To Bi-wire or to not bi wi yadayadayada

underdawg
underdawg Posts: 5
edited July 2009 in Speakers
Hey. First time here. Please be gentle. I finally decided to go ahead and jump into the 21st century and spring for some 7.1 gear. I got a Sony SVR DG1000 amp on ebay fer 3 bills and a pair of Monitor 50 from newegg fer like 180 bucks, found a CS2 Center for cheap, and then I ran across a pair of Monitor 60's and bought them too. ( 260 for the pair ) 60's are up front a course, wif the CS2, the 50's are now rear surrounds with a pair of Yammy NS 6390's set to do bidnis as surround backs.

(I know. The 50's would be better surround backs but they don't fit there.)

Yep. I'm just kinda wingin it.

Here's the thing. I could bi-wire if I wanted to give up my 7.1 status, which I'm pretty freakin proud of at the moment, by using my surround back terminals..

Before I bought the 60's I tried the 50's both bi-wired and.. mono-wired, and I did hear a difference. Not much to my ear, but there was a difference.

I'd like to hear what you Polk guys think. When I wanna just listen to some music with my new setup here, how much of the good stuff am I gonna miss out on , cuz I ain't bi-wired.

I guess I should mention, sometime this Winter I'll be bi-amping. I have a pair of 15 inch Tru-Sonics that I'm gonna add into the mix..

Any thought would be welcome. I need all the hep I can get.

Underdawg
Post edited by underdawg on

Comments

  • Ern Dog
    Ern Dog Posts: 2,237
    edited July 2009
    Welcome and congrats on the Monitor speakers. I started with Monitor 70's and loved em.

    Your Bi-wire question is a mixed bag. Some swear it's better to bi-wire and others say it doesn't matter. So my advice to you is that since you hear an improvement when you bi-wire to stick with that. The only thing that really matters is what sounds better to your ears.
  • gmb2428
    gmb2428 Posts: 40
    edited July 2009
    I have a pair of rti150's, I bi-amped them so my yamaha rxv1900 was powering just the mids and highs. Then had an onkyo amp powering the 3 subs. Listened for a few days, then unhooked everything and just run the onkyo to power the full rti150 setup. I hear not one bit of difference at all!
  • underdawg
    underdawg Posts: 5
    edited July 2009
    yea ok fellers. Thanks for the input. There's a lot of options with this receicer I just bought. I think one of em is gonna be just about perfect, but it's gonna take a lot of trial and error. At this point I'm thinking that the 7 channel thing is gonna lose some of it's appeal after we readjust it 30 or 40 times, and then I'll just move those speakers to another room. Seems like it might wind up being more hassle than it's worth. According to the manual, I could use the Surround Back terminals to bi-amp my M60's which would proly have a much better result than just bi-wiring them. I dunno. Gonna make a great Winter project, trying out all of these options. I have one more question for now tho.
    These are the first brand new speakers I've bought in 30 years. How long of a break in period should I expect if I play them for say 8 hours a day? Seems to me the M60's sounded pretty great after the first eight. Best thing I ever had in my living room. Thanks again for the input.

    Underdawg
  • comfortablycurt
    comfortablycurt Posts: 6,745
    edited July 2009
    Personally, I wouldn't waste my time with bi-wiring. The "bi-amp" feature on most AVR's is essentially useless IMO.

    For starters, you aren't actually pushing the speakers with any extra power. In most AVR's, the power for every channel comes from one common power block. Given that, the receiver isn't going to put out twice the amount of power because a given speaker is hooked up to multiple pairs of outputs.

    A more accurate term for an AVR's bi-amping ability, would just be bi-wiring. It separates the signal to the tweeter/mids and the woofers. In theory this creates a cleaner signal.

    In my experience, it doesn't make any improvements. I tried bi-amping/bi-wiring my RTi8's with my Onkyo 606, and I found there to be absolutely no improvements. If anything, the mid-range around the crossover point seemed to be a little bit drier and more withdrawn. That's definitely not an improvement.

