Newb question RE: Dual Binding Posts
Oblivion
Posts: 5
Hi everyone! My first post! I've been lurking here for a while while doing some research and I finally picked up a pair of RTi A7 from Polk Direct.
My question is, Does it matter which post I connect my speaker wire to on these towers? Top or Bottom? I know they are bridged(?) already, but I just wanted to make sure I didn't mess them up, or alter the sound in some way.
I currently have them hooked up to the bottom posts, and they sound fine, although my current AVR is ancient, and slightly underpowered for these babys. I'm waiting on my Onkyo 876 sometime in the next month to rectify this problem.
Thanks in advance for any help!
My question is, Does it matter which post I connect my speaker wire to on these towers? Top or Bottom? I know they are bridged(?) already, but I just wanted to make sure I didn't mess them up, or alter the sound in some way.
I currently have them hooked up to the bottom posts, and they sound fine, although my current AVR is ancient, and slightly underpowered for these babys. I'm waiting on my Onkyo 876 sometime in the next month to rectify this problem.
Thanks in advance for any help!
Post edited by Oblivion on
Comments
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Welcome to Polk Forums.
The bottom post are feeding the woofers so yes this is the best post to power up the speaker. I assume that you're using the bridge jumps between the bottom and the top post.
BTW if you have pre amp outputs for the AVR you have now, it maybe best to add an amp to power up the front speakers. Not that the avr Onkyo 876, not that is a bad avr... But if you need more power adding an amp maybe the best update.
Speakers
Carver Amazing Fronts
CS400i Center
RT800i's Rears
Sub Paradigm Servo 15
Electronics
Conrad Johnson PV-5 pre-amp
Parasound Halo A23
Pioneer 84TXSi AVR
Pioneer 79Avi DVD
Sony CX400 CD changer
Panasonic 42-PX60U Plasma
WMC Win7 32bit HD DVR -
Welcome to the Club!Linn AV5140 fronts
Linn AV5120 Center
Linn AV5140 Rears
M&K MX-70 Sub for Music
Odyssey Mono-Blocs
SVS Ultra-13 Gloss Black:D -
Just make sure that the binding strap is in place, that everything is in phase and that positive is hooked to positive and negative is to negative. If all is tight? you are good to go.
At that point, the location of the speaker wire does not matter. Welcome to the forum.~ In search of accurate reproduction of music. Real sound is my reference and while perfection may not be attainable? If I chase it, I might just catch excellence. ~ -
Looks like I am late to the party but +1 on what has been said so far. As long as the jumpers are installed it doesn't matter which set you have the wires hooked up to. Also as stated if your current AVR has pre-outs you may be best suited getting an external amp instead of the 876. Unless you are looking for a more modern AVR that does the HD sound decoding, then by all means grab the 876 it is a beast. Also, the new 807 is nothing to sneeze at either, and carries a similar price tag of around $1,000. I have an 806 and have enjoyed it for almost a year now. Welcome to Club Polk.
-JeffHT Rig
Receiver- Onkyo TX-SR806
Mains- Polk Audio Monitor 70
Center- Polk Audio CS2
Surrounds- Polk Audio TSi 500's
Sub- Polk Audio PSW125
Retired- Polk Audio Monitor 40's
T.V.- 60" Sony SXRD KDS-60A2000 LCoS
Blu-Ray- 80 GB PS3
2 CH rig (in progress)
Polk Audio Monitor 10A's :cool:
It's not that I'm insensitive, I just don't care.. -
Thanks for clearing that up for me everyone!
I do plan on eventually adding a power amp to run my RTi A7s in the front, but for now I'm building it out into a 5.0 system by adding an CSi A4 in the center, and probably a pair of Fxi A4s in the back. Like I said, my current AVR is inadequate for this job, so I will be getting the Onkyo 876 in the near term, then adding a subwoofer and power amp to the mix later.
Anyone have any suggestions on a good power amp to run the RTi A7s? -
Anything with a tube . Got a budget in mind?~ In search of accurate reproduction of music. Real sound is my reference and while perfection may not be attainable? If I chase it, I might just catch excellence. ~
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Not much more than a few hundred, If that can get me at least 200wpc of good clean power for my RTi A7s. I might be willing to spend a little more.
