Which OBD Engine Code Reader / Scanner To Buy?

megasat16

My old automobile (not oldsmobile) is giving me problem with check engine light coming on and off at will.

I've decided to buy an OBD code reader but not really sure which one is good.

I am looking to troubleshoot 1990 Toyota and 1997 Toyota.

Any recommendation on reasonable cheap and good OBD code reader?

Jstas

For OBD, the Sun reader you can get at Pep Boys will work fine. But not many out there read OBD codes as easily as you would OBDII and that has alot to do with things like non-standard access ports and such.

I have an Autoxray that I picked up used. Works like a champ on my OBD II vehicles. Never tried it on OBD. But even at $250-$300 new for the model without all the bells and whistles, it's a good buy and will pay for itself within the first few times you use it.

Actually, now that I look at it, I don't think Sun makes it anymore. Actron has the exact same model: http://www.autorepairmanuals.biz/site/573683/product/CP9025

Here is the Autoxray: http://www.autoxray.com/

nooshinjohn

I have one already and find that even though it will give you the correct codes and what they mean, they are useless for being able to tell you what part/parts need to be replaced. On vehicles of this age the most common stuff will be gas caps, o2 sensors, and mass airflow sensors. I would clean the mass airflow sensor with some cleaner designed specifically for it firstand see if that resolves the trouble. If that does not work, I would take it to the dealer and let them diagnose that lightand if you feel so inclined get the parts they recommend and fix it yourself. About the only thing my OBDII is good for is clearing codes.

Jstas

nooshinjohn wrote: »

I have one already and find that even though it will give you the correct codes and what they mean, they are useless for being able to tell you what part/parts need to be replaced. On vehicles of this age the most common stuff will be gas caps, o2 sensors, and mass airflow sensors. I would clean the mass airflow sensor with some cleaner designed specifically for it firstand see if that resolves the trouble. If that does not work, I would take it to the dealer and let them diagnose that lightand if you feel so inclined get the parts they recommend and fix it yourself. About the only thing my OBDII is good for is clearing codes.

Whatever.


Don't listen to this joker. If you've done work on a car before, you can handle what most stuff that comes up needs for it to be repaired.

The code reader is invaluable. What you can do is use the code reader to find the code, find out what the code means and then, get yourself a service manual that gives you the steps on what to do to fix it. Chilton's, Haynes, whatever. Even the manufacturer one if you want to drop that kind of coin. You probably don't but if you do, I will dig up the link for you.

My best option is to go here: http://www.alldatadiy.com/ and get the subscription for your car. It's fairly cheap, about $30 or less. It gets you a professional level service manual that you can access online, print procedures out and just peruse. If you go in to many modern mechanics shops, most of them are running ALLDATA but at a professional license level including more than one make with a local repository of data. You have two Toyotas, you can probably get both sets of data for less than $50. That subscription also gets you every TSB, every service procedure change from Toyota and every recall notice. It should also get you a help line for when you REALLY get stuck or screw something up. EXTREMELY valuable!

I have an ALLDATAdiy subscription for myself and my Autoxray has already saved me about $800 in repair costs for two different vehicles 'cause I was able to diagnose and repair problems with those cars my self for 1/3rd what I would have paid at the dealer.

disneyjoe7

What is the Autoxray doing reading codes and displaying error in English? I would like to get a scanner which would give my the sensors actual reading level, what the computer sees.

Jstas

disneyjoe7 wrote: »

What is the Autoxray doing reading codes and displaying error in English? I would like to get a scanner which would give my the sensors actual reading level, what the computer sees.

It displays codes and allows me to reset codes. For $300 you aren't going to get much more. But I have software that allows me to look up codes and the ALLDATA stuff I mentioned above gives you codes also. So all I need is the number.

If you want a full diagnostic work up, you're going to need a professional level set up. There are several of them. They will run you between $1200 for a basic set up and some computer software (add at least another $500 to that for a laptop that is not included) all the way up to $9,000 for some of the fancier ones from guys like Snap-On and Matco and stuff. They can be had with laptops that push the price past $10K.

nooshinjohn

Jstas wrote: »

Whatever.
Don't listen to this joker. If you've done work on a car before, you can handle what most stuff that comes up needs for it to be repaired.

You probably have a more advanced scanner than mine Jstas. My comments were based upon the experience I have had with my 125.00 scanner. I also do not have the Alldata access you do. The information I provided about what may be wrong with the check engine light however is always a good place to start, as 95% of the time they are the cause of the light coming on.

disneyjoe7

It was most likely the Snap-on tool I played with once. Very nice, but all the others just give you the code no biggie for me as any AutoZone can give that too me. The bigger problem is the code doesn't tell you very much, as I have a Toyota P141 left bank lean code which most likely a MAF sensor. I cleaned this thing twice now but the code keeps coming back, now I know MAF, O2 sensor have an pulse output cycle with them. Having a cycle range but they can fail so they are outside of that window range. The dealer whom look at it once told me the same thing the MAF is bad, I sure they would replace it first over cleaning it. So I cleaned it again, but I think I need to bite the bullet, and buy it.

megasat16

Thanks Jstas and appreciates the help! I usually take my cars to the dealer and repairshop to get it fixed. But lately, things have changed since the economy downturns begins. The shops are now messing with the good parts and saying this needs to be fixed, that needs to be replaced and so on...I usually let them have their way and pays the bill but I found the new parts replaced 3 months later is faulty again. They would replace the faulty parts under warranty but started looking for other reasons to charge me. I am blind without having an OBD reader.

I can do some basic repair but I didn't have a lot of tools before. I am now investing in all I need to fix myself. All I need now is a good OBD reader and it comes in very handy and pays for itself in less than one trip to the repair shop.

I looked at the autoxray and others you suggested. Thanks for pointing out Alldatadiy too. I am sure I need it and $30/yr is less than the cost of an oil change.

I am looking at Amazon found a few OBD scanners under $150 range but I am interested in the one below.

http://www.amazon.com/Actron-CP9145-AutoScanner-Diagnostic-Capability/dp/B00020BM2S/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1245603952&sr=8-8

This is another one I found on the web with the same capability as the Actron. But this is OBDII only.

http://www.autoditto.com/obd-ii-scanners/pro-obdii-scanner.html

I think I'll buy a separate OBDI reader separately.

megasat16

nooshinjohn wrote: »

I have one already and find that even though it will give you the correct codes and what they mean, they are useless for being able to tell you what part/parts need to be replaced. On vehicles of this age the most common stuff will be gas caps, o2 sensors, and mass airflow sensors. I would clean the mass airflow sensor with some cleaner designed specifically for it firstand see if that resolves the trouble. If that does not work, I would take it to the dealer and let them diagnose that lightand if you feel so inclined get the parts they recommend and fix it yourself. About the only thing my OBDII is good for is clearing codes.

Thanks for the info, John! But I gave up on the dealer and repair shops. Since the economic downturns, they have fewer vehicles to fix and in order to make up, they look for more ways to charge from fewer customer and looking more ways to make you come back. And these guys are ASE certified.

I took my vehicle for repair last time and spent $200 for nothing and it ended up worse (replaced O2 sensor but damaged the more expensive catalytic converter and now it's making clanking noise). It's time I have to take things to my own hands and start fixing myself and let the crowns at the repair shop a break from messing with my cars and ripping me off.

Jstas

disneyjoe7 wrote: »

It was most likely the Snap-on tool I played with once. Very nice, but all the others just give you the code no biggie for me as any AutoZone can give that too me. The bigger problem is the code doesn't tell you very much, as I have a Toyota P141 left bank lean code which most likely a MAF sensor. I cleaned this thing twice now but the code keeps coming back, now I know MAF, O2 sensor have an pulse output cycle with them. Having a cycle range but they can fail so they are outside of that window range. The dealer whom look at it once told me the same thing the MAF is bad, I sure they would replace it first over cleaning it. So I cleaned it again, but I think I need to bite the bullet, and buy it.

I've found that cleaning MAF's doesn't work. It has to be done in a specific way with a specific cleaner and something to clean it with. Even still, they are quite delicate. But if a MAF is getting chronically dirty, you might have an issue elsewhere that is causing the problem. One thing I've seen alot is over-oiled reusable air filters.

Also, the code doesn't tell you much which is why you have to look it up. In a book, online or in some piece of diagnostic software, it doesn't mean much without the lookup. But, if you have a sensor with a range of operation, that voltage range is usually part of the description and you can easily get that through use of a multi-meter across leads.

As far as AutoZone, yeah, they can read codes but alot of good AutoZone does if the car won't start.

nooshinjohn

I got my obdII from(insert drum-roll here please) AUTOZONE!

disneyjoe7

Jstas wrote: »

I've found that cleaning MAF's doesn't work. It has to be done in a specific way with a specific cleaner and something to clean it with. Even still, they are quite delicate. But if a MAF is getting chronically dirty, you might have an issue elsewhere that is causing the problem. One thing I've seen alot is over-oiled reusable air filters.

Also, the code doesn't tell you much which is why you have to look it up. In a book, online or in some piece of diagnostic software, it doesn't mean much without the lookup. But, if you have a sensor with a range of operation, that voltage range is usually part of the description and you can easily get that through use of a multi-meter across leads.

As far as AutoZone, yeah, they can read codes but alot of good AutoZone does if the car won't start.

Please tell me, as I done. There's nothing short of buying a new one in my mind. I tried Blue Shower II electronics cleaner, then CRC electronic cleaner.

This video about 2:16 states that is the sensor to clean, but I think he's pointing to a temp sensor in the maf sensor.

<object width="400" height="225"><param name="allowfullscreen" value="true" /><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always" /><param name="movie" value="http://vimeo.com/moogaloop.swf?clip_id=2634971&server=vimeo.com&show_title=1&show_byline=1&show_portrait=1&color=00adef&fullscreen=1&quot; /><embed src="http://vimeo.com/moogaloop.swf?clip_id=2634971&server=vimeo.com&show_title=1&show_byline=1&show_portrait=1&color=00adef&fullscreen=1&quot; type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowfullscreen="true" allowscriptaccess="always" width="400" height="225"></embed></object><p><a href="https://player.vimeo.com/video/2634971 Clean Mass Air Flow Sensor</a> from <a href="http://vimeo.com/user547255">Hula Betty</a> on <a href="http://vimeo.com">Vimeo</a>.</p&gt;

This picture shows something different and what I tried cleaning at least its clean.

joeparaski

Do-it-yourselfers need to be careful with reading codes. The fix is not necessarily the replacement of the part the code is pointing to. For example, you may get a code telling you that the O2 sensor is faulty, when in fact it may be perfectly fine. It could be a bad spark plug...the fuel doesn't burn properly, and the check engine light comes on. You'd think that you would get a misfire code, but not always.

One specific problem may set off 2,3,4 or even more codes.

Do the basics first. Make sure the plugs, distributor cap, rotor, wires (if any) are all in good shape. If not, replace them, erase the codes, run the car until the check light comes on again. Then read the codes.

Oh, and check things like your gas cap (if it's not on right, it could set a code) and air filter. The MAF could have spider webs or dirt on the filament. The air duct may have a crack in it. Check various connectors for signs of corrosion on the terminals and make sure they are tight. Clean those battery terminals, you'd be surprised at the weird things a bad ground will do.

I am not the tech guy but I work with these guys all day long. I see how they diagnose the problems and the steps they take to resolve them. And these guys will never replace a part that doesn't need to be replaced.

I've mentioned this before.....honesty in a shop starts with the guy at the counter writing up your work order.

Joe

sucks2beme

I've got a basic tester. Yes, the codes can be misleading.
But coupled with an internet search by code/car model it
will take you to the right problem. I just saw a Cornwell
tester for $100 at a pawn shop that does a lot of the advanced
stuff. I've been thinking about getting it. It gets tougher every
year to do DIY.