power wiring/system draw questions
ahardy17
Posts: 84
well my new project involves 3 amps and i also have a 300-watt power inverter in my trunk. I'm afraid my wiring is not sufficient and maybe even my alternator.
it's like this:
my amps run:
1100 watts mono @1 ohm for my subs (Memphis M3's)
190 watts X 2 @2 ohms for my front components (Infinity Kappa)
60 watts X 2 @ 4 ohms (rear fill speakers)
so that's about 1600 watts if all the amps were running at full power, which they won't be because that's more power than my speakers need.
The two subs handle 400 watts each and the front speakers handle 90 watts. rears (db690) are 100 rms. so that's about 1200 watts.
now here are my issues:
I currently have a 1/0-guage wire running to a 4 way distribution block in the trunk. first of all, is that sufficient for all that power, in your opinion?
also, is there any chance this won't kill my altnernator? it's a 95-amp alternator i believe. I am considering getting a yellowtop, would that help it all hold up?
it's like this:
my amps run:
1100 watts mono @1 ohm for my subs (Memphis M3's)
190 watts X 2 @2 ohms for my front components (Infinity Kappa)
60 watts X 2 @ 4 ohms (rear fill speakers)
so that's about 1600 watts if all the amps were running at full power, which they won't be because that's more power than my speakers need.
The two subs handle 400 watts each and the front speakers handle 90 watts. rears (db690) are 100 rms. so that's about 1200 watts.
now here are my issues:
I currently have a 1/0-guage wire running to a 4 way distribution block in the trunk. first of all, is that sufficient for all that power, in your opinion?
also, is there any chance this won't kill my altnernator? it's a 95-amp alternator i believe. I am considering getting a yellowtop, would that help it all hold up?
In-Car:
Head Unit: Sony MEX-1GP
Door speakers: Infinity Kappa 680.9cs
Rear speakers: Polk db690
Subwoofers: Memphis Audio 15-M3124
Amps: Pioneer GM5300T, Kenwood KAC 6020, Memphis Audio MCD1.1100
In-Home:
Harmon/Kardon AVR 230
Harmon/Kardon DVD 101
Yamaha RX-V995
Bose 161
Bose 901
Polk FXi30
Head Unit: Sony MEX-1GP
Door speakers: Infinity Kappa 680.9cs
Rear speakers: Polk db690
Subwoofers: Memphis Audio 15-M3124
Amps: Pioneer GM5300T, Kenwood KAC 6020, Memphis Audio MCD1.1100
In-Home:
Harmon/Kardon AVR 230
Harmon/Kardon DVD 101
Yamaha RX-V995
Bose 161
Bose 901
Polk FXi30
Post edited by ahardy17 on
Comments
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issues:
in my opinion, with all that power, doesn't get any smaller than 1/0.
i'd say YES theres a VERY GOOD chance it won't kill your alternator. yellowtop def. won't hurt (or kinetik, nor will upgrading ground wire(big 3
sounds like you got 2 4ohm 15s presenting 2ohm load about 800w maybe less(whats amp rated at 2ohms?), plus 90 x 2, plus 60 x 2= 1100w, same as me.Polk MM6501 kick panels, Eclipse cd7200mkll and SW9122 Bomb Box, Cadence A4, A7, CAP5, JL8W3V3 -
i am definitely not going any smaller than the 1/0 guage, i was just wondering if it will be sufficient or if i should perhaps run a seperate 4 guage for the mono amp. the yellowtop is the next thing on my list, followed by upgrading the big 3, so it's good to know i was on the right track with that.
my subs are 12's and they have dual 4-ohm voice coils. wired all in parellel they'll present a 1-ohm load to the memphis amp, which is what that amp is made to push. not sure what it pushes at 2 ohms, but it's significantly less than its 1 ohm rating.
1100 watts is the grand total for my speakers & subs. same with you?In-Car:
Head Unit: Sony MEX-1GP
Door speakers: Infinity Kappa 680.9cs
Rear speakers: Polk db690
Subwoofers: Memphis Audio 15-M3124
Amps: Pioneer GM5300T, Kenwood KAC 6020, Memphis Audio MCD1.1100
In-Home:
Harmon/Kardon AVR 230
Harmon/Kardon DVD 101
Yamaha RX-V995
Bose 161
Bose 901
Polk FXi30 -
u said distribution block. imagine u('ll) have smaller wire from there to amps.
ok i figured 2ohms in that case thats about 1400w. could prob def use better alternator..maybe secondary battery also..Polk MM6501 kick panels, Eclipse cd7200mkll and SW9122 Bomb Box, Cadence A4, A7, CAP5, JL8W3V3 -
ohh right the distribution block. i intend to have 4 guage out of that going to the mono amp and 8 guage to the other 2 amps.
the subs are 400w rms each so that amp won't be getting pushed to the limit or it'll cook those. i'm just hoping a yellowtop will make up for what the alternator can't put out when i have it up loudIn-Car:
Head Unit: Sony MEX-1GP
Door speakers: Infinity Kappa 680.9cs
Rear speakers: Polk db690
Subwoofers: Memphis Audio 15-M3124
Amps: Pioneer GM5300T, Kenwood KAC 6020, Memphis Audio MCD1.1100
In-Home:
Harmon/Kardon AVR 230
Harmon/Kardon DVD 101
Yamaha RX-V995
Bose 161
Bose 901
Polk FXi30 -
1100w right? so thats 550 each right. memphis's will love it
. yellowtop wont cut it. if $$ is issue and u r running 1400wrms i'd think about alt b4 batt.Polk MM6501 kick panels, Eclipse cd7200mkll and SW9122 Bomb Box, Cadence A4, A7, CAP5, JL8W3V3