speaker purchase advice,please...

eyespy18
eyespy18 Posts: 3
edited July 2009 in Car Audio & Electronics
I'm a new member-very cool forum & thanks for the help I got from reading...

my deal is: I've got a 93 Ford Aerostar,an alpine CDA-105 head and questions on speaker choices.The mid-panels take 6x9's, so I was thinking about the new mmc691's (or the previous 690's). i also own a mm465 set. should I get the 6x9's or make a panel and put in the 465's? (oddly,Polk fit guide doesn't offer the 691's-or anything, for the mid panels!).I'll probably drop some Polk
3 1/2" replacements in the dash holes.

In addition, I'm also not sure about what to do abt a sub though. I really dont have the space in the back (carry too much junk!) for a sub (and I'm a baby boomer-not a heavy metal boomer!) so I was hoping to get the best bang I could from the mid panel set-up. There are 4" factory spkrs in the tail gate now-I could replace them with?????.I listen to a lot of blues,jazz,some hip-hop,acid jazz...)

so my main question is abt the mid panel speaker setup & these tail gate spkrs (anybody make 4" subs for a little xtra punch?)

Also, would a two channel amp drive all this or do I "need" a four channel? (or two 2's?) I'm trying to spend as little as possible (natch) and get the best bang out of a (not quite0but close) minimal set-up

Any advice is much appreciated!
Post edited by eyespy18 on

Comments

  • Kinetic
    Kinetic Posts: 437
    edited July 2009
    691 should have a notable better bass
    Z
    /////Alpine CDA-9887 HU
    /////Alpine KTX-1000EQ
    /////Alpine PDX-4.150
    /////Alpine PDX-1.1000
    Polk Audio SR 6500
    Polk Audio SR 124 DVC
    KnuKonceptz MKS Kable

    G35
    /////Alpine CDA-9887 HU
    /////Alpine KTX-1000EQ
    /////Alpine PDX-4.150
    /////Alpine PDX-1.1000
    /////Alpine SPX 17PRO
    /////Alpine SWX 1243D
    KnuKonceptz MKS Kable
  • eyespy18
    eyespy18 Posts: 3
    edited July 2009
    thanks for the info-guess I'll throw 'em in,see how it sounds and go from there. any thoughts on the necessity (or quality) for something like a bazooka 6'1/2" amped bass tube?-I'd have room for that.....
  • Kinetic
    Kinetic Posts: 437
    edited July 2009
    i think that the bazooka sounds awful.. you have polk quality in the front, dont waste it with bad speakers in the back..


    first of all, if you can put the MMC 6500 or 6501 in the front (the woofers on the door panels, and the tweeters on the dash board) the 2 way components, have a better sound than the 6x9, so maybe you have to make some adaptations, but those are worth it.


    and the MMC 690 or 691 in the back..

    or you can put 2 JL 6" subwoofers (6W3V3) or maybe a shallow sobwoofer in the floor of the back seats like the JL (13TW5)



    on the amps? well I would "bi-amp" the components in the front, with a 4 channel, and use a mono amp for the subs, that would be the best Sound quality, if not buy a big 4 chan amp wich can full fill the subwoofers
    Z
    /////Alpine CDA-9887 HU
    /////Alpine KTX-1000EQ
    /////Alpine PDX-4.150
    /////Alpine PDX-1.1000
    Polk Audio SR 6500
    Polk Audio SR 124 DVC
    KnuKonceptz MKS Kable

    G35
    /////Alpine CDA-9887 HU
    /////Alpine KTX-1000EQ
    /////Alpine PDX-4.150
    /////Alpine PDX-1.1000
    /////Alpine SPX 17PRO
    /////Alpine SWX 1243D
    KnuKonceptz MKS Kable
  • eyespy18
    eyespy18 Posts: 3
    edited July 2009
    Hey Kinetic-thanks for your advice-hope youy don't mind if I run this past you.

