Monitor 7C tweeter repair
MarkL
Posts: 4
I blew both tweeters in my pair of sweet Monitor 7C's. What is the recommended part to replace them?
Post edited by MarkL on
Comments
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Welcome to the Club.
It's going to depend on which tweeters they are. Can you post pictures? If not look search the forum to find a picture of what you have and post it here and the guys will assist.
What are you using to drive the 7's? -
I can't remember,, are the 7c's fused? If so did you check them,,if not check the polyswitch??JC approves....he told me so. (F-1 nut)
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Both tweeters play, but they are fuzzy and distorted. The other drivers seem fine. (I've blown out the mids before, many moons ago, so I know that that sounds like too!)
I was driving them with a Carver Receiver 900 (90 wpc) in a 2-channel config. Was playing the "Eagle Eye" Blu-Ray on my brand new PS3. There's a scene early in the movie where the hero and heroine are fleeing in a car and someone shoots out the back window of their car. That gunshot is what caused the problem. Stupid Blu-Ray dynamic range!! :mad:
I'll get some photos up promptly. -
Polk lists these as having a recommended amplifier power of 20-150watts per channel.
I'm new to the speaker scene, which will be more obvious by my next question:
How do you blow speakers rated at 125 recommended watts with a 90 watt/channel receiver?
And I'm asking because I have the rta-11tls rated to 250 watts and am pushing them with a very conservative HK receiver at may 65 watts/channel.
? Harmon Kardon AVR 55 (dead; replacing with Onkyo TX NR-616)
? Polk RTA 11TL's (FR and FL)
? Polk TSi200's (RR and RL)
? Polk CS10 (Center)
? Polk PSW-350
? Grado SR-60i Headphones
? Fii0 E5 headphone amp
? iPod touch (8 gig)
? iPod Classic (80 gig)
? Mac Mini (as media server)
? xbox 360 -
My guess is that you "clipped the amp", thus smoking your tweeters in the process,, careful with the volume Eugene,, or,, get a bigger/mo powerful/higher current amp,, you'll do far less damage than you will underpowering IMHO--good luck.JC approves....he told me so. (F-1 nut)
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Call Polk CS. You may have the SL2500 in those, and the new replacements are the RDO-198's. If they are the SL2000's the replacement part is RDO-194's. Mention that you are a Club Polk member to get the discount;)
Take care.
BenPlease. Please contact me a ben62670 @ yahoo.com. Make sure to include who you are, and you are from Polk so I don't delete your email. Also I am now physically unable to work on any projects. If you need help let these guys know. There are many people who will help if you let them know where you are.
Thanks
Ben -
george daniel wrote: »My guess is that you "clipped the amp", thus smoking your tweeters in the process,, careful with the volume Eugene,, or,, get a bigger/mo powerful/higher current amp,, you'll do far less damage than you will underpowering IMHO--good luck.
I'm quite certain that's exactly what happened. That Carver is a real trooper, but the transients in that gunshot probably caused it to clip for an instant.
My long-term goal is to upgrade, but budget is tight, so a tweeter replacement and some caution in the volume department is all I can do for now. I've got a line on a used Sunfire Cinema Grand 5x200, keeping my fingers crossed.... -
You will want to fix the problem before buying new tweeters or you will literally blow
$100. -
OK Here is a pic of my tweeter. However, while taking this pic, I noticed a small tear in the rubber surround of the midrange driver. I hadn't even seen it before. I've attached a pic of that too. What's really weird is ... when I checked the other speaker, THAT midrange had exactly the same kind of tear is exactly the same place!
Is a small tear in the surround something that would lead me to need to replace those too? If I have to replace enough stuff, I might be getting into just replacing these with something new (and then repairing them later! ha) -
Those butchers!
It is a lot to have to replace tweets and MWs all at once. You could try a little rubber cement on the tears. Just a little along the edge of the tear and mate the edges together. No glops. It may not be optimal but it should get you playing for a while. Then replace the MWs later (unless you really want something new).Stan
Main 2ch:
Polk LSi15 (DB840 upgrade), Parasound: P/LD-1100, HCA-1000A; Denon: DVD-2910, DRM-800A; Benchmark DAC1, Monster HTS3600-MKII, Grado SR-225i; Technics SL-J2, Parasound PPH-100.
HT:
Marantz SR7010, Polk: RTA11TL (RDO198-1, XO and Damping Upgrades), S4, CS250, PSW110 , Marantz UD5005, Pioneer PL-530, Panasonic TC-P42S60
Other stuff:
Denon: DRA-835R, AVR-888, DCD-660, DRM-700A, DRR-780; Polk: S8, Monitor 5A, 5B, TSi100, RM7, PSW10 (DXi104 upgrade); Pioneer: CT-6R; Onkyo CP-1046F; Ortofon OM5E, Marantz: PM5004, CD5004, CDR-615; Parasound C/PT-600, HCA-800ii, Sony CDP-650ESD, Technics SA 5070, B&W DM601 -
You can buy a pair of tweeters from Polk for around $100. shipped. You want the
RDO-194's and be sure to tell them you are a memebr of this wonderful forum. They do sound nicer than the SL-2000's you are replacing. Remember that they take a little time to break in. Try and be careful with the volume or you may blow the RDO's.
It may be a good idea to look into something like a integrated amplifier. A good one can be found for around $200.
Good luck -
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Did you buy it yet?? Don't wait too long!