DIY tools...

polkapolka

Hi guys, I am looking for input on the tools of the trade, recommendations, etc.

So, I have watched Tangent's vids on soldering, etc., and I have followed his recommendations for tools, but am looking for some personal feedback as to what you guys are using.

My current list of tools:
1. Soldering/ de-soldering station-Aoyue 968. What tips-size, type, should I invest in for my DIY amp project? I was thinking 2mm blade? Maybe smaller/bigger as well. What about beveled, conical? I like the idea of having a small blade, as it will transfer heat better than a conical, and is recommended by many people. I don't know for sure about the size, though.
2. Solder wire 63/37 .032, is that a good size? I have yet to get it, but this is what was recommended. Any thoughts?
3. (Forgot brand name) drill, with plenty of dif. size bits for case work.
4. Good screwdrivers, and sockets, wrenches, etc.
5. Cheap DMM, VC97 3 3/*4 Auto range digital multimeter from http://www.centralcomputers.com/commerce/ccp64099--digital-multimeter-vc97---3-75-auto-range-displa-dm-vc97-powvidmvc97r.htm (I hope this link works). At any rate, just wanted to give you an idea of what I bought, and it's capabilities. I am interested in investing in a fluke down the road, but for now this will suffice. I am very interested in suggestions. I know the 179 is getting a lot of great reviews. Since this will be on my workbench, I may go the bench top route as well. But, $200 is about all I am willing to spend. A bench top model is not required, just an option if the price and performance ratio is right.
6. De-soldering braid.
7. Pana vise instead of helping hands, which are usually too cheap and falll apart on me.
8. Organizer type thingy to hold my electronics parts in.
9. Tip tinner.
10. Sponge and de-ionized water, with needle-tip-style bottle dispenser bottle to prevent spillage.
11. Wire stripper, the decent variety. Looking for suggestions-brand names, web site links, personal preferences, etc.
12. Connector wire-need advice on this one.

Anything else that I am missing? I am the type who likes to have the right tool for the job, and am willing to make an investment for the long haul.

Thanks for any help you can offer,
Matt

ViperZ

My opinion, after doing DIY for years and being an electrical engineer:

- get a good simple brand-name soldering station, even Weller WES-51 will suffice. Forget paying extra money for desoldering station. Extra tips are very cheap for such stations (i.e. 5-10 bucks a pop max.).

- solder wire - 63/37 PbSn is obviously the standard choice (unless the manufacturer is switching to pure Sn due to Pb prohibition, etc etc). I usually use 2-3 sizes - can't tell if it's 0.032 or other. Thick one for transformers and other big heavy components, "middle" "standard" one for everything else, very thin one for small microcircuits.

- If you will be doing troubleshooting, invest in a good DMM (i.e. Fluke). I have used dozens of various DMMs including bench-top ones. A lot of them (well, most) are garbage. Difficult to use, prone to failure, etc.

6. De-soldering braid - you will have to experiment with this. There are many different brands and sizes. Some work well, some don't work at all.

7. Pana vise - bought one, very rarely use it, oh well.

8. Organizer type thingy to hold my electronics parts in - hard to find a good one. Let us know, which one you picked.

- take the money from 9 and 10 and invest in a better soldering iron.

Face

I agree with what was said above.

Your local craft store should have cheap plastic bins/organizers.

As for solder, I would go with Cardas or WBT. They flow well and have a low melting point.

ViperZ

Face wrote: »

As for solder, I would go with Cardas or WBT. They flow well and have a low melting point.

Face, no disrespect, but solder melting point is dependent on the composition of the solder. Sn63Pb37 solder is the most commonly used solder everywhere, and its melting temperature is 183C (361F for our American friends).

Current industry trend is going towards Pb-free solders (RoHS prohibition), and those have generally much higher melting temperatures. Also, reliability goes down the drain in a lot of cases (unproven technology; higher melting points means higher reflow temps, higher temp stress on the boards; tin whiskers, etc.)

As long as it's a good solder, with good flux in it (if you care, you can buy flux separately), that's all you really need.