    If you've got the extra wire laying around...give it a shot, but don't expect to be absolutely blown away. I think you'd get more of an improvement by just going with a 7.1 setup myself.
    The nirvana inducer-
    APC H10 Power Conditioner
    Marantz UD5005 universal player
    Parasound Halo P5 preamp
    Parasound HCA-1200II power amp
    PolkAudio LSi9's/PolkAudio SDA 2A's/PolkAudio Monitor 7A's
    Audioquest Speaker Cables and IC's
  • JimKellyfan
    JimKellyfan Posts: 696
    edited July 2009
    I have just bought a set of Monitor 60's and a PSW10 sub to hook to my Pioneer VSX-406 5.1. But I use that for music only. The dining room houses the A channel front channel Monitors and the sub. The back enclosed porch is hooked to the B speakers via a Radio Shack switch. Then the wires find themselves in mediocrity with my old Advent satellites and fake sub hooked to switch b ( Radio Shack switch has a,b,c,d ) the a wires hooked to a 50 dollar set of Sony's from Best Buy ( floor model bookshelf ), and outside rock speakers also from Best Buy, hooked to c. The receiver pushes 80W ( A ) front each side, 80W rear ( B ), then center 80W and rear 80W and a sub out, to which I have a Y hooked to a monster cable. The speaker cables front are 14 gauge flat Radio Shacks, and I did make one shorter than the other by about 10 feet. It sounds incredible with the new Polk's. So much so, that I now dislike the remaining speakers. Also to my dismay, I now cannot power both A and B as I tried it, and the Polk's lose their highs and become muffled. I tried this briefly and only at low volume. I made a rule for now with the wife to have either A or B but not both. ( I used to be able to do this, but power requirements were much lower as my Advents took less ). The Polk's sound incredible, but believe I can get more out of them in a few manners. I have considered a few options, but am curious which route to take. Bi-amp and lose B altogether on the porch and outside ? Too, if I bi-amp, I don't believe tone can be adjusted on this stereo, but the level can be adjusted for the center. Then, I do have a Sony 5.1 in the living room I can switch to, that was part of a system the HT-DDW665. This receiver can have levels adjusted, but for tones, I believe only the fronts can be adjusted. So, my question here would be, does bi amping require tones and levels to be adjusted so as to send the correct frequencies when bi-amping ? Or can you just hook speaker A to lows and speaker B to highs ? Too, would I be safe to assume that I could not supply 80W shared to highs and 80W each to lows or vice versa ? The Sony pushes 85W/channel front, and surround 85W/channel with 85W center, but has a wired sub ( not RCA )...But, that is measured using the supplied 6 ohm Sony speakers and would be reduced to 67W/channel with hooking to the 8 ohm Polk's ?.....Little lost at what to do next, I guess. I do have to remove my Advents from the porch, that's a given...I will eventually get Atrium to replace the rock speakers and the wall Polk's RC85i's for the back porch ( 10 x 20 room ).....Last question....Do I need to replace either of these receivers, and to which low cost option can I go to now ??? Thank you all for any help, and let me apologize if I have been to lengthy in description or not long enough....signed, Polk buyer for life, now....
    Onkyo TX-NR636
    Main - polkaudio Monitor 60's
    Center - polkaudio CSI A6
    Sub - polkaudio PSW10
    Sub2 - polkaudio PSW505
    Surrounds - polkaudio Monitor 40 series II
    Front Height - polkaudio Monitor 40's
    Audio Outdoors
    Pioneer VSX 406 - polkaudio Atrium 5
    Shed
    Sony junker str-dn2010 with Sony bookshelf floor models and polkaudio R150's
    Shed 2
    Nakamichi soundbar
  • speakergeek
    speakergeek Posts: 555
    edited July 2009
    I would not waste any time bi-wiring. If you get some mono block amps (one for each binding post) and do a true bi-amping (or even some speakers can be tri-amped) then you will probably notice a difference. In some cases bi wiring may even be detrimental to the sound quality. But running off of an AVR it will not give you any benefit over just running a single standard speaker connection.
  • AudioGenics
    AudioGenics Posts: 2,567
    edited July 2009
    seems to me that bi-wire is just a parallel circuit.
  • JimKellyfan
    JimKellyfan Posts: 696
    edited July 2009
    Thanx
    Onkyo TX-NR636
    Main - polkaudio Monitor 60's
    Center - polkaudio CSI A6
    Sub - polkaudio PSW10
    Sub2 - polkaudio PSW505
    Surrounds - polkaudio Monitor 40 series II
    Front Height - polkaudio Monitor 40's
    Audio Outdoors
    Pioneer VSX 406 - polkaudio Atrium 5
    Shed
    Sony junker str-dn2010 with Sony bookshelf floor models and polkaudio R150's
    Shed 2
    Nakamichi soundbar
  • conceyted
    conceyted Posts: 17
    edited July 2009
    From what I have read, the gains will be very minimal.
  • VXR8
    VXR8 Posts: 291
    edited July 2009
    Depends on the speakers - there is a noticeble difference just bi-wiring my LSi-9s (not bi-amping). Horses for courses I suppose.
    Regards - Gaz from the land of Oz

