polk system

dee3152
dee3152 Posts: 19
edited October 2010 in Car Audio & Electronics
Im new to car audio but i want to have a whole polk system. this what i plan on picking up.

db691
db6501
mm2154 X2
Pa1200.1

I want to know this amplifier would work with the two sub woofers?
Post edited by dee3152 on
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Comments

  • arun1963
    arun1963 Posts: 1,797
    edited May 2009
    1. Need to know vehicle you will install in.

    2. If ure talking about the 15" sub, the model is mm 1540. The pa100.1 will drive 2 of these, but do you really need 2? 1 is better from a sq stand.

    3. Not a big fan of rears. It pulls the soundstage back and you would have phase and cancellation issues. How often you would have people in the back seat? I would prefer to keep the stage upfront. If you have a large vehicle or carry passengers at the back, the db691 at the back would be fine.

    4. Now to the main issue - Are you planning on running the fronts and rears off the HU? If so I see a major mismatch. You would have 800watts of sub sound and 60watts to the fronts and rears (15wrms x 4 from the hu). The sub would overpower the rest of the sound. You need to look at a 4ch amp. I would drop one sub and buy the 4ch amp.

    5. What HU are you going to use?
  • dee3152
    dee3152 Posts: 19
    edited May 2009
    my car is a acura legend 4 door

    the hu would be PIONEER AVH-P6000DVD or PIONEER AVH-P6800DVD

    and no the subs i got are mm2154 im guessing their a old version

    so i should look at the pa500.4 if i drop a sub
    and pa1100.5 if i stay with 2 subs
  • arun1963
    arun1963 Posts: 1,797
    edited May 2009
    I would drop one sub and add the pa500.4 for the front and rears (if you must :-) )

    Hence final set up would look like this

    front : db6501
    rears : db691
    4ch amp : pa 500.4
    Sub : your mm2154
    mono amp : pa1200.1
  • dirthog
    dirthog Posts: 124
    edited May 2009
    arun1963 wrote: »
    1. Need to know vehicle you will install in.

    2. If ure talking about the 15" sub, the model is mm 1540. The pa100.1 will drive 2 of these, but do you really need 2? 1 is better from a sq stand.

    Not necessarily true. Two subs allow them both to be more linear because they don't have to push as hard to get the same output(Stays closer to center instead of flopping around)

    3. Not a big fan of rears. It pulls the soundstage back and you would have phase and cancellation issues. How often you would have people in the back seat? I would prefer to keep the stage upfront. If you have a large vehicle or carry passengers at the back, the db691 at the back would be fine.

    Not everyone's goals are the same. Some people actually like having "surround sound" with four speakers running stereo:confused: Or listen to DVD's.


    4. Now to the main issue - Are you planning on running the fronts and rears off the HU? If so I see a major mismatch. You would have 800watts of sub sound and 60watts to the fronts and rears (15wrms x 4 from the hu). The sub would overpower the rest of the sound. You need to look at a 4ch amp. I would drop one sub and buy the 4ch amp.

    You can always turn the sub down to match the other speakers.

    5. What HU are you going to use?


    dee3152 wrote: »
    my car is a acura legend 4 door

    the hu would be PIONEER AVH-P6000DVD or PIONEER AVH-P6800DVD

    and no the subs i got are mm2154 im guessing their a old version

    so i should look at the pa500.4 if i drop a sub
    and pa1100.5 if i stay with 2 subs

    Since you are running a DVD player keep the rears, just like you would at home.

    If you have two subs now keep them and use whatever amp provides enough power for both of them. Remember you can always purchase more power than you need but you don't have to use it all. Your setup could change later and you might really need the power then. So go big now instead of purchasing two amps along the way.

    Buy a four channel amp for the fronts/rears and mono or 2 channel for the subs.
    HU: 880PRS
    Front: SR6500
    Amp: Alpine MRV-F545
    Sub: SR124-DVC
    Amp: Alpine MRD-M1005
  • arun1963
    arun1963 Posts: 1,797
    edited May 2009
    Not necessarily true. Two subs allow them both to be more linear because they don't have to push as hard to get the same output(Stays closer to center instead of flopping around)

    2xsubs would be 3 db louder than 1 sub, yes. But here is where I am confused:
    1x15" hooked to the pa1200.1 at 4ohms would give the sub 400watts rms
    2x15" hooked to the amp at 2ohm would again give each sub 400watts
    So wouldnt cone excursion in both cases be the same? You would move 2x amt of air, hence 2 subs would be louder? :confused:
    Not everyone's goals are the same. Some people actually like having "surround sound" with four speakers running stereo Or listen to DVD's

    True. My initial post was purely from my sq perspective. Till I realised he was going to run a dvd player. Thats why in my last post, suggested setup has the rears. The thing is, w/o time alignment and a centre channel, he will not have true surround sound effect even with multi channel dvd media. But he will still have cancellation issues.
    You can always turn the sub down to match the other speakers.

