Need advice on bi-amping speakers
dpowell
Posts: 3,068
I am getting ready to finish out my garage to make more room for the next kiddo coming along in October. (This means I have to turn down the HT again 
but that is a different thread topic).
I'll be insulating and drywalling the wall that separates the theater from the garage. All of the cabling for my A/V is in this wall. I've left it open for convenience (the wife just thinks I haven't had the time yet).
I currently have a single speaker cable and RCA cable running to the left and right mains in-wall. Since I'll be sealing up the wall, I am wondering if I should put a second set of speaker wires in-wall for possible future bi-amping my mains.
The thing that brings this question on is that I'm currently working on the wife to get approval to get an SC-07 where I would use the internal ICE amp to power the 4 rear speakers and use my Adcom to power the mains and the center. This would mean that I would have 2 channels available for each left and right speaker.
My questions:
Are the RT3000's worth bi-amping? i.e. would I potentially notice a difference since I would only be separating the highs and mids with the bass still powered by the internal RT3000 sub amp.
Is it worth the risk of putting a quality cable in-wall with the possibility that I will move in the next 5 years and won't be able to remove it.
If yes to the above, I'm looking for recommendations as to what a good speaker cable would be to use. I'd need about 25 feet between the two speakers per set.
but that is a different thread topic).I'll be insulating and drywalling the wall that separates the theater from the garage. All of the cabling for my A/V is in this wall. I've left it open for convenience (the wife just thinks I haven't had the time yet).
I currently have a single speaker cable and RCA cable running to the left and right mains in-wall. Since I'll be sealing up the wall, I am wondering if I should put a second set of speaker wires in-wall for possible future bi-amping my mains.
The thing that brings this question on is that I'm currently working on the wife to get approval to get an SC-07 where I would use the internal ICE amp to power the 4 rear speakers and use my Adcom to power the mains and the center. This would mean that I would have 2 channels available for each left and right speaker.
My questions:
Are the RT3000's worth bi-amping? i.e. would I potentially notice a difference since I would only be separating the highs and mids with the bass still powered by the internal RT3000 sub amp.
Is it worth the risk of putting a quality cable in-wall with the possibility that I will move in the next 5 years and won't be able to remove it.
If yes to the above, I'm looking for recommendations as to what a good speaker cable would be to use. I'd need about 25 feet between the two speakers per set.
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polkaudio Fully Modded SDA SRS 1.2TLs + Dreadnaught, LSiM706c, 4 X Polk Surrounds + 4 X ATMOS, SVS PB13 Ultra X 2, Pass Labs X1, Marantz 7704, Bob Carver Crimson Beauty 350 Tube Mono Blocks, Carver Sunfire Signature Cinema Grande 400x5, ADCOM GFA 7807, Panasonic UB420, Moon 380D DAC, EPSON Pro Cinema 6050
polkaudio Fully Modded SDA SRS 1.2TLs + Dreadnaught, LSiM706c, 4 X Polk Surrounds + 4 X ATMOS, SVS PB13 Ultra X 2, Pass Labs X1, Marantz 7704, Bob Carver Crimson Beauty 350 Tube Mono Blocks, Carver Sunfire Signature Cinema Grande 400x5, ADCOM GFA 7807, Panasonic UB420, Moon 380D DAC, EPSON Pro Cinema 6050
Post edited by dpowell on
Comments
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I've done it both ways and I like bi-amping more. Although the extra cost IMO doesen't really equal the sonic improvement.I'm still glad to have tried it. GL
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An alternative is to make the holes in the wood studs large enough to accommodate the cables if you choose to bi wire in the future.
Then you get a good quality( string/nylon cord ) dollar store stuff works. It just has to be strong enough that if the cable gets stuck as you pull it, it won't snap. Then you will have a pull cable for future use.
just don't forget why you ran pull cables you can get get pretty depressed if you yank them out. My advise label the ends. so you know.
Also test the the cable to make sure it slides freely before you dry wall. try not to do 90 degree turns as this is harder to pull. I add this because i am not sure how your walls are. you can do it just make the hole bigger 3/4 inch stud holes are a start but it depends on your cables that you are running.)
Pedler -
I've done it both ways and I like bi-amping more. Although the extra cost IMO doesen't really equal the sonic improvement.I'm still glad to have tried it. GL
Is there anything specific you liked about it? Is it worth it if the cost is just the price of cable?____________________________________________________________
polkaudio Fully Modded SDA SRS 1.2TLs + Dreadnaught, LSiM706c, 4 X Polk Surrounds + 4 X ATMOS, SVS PB13 Ultra X 2, Pass Labs X1, Marantz 7704, Bob Carver Crimson Beauty 350 Tube Mono Blocks, Carver Sunfire Signature Cinema Grande 400x5, ADCOM GFA 7807, Panasonic UB420, Moon 380D DAC, EPSON Pro Cinema 6050 -
Is there anything specific you liked about it? Is it worth it if the cost is just the price of cable?
It gives me more options and control such as gain matching between the bass, mids and tweeters in the main speakers of my 2 channel rig.Just a way to customise the sound a little more to my taste, and makes it more fun to play with as well.I would do it all over again. -
I don't really understand bi-amping. Please explain and whats the benifit. Thanks
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Bi-amping is when you separate the high frequency and low frequency drivers of your speakers to different amplifiers for better crossover performance.
The premise is you will obtain better bass mids and high frequency
Your speakers have to allow you to biamp to do this ( have 2 sets of terminals on your speakers)
