Fuse holder
ANWKLO
Posts: 173
The fuse holder of my Monitor 5 is rusty. I tried to clean it with sandpaper, but it is not very satisfactory. Are there any replacements for the fuse holder please?
Post edited by ANWKLO on
Comments
-
The fuse holder of my Monitor 5 is rusty. I tried to clean it with sandpaper, but it is not very satisfactory. Are there any replacements for the fuse holder please?
Before you toss it, try a little steel wool and some Bartender's Friend.
? Harmon Kardon AVR 55 (dead; replacing with Onkyo TX NR-616)
? Polk RTA 11TL's (FR and FL)
? Polk TSi200's (RR and RL)
? Polk CS10 (Center)
? Polk PSW-350
? Grado SR-60i Headphones
? Fii0 E5 headphone amp
? iPod touch (8 gig)
? iPod Classic (80 gig)
? Mac Mini (as media server)
? xbox 360 -
emery cloth is good too.
-
Help! One of the legs of fuse holder is broken when I tried to widen it for easy cleaning. It is fixed with a bare wire temporarily. Can it be fixed with soldering? Will the fuse bear with the heat How clusmy I am:(
-
That is most definitely replacement time. Rust means copper coated steel, a cheap fuse holder. Aluminum is slightly better, but both are prone to galvanic reactions as the copper (including the connecting wire) does not "get along" with many metals over time time and create corrosion. Often this situation is caused by the fuse's metal itself.
To illustrate, Duracell markets copper galvanic properties by mating copper with even more dissimilar metals in their batteries (the galvanic differences creates the battery's voltage), by saying their battery is the "copper top" battery.
I do not stay up with quality parts sources (please help here anyone), but can usually find copper connectors of any sort along the lines of fuse holders when sufficiently motivated - like rescuing a beloved failed piece of equipment. Pure copper or brass connectors are more pricer on a per unit basis, but for a critical app like keeping your Monitor alive, etc, they are worth the extra few bucks as a personal repair expense.
(When you expense, like a 100,000 units, etc then the extra 5 dollars or so really matter - especially if you did not expect the product to be around after 10 or more years).
To summarize, find a replacement copper fuse holder. Buy two (since the other speaker's fuse holder is probably just a corroded). Install them well and this problem will never, ever, happen again.
Hillbilly -
perhaps it is an opportunity to upgrade the crossover
which is easily removed.
there are postings of modification and upgrades to the Monitor 5
crossover. -
Hillbilly,
Thank you for your advice. I am intended to replace the fuse holder in my 1st post. Do you think this fuse holder is suitable
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=071-500 -
joseph.v.chen wrote: »perhaps it is an opportunity to upgrade the crossover
which is easily removed.
there are postings of modification and upgrades to the Monitor 5
crossover.
I have considered upgrading the x-over before, but do not have much confident due to my bad soldering. Yes, there are postings of modification and upgrades to the Monitor 5 crossover. However, I do not notice the replacement of fuse holder. Anyone has experience please? -
IIRC, the fuse holder is riveted onto the terminal cup so I'm not sure how easy it is to replace it where it sits.
Do you run these at their limit? If not, why not just bypass the fuse holder by soldering a wire across the terminals internally. If you run them loud and close to clipping on a regular basis then you probably shouldn;t bypass. The next time I have my x-overs out on mine I'm bypassing them as I don;t listen at the limit in my office.
I have an M5 x-over open right in front of me and it's not going to be simple because of the large amount of glue. But you'll notice (2) thick white wires once you remove the PCB from the stand offs coming thru the terminal cup from the fuse holder. One thick white wire comes out of the gloopy glue and attaches to the PCB. The other thick white wire comes out of the gloopy glue and attaches to the positive speaker terminal in the cup. I would snip these wires about half way up and either solder them together and then wrap with electrical tape or better yet use shrink tubing after connecting them together. That bypasses the fuse holder and keeps all connections intact.
The fuse holder is in fact riveted in place, so not sure how you'd get that out. Probably with a drill, but not sure how you'd attach the new aftermarket fuse holders and not sure you won't damage something using a drill to drill the rivet.
Good luck
H9"Appreciation of audio is a completely subjective human experience. Measurements can provide a measure of insight, but are no substitute for human judgment. Why are we looking to reduce a subjective experience to objective criteria anyway? The subtleties of music and audio reproduction are for those who appreciate it. Differentiation by numbers is for those who do not".--Nelson Pass Pass Labs XA25 | EE Avant Pre | EE Mini Max Supreme DAC | MIT Shotgun S1 | Pangea AC14SE MKII | Legend L600 | BlueSound Node 3 - Tubes add soul! -
Hi Heiney,
It seems that the replacement of fuse holder is harder than I expected. I may solder the fuse and the fuse holder because I may run them loud when watching movies. Perhaps it is the simplest way to fix the problem. The picture below is taken by me in early June;)
-
Hi Heiney,
It seems that the replacement of fuse holder is harder than I expected. I may solder the fuse and the fuse holder because I may run them loud when watching movies. Perhaps it is the simplest way to fix the problem. The picture below is taken by me in early June;)
My pair of x-overs don't have the resistor and diode??? connected like in your photo and I have tons more glue. You can still bypass the fuse holder, just make sure you don't "orphan" any key connections. There should be some "point" where you can splice right and left wires coming from the fuse holder together w/o compromising the intergity of the rest of the circuit.
H9"Appreciation of audio is a completely subjective human experience. Measurements can provide a measure of insight, but are no substitute for human judgment. Why are we looking to reduce a subjective experience to objective criteria anyway? The subtleties of music and audio reproduction are for those who appreciate it. Differentiation by numbers is for those who do not".--Nelson Pass Pass Labs XA25 | EE Avant Pre | EE Mini Max Supreme DAC | MIT Shotgun S1 | Pangea AC14SE MKII | Legend L600 | BlueSound Node 3 - Tubes add soul! -
Which model 5's? Are they 5jr's or 5jr+'s? I've seen that type of x-over in 5jr's before.
H9"Appreciation of audio is a completely subjective human experience. Measurements can provide a measure of insight, but are no substitute for human judgment. Why are we looking to reduce a subjective experience to objective criteria anyway? The subtleties of music and audio reproduction are for those who appreciate it. Differentiation by numbers is for those who do not".--Nelson Pass Pass Labs XA25 | EE Avant Pre | EE Mini Max Supreme DAC | MIT Shotgun S1 | Pangea AC14SE MKII | Legend L600 | BlueSound Node 3 - Tubes add soul! -
Which model 5's? Are they 5jr's or 5jr+'s? I've seen that type of x-over in 5jr's before.
H9
Should be 5A:)