Help with Phone Connections!

Ricardo

I need to add a couple of phone connections and I have no idea how to do this. Anyone that recognizes the connectors in the picture....how the hell do I get these plugs out? I have tried a little pressure but don't want to brake it.

Appreciate any help here.

nooshinjohn

the wires are pushed into the connectors, and the connector cuts the wire upon being pushed in to make the connection. Carefully pulling the wire out towards you will remove the wire from the connector. You can also pick up the proper tool from Home Depot or Lowes

Ricardo

nooshinjohn wrote: »

the wires are pushed into the connectors, and the connector cuts the wire upon being pushed in to make the connection. Carefully pulling the wire out towards you will remove the wire from the connector. You can also pick up the proper tool from Home Depot or Lowes

Pulling the wire out towards me? I don't think I'm getting this..looks like the wires could be pulled down but not straight out.... Can't the connector be pulled out with the wires in it?

Knucklehead

like nooshin said, they are a punch-down type connector, there are 2 little metal tabs inside the connector and when the wire is punched into the connector the tabs cut the jacket and make contact with the wire. hope this helps.

Ricardo

Ok. I have a couple of empty rows that I want to use for new connections; I get that when the connector is pushed in it will cut the wire and make the connection...but how do I pull the connectors out? I need to do that in order to insert the cables and then push the connectors back in. And, is each of these rows a single connector, or each wire is an individual connector?

Thanks.

bruss

looks like a 110 punch down block. More like somethign you would see in a structured wiring cabinet.

They make tools alot cheaper than this but this is what you need to terminate to the block.. And the tool cuts the wire not the connector.. If indeed that is a 110 distribution block..




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Knucklehead

Ricardo wrote: »

but how do I pull the connectors out? I need to do that in order to insert the cables and then push the connectors back in. And, is each of these rows a single connector, or each wire is an individual connector?Thanks.

Each wire is an individual connection (typically) as far as I know the connectors themselves are not removeable, you just remove the individual wires.

bruss

you can just punch down another wire right on top. You only need to punch down bluWhite/Blu for phone. It looks like ma bell punched down yellow and black from the NID on the side of your house.. Usually they use red/green but whatever.. Since this block looks like it is bridged by the red wire running vertical to all sockets(ie All bluWhite are connected all Blu is connected etc...) it should be pretty easy to tap into any of the bluWhite/Blu pairs or if you have a open socket I cant see into there. If you need even more you can make some jumper wire and jump over to orangeWhite/orange.. you dig?

Knucklehead

bruss wrote: »

you can just punch down another wire right on top.

Bruss, that would share the same phone line...correct? i think he might have been adding a new line, not sure though.

disneyjoe7

They are punch down type, I at times used a small flat screw driver to push down and cut. The yellow / black wire looks like an alarm wire so this is where you what to add a phone wire, you may need to join 3 wires together so that you can add new, tie old feed, and where it's now punched down.

BTW is this an office building, as it doesn't look like a home wiring

Ricardo

I am just adding another connection for the same line (at home)

Either I am stupid, or you guys don't understand what I'm saying.

See the picture below; the last two connectors-rows are empty; I just want to add sume wires into one of them. You say I just need to punch down....how do I do that? Do I need to remove something, insert the cable, and then punch, or just insert the cable without removing anything, and punch?

Ricardo

And you are right Steve; those black/yellow are the alarm connection; since I moved to digital phone the alarm is not communicating out, so I need to change the feed into a different point, and have the digital phone input there.

Knucklehead

Ricardo wrote: »

or just insert the cable without removing anything, and punch?

exactly!

disneyjoe7

Sorry Richardo, I didn't understand what you where doing.


If you like to add this phone wire that is really sweet pro, yes you need a punch down tool. You add that wire punch down it will push it down and cut the wire. You're done.

If you need it NOW use a small screw driver and do it manual. Push down then cut, not as pretty but it works. Wouldn't do everyday but for quicky yes

disneyjoe7

Ricardo wrote: »

And you are right Steve; those black/yellow are the alarm connection; since I moved to digital phone the alarm is not communicating out, so I need to change the feed into a different point, and have the digital phone input there.

Where do you live

I'll be over there THANK YOU.

bruss

yea.. in the first pic i couldnt see the empty row.. just get your pair in the empty row and you should get dial tone. The red wire bridges all the connector slots together and thats why it will work.

dkg999

Hmmm, Ricardo's alarm is offline .................. I know I have his address somewhere .......... how heavy is that amp?

