A little love for the 2B TL's

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  • inspiredsports
    inspiredsports Posts: 5,501
    edited May 2011
    Face wrote: »
    http://www.diyaudioandvideo.com/Calculator/Contour/Help.aspx

    http://www.diyaudioandvideo.com/Calculator/Contour/

    6-8 of that value, doubtful. Shoot me an email through the forum and tell me what you're looking to do and what grade caps you're looking for, I have a few bins of various values/brands.

    The second one is correct.

    I knew the second was correct, but if you bypassed 3 ohms, to my way of thinking you essentially did what the left side of my image shows as resistance is additive. Maybe I should have shown the .5 ohm polyswitch as a simple resistor, but I don't think the poly is any different from a simple resistor until it trips.
    VTL ST50 w/mods / RCA6L6GC / TlfnknECC801S
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    TT Conrad Johnson Sonographe SG3 Oak / Sumiko LMT / Grado Woodbody Platinum / Sumiko PIB2 / The Clamp
    Musical Fidelity A1 CDPro/ Bada DD-22 Tube CDP / Conrad Johnson SD-22 CDP
    Tuners w/mods Kenwood KT5020 / Fisher KM60
    MF x-DAC V8, HAInfo NG27
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  • Joe08867
    Joe08867 Posts: 3,919
    edited May 2011
    The second one is the one you want to use. The first one is bypassing the resistor and poly so it negates there existence.
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  • inspiredsports
    inspiredsports Posts: 5,501
    edited May 2011
    I knew I was in trouble when I didn't edit the polyswitch out of my image in post 29 above.

    I understand where the bypass should go, and that is how mine is done.

    What I'm not clear on is that some remove the polyswitch and "make up" for the resistance of the polyswitch that has been removed from the circuit by using a larger resistor. They then place the 5.8uf bypass cap "over" this higher value resistor.

    What I'm trying to learn is if the 5.8 over a larger value resistor in any way affects the sound quality at the tweeter when compared to bypassing a 2.7 ohm as Matt Polk originally prescribed. I'm inclined to stick with figure 2 in my image which is the way mine is currently done.

    I have 4 cases shown in the image below and want to know if the impact of the 5.8uf bypass cap is the same in all 4 cases (for some reason when you click the thumbnail,the image shows as a black rectangle and you have to click on the black to get it to load)
    VTL ST50 w/mods / RCA6L6GC / TlfnknECC801S
    Conrad Johnson PV-5 w/mods
    TT Conrad Johnson Sonographe SG3 Oak / Sumiko LMT / Grado Woodbody Platinum / Sumiko PIB2 / The Clamp
    Musical Fidelity A1 CDPro/ Bada DD-22 Tube CDP / Conrad Johnson SD-22 CDP
    Tuners w/mods Kenwood KT5020 / Fisher KM60
    MF x-DAC V8, HAInfo NG27
    Herbies Ti-9 / Vibrapods / MIT Shotgun AC1 IEC's / MIT Shotgun 2 IC's / MIT Shotgun 2 Speaker Cables
    PS Audio Cryo / PowerPort Premium Outlets / Exact Power EP15A Conditioner
    Walnut SDA 2B TL /Oak SDA SRS II TL (Sonicaps/Mills/Cardas/Custom SDA ICs / Dynamat Extreme / Larry's Rings/ FSB-2 Spikes
    NAD SS rigs w/mods
    GIK panels
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  • Face
    Face Posts: 14,340
    edited May 2011
    No, it shouldn't affect sound quality. A larger bypass resistor will only pad the tweeter down a little more, to compensate for the removal of the poly switch. I found a 3.0ohm Duelund(as wired in the illustration on page 1) in the HF circuit very balanced. Results may vary if Mills or another brand is used instead.
    "He who fights with monsters should look to it that he himself does not become a monster. And when you gaze long into an abyss the abyss also gazes into you." Friedrich Nietzsche
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  • inspiredsports
    inspiredsports Posts: 5,501
    edited May 2011
    Got it, Thanks!

    So based on that, I see it would be best to eliminate the extra resistor (and extra solder joints) and go with a 3.2 ohm in my case (if I can find that value) or use a 3.0 as you did if 3.2 is unavailable.

    I'm on it!
    VTL ST50 w/mods / RCA6L6GC / TlfnknECC801S
    Conrad Johnson PV-5 w/mods
    TT Conrad Johnson Sonographe SG3 Oak / Sumiko LMT / Grado Woodbody Platinum / Sumiko PIB2 / The Clamp
    Musical Fidelity A1 CDPro/ Bada DD-22 Tube CDP / Conrad Johnson SD-22 CDP
    Tuners w/mods Kenwood KT5020 / Fisher KM60
    MF x-DAC V8, HAInfo NG27
    Herbies Ti-9 / Vibrapods / MIT Shotgun AC1 IEC's / MIT Shotgun 2 IC's / MIT Shotgun 2 Speaker Cables
    PS Audio Cryo / PowerPort Premium Outlets / Exact Power EP15A Conditioner
    Walnut SDA 2B TL /Oak SDA SRS II TL (Sonicaps/Mills/Cardas/Custom SDA ICs / Dynamat Extreme / Larry's Rings/ FSB-2 Spikes
    NAD SS rigs w/mods
    GIK panels
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  • inspiredsports
    inspiredsports Posts: 5,501
    edited May 2011
    Post #37 promobank6 reported as spam for removal
    VTL ST50 w/mods / RCA6L6GC / TlfnknECC801S
    Conrad Johnson PV-5 w/mods
    TT Conrad Johnson Sonographe SG3 Oak / Sumiko LMT / Grado Woodbody Platinum / Sumiko PIB2 / The Clamp
    Musical Fidelity A1 CDPro/ Bada DD-22 Tube CDP / Conrad Johnson SD-22 CDP
    Tuners w/mods Kenwood KT5020 / Fisher KM60
    MF x-DAC V8, HAInfo NG27
    Herbies Ti-9 / Vibrapods / MIT Shotgun AC1 IEC's / MIT Shotgun 2 IC's / MIT Shotgun 2 Speaker Cables
    PS Audio Cryo / PowerPort Premium Outlets / Exact Power EP15A Conditioner
    Walnut SDA 2B TL /Oak SDA SRS II TL (Sonicaps/Mills/Cardas/Custom SDA ICs / Dynamat Extreme / Larry's Rings/ FSB-2 Spikes
    NAD SS rigs w/mods
    GIK panels
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  • audiocr381ve
    audiocr381ve Posts: 2,588
    edited November 2011
    Face wrote: »
    It's been a while since the first time I did this.

