RTi10 Mod #2...
RedLetterDay
Posts: 7
So a while ago I posted a thread where I showed how I painted the front of my black RTi10s because I thought the silver looked kind of cheap. It yielded satisfactory results but I still thought the speakers looked a little off, especially with the old grills. Additionally I decided that I no longer liked the black color of the speakers, the only reason I had actually chosen them over the cherry color is because I was able to get these for significantly less, and being in college, money is unfortunately never easy to come by.
Anyways, I decided to do a complete overhaul. I took the entire speakers apart, first sanding down the fronts to completely flat (I think I ended up taking about 1/2 inch total off) to get rid of all that cheap material on the front. Maybe someone can do a quick measurement to figure out exactly how I much I took off -- my RTi10s are now 14 and 1/4" deep.
Then I sanded down the exterior and stained the wood with 1 coat of Minwax Red Oak and applied 2 coats of polyurethane. Also I made some new grills using 3/8x3/8 strips of bass wood, a hand miter saw, some glue, and staples for the grill cloth. Who knew that my freshman year 3D design class would have been useful down the road, hah.
So here's how they came out, the second speaker is still in the works but its almost done and theoretically should be exactly the same as this one.
Anyways, I decided to do a complete overhaul. I took the entire speakers apart, first sanding down the fronts to completely flat (I think I ended up taking about 1/2 inch total off) to get rid of all that cheap material on the front. Maybe someone can do a quick measurement to figure out exactly how I much I took off -- my RTi10s are now 14 and 1/4" deep.
Then I sanded down the exterior and stained the wood with 1 coat of Minwax Red Oak and applied 2 coats of polyurethane. Also I made some new grills using 3/8x3/8 strips of bass wood, a hand miter saw, some glue, and staples for the grill cloth. Who knew that my freshman year 3D design class would have been useful down the road, hah.
So here's how they came out, the second speaker is still in the works but its almost done and theoretically should be exactly the same as this one.
Post edited by RedLetterDay on
Comments
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Looks great, but where are the grill less pics?"He who fights with monsters should look to it that he himself does not become a monster. And when you gaze long into an abyss the abyss also gazes into you." Friedrich Nietzsche
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Please repost the pics from before. They disappeared from your other thread.Please. Please contact me a ben62670 @ yahoo.com. Make sure to include who you are, and you are from Polk so I don't delete your email. Also I am now physically unable to work on any projects. If you need help let these guys know. There are many people who will help if you let them know where you are.
Thanks
Ben -
Looks great, but where are the grill less pics?
Hah, I'll have to take some more pictures later.Please repost the pics from before. They disappeared from your other thread.
Re-uploaded them to my server -- should be working now. I'll just post them here so people don't have to go to the other thread. Here's what they looked like before:
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I would keep the feet on them or at least spike them. Looks good, would also like to see before and after pics.Polk Audio SDA 2.3tl Fully Hot Rodded. 😎
SVS SB16 X2
Cary SLP-05/Ultimate Upgrade.
Cary SA-500.1 ES Amps
Cary DMS 800PV Network
OPPO UDP 205/ModWright Modification
VPI Scout TT / Dynavector 20x2
Jolida JD9 Fully Modified
VPI MW-1 Cyclone RCM
MIT Shotgun 3 cables throughout / Except TT, and PC’s -
I like the new look. The black has done well to highlight the grain.Please. Please contact me a ben62670 @ yahoo.com. Make sure to include who you are, and you are from Polk so I don't delete your email. Also I am now physically unable to work on any projects. If you need help let these guys know. There are many people who will help if you let them know where you are.
Thanks
Ben -
Congrats, the speakers look great!Linn AV5140 fronts
Linn AV5120 Center
Linn AV5140 Rears
M&K MX-70 Sub for Music
Odyssey Mono-Blocs
SVS Ultra-13 Gloss Black:D -
You need to reattach the power port base to the rear port as it was designed for it to be in place.- Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
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Red oak color looks nice. I am picking the color for my RT1000p, since I just finished veneering those :cool:Panasonic PT-AE4000U projector for movies
Carada 106" Precision Series (Classic Cinema White)
Denon AVR-X3600H pre/pro
Outlaw 770 7-channel amplifier
B&W CDM1-SE fronts
B&W CDM-CNT center
B&W CDM1 rears on MoPADs
JBL SP8CII in-ceiling height speakers
Samsung DTB-H260F OTA HDTV tuner
DUAL NHT SubTwo subwoofers
Oppo BDP-93 Blu-Ray player
Belkin PF60 Power Center
Harmony 1100 RF remote with RF extender
Sony XBR-X950G 55" 4K HDR Smart TV + PS3 in the living room -
Vr3MxStyler2k3 wrote: »You need to reattach the power port base to the rear port as it was designed for it to be in place.
Eh... I did a test a while ago with it on one speaker and off the other and switched the balance back and forth, I couldn't hear any noticeable difference. That and the fact that it looks horribly ugly made me decide to just take them off.Red oak color looks nice. I am picking the color for my RT1000p, since I just finished veneering those
Cool deal, I just did one coat on the speaker above but I'm thinking on the second speaker I might try 2 and see how much of a difference it makes.