Monitor 10 tweeters

salasg
salasg Posts: 172
edited September 2009 in Vintage Speakers
I have a pair of Monitor 10B's with silver coil SL1000's. I have a pair of
SL2500's that are coming out of my RTA15T's. I have read on other posts that the SL1000's are not very good tweeter's. Could/should I take the
SL2500's and replace the SL1000's? And if so would I have to modify the crossovers? Or would I be better off replacing the SL1000's with SL2000's?
I could do either but want some input which might be best. :D
Thanks
Post edited by salasg on

Comments

  • JohnLocke88
    JohnLocke88 Posts: 1,150
    edited August 2009
    Why do you want to replace the tweeter? Is there something you don't like about it?
  • salasg
    salasg Posts: 172
    edited August 2009
    I guess I have heard that th SL1000's are not as good as others. I would consider this more of an upgrade. The SL1000's sound a little bright and tinny. Wondered if the SL2000's or 2500's would be possible.
    In your opinion would you stick with the SL1000's ?:confused:
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,753
    edited August 2009
    You can't use the SL2500's without a crossover mod. Your best bet, IMO, is to get a pair of RD0194-1's.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • Bobsama
    Bobsama Posts: 526
    edited August 2009
    Why not a pair of Peerless instead? And, to be honest, most of the "tinny" sound comes from the source. What are you using as source material?
    polkaudio Monitor 5 Series II
    polkaudio SDA-1 (with the SL1000)
    TEAC AG-H300 MK III stereo receiver
    beyerdynamic DT-880 Premium (600 Ω) headphones
    SENNHEISER HD-555 headphones
    Little Dot MK IV tube headphone amp
    Little Dot DAC_I balanced D/A converter
  • comfortablycurt
    comfortablycurt Posts: 6,745
    edited August 2009
    I don't believe you could use the Peerless tweeters either without modifying the XO's. The Peerless equipped speakers used an extra resistor in the signal path.

    I'd have to agree with F1, your best bet is to get a pair of RD0-194's.
    The nirvana inducer-
    APC H10 Power Conditioner
    Marantz UD5005 universal player
    Parasound Halo P5 preamp
    Parasound HCA-1200II power amp
    PolkAudio LSi9's/PolkAudio SDA 2A's/PolkAudio Monitor 7A's
    Audioquest Speaker Cables and IC's
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,753
    edited August 2009
    Bobsama wrote: »
    Why not a pair of Peerless instead? And, to be honest, most of the "tinny" sound comes from the source. What are you using as source material?

    Peerless are overrated and the SL1000's are bright and tinny. It's got nothing to do with the source.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • comfortablycurt
    comfortablycurt Posts: 6,745
    edited August 2009
    F1nut wrote: »
    Peerless are overrated

    I'd have to disagree with you there, but to each their own. Personally, I like the sound of the Peerless tweeters in my M7's more than the RD0's in my 2A's. Not that I don't enjoy the RD0's of course. They're both very nice tweeters IMO.
    The nirvana inducer-
    APC H10 Power Conditioner
    Marantz UD5005 universal player
    Parasound Halo P5 preamp
    Parasound HCA-1200II power amp
    PolkAudio LSi9's/PolkAudio SDA 2A's/PolkAudio Monitor 7A's
    Audioquest Speaker Cables and IC's
  • Face
    Face Posts: 14,340
    edited August 2009
    I find Peerless tweeters dull.

    They were good tweeters for that era, but don't compare to modern tweeters.
    "He who fights with monsters should look to it that he himself does not become a monster. And when you gaze long into an abyss the abyss also gazes into you." Friedrich Nietzsche
  • salasg
    salasg Posts: 172
    edited August 2009
    Ok. Sounds like some of this is personal preference. I have thought about replacing them with peerless, but they are hard to come by. But it looks like RDO's are the way to go if I am gonna change the SL1000's. Does that require any XO mods? Although I am planning on doing it later.
  • skrol
    skrol Posts: 3,393
    edited August 2009
    Face wrote: »
    I find Peerless tweeters dull.

    They were good tweeters for that era, but don't compare to modern tweeters.

