000D, SimAudio LP5.3 phono pre
    Cable/Wires: Cardas, AudioArt, Shunyata Venom 3
  • dkg999
    dkg999 Posts: 5,647
    edited October 2009
    So when can I order these?
    DKG999
    HT System: LSi9, LSiCx2, LSiFX, LSi7, SVS 20-39 PC+, B&K 507.s2 AVR, B&K Ref 125.2, Tripplite LCR-2400, Cambridge 650BD, Signal Cable PC/SC, BJC IC, Samsung 55" LED

    Music System: Magnepan 1.6QR, SVS SB12+, ARC pre, Parasound HCA1500 vertically bi-amped, Jolida CDP, Pro-Ject RM5.1SE TT, Pro-Ject TubeBox SE phono pre, SBT, PS Audio DLIII DAC
  • TouchOfEvil
    TouchOfEvil Posts: 967
    edited October 2009
    i will be in the market for a upgraded lsic crossover since my 15's are already done up.
    Living Room Rig:D
    Rotel RSP-1069/Rotel RMB-1095/Rotel-1072/Polk lsI15's W/modded xoverW/DBsubs/Polk LsiC/lsI7's/Klipsch sub-12"the weak link"/DLP Mitsubishi 65"
    Xbox360/PS3/WII
    M.Br. setup:)
    Emotiva MMC-1/Rotel RMB-1075/Polk BlackStone TL350's/Velodyne SPL1000/Samsung 51" Plasma
    Computer Rig:
    Rotel RB1050/Tannoy DC4's/Klipsch RW-10d/ImodIpod/HK AVR230 for now....
    Headphones-Ultrasone-HFI780's w/LittleDot MK Vamp Portables Panasonic HJE-900's
  • praedet
    praedet Posts: 314
    edited October 2009
    F1nut wrote: »
    You don't need bypass caps anymore when you upgrade from the stock stuff to high quality caps.
    I am not discounting your opinion, I am just wondering why you feel this way and yet there are very well-regarded cross-over designers that disagree with you?

    I tried out some bypass caps on my own with the LSi7s. I am going to talk about them in the other thread ;)
    HT: Ninja Master LSi9s, Ninja Master LSiC, Slightly Modded LSiFXs, Modded LSi7s, Outlaw LFM-1 EX and Polk PSW125
    Outlaw 970 Preamp, Outlaw 7700 Amp, Velodyne SMS-1, Oppo BDP-83,
    2 APC H-15s and a Panamax 5400 for good measure ;)
    Stereo: DIY Alix Music Server, DODD Audio Battery Tube Buffer, Modded DAC-60 and MF V-Link (for now), DIY Silver ICs, Battery Powered Class D SDS-254 Amp, and GR-Research N2X Speakers
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 51,142
    edited October 2009
    Because it's been my experience that bypass caps, when used with poly/film & foil types, create artifacts. This, at first, sounds kinda neat because it's different, but quicky becomes annoying as hell.

    After I came to my conclusion I found this article, which may interest you.
    Bypass capacitors. In addition to the Multicap RTX, I have tried either .1 µF or .01 µF bypasses from Sonicap (Gen I and the Teflon® Platinum cap), Hovland, AudioCap, and Wima. In every case the results were similar. Let me digress for a minute or so (depending on how fast you read) and talk about crossovers.

    In the simple first order high-pass crossovers we are using for this capacitor comparison, the value of the single capacitor, together with the impedance of the loudspeaker driver, determines the crossover frequency. An 8 µF capacitor with the 4 ohm impedance of the Magnepan quasi-ribbon tweeter gives a crossover frequency of about 5000 Hz (1/2πRC). A smaller value capacitor (for example, 4 µF instead of 8 µF) will raise the crossover frequency. If we used only the very small value .1 µF capacitor without the 8 µF, we would hear nothing because the crossover frequency is now almost 400,000 Hz. Even a dog would not hear it!

    So why use a bypass at all? There are actually components of very high frequencies in some audio waveforms. Some are high order harmonics. If you think of a square wave, the right angles at the top of the wave are extremely high in frequency. Sometimes there are high frequency components in very fast audio sounds, for example, the instantaneous tap of a drum stick on a cymbal. These are the sounds that should be "helped" by including a small-value bypass capacitor in a high pass crossover.