    IIRC, from the + input, there's one jumper and then the polyswitch(which was replaced by a jumper first time around). There's another jumper after the contour circuit, but the inductor's leads aren't long enough to bypass it.

    In the picture below, the + is the positive input, on the same trace is the 12uf's lead instead of a jumper. Due to the size of the 12uf ESA, I also used a different location on the board for it's other lead. Up top you see the solder joints for the 5.8uf/3ohm, then the tweeter output. The circled area is all the crap that I removed.

    SDA%202B%20TL%20Crossover%20Back.jpg

    What's wrong with using ESA's? IMO, you'll have to spend A LOT more for something noticeably better.

    Face, I just ordered new parts for my CRS+'s and want to do the same thing you did with the Dueland resistor for the TL mod, except using Mundorf 3.3 ohm 10 Watt resistors.

    You mentioned moving your 12uf cap lead. I won't have to do that in my crossovers so my question is if NOT having to move my 12uf cap lead will interfere with this mod. All I'm doing is adding the resistor to the 5.8uf cap position and removing the jumper at the "+" terminal where the poly used to be correct?
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  • audiocr381ve
    audiocr381ve Posts: 2,588
    edited November 2011
    audiocr381ve wrote: »
    Face, I just ordered new parts for my CRS+'s and want to do the same thing you did with the Dueland resistor for the TL mod, except using Mundorf 3.3 ohm 10 Watt resistors.

    You mentioned moving your 12uf cap lead. I won't have to do that in my crossovers so my question is if NOT having to move my 12uf cap lead will interfere with this mod. All I'm doing is adding the resistor to the 5.8uf cap position and removing the jumper at the "+" terminal where the poly used to be correct?

    Sheesh, I hope that made sense.
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  • Toolfan66
    Toolfan66 Posts: 17,243
    edited November 2011
    Just make it easy and get a set of boards from gimpod? It's so much easier then working with the small board.

    Worth every penny and thats why I have two sets in my goodie box..
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  • Face
    Face Posts: 14,340
    edited November 2011
    audiocr381ve wrote: »
    Face, I just ordered new parts for my CRS+'s and want to do the same thing you did with the Dueland resistor for the TL mod, except using Mundorf 3.3 ohm 10 Watt resistors.

    You mentioned moving your 12uf cap lead. I won't have to do that in my crossovers so my question is if NOT having to move my 12uf cap lead will interfere with this mod. All I'm doing is adding the resistor to the 5.8uf cap position and removing the jumper at the "+" terminal where the poly used to be correct?
    Why are you using a 3.3uf? Are they on the bright side?
    "He who fights with monsters should look to it that he himself does not become a monster. And when you gaze long into an abyss the abyss also gazes into you." Friedrich Nietzsche
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  • audiocr381ve
    audiocr381ve Posts: 2,588
    edited November 2011
    Face wrote: »
    Why are you using a 3.3uf? Are they on the bright side?

    It was the closest to a 3 ohm Mundorf I could find on the Madisound website. I thought it wouldn't be a big deal but it looks like it would pad down the tweeter to much.

    I ordered 3 ohm Mills resistors for my 2B's that I'll use for this project instead.

    Does my approach to this sound okay? Parallel the 3 ohm (Mills now lol) to the 5.8uf cap and then remove the jumper at the "+" input?
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  • audiocr381ve
    audiocr381ve Posts: 2,588
    edited November 2011
    Any thoughts Face?
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  • Face
    Face Posts: 14,340
    edited November 2011
    Removal of the jumper would depend on where you place the leg of the capacitor/resistor.
    "He who fights with monsters should look to it that he himself does not become a monster. And when you gaze long into an abyss the abyss also gazes into you." Friedrich Nietzsche
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  • audiocr381ve
    audiocr381ve Posts: 2,588
    edited November 2011
    Face wrote: »
    Removal of the jumper would depend on where you place the leg of the capacitor/resistor.

    Since we're talking about the same xover's, which cap/resistor are you talking about?

    I'm sorry, if you wouldn't mind entertaining me, I'll ask the same question differently. If I placed the 5.8uf and 3.0 ohm resistor in the exact place you had them, (Holes "H" and top of "C5"), then what more do I have to do to? My goal is to eliminate the jumper at "S1" and use the higher value resister (3 ohm) to pad down the tweeter exactly as you did as opposed to adding a resistor to pad down the tweeter at "S1".

    I'll move what I need to move to get it right, I just need some guidance. Thanks.
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