Lsi FX Wall Installation Tips

Ethancf
Ethancf Posts: 458
Hey all,

Anybody have any good tips and tricks/tutorials for performing a wall mount installation? I've never done a wall mount installation and am not sure how to run the speaker wires into the wall, up the wall and out the hole where the speakers would be located. Also, what kind of mounting hardware is needed? Yes I'm novice guys.

Thanks!
THE SYSTEM
Polk Audio LSi25 Mains
Polk LSiF/X Surrounds
Polk Audio LSiC Center
Definitive Technology PowerField 1800 Subwoofer
Parasound Classic 7100 Pre/Pro
Parasound 2205A Amplifier
Pioneer Elite BDP-05FD Blu-ray Player
Monster HTS 2600
Microsoft XBox 360
Samsung PN64D550 64" Plasma
Post edited by Ethancf on

Comments

  • Bernal
    Bernal Posts: 991
    edited May 2009
    Ethancf wrote: »
    Hey all,

    Anybody have any good tips and tricks/tutorials for performing a wall mount installation? I've never done a wall mount installation and am not sure how to run the speaker wires into the wall, up the wall and out the hole where the speakers would be located. Also, what kind of mounting hardware is needed? Yes I'm novice guys.

    Thanks!

    http://www.crutchfield.com/S-GWYXcng2SiH/Learn/learningcenter/home/inwall_retrofit.html?page=2
  • ben62670
    ben62670 Posts: 15,969
    edited May 2009
    I am almost positive they have Key holes on the backs. No bracket required.
    Please. Please contact me a ben62670 @ yahoo.com. Make sure to include who you are, and you are from Polk so I don't delete your email. Also I am now physically unable to work on any projects. If you need help let these guys know. There are many people who will help if you let them know where you are.
    Thanks
    Ben
  • lightman1
    lightman1 Posts: 10,794
    edited May 2009
    ben62670 wrote: »
    I am almost positive they have Key holes on the backs. No bracket required.
    Field trip? Boise?
  • Eric W
    Eric W Posts: 556
    edited May 2009
    ben62670 wrote: »
    I am almost positive they have Key holes on the backs. No bracket required.
    Correct, 2 sets integrated with the PowerPorts. Just screw some screws into something solid (like a stud) and hang the speakers up.
    -Eric
    -Polk Audio
  • reeltrouble1
    reeltrouble1 Posts: 9,312
    edited May 2009
  • Ethancf
    Ethancf Posts: 458
    edited May 2009
    Thanks everyone. I should probably rephrase. It's not so much the mounting...it's snaking the wires through the walls, where to drill holes and how to find the wires. I guess I could just drill a hole where the speaker will go, run the wire through, drill another hole by the baseboard below the speaker, then run it under the baseboard to the amp. *Shrug*
    THE SYSTEM
    Polk Audio LSi25 Mains
    Polk LSiF/X Surrounds
    Polk Audio LSiC Center
    Definitive Technology PowerField 1800 Subwoofer
    Parasound Classic 7100 Pre/Pro
    Parasound 2205A Amplifier
    Pioneer Elite BDP-05FD Blu-ray Player
    Monster HTS 2600
    Microsoft XBox 360
    Samsung PN64D550 64" Plasma
  • rtart
    rtart Posts: 833
    edited May 2009
    Ethancf wrote: »
    I guess I could just drill a hole where the speaker will go, run the wire through, drill another hole by the baseboard below the speaker, then run it under the baseboard to the amp. *Shrug*

    This method works pretty well, depending on how careful you are when you do it. I've done it in the past by removing the base molding to cut a hole to get to the wire coming down from the speaker. (Use a sharp utility knife to score the seam between the molding and the sheetrock before gently prying it away.) Tying a steel nut to a string and dropping it down to the bottom whole, then poking around with a magnet works well. Then tape the speaker wire to the string and pull it through. Once the molding is off, you should have a gap of an inch or so between the bottom of the sheetrock on the wall and the subflooring. That's where the speaker wire should go. Use tape to hold it in the gap so the base molding doesn't pinch it when you reinstall it. Be careful not to nail through the cable. You can do the same thing with a low-voltage old-work box to allow a nice termination plate on the wall near your AVR and other equipment. A little caulk and some touch-up painting and you're good to go.

    Make sure to use in-wall certified speaker cable. HD or Lowe's will have everything you need. Investing in a good fish tape is a good idea as well. Maybe they could rent you one.

    This method can give you a really professional look if you take your time.

    Good luck!
    My 7.4.4 DIY 4k Home Theater:
    Polk LSiM 707 L-C-R, LSiM702 side surrounds, LSiM 705 rears
    Polk LSiM 702s x 4 on the Ceiling Atmos speakers
    2 x SVS PB12/Plus 2's
    Denon X3700H
    Emotiva XPA11 Gen 3
    XBox One X 4k & BD and streaming
    Panasonic UB-420 4k player
    HD-A35 HD DVD
    Oppo BD-103D for hirez audio
    Technics SL-D2 TT, Grado Gold Cartridge
    JVC DLA-RS2000/NX7 projector
    Silver Ticket 120" acoustically transparent screen
    Berkline 090 electric recliners with Aura Bass Shakers
  • Rocco1
    Rocco1 Posts: 190
    edited May 2009
    rtart wrote: »
    This method works pretty well, depending on how careful you are when you do it. I've done it in the past by removing the base molding to cut a hole to get to the wire coming down from the speaker. (Use a sharp utility knife to score the seam between the molding and the sheetrock before gently prying it away.) Tying a steel nut to a string and dropping it down to the bottom whole, then poking around with a magnet works well. Then tape the speaker wire to the string and pull it through. Once the molding is off, you should have a gap of an inch or so between the bottom of the sheetrock on the wall and the subflooring. That's where the speaker wire should go. Use tape to hold it in the gap so the base molding doesn't pinch it when you reinstall it. Be careful not to nail through the cable. You can do the same thing with a low-voltage old-work box to allow a nice termination plate on the wall near your AVR and other equipment. A little caulk and some touch-up painting and you're good to go.

    Make sure to use in-wall certified speaker cable. HD or Lowe's will have everything you need. Investing in a good fish tape is a good idea as well. Maybe they could rent you one.

    This method can give you a really professional look if you take your time.

    Good luck!

    This covers almost all of it.

    But make sure when the make the hole on the bottom it will be covered back up by the base board. When you run the wire out the bottom, score and remove a portion of the drywall below the bottom hole so the speaker wire has some where to sit. This is so you dont have to worry about the wire bowing the base board out, or the base board messing the wire up.

    Make sure the bottom hole is just above the bottom plate(2x4) of your wall. Then you shouldnt need any touch up paint or caulk. (as long as you dont make the top to big)
    Man Cave: 7.1
    -PS Audio Power Plant Premier
    -PS Audio Power backup
    -Onkyo Pre/Pro> 2 Adcom555se bridged and bi-wired> RTi A9s
    > Adcom GFA 7605> CSi A6 center, RTi A3s side rears, FXi A6s rears
    >Sub = MK Audio 10'
    -PS3
    -Onkyo 5 disc cd player
    -Directv
    -Samsung 59' plasma flanked by 2 Samsung 43' plasma's