    Well, I don't think so. If the 8 µF capacitor blocks frequencies below 5000 Hz and passes frequencies above 5000 Hz, why do we need what is actually another crossover for the same tweeter, but operating at frequencies already passed by the big cap? I am sure engineers have a very good reason, and a couple of them have tried to educate me on this subject. I respect the science and electrical theory on this subject, and my technical background helps me to understand it fairly well. But there is one small problem: the bypasses all sound bad! They add a quality that at first sounds like an increase in air and detail, but after a couple of hours becomes an intrusive harshness and discontinuity in the upper treble. Remove the bypass: all of the detail is present but without that grating and annoying sound. The high frequencies are cleaner, smoother, and much more enjoyable. It doesn't matter if the bypass cap is Teflon®, polystyrene, or common polypropylene, the results are very similar. And to be avoided.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • praedet
    praedet Posts: 314
    edited October 2009
    ^^^Interesting...

    Honestly, so far, I am not noticing ANYTHING that is the slightest bit more fatiguing. More clarity, but there is NO harshness at all. I have been listening to the speakers since I did the caps abou3 hours ago. Most of the time at VERY high volume. We’ll see as they get more broken in…

    And my understanding is that the bypass cap is there to allow the larger value cap to discharge fully MUCH more quickly than it can without the bypass cap, since we do not want to use the "storage" side of caps in a speaker...
    HT: Ninja Master LSi9s, Ninja Master LSiC, Slightly Modded LSiFXs, Modded LSi7s, Outlaw LFM-1 EX and Polk PSW125
    Outlaw 970 Preamp, Outlaw 7700 Amp, Velodyne SMS-1, Oppo BDP-83,
    2 APC H-15s and a Panamax 5400 for good measure ;)
    Stereo: DIY Alix Music Server, DODD Audio Battery Tube Buffer, Modded DAC-60 and MF V-Link (for now), DIY Silver ICs, Battery Powered Class D SDS-254 Amp, and GR-Research N2X Speakers
  • praedet
    praedet Posts: 314
    edited October 2009
    Here is what Sean says about them on his site. I have seen some posts by Danny Richie mirroring this reasoning for bypass caps...
    Think of a capacitor as an energy storage device. Capacitors will store and release energy and are often used for that very reason. In the loudspeaker application though we are wanting to use them for the capacitive effects and not their energy storage capabilities.

    The larger the cap the more energy it can store. Also larger caps take longer to charge and to discharge this stored energy. Different types of caps store and release energy at different rates too. For instance electrolytic caps are more known as being fairly slow to charge and discharge compared to other types of caps. However they are much less expensive and are often used in loudspeakers especially if large values are needed. Polypropylene caps like those used in many speakers are a faster cap. Not all poly caps are the same though. The really good ones are considerably more expensive than the more commonly used types.

    When an audio signal is sent through a cap there is a small amount of lag time from charge to discharge. Often with larger caps, even after they are discharged there is still a small charge that is left as it did not completely discharge. The smaller values typically used in speakers like AV123's x-ls are not too bad. But there is still always some signature to the caps in the signal path. The audible effect is a smearing of the music. Notes will have a little trailing edge to them that blend into the next note. Again the larger the cap value the greater this effect.

    By-passing the caps on the board with a fast discharging cap like 0.1uF (really small value) Sonicap Gen II will effectively short the larger cap out. The capacitance is hardly changed but shorting the larger cap with the small one will discharge it very quickly
    HT: Ninja Master LSi9s, Ninja Master LSiC, Slightly Modded LSiFXs, Modded LSi7s, Outlaw LFM-1 EX and Polk PSW125
    Outlaw 970 Preamp, Outlaw 7700 Amp, Velodyne SMS-1, Oppo BDP-83,
    2 APC H-15s and a Panamax 5400 for good measure ;)
    Stereo: DIY Alix Music Server, DODD Audio Battery Tube Buffer, Modded DAC-60 and MF V-Link (for now), DIY Silver ICs, Battery Powered Class D SDS-254 Amp, and GR-Research N2X Speakers
  • Face
    Face Posts: 14,340
    edited October 2009
    I can see bypassing working out well for LSi's that see mostly HT duty. As for music, YMMV.
    "He who fights with monsters should look to it that he himself does not become a monster. And when you gaze long into an abyss the abyss also gazes into you." Friedrich Nietzsche
  • praedet
    praedet Posts: 314
    edited October 2009
    ^^^Why should it make a difference? If they improve one, shouldn't they improve the other?

