blown momo

Systems
Systems Posts: 14,873
edited March 2003 in Car Audio & Electronics
I have a pair of 12" polk momo's. One of them just stopped working today, so i opened up the box, look at the sub, and the wire that goes between the subwoofer cone and the terminal(the negative terminal, if that matters) has broken. It broke *right* at the terminal. I mean all i can see on the terminal is sauder, and maybee 1/16 inch of wire, and the rest of the wire is just sitting there.

Unfortunatly this sub was bought on ebay, and it was bought about 18 months ago. It has served me very well untill now. My main question is can i repair this, even just ghetto-rigg for a month or two untill i can afford to replace my subs(been considering another momo, or perhaps a move to two kicker 12L7's, or a single, ported 12" adire brahma)

Some ideas i had, would be to just strip the wire, and resolder the now shorter wire on, this strikes me as possibly being bad though because i'm not sure how much slack there is in those wires when the sub is really moving.

Another thing i thought of, was perhaps use a 1/2" wire, solder that to the old wire, and then solder the other end of the 1/2" wire to the terminal.

I know that if i do repair the sub, it will most likely break again, but hopefully it will be long enough for me to save up some money.

Thanks for any help.

Knght
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Post edited by Unknown User on

Comments

  • PoweredByDodge
    PoweredByDodge Posts: 4,185
    edited March 2003
    Originally posted by knght
    Another thing i thought of, was perhaps use a 1/2" wire, solder that to the old wire, and then solder the other end of the 1/2" wire to the terminal.

    the tinsel leads snapping was a known bug with the old style red cab momo subs.

    If you can add a very very short piece of like 18 gauge or whatever the tinsel leads are (i think they're 18 or 16.. they're surely not 14)... and then do a good solder job, chances are, that will NOT break again.

    One of the installers at the local circuit city was cutting / extending the tinsel leads on every momo he put in (old red cap)for a while.
    The Artist formerly known as PoweredByDodge
  • sntnsupermen131
    sntnsupermen131 Posts: 1,831
    edited March 2003
    circuit city guys fixing momos?
    hmmm....
    -Cody
  • ChevyMan4x4
    ChevyMan4x4 Posts: 52
    edited March 2003
    Cut the lead and re soder them that sould fix your problem :):lol:
    Sir Daniel X. Boom - the GNX slayer
  • Systems
    Systems Posts: 14,873
    edited March 2003
    Anyone have suggestions on the best way to connect the wires?

    I've done a bit of soldering, but not alot. I know the strongest connection would be a double-eyehook, but i dont think i want to put that much extra wire on there. The other way i know to join two wires with solder, is to fan out the wires in both, then twist them together into one, and then solder the result, but i'm just afraid this wont be a strong enough connection.

    Any insights would be appreciated, thanks.

    Erik
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  • philly420
    philly420 Posts: 13
    edited March 2003
    The best way to connect two seperate wires would be to strip about 1/4" or less of the outer rubber off the wire. Once that is done, take the two ends and twist them seperately. after that, take the two ends that you are connecting and twist them together. solder the wires and once that is cool, take some electrical tape and wrap it around any bare wire that is showing and over the soldered part.

    Good luck with your small repair!
  • PoweredByDodge
    PoweredByDodge Posts: 4,185
    edited March 2003
    knight --- the tinsel leads on the momos are not jacketed --- which means they have no insulation..its just bare wire --- however they may have a protective coating... in which case, u need to get that off of the tip ... just glaze the soldering iron (once its hot) over the tip back and forth briskly for a moment and if there is a coating it'll peel off (hopefully).

    u can check if there is by just takeing a multimeter and pressing one probe to the tip of the wire, and hte other to somewhere on the wire an inch down... if it shows no resistance... then bingo... there's no coating.

    as far as how to solder... tip to tip -- i know its not the best way in the world, but it will hold... with the extended wire you will notice that there is moreslack in the line, and thus you will have less chance of tension breakages.

    before u solder, slip a small piece of heatshrink tubing over the long end of the wire and slide it up toward the cone... after u GENTLY solder the two pieces tip to tip with some decent bearing silver solder just slide that tubing down over yoru solder joint... heat it witha hair dryer and boom you've got a nice solid joint that will not fall apart.

    whatever u do just remember two things
    1- be PATIENT... if u cant get them to sit together "just right", dont rush it, dont go and slip your hand and put the iron through the cone or melt something else... better to take a n hour or two and baby the thing than kick yourself later.

    2- make sure the iron is HOT...but beware... if you heat the tinsel leads for more than just a brief second or two, you'll find that you may end up burning the cone, detaching htem from the voice coil (cuz they'll get hot at hte other end and come unsoldered at the coil) or **** something else up... best to take the piece of wire you're adding on and melt a dab of solder onto that... then.. move to the tinsel lead.. and just briefly hit the iron to your dab on the one wire... and immediately press it to the other wire... if it looks straight, give it a quick blow of air and it'll harden solid.

    that's the best i can tell u on "ghetto rigging" a speaker.

    good luck kimosabi.
    The Artist formerly known as PoweredByDodge