Don't let F-1 see this...

nooshinjohn
nooshinjohn Posts: 25,380
edited July 2009 in The Clubhouse
as I don't want Jesse getting a big head:p, BUT his ideas on refinishing wood actually WORK!:eek:
I have been reworking the end caps on my TL's for the better part of the day now, and his method for removing the dark stains(water marks) from the wood have helped immeasurably. The wood suffered almost no damage in the process and is drinking up the new rubbed oil finish beautifully. They are looking like new, and I could not be happier with the results:cool:

Jesse, my hat is off to you sir. You have saved me at least a hundred bucks in replacement costs by providing the help needed to rework these things with a little bit of work and some patience... THANKS!;)


John
The Gear... Carver "Statement" Mono-blocks, Mcintosh C2300 Arcam AVR20, Oppo UDP-203 4K Blu-ray player, Sony XBR70x850B 4k, Polk Audio Legend L800 with height modules, L400 Center Channel Polk audio AB800 "in-wall" surrounds. Marantz MM7025 stereo amp. Simaudio Moon 680d DSD

“When once a Republic is corrupted, there is no possibility of remedying any of the growing evils but by removing the corruption and restoring its lost principles; every other correction is either useless or a new evil.”— Thomas Jefferson
Post edited by nooshinjohn on

Comments

  • dragon1952
    dragon1952 Posts: 4,899
    edited July 2009
    This thread is useless without pictures :)
    2 channel - Willsenton R8 tube integrated, Holo Audio Spring 3 KTE DAC, audio optimized NUC7i5, Windows 10 Pro/JRiver MC29/Fidelizer Plus 8.7 w/LPS and external SSD drive, PS Audio PerfectWave P3 regenerator, KEF R3 speakers, Rythmik F12SE subwoofer, Audioquest Diamond USB cable, Gabriel Gold IC's, Morrow Audio SP5 speaker cables. Computer - Windows 10/JRiver, Schiit Magni 3+/Modi 3+, Fostex PMO.4n monitors, Sennheiser HD600 headphones
  • ShinAce
    ShinAce Posts: 1,194
    edited July 2009
    pics plz, before and after, with at least 3 different angles
  • Face
    Face Posts: 14,340
    edited July 2009
    He's never lead me wrong.
    "He who fights with monsters should look to it that he himself does not become a monster. And when you gaze long into an abyss the abyss also gazes into you." Friedrich Nietzsche
  • george daniel
    george daniel Posts: 12,096
    edited July 2009
    Face wrote: »
    He's never lead me wrong.

    +1 same here.
    JC approves....he told me so. (F-1 nut)
  • nooshinjohn
    nooshinjohn Posts: 25,380
    edited July 2009
    I took no before pics, but trust me... they looked like someone left Budweiser bottles on them for a month. I will post some after shots when I get a chance. right now I am redoing the wood on the sides. The sun had faded them out pretty bad. The grill cloth appears to be original on them and is in great shape.
    The Gear... Carver "Statement" Mono-blocks, Mcintosh C2300 Arcam AVR20, Oppo UDP-203 4K Blu-ray player, Sony XBR70x850B 4k, Polk Audio Legend L800 with height modules, L400 Center Channel Polk audio AB800 "in-wall" surrounds. Marantz MM7025 stereo amp. Simaudio Moon 680d DSD

    “When once a Republic is corrupted, there is no possibility of remedying any of the growing evils but by removing the corruption and restoring its lost principles; every other correction is either useless or a new evil.”— Thomas Jefferson
  • obieone
    obieone Posts: 5,077
    edited July 2009
    Just out of curiosity, care to enlighten us as to WHAT you used, to get rid of the water stains?
    A long, LONG time ago I did a short apprenticeship for an antique restorer, and the only thing, back then, that would get those stains out was 'oxylic acid'.
    I refuse to argue with idiots, because people can't tell the DIFFERENCE!
  • nooshinjohn
    nooshinjohn Posts: 25,380
    edited July 2009
    F1nut wrote: »
    For future reference, the black ring or any black mark like that on wood can be easily removed without sanding it out, which won't work anyway. The black color comes from a reaction with the tannin (Tannic acid) in the wood usually caused by water or some other liquid. You start by stripping the finish off the wood, clean off the stripper residue with paint thinner, let dry and then apply generous amounts of Oxalic acid mixed with water. After it dries, you clean off the Oxalic acid residue by wiping with a clean wet cloth until all residue is gone. Be careful not to breath the fine white power as it will cause a massive sneezing fit. If one application doesn't do the trick, a second one will. Let the piece dry for a day or two, then lightly scuff sand with 220 grit serrated sandpaper to knock off the raised grain. Apply color and finish, rub out and you're done.

    A few reasons why veneer is a better choice than solid wood. With veneer there won't be any end grain exposed, the left and right edges of those tops show end grain. With veneer you can book match the grain for the tops, so that they look the same. It's very hard to do that with solid wood. MDF veneered pieces will not warp, crack or check like solid wood. Solid wood never stops moving, up to a 1/4" annually. That is to say, in dry months the wood shrinks, in times of high humidity the wood swells. Veneered MDF is inert, solid wood resonates and each piece will resonate differently.

    As I said, for future reference.....


    This is what I followed to get the stains out... Worked like a charm!

