crossovers pulled and on their way
lbristow
Posts: 131
Pulled my crossovers out last night on my SDA-SRS and are sending them to Ben for upgrades. A couple of suprises (probably not for those that know about the makings of the speakers) First, I had no idea that the sub bass radiator was not hooked up to any current. How does this actually produce sound if not hooked up to anything Second, on the left speaker the wiring on the tweeters is the opposite of the right channel. On the right I had white on top, red, blue, yellow,green on the bottom. On the left white was always on the bottom. I assume this is supposed to be this way but I do not know:rolleyes: Also on the left speaker, the inside drivers go white black, 2white 2black, 1 white 3black, 1white 1black top to bottom. The right goes white black, 1white 3black, 2white 2black, 1white 1black, top to bottom. I think that they just put the wrong wire in the wrong hole, but on which speaker? I plan on sealing the speakers with clear caulking when I get the xovers back. Final question, the insulation that is inside the speakers, should it fill up the gaps in between the levels completely Thanks for the help fellow Polkies:)
Post edited by lbristow on
Comments
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1st off, the sub bass radatiors produce sound by the air that's moved inside the cabinet by the 6.5" mid woofers. If your SDA-SRS's were sealed, you could push on the sub bass radatior (gently) and see the mid-woofers move in and out.
2nd, you can download the wiring schematics for your particular model of SDA-SRS's here: http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?t=55888
3rd, before you start sealing your speakers do a search of the threads here of others who have done this already so you can follow what they have done. I wouldn't use "clear caulking" (assuming you are going to use caulking in a tube?). It's possible you may damage the cabinets. If you really want to test to see if your speakers are leaking depress the sub bass radatior and watch the mid woofers. They should pop out and return to their normal position in 2-3 seconds (I got this info from these forums!)
4th, no clue on the insulation and it's effects. I have left mine alone.2 Channel Basement Setup:
PC With M-Audio Audiophile 24/96 Card
Rotel RC-1070
Rotel RB-1090
Polk Audio SDA SRS 1.2TL (1991) w/RD0-198 Tweeters. -
I wouldn't use "clear caulking"
Absolutely not!Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Mortite:
http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?t=74524
FYI, they're called Passive Radiators when they're not powered.____________________
This post is a natural product. The slight variations in spelling and grammar enhance its individual character and beauty and in no way are to be considered flaws or defects.
HT:Onkyo 805, Emotiva XPA-5, Mitsu 52" 1080p DLP / polkaudio RTi12, CSIa6, FXi3, uPro4K
2-chnl : Pio DV-46AV (SACD), Dodd ELP, Emotiva XPA-1s, XPA-2, Odyssey Khartago, LSi9, SDA-SRS 2 :cool:, SB Duet, MSB & Monarchy DACs, Yamaha PX3 TT, SAE Tuner...
Pool: Atrium 60's/45's -
I looked at the wiring schematic, I am not an electrical engineer so I have no clue what this is telling me. The schematic for the xover is ok. Rope caulking or clear caulking, why is this going to make any difference
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Caulking in the tube will adhere to the wood and if you ever needed to pull a driver or tweeter you may or will pull some of the wood with it, Use mortite as stated above. It stays soft and comes off with the driver or tweeter.
Is Ben back home? He will do your crossovers justice.Polk Audio SDA 2.3tl Fully Hot Rodded. 😎
SVS SB16 X2
Cary SLP-05/Ultimate Upgrade.
Cary SA-500.1 ES Amps
Cary DMS 800PV Network
OPPO UDP 205/ModWright Modification
VPI Scout TT / Dynavector 20x2
Jolida JD9 Fully Modified
VPI MW-1 Cyclone RCM
MIT Shotgun 3 cables throughout / Except TT, and PC’s -
I have used rope caulking before, and after a year or so it dries out, cracks, and is rather useless. If you use a decent brand of caulking it stays soft, elastic, and has no chance of tearing up the cabinet. I am not applying glue here:eek: I hope he is, they are arriving tomorrow. Yes, he seems to have a pretty good knowledge of this type of thing. I am very interested in getting them back and turning them up. The pictures of the xovers he has done look quite impressive. Looking forward to having him tune them up
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TOOLFORLIFEFAN wrote: »Caulking in the tube will adhere to the wood and if you ever needed to pull a driver or tweeter you may or will pull some of the wood with it, Use mortite as stated above. It stays soft and comes off with the driver or tweeter.
Is Ben back home? He will do your crossovers justice.
His inbox has been full for weeks. I need to communicate with him for an upgrade to my CRS+'s."The good thing about science is that it's true whether or not you believe in it." Neil deGrasse Tyson. -
His inbox has been full for weeks. I need to communicate with him for an upgrade to my CRS+'s.
sounds to me like he needs to open up his own speaker company:D -
sounds to me like he needs to open up his own speaker company:D
Or at least clear out his inbox.....:)"The good thing about science is that it's true whether or not you believe in it." Neil deGrasse Tyson. -
TOOLFORLIFEFAN wrote: »Is Ben back home? He will do your crossovers justice.
If he is, his inbox is still not cleared. I've been waiting for a few weeks to get my XO's done, and my latest PM would not go through this morning.Primary System
Polk Audio SDA SRS 2.3TL (RDO198,Sonicap/Dayton/Mills,CardasCCGR,Mye Spikes,DynamatX,Driver Rings,Ben's IC,Bi-Wired)
Polk Audio CSiA4 x2 (C)
Polk Audio FXiA6 (S)
Polk Audio RTiA3 (RS)
Polk Audio FXiA4 (FX)
Epik Sentinel x2
Yamaha RX-V3900
Rotel RB-1090
Rotel RMB-1095
NAD C565 BEE
Technics/KAB SL-1210M5G w/ Denon DL-160
Parasound Halo P7
OPPO BDP-83
Panasonic TC-P65V10 65" Plasma