    I am actually confused. THere are some VERY well regarded cross-over designers that put them in ALL of their networks. And these networks use Sonicaps and mills like these upgrades on the LSis. Moreover these are for speakers that are used mostly in 2-channel.

    I am not trying to start a fight here, I have read the posts on SDAs and removal of the bypass-caps, I am just wondering if that was a function of the actual bypass cap used, and where it was in the circuit, as opposed to actually being an overall problem with bypass caps...

    Please educate me if the description I posted above on what they are supposed to do, and how they work, is wrong :D
    HT: Ninja Master LSi9s, Ninja Master LSiC, Slightly Modded LSiFXs, Modded LSi7s, Outlaw LFM-1 EX and Polk PSW125
    Outlaw 970 Preamp, Outlaw 7700 Amp, Velodyne SMS-1, Oppo BDP-83,
    2 APC H-15s and a Panamax 5400 for good measure ;)
    Stereo: DIY Alix Music Server, DODD Audio Battery Tube Buffer, Modded DAC-60 and MF V-Link (for now), DIY Silver ICs, Battery Powered Class D SDS-254 Amp, and GR-Research N2X Speakers
  • praedet
    praedet Posts: 314
    edited October 2009
    deleted for double post
    HT: Ninja Master LSi9s, Ninja Master LSiC, Slightly Modded LSiFXs, Modded LSi7s, Outlaw LFM-1 EX and Polk PSW125
    Outlaw 970 Preamp, Outlaw 7700 Amp, Velodyne SMS-1, Oppo BDP-83,
    2 APC H-15s and a Panamax 5400 for good measure ;)
    Stereo: DIY Alix Music Server, DODD Audio Battery Tube Buffer, Modded DAC-60 and MF V-Link (for now), DIY Silver ICs, Battery Powered Class D SDS-254 Amp, and GR-Research N2X Speakers
  • dorokusai
    dorokusai Posts: 25,576
    edited October 2009
    Just because a few of the "designers" you know agree on one thing doesn't make it the rule for the rest of the world. I haven't been in a room yet that everyone agreed on the same design, every time. Perhaps they should start their own company.
    CTC BBQ Amplifier, Sonic Frontiers Line3 Pre-Amplifier and Wadia 581 SACD player. Speakers? Always changing but for now, Mission Argonauts I picked up for $50 bucks, mint.
  • praedet
    praedet Posts: 314
    edited October 2009
    They have ;)
    HT: Ninja Master LSi9s, Ninja Master LSiC, Slightly Modded LSiFXs, Modded LSi7s, Outlaw LFM-1 EX and Polk PSW125
    Outlaw 970 Preamp, Outlaw 7700 Amp, Velodyne SMS-1, Oppo BDP-83,
    2 APC H-15s and a Panamax 5400 for good measure ;)
    Stereo: DIY Alix Music Server, DODD Audio Battery Tube Buffer, Modded DAC-60 and MF V-Link (for now), DIY Silver ICs, Battery Powered Class D SDS-254 Amp, and GR-Research N2X Speakers
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 51,142
    edited October 2009
    For instance electrolytic caps are more known as being fairly slow to charge and discharge compared to other types of caps.

    That's correct and in the case of electrolytic caps, bypassing makes sense and it works. This, however, is not the case when using an already fast cap.
    I have been listening to the speakers since I did the caps abou3 hours ago. Most of the time at VERY high volume.

