Removing Mortited drivers

jimbo1421

Hi there.

I have spent the afternoon working on the Monitor 10s I picked up a few weeks ago. I have sealed the open mitre joints at the bottoms of the cabinets with epoxy and Dynamatted the driver cages on the midwoofers and passive bass radiator. For now I am leaving the tweeters and crossover alone.

I picked up some Mortite equivalent from Home Depot; it's made by MD and called Replaceable Cord Weatherstrip. I expect that I will someday refurbish the crossovers and will need to remove the drivers again. Has anyone had to do this after using Mortite or the MD equivalent to seal the drivers in? Is it harder to remove a Mortited driver than one sealed with the speaker tape? Very difficult? Impossible? I would sure like to know before I stick them down.

Also, the dates on the drivers are from 1988, so the M10s are 21 years old. Are the crossovers old enough to require rebuilding?

Regards,
Jim

skrol

To remove the driver after using Moretite, I used an "L" shaped hex key and a pair of pliers. Choose a hex key thin enough to slip the shorter end under the edge of the driver and pull on outward on the longer end of the key with the pliers. Might have to pull a few different places to loosen the driver form the cabinet.

jimbo1421

Thanks, Stan. How long after you stuck down your drivers with Moretite did you remove them again?

Face

skrol wrote: »

To remove the driver after using Moretite, I used an "L" shaped hex key and a pair of pliers. Choose a hex key thin enough to slip the shorter end under the edge of the driver and pull on outward on the longer end of the key with the pliers. Might have to pull a few different places to loosen the driver form the cabinet.

I used the same method to remove a pair of "mortited" drivers. They were installed for about 2 months. They were removed again a week later and took the same amount of force. Both times, it took less force than removing drivers after using PartsExpress's gasket tape.

dolby1970

Jimbo,

Any chance you could measure the outside diameter of the passive radiator? I need that measurement so that I can route out a recess for the cabinet I've built for the drivers I should soon be getting.

thanks,

dolby

jimbo1421

dolby1970 wrote: »

Jimbo,

Any chance you could measure the outside diameter of the passive radiator? I need that measurement so that I can route out a recess for the cabinet I've built for the drivers I should soon be getting.

thanks,

dolby

Hi Dolby,
I think this is a bad idea. My practice as a former custom furniture maker was always to have the hardware item in hand to measure before I started making cuts into my project. Manufacturers always reserve the right to change specifications from their printed material and sometimes do. In our case there could be variations from one PR to another. Finally, I would not rely on dimensions supplied by some guy on the internet, even if it is me. Be patient, wait for your PRs to arrive and your project will come out right.

Regards,
Jim

PS: My passive radiators measured 10-1/8" or a hair less. The recesses measured 10-5/32". They were marked by hand as SW100 and 6-30-88.