To those who claim that silver solder will give you better sound - I don't know about that, but I do know that it melts at much higher temperature, does not reflow as well as SnPb solder and is prone to cold solder joints. So unless you are rewiring the crossover and have a really good soldering iron, I'd stay away from anything other than Sn63Pb37.

ben62670

Try some Rat Shack silver bearing solder on the spool, not the stuff in a tube. I love it and it bonds real good and easy. I have tried many.

mhardy6647

I use (and I am not kidding) vintage Kester 60/40 rosin core solder when it counts :-)

polkapolka

ViperZ wrote: »

My opinion, after doing DIY for years and being an electrical engineer:

- get a good simple brand-name soldering station, even Weller WES-51 will suffice. Forget paying extra money for desoldering station. Extra tips are very cheap for such stations (i.e. 5-10 bucks a pop max.).

- solder wire - 63/37 PbSn is obviously the standard choice (unless the manufacturer is switching to pure Sn due to Pb prohibition, etc etc). I usually use 2-3 sizes - can't tell if it's 0.032 or other. Thick one for transformers and other big heavy components, "middle" "standard" one for everything else, very thin one for small microcircuits.

- If you will be doing troubleshooting, invest in a good DMM (i.e. Fluke). I have used dozens of various DMMs including bench-top ones. A lot of them (well, most) are garbage. Difficult to use, prone to failure, etc.

Yeah, I am convinced of that now. Would you recommend one over the other? I know everyone is talking about the 179, but is that overkill for me? I am looking at having this for a very long time, but at the same time I don't want to over spend on something that only an electrical engineer may use.

6. De-soldering braid - you will have to experiment with this. There are many different brands and sizes. Some work well, some don't work at all.

Yeah, I am still looking for a source/ brand name for that. Or, I will just have to experiment until I find something that works well.

7. Pana vise - bought one, very rarely use it, oh well.

I just thought that it would be necessary, as the "helping hands" thingy deals aren't very reliable or well built.
Have you had another experience, or what are you using?

8. Organizer type thingy to hold my electronics parts in - hard to find a good one. Let us know, which one you picked.

Yeah, I will. I am going to the craft store to look, just like Face suggested.

- take the money from 9 and 10 and invest in a better soldering
iron.

Well, the one I bought was highly recommended for price performance ratio.
The station is two in one. So, I will see how it works.

Face wrote: »

I agree with what was said above.

Your local craft store should have cheap plastic bins/organizers.

Good idea. Exactly what I will do.

As for solder, I would go with Cardas or WBT. They flow well and have a low melting point.

ben62670 wrote: »

Try some Rat Shack silver bearing solder on the spool, not the stuff in a tube. I love it and it bonds real good and easy. I have tried many.

Thanks for the tip,
Matt

polkapolka

Sorry ViperZ, it turns out that I posted my responses within your quote.

Matt

megasat16

I don't see a few things I think you should own as well. In addition to what you already have, I think these are fairly cheap and should own items.

1. A good table Light / lamp with adjustable height and tilt and rotate. The light color should be natural white which has less strain on the eyes.

2. A small pocket size magnifier which you may need once in a while to look at the electronics parts with colors (or letters or imprints or codes) wearing off.

3. A small size solder flux for cleaning the soldering iron tips from time to time. I know most solder has flux core and usually you can tin the soldering tips with that it's not just the same as you dip the tip in the flux for a second.

4. A small magnetized pickup tools to reach out the fallen screws / washers, etc.

5. Invest in a good storage bin with multiple drawers (like you can store screws and resistors, capacitors; etc.)

6. A Precision Screwdriver set for electricians which has insulation all the way to near the bits.

I'll fill this list from time to time as I recall some more.

Have Fun with this Hobby! I can't stay away from it.

mhardy6647

offered as-is and without comment.

megasat16

Nice Sort! Offer Taken! Can you pack everything in about two large boxes?

JNG

Some thing I have found helpful
This may be over the top if so sorry I was a bench tech for 20+ years but that was 9 years ago and yes I am old