    Thanks again F1
    The Gear... Carver "Statement" Mono-blocks, Mcintosh C2300 Arcam AVR20, Oppo UDP-203 4K Blu-ray player, Sony XBR70x850B 4k, Polk Audio Legend L800 with height modules, L400 Center Channel Polk audio AB800 "in-wall" surrounds. Marantz MM7025 stereo amp. Simaudio Moon 680d DSD

    “When once a Republic is corrupted, there is no possibility of remedying any of the growing evils but by removing the corruption and restoring its lost principles; every other correction is either useless or a new evil.”— Thomas Jefferson
  • nooshinjohn
    nooshinjohn Posts: 25,380
    edited July 2009
    here are some pics of the end caps... They look like they just came out of the factory.:)
    The Gear... Carver "Statement" Mono-blocks, Mcintosh C2300 Arcam AVR20, Oppo UDP-203 4K Blu-ray player, Sony XBR70x850B 4k, Polk Audio Legend L800 with height modules, L400 Center Channel Polk audio AB800 "in-wall" surrounds. Marantz MM7025 stereo amp. Simaudio Moon 680d DSD

    “When once a Republic is corrupted, there is no possibility of remedying any of the growing evils but by removing the corruption and restoring its lost principles; every other correction is either useless or a new evil.”— Thomas Jefferson
  • obieone
    obieone Posts: 5,077
    edited July 2009
    They came out real nice.
    The reason for my question was, 25 years ago, oxalic acid was an industrial chemical ONLY. The guy I worked for, made a big deal out of the cost, and ability to obtain it?!
    I refuse to argue with idiots, because people can't tell the DIFFERENCE!
  • nooshinjohn
    nooshinjohn Posts: 25,380
    edited July 2009
    I picked a bit up at the woodshop here in town. They were kind enough to give me enough to get the job done.
    The Gear... Carver "Statement" Mono-blocks, Mcintosh C2300 Arcam AVR20, Oppo UDP-203 4K Blu-ray player, Sony XBR70x850B 4k, Polk Audio Legend L800 with height modules, L400 Center Channel Polk audio AB800 "in-wall" surrounds. Marantz MM7025 stereo amp. Simaudio Moon 680d DSD

    “When once a Republic is corrupted, there is no possibility of remedying any of the growing evils but by removing the corruption and restoring its lost principles; every other correction is either useless or a new evil.”— Thomas Jefferson
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,460
    edited July 2009
    Looking good!

    25 years ago, oxalic acid was an industrial chemical ONLY. The guy I worked for, made a big deal out of the cost, and ability to obtain it?!

    That's a new one to me. There really would be no reason for it to be classified as an industrial chemical. Although it's called an acid, it can't burn you. In all my years, I've never had a problem getting it and it's always been cheap. That said, I do have some other acids that are industrial chemicals only, are very hard to get and are not cheap.

    I've seen Oxalic acid (white powder) sold in hardware stores labeled as "wood bleach", not the liquid two part wood bleach, and comes in a plastic tub. Otherwise, it comes in a cardboard box labeled Pure Oxalic Acid and is available from wood working stores and finishing suppliers. Oxalic acid is also an ingredient, probably the main one, in deck cleaners.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • snow
    snow Posts: 4,337
    edited July 2009
    I used a product once on cedar siding that was getting gray and nasty looking it was some sort of an acid not sure of the name now, Bio Wash maybe? you mixed it with water sprayed it on then wire brushed the crap out of the siding then rinsed it off, then you applied a blonding agent to it, then used a stain. I believe it was made from ground up apricot pits believe it or not. I know one thing you shouldndt leave this stuff on your skin for long, I made the mistake of getting a little bit down one of my boots and it was burning but I didnt want to climb down off the ladder to clean it out until I was finished in that area, big mistake by the time I did it had burned a hole about the size of a quarter about an 1/8 deep into the top of my foot.

    Yes it was Bio wash heres a link. http://store.dunnlum.com/builderwire20/common/store/itemdetails.aspx?categoryid=359&itemid=1667


    REGARDS SNOW
    Well, I just pulled off the impossible by doing a double-blind comparison all by myself, purely by virtue of the fact that I completely and stupidly forgot what I did last. I guess that getting old does have its advantages after all :D
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,460
    edited July 2009
    I believe it was made from ground up apricot pits believe it or not.

    Interesting!
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • messiah
    messiah Posts: 1,790
    edited July 2009
    here are some pics of the end caps... They look like they just came out of the factory.:)

    Nice work bro. Looks awesome!!!
    "They who can give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary safety, deserve neither liberty nor safety."
    Benjamin Franklin, February 17th, 1775.

    "The day that I have to give up my constitutional rights AND let some dude rub my junk...well, let's just say that it's gonna be a real bad day for the dude trying to rub my junk!!"
    messiah, November 23rd, 2010
  • nooshinjohn
    nooshinjohn Posts: 25,380
    edited July 2009
    thanks man. I love looking at these as much as listening to them.
    The Gear... Carver "Statement" Mono-blocks, Mcintosh C2300 Arcam AVR20, Oppo UDP-203 4K Blu-ray player, Sony XBR70x850B 4k, Polk Audio Legend L800 with height modules, L400 Center Channel Polk audio AB800 "in-wall" surrounds. Marantz MM7025 stereo amp. Simaudio Moon 680d DSD

    “When once a Republic is corrupted, there is no possibility of remedying any of the growing evils but by removing the corruption and restoring its lost principles; every other correction is either useless or a new evil.”— Thomas Jefferson