    I just pulled out my Monitor 5A's (Peerless) yesterday and i thought they were rather bright. I know that Polk made changes to the XO's along the way. there are at least 2 configurations for the 5A's. Looking at the values in my XO, I would expect them to be brighter than the other version. Bright or dull, it may be in the XO.

    Stan
    Stan

    Main 2ch:
    Polk LSi15 (DB840 upgrade), Parasound: P/LD-1100, HCA-1000A; Denon: DVD-2910, DRM-800A; Benchmark DAC1, Monster HTS3600-MKII, Grado SR-225i; Technics SL-J2, Parasound PPH-100.

    HT:
    Marantz SR7010, Polk: RTA11TL (RDO198-1, XO and Damping Upgrades), S4, CS250, PSW110 , Marantz UD5005, Pioneer PL-530, Panasonic TC-P42S60

    Other stuff:
    Denon: DRA-835R, AVR-888, DCD-660, DRM-700A, DRR-780; Polk: S8, Monitor 5A, 5B, TSi100, RM7, PSW10 (DXi104 upgrade); Pioneer: CT-6R; Onkyo CP-1046F; Ortofon OM5E, Marantz: PM5004, CD5004, CDR-615; Parasound C/PT-600, HCA-800ii, Sony CDP-650ESD, Technics SA 5070, B&W DM601
  • comfortablycurt
    comfortablycurt Posts: 6,745
    edited August 2009
    skrol wrote: »
    I just pulled out my Monitor 5A's (Peerless) yesterday and i thought they were rather bright. I know that Polk made changes to the XO's along the way. there are at least 2 configurations for the 5A's. Looking at the values in my XO, I would expect them to be brighter than the other version. Bright or dull, it may be in the XO.

    Stan

    Out of curiosity, what are the values of the resistors in your 5A's?

    Bright is the last way I'd describe the Peerless tweeters, but one persons bright is another persons dull I suppose.

    I'd call them more laid back, mellow and airy myself.
    The nirvana inducer-
    APC H10 Power Conditioner
    Marantz UD5005 universal player
    Parasound Halo P5 preamp
    Parasound HCA-1200II power amp
    PolkAudio LSi9's/PolkAudio SDA 2A's/PolkAudio Monitor 7A's
    Audioquest Speaker Cables and IC's
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,753
    edited August 2009
    I like the sound of the Peerless tweeters in my M7's more than the RD0's in my 2A's.

    Apples and oranges. :)
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • skrol
    skrol Posts: 3,393
    edited August 2009
    Mine have a 2.5 ohm resistor I have seen other 5A's with a 6.2 ohm. I had posted pics somewhere around here a while back.
    Stan

    Main 2ch:
    Polk LSi15 (DB840 upgrade), Parasound: P/LD-1100, HCA-1000A; Denon: DVD-2910, DRM-800A; Benchmark DAC1, Monster HTS3600-MKII, Grado SR-225i; Technics SL-J2, Parasound PPH-100.

    HT:
    Marantz SR7010, Polk: RTA11TL (RDO198-1, XO and Damping Upgrades), S4, CS250, PSW110 , Marantz UD5005, Pioneer PL-530, Panasonic TC-P42S60

    Other stuff:
    Denon: DRA-835R, AVR-888, DCD-660, DRM-700A, DRR-780; Polk: S8, Monitor 5A, 5B, TSi100, RM7, PSW10 (DXi104 upgrade); Pioneer: CT-6R; Onkyo CP-1046F; Ortofon OM5E, Marantz: PM5004, CD5004, CDR-615; Parasound C/PT-600, HCA-800ii, Sony CDP-650ESD, Technics SA 5070, B&W DM601
  • Bobsama
    Bobsama Posts: 526
    edited August 2009
    F1nut wrote: »
    Peerless are overrated and the SL1000's are bright and tinny. It's got nothing to do with the source.

    If you're playing poorly encoded MP3's, there's your source of tinny-ness. If you have a poor source, you'll have poor music. It's unavoidable. Make sure that's not the problem. And while you're correct that they ARE bright and CAN be tinny, listening to them with proper sources MAY satisfy the owner--that they're not too bright or not too tinny.

