Type RF XC6

sntnsupermen131

I was looking at Rockford Fosgate's amps and came across this one
Type RF XC6
but everytime i clicked on View Details, it would say "The Parameter Is Incorrect."
so i went to search typed it in
nothing
tried 4 or 5 different engines
yahoo, netscape, google, lycos, aol
nothing
i saw a few of the specs in the little summary beside it
1100x1 @ 2 ohms
and it looks mean!
its a 2003 model
anyone know anything about this amp?
i was wondering what class it was
-Cody

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i knew u'd find those eventually -- just dont get your hopes up -- unless your parents left u a small tibeten monestery full of gold and jewels, its prolly outa u're price range...

but here u go...

full break down below but in short -- its class "BD" -- the same class as the BD1000.1 / 500.1 its just D... nothing really special about it... freq response is up to 250 hertz give or take a hair as stated below.

The deal with the type RF stuff though is this -- its fosgate's attempt to break into the competition quality circuit. I've heard mroe than one SQ competitor say to me "they're a bit pricey, but I'd use that whole line in my car if they'd cut me a deal on the cost" which is a hell of a step up from "never, never, never would i use RF in an SQ comp car". The Type RF stuff is supposed to be one hell of a line of amps, and regardless of their actual classes, they are sposed to be very clean, very rugged, very efficient, very reliable, accurate, and good looking.




Channels 1
Per channel power 700 W X 1 @ 4 Ohms RMS

1100 W X 1 @ 2 Ohms RMS
Total power 700 Watts RMS
Crossover LP 50-250Hz 24dB per Octave

Subsonic Filter 12 dB per Octave
Tone controls Bass Control

0 to 18 dB @ 45 Hz

Voltage -150mV - 5 volts
Line output 1 RCA(pr)

Phase control
Power input Connector - Block

Wire gauge - 4

Heatsink Type -Cast

Cooling -Fan Cooled
Protection Yes
Remote control Included Type - Wired

Class B/D

Stereo/Mix mono

Frequency response 20 to 250 Hz +/- 3 dB

Dimensions 3.18 X 11.60 X 17.59 (inches)

Systems

thats one of the best looking amps ive ever seen...
have an idea on the price?
is it kind of useless for subs unless youre REALLY into SQ?
whats the THD?
-Cody

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it didn't list thd but i'm gonna guess it at under 0.001 % as that would fit with the line. damping would be through teh roof... between 750 and 1250.

price? i dont even want to hazard a guess... one of the type RF's was listed around 3,000 bucks but i'm nto sure which one it was... each amp is obviously going to have a difft price based on # of channels, rms power, etc etc...

anywhere between 1500 and 3 grand is my dukes of hazard guess.

hoenstly man.. unless u just wanna tell u're friends u ahve a type RF amp, then the 1000bd or the 1500bd would be just fine by me.

and this isn't knocking polk as much as it may sound, but i dont think you'd notice the difference between a 1000bd and a RFXC6 on the momo subs. they're not accurate enough. If you were running focal Utopias or something like a Soundstream Davinci... u would.

and unless your car is soundproofed like a Nasa Shuttle then it may not even make that much of a difference to you then.

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cody says "but its chrome.... and alien space ship lookin like.... i want it!" .... i know.... i almost do too...

sntnsupermen131

Originally posted by PoweredByDodge
cody says "but its chrome.... and alien space ship lookin like.... i want it!" .... i know.... i almost do too...

lol...you read my mind dude
i wish all their amps looked like that
and i dont plan on getting any new amps anytime soon
dont have the money...
i still want that pioneer premier head unit with the 6volt pre outs
then xm
then bigger tires
then another 1 farad capacitor
then saving for a new truck
lol
oo but that reminds me
a friend was wanting some bass lights
like the ones that actually hit when the bass hits
and i was looking through crutchfield and they had this thing for that but it was expensive
like $60 i think
is there a way you could rig that without paying for that?
-Cody

PoweredByDodge

cody - two options.

1- neon tubes that have that sensor on them (pep boys had htem for like 19.99 for a 15 inch tube... thats what i put under my dash -- strobes in back).