I admit, I haven't done much research on 2 channel power amps recently, so I'm kinda clueless about performance/price comparisons. Any ideas would be much appreciated! -
Not much more than a few hundred, If that can get me at least 200wpc of good clean power for my RTi A7s. I might be willing to spend a little more.
I admit, I haven't done much research on 2 channel power amps recently, so I'm kinda clueless about performance/price comparisons. Any ideas would be much appreciated!
You will have to hit the used market of course, with that budget in mind. That not being a bad thing at all, great deals can be had. Rotel, Sunfire, Adcom, Nad, Parasound, to name a few. For now, i would try to get my hands on that Onkyo 876 as soon as possible, and save some cash for an amp later. Your current AVR, you describe as "Ancient" could do some serious damage to your speakers, not offering up enough power.
Pat.Receiver: Pioneer Elite SC-05
Amp: Emotiva Xpa-3
Front L/R: POLK Rti-a9s':D
Center:POLK Csi-a6
Rear surround's:POLK Rti-a1s'
Sub: Klipsch Synergy sub-12
Sony Kdl-46w4100 46" LCD
PS3
Audioquest type 4 wiring. -
I'm going to be the dissenter and say that when I moved the cables to the top posts, I got a bit more clarity and high-end extension. Not a huge difference, but noticeable. The cheap gold-plated brass those jumpers are made from smear the signal a bit. I ended up replacing them with short sections of speaker wire until I started bi-amping.
I like my Mackies, but am in the process of modding them because I find the fans annoying when listening at very low levels. I think I can make them pretty quite for another 20 bucks or so, and a little time/effort. Anyway, you might think about those for your power amp. You can pick up Mackies in good shape off flea-bay for around 2-250 shipped. An FR800 is probably about what you need.Turntable: Empire 208
Arm: Rega 300
Cart: Shelter 501 III
Phono Pre: dsachs consulting
Digital: Marantz SACD 30n
Pre: Conrad Johnson ET3 SE
Amp: Conrad Johnson Premier 350
Cables: Cardas Neutral Reference
Speakers: SDA 2.3TL, heavily modified -
i have mine set-up so that the wire goes to the bottom half first and then i ran a small section of wire connecting to the top post's, should i remove the brass jumper's?Media Room 7.1
Sharp lc37d64u | Sanus vmsab-03 | Sonax ZX8680 | Yamaha htr-6290b | Emotiva xpa1 x 2 & xpa5 | RTiA 9 & 7 | CSiA 6 | FXiA 6 | Sanus NF30B-03 | Velodyne dls-3750r | Dual 505-3 m97xe | Monster avs2000/hts5100
HTPC
Intel e5300 | Asus p5q DLX | LG ch08 BD | OCZ 4g reaper2 | WD 1TB | Sapphire 4890 VaporX 1g | Asus Xonar HDAV 1.3 | OCZ modXtreme 700w | Antec Fusion remote MAX
A fool and his money are easily parted
I don't drink Koolaid
Need some cable's? Just ask -
sTiLlLeArNiNg wrote: »i have mine set-up so that the wire goes to the bottom half first and then i ran a small section of wire connecting to the top post's, should i remove the brass jumper's?
If you added a wire between the top 2 post to the bottom 2 post red to red, black to black you don't need the brass jumpers these should be removed now.
Speakers
Carver Amazing Fronts
CS400i Center
RT800i's Rears
Sub Paradigm Servo 15
Electronics
Conrad Johnson PV-5 pre-amp
Parasound Halo A23
Pioneer 84TXSi AVR
Pioneer 79Avi DVD
Sony CX400 CD changer
Panasonic 42-PX60U Plasma
WMC Win7 32bit HD DVR -
disneyjoe7 wrote: »If you added a wire between the top 2 post to the bottom 2 post red to red, black to black you don't need the brass jumpers these should be removed now.