    True. My comment there was to stress that he should amp his fronts and rears and not just run them off the HU.

    To dee3152:

    welcome to CP. Appologies if this banter is confusing you :). Dan and I are saying the same thing we only differ on 1 vs 2 subs. BTW are you going with ported or sealed encl for the subs?
  • dee3152
    dee3152 Posts: 19
    edited May 2009
    i heard that sealed would be best for these subs but there is not that much ifo on the 2154. i got one so far for dirt cheap so i thought buying another one wouldn't hurt. im very new to audio system so any help or sugestions are a great help. Thanks to you both.
  • JoshParsons84
    JoshParsons84 Posts: 565
    edited May 2009
    Dee, no disrespect intended at all man but ur a complete newbie (just like me :) and you need to sloooowwww down take a deep breath take a step back and think outside the box for a minute. You've chosen a fantastic setup for your start. The best advice I know of to give u is learn everything u can about ur deck and ur amps and try as hard as u can to learn how to tweak. Tweaking makes or breaks a stereo system. It don't matter if u spend $500 or $5,000 or on ur system, if it's not dialed in right it's gonna sound like ****. 1200 watts goin to 2 15"s is IMO overkill but that's cuz I like a 12" much better. Your PA1200.1 will be awesome for any sub you hook up to it. Your fronts will never sound good unless u hook an amp up to them and that 500.4 will be good enough for just about any component out there. Take your time and learn what each little setting sounds like.

    Welcome to the wonderful world of car audio! Treat it good and it'll treat you even better!
  • dee3152
    dee3152 Posts: 19
    edited May 2009
    yea i think im working backwards because i only have the mm2154 sub. i have to decide on what hu i want to go with. also i think i decided to go with one sub just with fitment issues in my trunk. i going to go buy my local audio store and ask them if the can fit a dual box in there if not i will just go with the one.
  • cadenceclipse
    cadenceclipse Posts: 459
    edited May 2009
    yeah sounds like some real good advice u got dee. don't get me wrong a 4-channel is a great investment..or u could scratch the dvd surround sound, get a quality HU, could run front components biamped off HU(front channels on highs, rears on mids) and get a nice sub amp and single sealed box. $1000 like josh said tuned right(which will b easier w/out 4channel)(and crappy dvd w/ no tweaking capabilities) and your set
    Polk MM6501 kick panels, Eclipse cd7200mkll and SW9122 Bomb Box, Cadence A4, A7, CAP5, JL8W3V3
  • dee3152
    dee3152 Posts: 19
    edited May 2009
    what is consider high end for a hu. i want dd unit so which one is best
  • dee3152
    dee3152 Posts: 19
    edited June 2009
    still need some help on the hu is there a hu that is good and has tweaking abilities. also i still didnt go to the audio store yet about he subs box. i just recieved my mm2154, and now there is another on for sale again so i think im going to buy it just in case:D should be be buying the db691 and db6501 within the week. still waiting on the amps because of the hu, so if anyone has any suggestions please let me know. i would like dd hu but if there is something else i should look at let me know thanks again.

    one question though so would a 1100.5 5 channel amp work for the whole system if so wouldnt this be best than running two amps or do i have it wrong?
  • dee3152
    dee3152 Posts: 19
    edited June 2009
  • dee3152
    dee3152 Posts: 19
    edited June 2009
    someone can you tell me how to choose a amp. if im trying to get a amp for two mm2154. power Handling (continuous) 400 w Power Handling (peak) 800 . can tell me what im looking as in the specs of the amp. i think i should be looking a amp in 800 to 1000rms range. so will a amp that is rated 800 x 1 RMS @ 2 ohms be hat im looking for.
  • chu
    chu Posts: 178
    edited June 2009
    400 rms per sub @ 2 ohms