2- if you are familiar with a shock sensor for a car alarm... wire up the shock sensor, set it to a moderate sensitivity (higher / lower depending on how often u want the lights to go on)... wire the hot output to one end of a SPST relay coil(85). the other end (pin 86)of the coil will go to ground or 12V depening on whether the shock sensor outputs a ground pulse or a 12 v pulse.

after that.. wire the input pin (87) to 12V fused with an appropriate size fuse for the number of tubes uhave -- six 2 amp tubes = 10 - 12 amp fuse... then run the output pin ( 30 ) to your neons positive... ground the neon negative.

when the bass hits -- the neons go.

also.... you can have them do even more tricks...get an SPDT relay... and wire pin 30 to one set or color of neons... then wire 87A to another set or color... that way when th ebass hits... your front neons go on... when it lets off the beat, the backs go on(front turn off)... or when it hits your red neon tubes go on, when it lets off your blue ones go on (red turn off)

be sure to use a relay whether spst or spdt (u can use a dt for single throw applications also) that has a HIGH coil resistance. The higher the coil resistance, the less current is required to actually make the coil "trip" the switch inside. your standard 30A headlight relay is too bulky (electrical -wise, not size wise)-- its like trying to fine tune a piano with a friggin sledge hammer... 30A headlight relays have a current draw of approximately 130 milliamps. this means your little shock sensor has to really get going before its gonna make that relay trip.

however, if you get a PC board relay (they're just smaller and built for use in computers and ****), then the coil current draw may be as low as 30 - 35 milliamps (due to higher resistance)... so it'll trip much much easier...

the only thing u need to be aware of is this -- if u use a PC board relay, then you cannot run more than 10 - 15 amps of neon light current draw PER relay. you can probably hook two relays to one shock sensor... they're standard 100 - 500 ma outputs... i wouldn't do more than two or you run into not having enough current from the sensor to trip them.... so a total of 20 to 30 A of neon . that would be like 15 - 20 normal size tubes...

also, pc board relays do not haave connector pins.. they have little circuit board legs, so you'll have to get out the sodlering iron and solder some 16 gauge speaker wire onto there as leads.

the whole "done" package should only be the size of a pack of cigarettes and easily stick up under the dash with a few wire ties or black tape.

.... total cost ...
relay - 4.00 for a decent one
shock sensor - 10 to 20.00 depending which u buy and where u buy.
maxi fuse holder/fuse = 3.00

so for 17 - 27 bucks you're golden... and that unit will do more "Tricks" and have more features than the 60 dollar one they have at crutchfield. it'll also run more current -- the crutchfield one isn't worth the plastic its made out of unless u're only running 2 tubes... anything over 2 and the damn wire gauge is too thin.

here is hwat i would do and how i'd do it -- your shock sensor has 2 outputs -- one is a "warning" that whole "chirp chirp chrip, step away from the car" -- the 2nd is the full "alarm goes off and wails for 3 minutes". so when the bass hits "medium" -- have that first output trigger one set of neons... when it hits the LOW note really hard, have it trigger another set of neons that are hidden and add an ever brighter, more luminescent glow to the car.
so here goes....
wiring breakdown...

shock sensor - connect 12V power and ground to it.

spdt relay - pin 87 = 12V fused, pin 86 = ground, pin 85 = shock sensor stage one output, pin 30 = output to + of neons.

spdt relay #2 - same as above except pin 85 goes to teh second stage output of the shock sensor... and output goes to another set of neons.

i can draw it out for u if u want -- i just cant right now -- these unix computers at school dont have any drawing software... so lemme know if u need a diagram and i'll draw it when ig et home.


hell now u got me thinking.. i wanna do this in my truck too now !!.

sntnsupermen131

ok
im going to go through your whole message asking questions...lol
number 1
please draw it out for me
whats a SPST relay coil and whats the 85 and the pin 86 and the pin 87 and output pin 30?
will i know what it is when i get the sensor?
does it say on the light the amp rating?
neon positive..negative...the wire that comes out of the tube right?
SPDT relay?
(u can use a dtfor single throw applications also)
dt?
well let me tell you what i want to do
im going to have a total of 4 lights most likely
2 blue lights at the top of the back seat and 1 red light under each of the front seats
and what you said about when the bass hits have one color go off and when it shuts down have another color
now that you said it i like the red to go off when the bass hits and the blue when it stops
so if you could draw it out for me that would be awesome
and if any one of those questions doesnt have anything to do with that set up...then dont pay attention to it
lol
im going to tell my friend to go to walmart and go buy the ones that go off with vibration
lol
and tell me what exactly i need to ask for when i go to radio shack for the fuses/shock sensor/relay/whatever else i need
thanks man
i wasnt even planning on doing this until you told me about having lights go on and off at different times
lol
damn it...trying to make me spend money that i dont have?
lol
-Cody

PoweredByDodge

basic ****...