Ricardo

Thanks guys; not beeing able to see the inside of this it's hard to know how it works.

disneyjoe7

You need to remove the phone plug on you D-mark (should be a grey box outside) to power you in house jacks. Your alarm panel should be before any house jacks that's why it was wired like that before. The alarm got you street phone wire before it comes back from the panel to power the house jacks. I tied to get an alarm to work on VOIP phone line but I couldn't get it to work. I also couldn't get an Tivo DVR to work on that VOIP phone also. It sounds ok between a cell phone and a land phone, but couldn't get any digital produce fax, alarm, tivo to work with it. Well just my $.02

Ricardo

dkg999 wrote: »

Hmmm, Ricardo's alarm is offline .................. I know I have his address somewhere .......... how heavy is that amp?

Offline, meaning it won't transmit to the control center...but it will still wake up the neighbors

Ricardo

The alarm guys want $90 to come make it work. Pffft.

Knucklehead

Ricardo wrote: »

And you are right Steve; those black/yellow are the alarm connection; since I moved to digital phone the alarm is not communicating out, so I need to change the feed into a different point, and have the digital phone input there.

Your alarm panel isnt going to communicate on a digital line, in financial institutions I have to use a noise filter on the line, im sure its the same for residential. Thats why DSL internet subscribers who use the same provider for phone services have to install filters on the phone lines. the alarms internal modem can not communicate over a digital line.

From the web:

A DSL filter is an analog low-pass filter installed on telephones and other analog devices to prevent interference between such devices and Digital Subscriber Line (DSL) service operating on the same line. Without the installation of filters, high-frequency signals or echoes from analog devices can result in reduced performance and connection problems with DSL service, and the high-frequency signals from the DSL service can result in line noise and other issues for analog devices.

By filtering the frequencies at each end of this wide-open range (4 KHz to 2.2 MHz) and isolating them from the voice-bandwidth channel, the local telco can transport both traditional telephone signals and high-speed xDSL signals over the same old four-wire telephone line that already links your home or business to their central office (CO). At least, that�s the promise of xDSL.

Ricardo

Ok; I'll try doing what the alarm people said would work (have the alarm fed directly from the phone line, before it goes to any of the house jacks).

If it doesn't work, then I guess I'll call them.

Knucklehead

im not so sure thats going to work with having a digital line, just remember, your alarm panel has to be the first device on the phone ckt, incoming on tip and ring (normally green and red) and outgoing on the return (grey and brown) to the house phones, if the alarm panel is not first in the ckt it will not be able to seize the phone line to dial out.

bruss

Are you using a "digital phone" like from your cable company? So no ma bell right? Call your digital phone provider and see if they support it. They may very well come do it for less than the 90 bones the alarms company wants

disneyjoe7

I have an alarm wired on my dsl phone line, mine works ok but maybe because I don't use those dsl filters on my phone jacks. I paid for a pro dsl wiring installation, so they could add the D-mark dsl filter. So the main phone wire is clean before the alarm.


Then I couldn't get the alarm, fax or tivo to work with a voip phone, I work for ma bell, I also worked as an alarm technician for 15 years before so I know both sides. Not sure that is great as both of hate each other.

Knucklehead

LOL...so true, I try to be nice to the phone techs I work with, if im lucky they will even wire up the rj31x for me. Bosch/Radionics will be supporting digital lines in the next gen of panels. should make things much easier.

KrazyMofo24

The alarm will work on a pots line with DSL, but it will cause problems so Knucklehead is right you definitely want a DSL filter installed. It looks like you are good because it was installed at the NID.

Yeah VOIP and alarms is no good. Most home alarms are not compatible with VOIP, simply because they have to send the alarm signal over the internet through packets. The protocol used for VOIP is UDP therefore, if packets get lost/dropped then the alarm company won't get the signal. Since VOIP uses UDP, it doesn't resend the information if it gets dropped. If it did phone conversations wouldn't work.

So the alarm signal might make it successfully to the alarm company most of the time, but there is no guarantee it'll always make it. Also if the latency is too high that will also cause issues.

Ricardo

I used Steve's screwdriver recommendation and everything worked fine

-From cable modem to unused jack (have one of those plug only wireless in that room).
-From that jack into the panel, bypassing two wires through the alarm (blue and white-blue, just like it was originally)

Tested and the alarm co. is getting the signal; not sure if it will work every time, but I saved $90.

Thanks for the help; it is really simple, I just had never worked with these connectors and thought it was a male-female thing.

hearingimpared

How about some after pics?

disneyjoe7

I happy it worked for you ok.