will do! thank's
Would it alter the sound in any way? i'm assuming yes since there would be less resistanceMedia Room 7.1
Sharp lc37d64u | Sanus vmsab-03 | Sonax ZX8680 | Yamaha htr-6290b | Emotiva xpa1 x 2 & xpa5 | RTiA 9 & 7 | CSiA 6 | FXiA 6 | Sanus NF30B-03 | Velodyne dls-3750r | Dual 505-3 m97xe | Monster avs2000/hts5100
HTPC
Intel e5300 | Asus p5q DLX | LG ch08 BD | OCZ 4g reaper2 | WD 1TB | Sapphire 4890 VaporX 1g | Asus Xonar HDAV 1.3 | OCZ modXtreme 700w | Antec Fusion remote MAX
A fool and his money are easily parted
I don't drink Koolaid
Need some cable's? Just ask -
I think you can hear the difference for sure.
Speakers
Carver Amazing Fronts
CS400i Center
RT800i's Rears
Sub Paradigm Servo 15
Electronics
Conrad Johnson PV-5 pre-amp
Parasound Halo A23
Pioneer 84TXSi AVR
Pioneer 79Avi DVD
Sony CX400 CD changer
Panasonic 42-PX60U Plasma
WMC Win7 32bit HD DVR -
I like Adcom's or Parasound's in that budget. A watt is not a watt. The Adcom GFA-545 is only rated at 100wpc 8 ohms, and it will spank just about any receiver you find in a store.Please. Please contact me a ben62670 @ yahoo.com. Make sure to include who you are, and you are from Polk so I don't delete your email. Also I am now physically unable to work on any projects. If you need help let these guys know. There are many people who will help if you let them know where you are.
Thanks
Ben -
disneyjoe7 wrote: »I think you can hear the difference for sure.
OH MAMMA! it's like i got new speaker's!! and i'm just using some rocketfish 16g wire lol
i definately reccomend this (pulling the flat metal connector and running a small jumper) to anyone with dual binding post's on their speaker'sMedia Room 7.1
Sharp lc37d64u | Sanus vmsab-03 | Sonax ZX8680 | Yamaha htr-6290b | Emotiva xpa1 x 2 & xpa5 | RTiA 9 & 7 | CSiA 6 | FXiA 6 | Sanus NF30B-03 | Velodyne dls-3750r | Dual 505-3 m97xe | Monster avs2000/hts5100
HTPC
Intel e5300 | Asus p5q DLX | LG ch08 BD | OCZ 4g reaper2 | WD 1TB | Sapphire 4890 VaporX 1g | Asus Xonar HDAV 1.3 | OCZ modXtreme 700w | Antec Fusion remote MAX
A fool and his money are easily parted
I don't drink Koolaid
Need some cable's? Just ask -
Cool. I'm never going to biamp my 1.2 TL's so I got rid of mine altogether and just combined them on the inside. I'm using the top posts for the interconnect cable.SDA SRS 2.3TL's
Silk Audio MS-90-BT integrated tube amp
Yaqin MS-20L integrated tube amp
SDA 2B TL's -
^^ WOAH that look's confusing!