SPST RELAY - single pole (input), single throw (output) relay. When the relay is triggered, it goes from "off" to "on."

SPDT Relay - single pole (input), DUAL throw (output) relay. This is a relay that has one output which is "non switched" and one that is "switched"... what this means is that when the relay is in the "off" position, the "non switched" output is hooked up to the input... when the relay is in the "on" position the "switched" output is hooked to the "input" and the "non-switched" is disconnected.

Will you know what the pins on the relay are when u get it? Some relays have hte pins numbered on the piece of hardware itself... others have hte pins arranged in a pattern -- then you look at the back fo the package the relay came in and it will show that same pattern with little labels for each pin... labels will say "87, 87A, 30, 85, 86" ... OR... they will have their "actual" labels... which are "input/constant"(87), "coil 1" and "coil 2" (85 and 86... you'll see that it becomes irrelevant which is which... the coil is just a resistor.. polarity is irrelevant... "normally open" (30) and "normally closed" (87A)... note - only a spdt has an 87A... spst's only have 30.

"what's a dt?" -- as noted above -- dt was my abbreviation for SPDT ... st would be my abbreviateion for SPST.

NEON POS / NEG -- yes, there is only one wire coming out of the tube (but its liek a speaker wire with one positive, one negative... the side with a white line or with writing on it will be your positive).

FUSE RATING OF NEON -- your neon tubes will either come with a fuse on the wire or a fuse in the little cigarette lighter piece of **** thats on the end of them... if u dont see a fuse on the wire - bust open that cigareetee lighter cuz you're not going to use it anyway... inside is a fuse -- 99.9% of the time, its a 2 Amp fuse... so if its fused at 2 A, you can assume it will only draw 1.5 Amps tops... if you have 4 neon tubes at 1.5 Amps each... thats 6 amps... so put like a 7 or 8 amp fuse on your main power wire that goes into the relay input.

SPECIFICS...

ok... i will go through.... specifically... for what you said u wanted... to have the BLUE neon "always" on (u'll have a toggle switch so that its not on when the car is off... when u get in the car and turn the radio on, u can turn on this switch and your blue neon will be "always" on)... then... once the bass hits -- the blue shuts off and hte red goes on (momentarily, as long as the BOOM is comin outa of hte subs hard)...

if this is not how u want it -- let me know, and i'll re-do this little "manual" for u...

Your shock sensor will have 4 wires... power, ground, "warning", and "alarm".

You will use an SPDT relay.

NOTE - in the below diagram... we assume that your shock sensor has a POSITIVE TRIGGER output... if it has a negative trigger, then do not connect the other end of the coil to ground, instead, just jump it to the "input" pin so that it gets 12V.



this looks really "big" but its actually small as hell... like i said -- size of a pack of cigarettes when u're done (in addition to the toggle switch and fuse)

make sure you mount this thing under the dash but towards the front of the dash, like not against your firewall way in back... and do it in the CENTER of the car if at all possible.

PARTS LIST...

---

Here I made it easy -- just go to radio shack and get the following.

Cat # 275-248 - 10Amp SPDT Mini Relay (miniature power relay)
$3.99

Cat #: 275-708 - Heavy Duty Flip Switch rated 25A at 12.5VDC
$2.99

Catalog #: 270-1234 - Inline Blade Fuse Holder
$2.49

-- note - doesn't come with a fuse, but it takes those same fuses that you have in your truck or wherever, the nickel size blue / red / yellow ones... just snag a red 10 or white 12.5 A fuse for it from somebody/somewhere.

So now all we need is your sensor... which radioshack doesn't carry... so hunting i go...

http://www.thevideodoctor.com/pages/CS-97G.htm

there ya go -- Crimestopper CS-97G dual stage shock sensor.
$6.00

heres the wiring diagram for it...


so you're total is about 15 or 16 bucks... however i apologize that I do not know whether the shock sensor is a positive output or negative output. as stated above -- if its positive output... wire it as shown.. if its negative output, jump the other coil wire to 12V power instead of ground.

either way, its a 400ma output so you should be fine. for energizing that relay coil.

remember to use the "WARN" output not hte "ALARM" output as hte warn is much more sensitive -- so it'll "flash teh lights" more often.. if u find this is too much flashing for u, dial the adjustment back... if its still too much... hook it to the "ALARM" output instead.