    Unfortunately,there's NO room in my front doors for components (or coax'),so I'm going to have to stick to 3 1/2's in the top deck of the dash.not too many choices:Polk db 351's /JL c2 350x or Boston s35's-any opinion? (I tend to listen to 60-70% of sound to the rear...)

    as for the middle of the van (side walls) there's a 6x9 spot-should I stick with the mm691's or make a mounting board where I can mount my Polk MM465 components?

    The rear tail gate has holes for 4" speakers & I can get a set of Boston 4" subs! (no rear seats to hide subs)
    I know it won't kick **** like my old 12" polk sub,but should be better than nothing?

    last: I don't know what the big difference is,but I can get an Alpine MRP306 4 channel (75w x 4) or an MRV-F340 4 channel (55w x 4) for abt the same $$.I know the mrv is a v12 mosfet..-is that enough of an uprade to the mrp or should I go for the extra 20w of power? (they're abt the only amps I have room for)

    this all make sense? thanks again for your perspective....
  • Kinetic
    Kinetic Posts: 437
    edited July 2009
    ok first advice.
    keep the front stage, the front stage is the more natural sound, lika a concert, any SQL Car, have a good sound stage, (no speakers in the back)

    but also, if you dont have a place to put some comps, well.. put them in the back, i think its better to loose the front stage, than loose the sound..


    second thing
    try to keep one brand, and one product line ( series )

    for example in my very own personal opinion, JL is too pricee, for the sound quality, but it sound nice..

    the bostons, are nice speakers, but not in that series.. (S35)

    Polks are the good in all that they do but the Dbs are not impressive, as the MM or the blowminded SR´s..

    ( polk or boston would be a good decition, try to listen and compare yourself )


    third
    about the 6x9 vs Comps:

    the comps would have a better definition but having in the back i dont know if its worth it.

    the 6x9 are going to have better bass, and maybe you will need that bass, since you dont have any in the front.


    fourth
    ok the bostons can fit there, but, are you shure about the subwoofer enclosure? remember the importance of a good enclosure..

    also JL have some little ones, and the JL subs sounds hard, although i would prefer the bostons, or a polk MM 10" (you can put it facing up)


    fifth
    tha amps, well buy the most power you can afford..

    for example, i have now a 300Wx2 amp for a pair of 125w polks SR

    i just adjust the gains at the middle of they where supposed to be, so i have the 125W, of clean power, this means, that i dont have distortion, so i can put the HU all the way up in volume, and i donde hurt the speakers, so it is loud and clear..

    try to do the same, buy the 75W for example, and take off a little gain of it where supposed to be so you can have a cleanner sound..

    Alpine is a good option, try the Alpine PDX amps, those are smaller, and 150Wx4


    sixth
    if you want to mix well all the speakers, and have a nice definition and tone, i would buy the Alpine´s Imprint computer, it is awesome, i have it for my CDA-9887, but you can buy the model for the OEM or not "Alpine imprint ready" HU..

    if you buy it tell me, so i can give you all the tips to run it, but it is extraordinary
    Z
    /////Alpine CDA-9887 HU
    /////Alpine KTX-1000EQ
    /////Alpine PDX-4.150
    /////Alpine PDX-1.1000
    Polk Audio SR 6500
    Polk Audio SR 124 DVC
    KnuKonceptz MKS Kable

    G35
    /////Alpine CDA-9887 HU
    /////Alpine KTX-1000EQ
    /////Alpine PDX-4.150
    /////Alpine PDX-1.1000
    /////Alpine SPX 17PRO
    /////Alpine SWX 1243D
    KnuKonceptz MKS Kable
  • Kinetic
    Kinetic Posts: 437
    edited July 2009
    sorry for my english its not my native lenguage
    Z
    /////Alpine CDA-9887 HU
    /////Alpine KTX-1000EQ
    /////Alpine PDX-4.150
    /////Alpine PDX-1.1000
    Polk Audio SR 6500
    Polk Audio SR 124 DVC
    KnuKonceptz MKS Kable

    G35
    /////Alpine CDA-9887 HU
    /////Alpine KTX-1000EQ
    /////Alpine PDX-4.150
    /////Alpine PDX-1.1000
    /////Alpine SPX 17PRO
    /////Alpine SWX 1243D
    KnuKonceptz MKS Kable