    Main System
    Denon - AVC-4700H
    Emotiva - XPA-9
    Cambridge Audio - Azur 851C - CXUHD
    Polk Audio - Legend L800 - Legend L400 - Legend L900 - LSiM fx - OWM3
    SVS - PB1000 x 2
    Foxtel - iQ4
    Belkin - Pure AV PF40
    Sony K77A9G

    Front Room System
    PS Audio - Sprout 100
    Cambridge Audio - CXC S2 - CA752BD
    Sony - UBX800 4K BluRay
    Polk Audio - Legend L200
  • danz1906
    danz1906 Posts: 5,144
    edited July 2009
    Bi-wire should open up your speakers some,try it and see if you like it.
    Linn AV5140 fronts
    Linn AV5120 Center
    Linn AV5140 Rears
    M&K MX-70 Sub for Music
    Odyssey Mono-Blocs
    SVS Ultra-13 Gloss Black:D
  • underdawg
    underdawg Posts: 5
    edited July 2009
    ok. Thanks fer the input. Interesting comments. I've gone both ways now, and for my money, while there is a slight improvement with a bi-wired set up, it ain't worth giving up my 7.1 status just yet. Mebe 60 or 80 movies from now, I'll think about it again.
  • danz1906
    danz1906 Posts: 5,144
    edited July 2009
    underdawg wrote: »
    ok. Thanks fer the input. Interesting comments. I've gone both ways now, and for my money, while there is a slight improvement with a bi-wired set up, it ain't worth giving up my 7.1 status just yet. Mebe 60 or 80 movies from now, I'll think about it again.

    Welcome to the Club!
    Sometimes bi-wire makes a Difference and sometimes it doesnt.
    Linn AV5140 fronts
    Linn AV5120 Center
    Linn AV5140 Rears
    M&K MX-70 Sub for Music
    Odyssey Mono-Blocs
    SVS Ultra-13 Gloss Black:D
  • Bernal
    Bernal Posts: 991
    edited July 2009
    underdawg wrote: »
    Hey. First time here. Please be gentle. I finally decided to go ahead and jump into the 21st century and spring for some 7.1 gear. I got a Sony SVR DG1000 amp on ebay fer 3 bills and a pair of Monitor 50 from newegg fer like 180 bucks, found a CS2 Center for cheap, and then I ran across a pair of Monitor 60's and bought them too. ( 260 for the pair ) 60's are up front a course, wif the CS2, the 50's are now rear surrounds with a pair of Yammy NS 6390's set to do bidnis as surround backs.

    (I know. The 50's would be better surround backs but they don't fit there.)

    Yep. I'm just kinda wingin it.

    Here's the thing. I could bi-wire if I wanted to give up my 7.1 status, which I'm pretty freakin proud of at the moment, by using my surround back terminals..

    Before I bought the 60's I tried the 50's both bi-wired and.. mono-wired, and I did hear a difference. Not much to my ear, but there was a difference.

    I'd like to hear what you Polk guys think. When I wanna just listen to some music with my new setup here, how much of the good stuff am I gonna miss out on , cuz I ain't bi-wired.