    As for upgrading from SL1000's, just realize that you will have to open up the holes a bit to fit in RDO-194's.
    polkaudio Monitor 5 Series II
    polkaudio SDA-1 (with the SL1000)
    TEAC AG-H300 MK III stereo receiver
    beyerdynamic DT-880 Premium (600 Ω) headphones
    SENNHEISER HD-555 headphones
    Little Dot MK IV tube headphone amp
    Little Dot DAC_I balanced D/A converter
  • madmike
    madmike Posts: 81
    edited August 2009
    My 5B's had 2.7 Ohm resistors in them, seems like there was lots of variations. My 5B's were manufactured in 1985. They now have the RDO-194-1 tweeters and I've upgraded the X-overs. Have about a month of listening on them and I think that they sound better then when they were new. IMO
  • skrol
    skrol Posts: 3,393
    edited August 2009
    I was playing with my 5A's again and I thing the brightness was due to setting on my AVR-888. When I hooked them up to my DRA-835R to compare to the RTA11TLs, the 5As were about the same brightness but somehow smoother in character. As one would expect, they certainly do not have the full bodied sound of the RTA11TLs.
    Stan

    Main 2ch:
    Polk LSi15 (DB840 upgrade), Parasound: P/LD-1100, HCA-1000A; Denon: DVD-2910, DRM-800A; Benchmark DAC1, Monster HTS3600-MKII, Grado SR-225i; Technics SL-J2, Parasound PPH-100.

    HT:
    Marantz SR7010, Polk: RTA11TL (RDO198-1, XO and Damping Upgrades), S4, CS250, PSW110 , Marantz UD5005, Pioneer PL-530, Panasonic TC-P42S60

    Other stuff:
    Denon: DRA-835R, AVR-888, DCD-660, DRM-700A, DRR-780; Polk: S8, Monitor 5A, 5B, TSi100, RM7, PSW10 (DXi104 upgrade); Pioneer: CT-6R; Onkyo CP-1046F; Ortofon OM5E, Marantz: PM5004, CD5004, CDR-615; Parasound C/PT-600, HCA-800ii, Sony CDP-650ESD, Technics SA 5070, B&W DM601
  • StantonZ
    StantonZ Posts: 445
    edited September 2009
    Bobsama wrote: »
    As for upgrading from SL1000's, just realize that you will have to open up the holes a bit to fit in RDO-194's.

    Good point; that's what scares me from going back-and-forth between Peerless and the RDO replacements depending on the model you have (I have both types of tweets in two types of speakers, but haven't been motivated to replace anything yet). You need a good seal.
    Yamaha RX-A2050 AVR (5.0.2); LG OLED77C2 4K TV
    (4) Polk Monitor 10B's w/SoniCaps, Mills, and RDO-194 tweets (R/L F/R)
    (2) Polk RC80i (Top Middle)
    Polk CS300 center channel
    Analog: B&O TX2 Turntable, Nakamichi Cassette Deck 1
    Digital: Pioneer CLD-99 Elite LD, Panasonic DMP-UB900 UHD Blu-Ray
    Bedroom: Arylic Up2Stream AMPv3 driving Polk Monitor 4's w/peerless tweets
  • gdb
    gdb Posts: 6,012
    edited September 2009
    salasg wrote: »
    I have a pair of Monitor 10B's with silver coil SL1000's. I have a pair of
    SL2500's that are coming out of my RTA15T's. I have read on other posts that the SL1000's are not very good tweeter's. Could/should I take the
    SL2500's and replace the SL1000's? And if so would I have to modify the crossovers? Or would I be better off replacing the SL1000's with SL2000's?
    I could do either but want some input which might be best. :D
    Thanks

    If you'd like to try some SL2000s, I'll send you two in the box that I'm sending for the frozen MWs. I'm going to send it out on Tue. or Wed. so let me know if you want to try some. To be honest, I find the 2000 to be awfully bright for music in general, but some people really like them a lot.:)
  • niles300z
    niles300z Posts: 21
    edited September 2009
    So if my 7B's had the Peerless, which I loved before I blew them, and I get the RDO's, should I remove the resistor or should that work out ok until I get daring enough to try my hand a replacing caps? Thanks guys. Still looking for a couple Peerless too.