here is what i did on my RTiA's + CSiAMedia Room 7.1
Sharp lc37d64u | Sanus vmsab-03 | Sonax ZX8680 | Yamaha htr-6290b | Emotiva xpa1 x 2 & xpa5 | RTiA 9 & 7 | CSiA 6 | FXiA 6 | Sanus NF30B-03 | Velodyne dls-3750r | Dual 505-3 m97xe | Monster avs2000/hts5100
HTPC
Intel e5300 | Asus p5q DLX | LG ch08 BD | OCZ 4g reaper2 | WD 1TB | Sapphire 4890 VaporX 1g | Asus Xonar HDAV 1.3 | OCZ modXtreme 700w | Antec Fusion remote MAX
A fool and his money are easily parted
I don't drink Koolaid
Need some cable's? Just ask -
Amazing what a wire can do
Speakers
Carver Amazing Fronts
CS400i Center
RT800i's Rears
Sub Paradigm Servo 15
Electronics
Conrad Johnson PV-5 pre-amp
Parasound Halo A23
Pioneer 84TXSi AVR
Pioneer 79Avi DVD
Sony CX400 CD changer
Panasonic 42-PX60U Plasma
WMC Win7 32bit HD DVR -
disneyjoe7 wrote: »Amazing what a wire can do
tell me about it! it will be interesting to hear the difference when i switch to a better cable altogether later on down the road :cool: as it is right now they sound more "alive" if that make's sense
i think Polk should save themselve's the cash and do away with those jumper's completely and include instruction's on how to do basic wire hook-upMedia Room 7.1
Sharp lc37d64u | Sanus vmsab-03 | Sonax ZX8680 | Yamaha htr-6290b | Emotiva xpa1 x 2 & xpa5 | RTiA 9 & 7 | CSiA 6 | FXiA 6 | Sanus NF30B-03 | Velodyne dls-3750r | Dual 505-3 m97xe | Monster avs2000/hts5100
HTPC
Intel e5300 | Asus p5q DLX | LG ch08 BD | OCZ 4g reaper2 | WD 1TB | Sapphire 4890 VaporX 1g | Asus Xonar HDAV 1.3 | OCZ modXtreme 700w | Antec Fusion remote MAX
A fool and his money are easily parted
I don't drink Koolaid
Need some cable's? Just ask -
This was TRUELY a great thread.:) I am kind of new to this high end stuff, and I never knew about the wire connections as described above. I just assumed that the metal bridges were all that would ever be needed on my polks. First thing in the AM I am going to follow the above suggestions and rewire all of my speakers.
Thank you all VERY MUCH for taking the time to give out this information, it is a GREAT help to people like myself.:D
Shooter313===>> -
N/P shooter! I'm pretty new to this stuff myself and was REAL skeptical at first but it really made a difference!
I'm not shure but i think the jumper bar's add to much resistance and "muffle" the soundMedia Room 7.1
Sharp lc37d64u | Sanus vmsab-03 | Sonax ZX8680 | Yamaha htr-6290b | Emotiva xpa1 x 2 & xpa5 | RTiA 9 & 7 | CSiA 6 | FXiA 6 | Sanus NF30B-03 | Velodyne dls-3750r | Dual 505-3 m97xe | Monster avs2000/hts5100
HTPC
Intel e5300 | Asus p5q DLX | LG ch08 BD | OCZ 4g reaper2 | WD 1TB | Sapphire 4890 VaporX 1g | Asus Xonar HDAV 1.3 | OCZ modXtreme 700w | Antec Fusion remote MAX
A fool and his money are easily parted
I don't drink Koolaid
Need some cable's? Just ask -
sTiLlLeArNiNg wrote: »tell me about it! it will be interesting to hear the difference when i switch to a better cable altogether later on down the road :cool: as it is right now they sound more "alive" if that make's sense
i think Polk should save themselve's the cash and do away with those jumper's completely and include instruction's on how to do basic wire hook-up
Jump on this amazing deal, 10 gauge Acoustic Research wires. http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=109-064 I got it and was amazed by the results. I'm NOT running any amps., just straight to the receiver.
The low's on my RTi 10's came alive! very clear sound compared to the 14 ga. Audio Quest speaker wires I was using.
HT:
Projector - JVC HD100, 100" Fixed Screen, A/V Receiver - Pioneer Elite VSX-92TXH, Power Conditioner - Panamax M5300-EX, BluRay - Sony PS3, (2) ADCOM GFA 555 Bridged, Speakers - LSi 15, LSi C, LSi FX, Sub - 12" M&K VX-1250.
Living Room:
Schiit Saga, Parasound HCA-600, OPPO BDP-103D, LSi7 -
pablo_rodz wrote: »jump on this amazing deal, 10 gauge acoustic research wires. http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=109-064 i got it and was amazed by the results. I'm not running any amps., just straight to the receiver.
The low's on my rti 10's came alive! Very clear sound compared to the 14 ga. Audio quest speaker wires i was using.
+1,000,000SDA SRS 2.3TL's
Silk Audio MS-90-BT integrated tube amp
Yaqin MS-20L integrated tube amp
SDA 2B TL's