    so 800 rms @ 2 ohms for full potential
  • cadenceclipse
    cadenceclipse Posts: 459
    edited June 2009
    rite chu, for 1 sub, he has 2. yes dee 800wrms at 2ohms will work very well
    Polk MM6501 kick panels, Eclipse cd7200mkll and SW9122 Bomb Box, Cadence A4, A7, CAP5, JL8W3V3
  • dee3152
    dee3152 Posts: 19
    edited June 2009
    is 800rms the min since the max 1600 for two. or am i pushing it. also do u guys have a suggestion on a amp for these subs. i already said the pa1200.1 which is rated at 800x1 @ 2ohm
  • cadenceclipse
    cadenceclipse Posts: 459
    edited June 2009
    not min., at all. pa1200.1 wil work very well. cadence ia7
    Polk MM6501 kick panels, Eclipse cd7200mkll and SW9122 Bomb Box, Cadence A4, A7, CAP5, JL8W3V3
  • dee3152
    dee3152 Posts: 19
    edited June 2009
    i was looking at that ia7 amp yesterday i seen you post about it in another thread i have to look into it
  • cadenceclipse
    cadenceclipse Posts: 459
    edited June 2009
    yeah suppose ive been promoting it a bit lately. really can't beat it specially for price($250) i have a7 which it finally replaced bout 8 yrs later after many rumors for yrs. u read bout it? cadence site?
    Polk MM6501 kick panels, Eclipse cd7200mkll and SW9122 Bomb Box, Cadence A4, A7, CAP5, JL8W3V3
  • dee3152
    dee3152 Posts: 19
    edited June 2009
    where is at for 250?
  • cadenceclipse
    cadenceclipse Posts: 459
    edited June 2009
    powermaxelectronics.com retails for like 8 or 900. email jason(used to work for cadence). think he has it up for like 3, tell him i (mike)sent u and i'm getting mine this month, he'll hook it up even more 5yr warranty
    Polk MM6501 kick panels, Eclipse cd7200mkll and SW9122 Bomb Box, Cadence A4, A7, CAP5, JL8W3V3
  • cadenceclipse
    cadenceclipse Posts: 459
    edited June 2009
    whats up still need help on that HU? jus saw your posts somehow missed em last week or 2. u buy those interior speakers yet?
    Polk MM6501 kick panels, Eclipse cd7200mkll and SW9122 Bomb Box, Cadence A4, A7, CAP5, JL8W3V3
  • cadenceclipse
    cadenceclipse Posts: 459
    edited June 2009
    if not and only 1 sub hold off on 2nd sub and 6x9s(rears). go for MM components instead of dbs...let u catch up..
    Polk MM6501 kick panels, Eclipse cd7200mkll and SW9122 Bomb Box, Cadence A4, A7, CAP5, JL8W3V3
  • dee3152
    dee3152 Posts: 19
    edited June 2009
    right now i have 2 mm2154 i think i got the hot hand on the second one. they were 65 each shipped. still undecided on the hu.
  • cadenceclipse
    cadenceclipse Posts: 459
    edited June 2009
    sweet whatabout interiors? any thoughts on HU? besides DD heres one audiocontroldqxs
    Polk MM6501 kick panels, Eclipse cd7200mkll and SW9122 Bomb Box, Cadence A4, A7, CAP5, JL8W3V3
  • cadenceclipse
    cadenceclipse Posts: 459
    edited June 2009
    heres a thoguht for HU audiocontroldqxs
    Polk MM6501 kick panels, Eclipse cd7200mkll and SW9122 Bomb Box, Cadence A4, A7, CAP5, JL8W3V3
  • dee3152
    dee3152 Posts: 19
    edited June 2009
    i dont have the interiors. no thoughts on hu really want the dd but a lot of people say not to. the stock radio is dd and would like to keep it like that. would also like to keep the stock hu but im getting this bad sound like a hissing sound every time my car engine is on i dont know whats going on with it but its pretty bad right now.
  • cadenceclipse
    cadenceclipse Posts: 459
    edited June 2009
    good might want to think about going from dbs to MMs. the 2 pairs would cost u over 300 rite? rite now crutchfield is selling MM components under 300. 2.7ohms biamped(front amp channels power tweets, rear channels power mids) on the rite HU will work very well specially till u get 4-channel but that can wait, probably long. hissing maybe not HU probably bad ground..aftermarket DD is not what u think of when u think SQ. there r some decent decks out but with the vehicle kit it looks stock and u get a handy pocket(and much better sound, usually)
    Polk MM6501 kick panels, Eclipse cd7200mkll and SW9122 Bomb Box, Cadence A4, A7, CAP5, JL8W3V3
  • dee3152
    dee3152 Posts: 19
    edited June 2009
    what should i be looking for as in spec for a head unit or any suggestions on a model
  • cadenceclipse
    cadenceclipse Posts: 459
    edited June 2009
    well theres features like xovrs and eqs. time alignment, power?, pre-outs, the list goes. eclispe 5030, 7200. pioneer 880prs, couple nice alpines. check out audiocontrol they don't make HUs but sick processors mayb you'll keep your factory HU. if were building u a system we could use some help like budget, u stated some preferences like DD sounds like u want at least some sq obviosly some spl(15s), u all about sq? tight budget? there a lot u can do..fairly easily..
    Polk MM6501 kick panels, Eclipse cd7200mkll and SW9122 Bomb Box, Cadence A4, A7, CAP5, JL8W3V3