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HOW TO TEST A SENSOR....

i forgot to tell u how to test the shock for whether its pos or neg trigger.


wire the power and ground up... dial it up to maximum sensitivity...

then... get a digital multimeter, and set it to DC voltage (20V or less)

hook the black ground probe of the meter to ground... hook the red "positive" probe to the "WARN" output of the sensor...

smack the sensor until it lights up and watch the meter... if it says 12 volts... or negative 12 volts... its positive trigger.

if you get nothing.. then unhook the meter... then hook the meter's Positive red probe to 12 volts power wire... hook the black to the alarm "WARN" output... smack the sensor till it lights and you should get 12 volts or negative 12 volts... then you know you have a Negative trigger output.

sntnsupermen131

ok well im going to give this a rest for a little while
i got new seats for my truck today from the junk yard
my original ones were bench and i didnt like those
so im going to get those installed someday
go buy everything
so in like a month ill bring it up again
i live out in the country and in town no one sells the neon tubes
well i dont think radio shack carrys them
ill have to make sure
thanks for everything though
-Cody

PoweredByDodge

no problem man... i'm glad u asked -- it forced me to use my head for the first time all week -- i been pickin my johnson the other 6 days...

for some reason i got this killer headache that motrin cant even help -- i've been mopin around the house like a zombie doing nothing but living on AOL.

hey -- i think paulette's got the hot's for u -- put on your good john travolta saturday night fever disco suit and go get her tiger.



oh by teh way -- that whole setup has a 70% chance of working... so it u dont want to risk a 30% chance of failure on a 20 dollar item.. dont do it... (the relay **** is fine... its the sensor trigger that could be of issue... damn things are sometimes unpredictable).

and bolt your sets up yourself dude -- just get those rolly ramps... that u drive u're truck up onto -- the little 30 dollar sets at pep boys that u just drive onto and u're truck is like 18" off the ground.. go under there with a socket wrench breaker bar and get the nuts off and voila seats come up.

sntnsupermen131

youve been with dodge too long dodge..
lol
all i gotta do is undo it from the top
dont have to worry about going under the truck
and i took out all the seats when i wired everything
easy
i know all that stuff
i dont pay anyone to work on my truck unless its something serious
im cheap
lol
the only time my truck has been in the shop was because something was rattling and i didnt know what it was
the brake calipers
lol...a week ago i was driving and i smelled something burning really bad
got out opened the hood
i keep different fluids under the hood...transmission fluid, coolant, oil
the transmission fluid had fallen and landed on the engine
lol
i felt smart
but hey
170,000 miles and still going
'96
-Cody

PoweredByDodge

u've got 170k on a 96?? how many fkin miles do u drive man!

thats like *doing math* --- almost 20k / year.

i had thought of adding a 3rd battery tray, in which to house a cooler with some Molson, but it never panned out quite right.

how do they unbolt from the top? is the floor board have threaded holes? if so - thats pretty damn good ... my ****'s got friggin carriage bolts going all the way through to under the floor board where its got a nut / washer.

my 88 was worse... less seats... more bolts.... go figure.

i've never actually taken the seats out of this truck... did the 88... but when i was doing the "baseball bat" wall i had to crawl under there to check for drilling into the gas tank or whatever and lines and **** and i noticed those ominous bolts.

sntnsupermen131

it was a work truck before i got it
i think the floor board is threaded
if dodge was smart that could at least weld the nuts to the bottom
and not put their engine half way through the fire wall
lol...
sorry
100% chevy guy
-Cody

PoweredByDodge

you have a poitn w/ the engine... its semi-annoying being so far back... but i like the extra room up by the fender walls.

Systems

its ok, my truck isnt like this but the new chevys have plastic covering the whole engine
i think they WANT you not to be able to fix it so they get more money...
-Cody

PoweredByDodge

wel u know what that plastic crap is for... to make it look pretty -- as mroe and more soccer moms buy full size trucks or are forced to drive them by their inept husbands who want something bigger and more macho than an SUV, they want nice clean pretty engines.... and since these people will never actually open the hood for any reason but to show their friends the new "really big engine" (not knowing anythign else about it), its not an issue for them.

in the long run - dealers get more $$$ for pulling plastic pieces off your car before doing work and thus making an extra half hour or an hour labor's charge.

gotta love mass marketing.

when the days of boxy, rough and tumbled, unfinished pickups come back.... i will not be complaining. *raises a glass to his '88... god bless Old Blue*