    It's far too early for you to judge the sound and especially not at VERY high volume levels. Wait until you've got at least 200 hours on them and listen at normal levels. After that, remove the bypass cap(s) and listen again. You may still prefer the bypass caps, but then again, you may find what a lot of us have, that it sounds better without them.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • praedet
    praedet Posts: 314
    edited October 2009
    ^^^Cool! Will do ;)
    HT: Ninja Master LSi9s, Ninja Master LSiC, Slightly Modded LSiFXs, Modded LSi7s, Outlaw LFM-1 EX and Polk PSW125
    Outlaw 970 Preamp, Outlaw 7700 Amp, Velodyne SMS-1, Oppo BDP-83,
    2 APC H-15s and a Panamax 5400 for good measure ;)
    Stereo: DIY Alix Music Server, DODD Audio Battery Tube Buffer, Modded DAC-60 and MF V-Link (for now), DIY Silver ICs, Battery Powered Class D SDS-254 Amp, and GR-Research N2X Speakers
  • McLoki
    McLoki Posts: 5,231
    edited October 2009
    So, how do you mount the multiple boards in your LSiC or 9's? Do they have wires connecting them to the terminal cups and speakers? Will you have to solder them together after you get them? (reason I ask is that their will not be enough room behind the left or right speaker for all the boards and the cabinet is divided in half by ports. (i.e. - you cannot put everything behind the left woofer and "slide it" behind the right woofer to make room)

    Just wanted you to be aware of it. I look forward to your impressions.

    Michael
    Mains.............Polk LSi15 (Cherry)
    Center............Polk LSiC (Crossover upgraded)
    Surrounds.......Polk LSi7 (Gloss Black - wood sides removed and crossovers upgraded)
    Subwoofers.....SVS 25-31 CS+ and PC+ (both 20hz tune)
    Pre\Pro...........NAD T163 (Modded with LM4562 opamps)
    Amplifier.........Cinepro 3k6 (6-channel, 500wpc@4ohms)
  • Face
    Face Posts: 14,340
    edited October 2009
    praedet wrote: »
    I am actually confused. THere are some VERY well regarded cross-over designers that put them in ALL of their networks. And these networks use Sonicaps and mills like these upgrades on the LSis. Moreover these are for speakers that are used mostly in 2-channel.
    As F1 mentioned, sometimes it is done to improve the SQ of an electrolytic cap. It is also done to improve the SQ of cheap films. I've tried bypassing with a few different caps, some on the expensive side. The biggest positive I heard was being able to tune the sound to your liking by mixing the attributes of the two caps. But, I also noticed imaging was slightly smeared in comparison to using a single cap. So for the HF circuit(tweeter), I like to use a single cap when possible. For the midrange and woofer circuits, it's not a concern though IMO.
    "He who fights with monsters should look to it that he himself does not become a monster. And when you gaze long into an abyss the abyss also gazes into you." Friedrich Nietzsche
  • McLoki
    McLoki Posts: 5,231
    edited October 2009
    praedet wrote: »
    And my understanding is that the bypass cap is there to allow the larger value cap to discharge fully MUCH more quickly than it can without the bypass cap, since we do not want to use the "storage" side of caps in a speaker...

    Based on that - would the best solution be to use a small value bypass cap of the same line as your other caps? i.e. - say you have a 16uf sonicap gen-1 cap you want to bypass - just add a .01uf or .1uf sonicap gen 1 in parallel and you are done. You should not get the sonic issues of 2 different caps but should still get the benefit of the faster discharge.

    Would that work? If so, I will try to incorporate it into my LSi15 crossover upgrade. (and maybe order a few extras for my LSiC and LSi7's)

    As another question - do you typically bypass all caps that are fully in the signal path, or just caps in the tweeter circut?

    Thanks,

    Michael
    Mains.............Polk LSi15 (Cherry)
    Center............Polk LSiC (Crossover upgraded)
    Surrounds.......Polk LSi7 (Gloss Black - wood sides removed and crossovers upgraded)
    Subwoofers.....SVS 25-31 CS+ and PC+ (both 20hz tune)
    Pre\Pro...........NAD T163 (Modded with LM4562 opamps)
    Amplifier.........Cinepro 3k6 (6-channel, 500wpc@4ohms)
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 51,142
    edited October 2009
    You should not get the sonic issues of 2 different caps but should still get the benefit of the faster discharge.

    "It doesn't matter if the bypass cap is Teflon®, polystyrene, or common polypropylene, the results are very similar. And to be avoided."
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk