Speakers
eliminator1970
Posts: 77
Post edited by eliminator1970 on
Comments
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RTA 12's. The hats are crushed, though. I'd offer $50Ludicrous gibs!
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I offerred him $50.00 and he accepted. Hope to pick up this weekend. I have a set of RTA 12B and !2Cs so depending on what shape these are in I might just keep in the basement for parts.
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Just thought I should post my gear. It is cool seeing what other people are running.
2 Channel
Hafler DH-110 Preamp
Hafler DH-500 Amplifier
Teac T-R670 Tuner
Denon Dc-27 CD Player
Polk RTA-12B Speakers
HT
Sony STR G-3 Receiver
Polk SDA 2B Studio Version Black Speakers
Realistic Optimus-27 Speakers -
Damn... and I was kidding! Guess I should've offered $50, myselfLudicrous gibs!
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btw, nice hafler gear, rmaiers. I love my DH110, except now the source switch is starting to cut out a bit if it sits just so. A little wiggle, and it comes back to life. I haven't had the energy to tear it apart and clean it.Ludicrous gibs!
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Looks like the seller is going to stiff me. After agreeing to sell them to me and giving me his phone number he isn't answering my emails or the phone. Oh well, I don't have to worry about telling the wife now.
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The guy didn't stiff me after all but I suspect he found out they had problems. They look in ok shape but the tweeters aren't working. I did check the fuses and they were ok. Does anyone know how to tell if the tweeters are shot or the problem is with the cross-overs?
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Just disconnect one and touch the terminals with the ends of a speaker cable coming directly out of your amp or receiver with just a teensy little volume setting so as not to blow the dome right off of it, and also, make damn sure you don't let the + & - wires touch each other (very bad)!! That would suck if those Peerless are DOA, I love those tweeters.
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Rather than risk anything, I just connected a spare cheap tweeter (at low volume) to check.
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Go to Radio shack and get yourself an inexpensive Volt-Ohm meter. They are easy to use and far better than just hooking up a fullrange signal to the tweeter and possibly doing more damage.
Those RTA 12's are pretty darn good when they are working properly. They are definitely worth fixing. The Peerless tweeters if indeed blown will be tough to find. here's hoping it is something else. Sometimes folks (drunken or otherwise) decide that if they up the fuse value the speakers will play louder.
Unfortunately this usually leads to early demise of the tweeters. I suspect this may be what has happened to yours.
It is also possible that Polk used polyswitches in these and they have gone bad? I don't know if they used them in this model or not.
PaulMain system: Levinson Reference 32 Preamp/30.6 DAC/31.5 Transport/Sony SCD777ES/VPI Aries w/SDS JMW 10.5 arm/Van den Hul Frog/Levinson 33 Monoblocks/33H Monoblocks/Transparent reference XL interconnect & Speaker cable/Nearfield Acoustics Pipedream Reference 18 Line Array.
Bedroom: Levinson 390S/380S/ML3/Sony SCD 777ES/McIntosh MC2000/Infinity IRS-Beta -
The 12Bs have a .75 amp fuse to protect the tweeters. The 12C Model has the polyswitch for tweeter protection. I have a pair of both in addition to this "new" set. I also have a very nice set of SDA-2Bs.
At least the .75 amp fuses were installed and not blown. I did swap out the entire high frequency unit on one of my good 12Bs and it didn't play.
Does any one know what resistance should be seen across a peerless tweeter or if you can take readings on the crossover to determine if there are bad capacitors.
I do have a VOM.