How big should my sub box be?

Hey guys, I was just wondering how big of a box I should make for my 12'' sony sub, 300 watt rms, 1000 watt peak.

http://www.xplodsony.com/xplod/subwoofers/XS-L120P5A

That's the sub (Link above)

It's a car sub, but will be going into my room (Basement cause it's bigger and sounds better) Also, I'm only gonna be running it off of a mosfet car amp, it's bridged, the output I will be able to give the sub is 300 watt rms, and 600watt max (Untill I get another car amp)

Thanks for your help guys.
Post edited by Miniouse on

Comments

  • ahardy17
    ahardy17 Posts: 84
    edited May 2009
    glad to see i'm not th eonly one using a car sub in home

    minimum of 1 cu. ft. preferably 1.25 ft. for a sealed box.

    don't try a ported box, port tuning is a science. if you must know. for a ported box, minimum 2 cu. ft. prefereably 2.5.

    how are you powering the amp?
    In-Car:
    Head Unit: Sony MEX-1GP
    Door speakers: Infinity Kappa 680.9cs
    Rear speakers: Polk db690
    Subwoofers: Memphis Audio 15-M3124
    Amps: Pioneer GM5300T, Kenwood KAC 6020, Memphis Audio MCD1.1100

    In-Home:
    Harmon/Kardon AVR 230
    Harmon/Kardon DVD 101
    Yamaha RX-V995
    Bose 161
    Bose 901
    Polk FXi30
  • Miniouse
    Miniouse Posts: 4
    edited May 2009
    Thx for your help man. I guess I'm going for the sealed box then. And for powering the amp? I bought 2 computer power supply's (Couldn't find a cheap one larger than 600watts) for $20 each, both 400watts each, total of 800 watts, good for the 600 watt max amp.

    And I cut the Green cable, and wired it to a black/ ground wire.... This is how it indicates that you want to turn the power supply on, just like a computer. You push the power button, and your computer turns on. So in this case I took the green wire and black wire, and attached it to a switch to turn it on.

    After that I cut the yellow cable (Positive 12v) And put it in the power in on the amp. And the black/ ground went to the negative/ power out on the amp. And instead of wiring the head units "Power on" To the amp, I took a tiny cable, put it in there, and stuck it to the "Power in" Cable, so once I flick the switch I made, the computer power supply turns on, sends power to the amp and indicates itself that it hass turned on.

    Sorry that I didn't describe itvery well, just ask waht you didn't understand and I'll explain it, or I could e-mail you some pics if you want.

    Other than that, I just use the red and white input (Forget what it's called) And just plug it into an old volume control box, in which is getting the "Audio in" From my pc, and sends the "Audio out" To my amp.
  • ahardy17
    ahardy17 Posts: 84
    edited May 2009
    it's no problem at all. i'm glad i finally was able to help someone on here, the majority of these people are all talking about obscure speakers and amps and i don't get much of it. I know what you're talking about with the computer power supplies though haha that's how I have my system set up now. I have a Memphis Audio M3 sub with a pioneer amp mounted on the back of the box and a 750 watt power supply. It sounds good and hits hard although at high volumes the power supply takes a second to provide all the jiuce necessary to push the sub for particular notes. Good luck with your set up, PM me if you have any questions, I've been through it all haha
    In-Car:
    Head Unit: Sony MEX-1GP
    Door speakers: Infinity Kappa 680.9cs
    Rear speakers: Polk db690
    Subwoofers: Memphis Audio 15-M3124
    Amps: Pioneer GM5300T, Kenwood KAC 6020, Memphis Audio MCD1.1100

    In-Home:
    Harmon/Kardon AVR 230
    Harmon/Kardon DVD 101
    Yamaha RX-V995
    Bose 161
    Bose 901
    Polk FXi30