    I guess I should mention, sometime this Winter I'll be bi-amping. I have a pair of 15 inch Tru-Sonics that I'm gonna add into the mix..

    Any thought would be welcome. I need all the hep I can get.

    Underdawg

    Hi,
    In music: LSI is to hear angels sing.
    The best advice is to maintain balance and do not mix.
    4 Ohms is good. Bi-Wiring: LSI at best..:D:D:D:D:D:D:D





    01) DENON AVR-4308CI: Advanced 7.1 CH/5.1+2 CH/ 3.1+2+2 CH A/V Home Theater /MultiMedia Multi-Source/Zone Receiver with Networking and WiFi/170 watts x 7 channels
    02) SUNFIRE Grand Signature - Bob Carver's
    03) OPPO DV-980H 1080p Up-Converting Universal DVD Player with HDMI and 7.1CH Audio
    04) DENON DVD-2500BTCI: Blu-ray Disc™ DVD/CD Digital Player/Transport (change for a OPPO BDP-83 Blu-ray Disc Player will be available soon)
    05) HITACHI P55T501. 55" HD1080 Plasma HDTV
    06) POLKAUDIO LSiC (Center speaker)
    07) POLKAUDIO LSi15 LEFT (Front speaker)
    08) POLKAUDIO LSi15 RIGHT (Front speaker)
    09) POLKAUDIO LSif/x LEFT (Surround speaker)
    10) POLKAUDIO LSif/x RIGHT (Surround speaker)
    11) VELODYNE OPTIMUN SERIES (High Output Digital EQ SubWoofer 2400W/1200WRMS)
  • uncmike
    uncmike Posts: 29
    edited July 2009
    Are you running all of the lsi speakers just from the denon 4308? have you had any problems with that set up? thanks!
    Fronts L/R: Polk Rti-a9
    Center: Polk CSi-a6
    Surrounds L/R: Polk Rti-a7
    Subs: Velodyne DPS12
    Receiver: Denon AVR 4306
    Source: HTPC tower/360 elite
    Panamax Power Conditioner
    AudioQuest Type 4 Cables
  • Bernal
    Bernal Posts: 991
    edited July 2009
    uncmike wrote: »
    Are you running all of the lsi speakers just from the denon 4308? have you had any problems with that set up? thanks!

    I am using the pre-out (Denon 4308Ci)
    I am using all the speakers with the amplifier Sunfire. I have not had any problems.
    Br


    PS: The Denon does not handle 4 Ohms and LSi are 4 Ω; to a minimum of 300 watts per channel.
  • Willow
    Willow Posts: 11,127
    edited July 2009
    The only thing I noticed when I did was more speaker cable!
    I noticed a bigger improvement when I bought AQ Indigo cables
  • Bernal
    Bernal Posts: 991
    edited July 2009
    Willow wrote: »
    The only thing I noticed when I did was more speaker cable!
    I noticed a bigger improvement when I bought AQ Indigo cables

    The important thing is the speaker cable.
    It is important to specify: Oxygen Free HD Speaker Cables
  • Willow
    Willow Posts: 11,127
    edited July 2009
    Bernal wrote: »
    The important thing is the speaker cable.
    It is important to specify: Oxygen Free HD Speaker Cables


    HD speaker cable? :rolleyes:
  • Willow
    Willow Posts: 11,127
    edited July 2009
    I forgot to mention I had them bi-wired with Kimber 4pr so not cheap cables but not fantastic either
  • Bernal
    Bernal Posts: 991
    edited July 2009
    Willow wrote: »
    I forgot to mention I had them bi-wired with Kimber 4pr so not cheap cables but not fantastic either

    The cable Kimber 4PR not be specified: "Oxygen Free": (Specifications for C10100 OFE, C11000 ETP and C10200 OF. Oxygen-Free will have enhanced conductivity or other electrical properties that are significantly advantageous to low frequency (audio) signal transmission ).

    http://www.kimber.com/Products/LoudSpeakerCables/4PR/4PR_Spec.aspx

    In any case what matters is how they hear. On the subject there is great debate. In my case works as a great improvement in the sonic.;)