1) The solder wick I used was from Chemtronics, worked good for me I am sure others work good also, but make sure it is fresh and a good brand.
2) Always had good luck with Weller solder stations. Had several disordering stations. When they worked they were great but required constant maintenance. For small jobs the wick worked well.
3) You may want an antistatic mat to work on if what you are working is static sensitive.
4) If you are doing a lot of PCB work and need to keep solvent handy a small pump bottle for solvent (this minimizes the exposure to solvents remember you need good ventilation) like 20-3060 - TechPump Bottle from MCM I also used a flux brush with solvent and short bristles to clean excess flux “you can get at any home store” then a paper towel to remove any residual solvent left on the PCB
5) As stated above good light and a magnifier or magnifying glasses “things keep getting smaller”
6) Be careful of any “tuner cleaner or degreaser” some attack the plastics or damage the grease used in pots I have had good luck with Caig labs products
7) A good meter is a must I agree with the Fluke I used a Beckman that I liked also
8) A oscilloscope is vary useful but pricey I like the ones with onscreen voltage, freq., sweep rates, etc on screen “I have seen some programs that use your pc but haven’t tried any”
9) Some form of a function generate, also pricey “maybe a test disk will work”
10) If you are just starting out you may try some of the part kits for resistors and caps fuses etc. try to get the type you are most likely to use. I wouldn’t spend a lot on these “it’s nice to have some parts on hand”
11) Variac (variable ac transformer) with a volt and current meter
This is helpful if what you are working on can have the ac brought up slowly if not I have used a 100W lamp in series with the repair this will limit the current, if it lights bright you probably are drawing to much current and may indicate a problem. This helps save parts on devices that require full ac on start up.


Not knowing what you are working on or how serious you are some of this may not make any sense but I have found these helpful.

I hope this helps

polkapolka

megasat16 wrote: »

I don't see a few things I think you should own as well. In addition to what you already have, I think these are fairly cheap and should own items.

1. A good table Light / lamp with adjustable height and tilt and rotate. The light color should be natural white which has less strain on the eyes.

2. A small pocket size magnifier which you may need once in a while to look at the electronics parts with colors (or letters or imprints or codes) wearing off.

3. A small size solder flux for cleaning the soldering iron tips from time to time. I know most solder has flux core and usually you can tin the soldering tips with that it's not just the same as you dip the tip in the flux for a second.

4. A small magnetized pickup tools to reach out the fallen screws / washers, etc.

5. Invest in a good storage bin with multiple drawers (like you can store screws and resistors, capacitors; etc.)

6. A Precision Screwdriver set for electricians which has insulation all the way to near the bits.

I'll fill this list from time to time as I recall some more.

Have Fun with this Hobby! I can't stay away from it.

Very good. I do have a magnetic pick up tool.

Good idea about the flux. I will definitely get some of that.

I have been looking at and pricing the magnifier lamps. Whoa, some of those bad boys are expensive! I am looking for suggestions, links, etc. for these.

Pocket magnifier, no problem, will get on that one straight away.

I will be looking for a storage bin. Any suggestions?

Thanks mate,
Matt

polkapolka

JNG wrote: »

Some thing I have found helpful
This may be over the top if so sorry I was a bench tech for 20+ years but that was 9 years ago and yes I am old

1) The solder wick I used was from Chemtronics, worked good for me I am sure others work good also, but make sure it is fresh and a good brand.
2) Always had good luck with Weller solder stations. Had several disordering stations. When they worked they were great but required constant maintenance. For small jobs the wick worked well.
3) You may want an antistatic mat to work on if what you are working is static sensitive.
4) If you are doing a lot of PCB work and need to keep solvent handy a small pump bottle for solvent (this minimizes the exposure to solvents remember you need good ventilation) like 20-3060 - TechPump Bottle from MCM I also used a flux brush with solvent and short bristles to clean excess flux “you can get at any home store” then a paper towel to remove any residual solvent left on the PCB
5) As stated above good light and a magnifier or magnifying glasses “things keep getting smaller”
6) Be careful of any “tuner cleaner or degreaser” some attack the plastics or damage the grease used in pots I have had good luck with Caig labs products
7) A good meter is a must I agree with the Fluke I used a Beckman that I liked also
8) A oscilloscope is vary useful but pricey I like the ones with onscreen voltage, freq., sweep rates, etc on screen “I have seen some programs that use your pc but haven’t tried any”
9) Some form of a function generate, also pricey “maybe a test disk will work”
10) If you are just starting out you may try some of the part kits for resistors and caps fuses etc. try to get the type you are most likely to use. I wouldn’t spend a lot on these “it’s nice to have some parts on hand”
11) Variac (variable ac transformer) with a volt and current meter
This is helpful if what you are working on can have the ac brought up slowly if not I have used a 100W lamp in series with the repair this will limit the current, if it lights bright you probably are drawing to much current and may indicate a problem. This helps save parts on devices that require full ac on start up.


Not knowing what you are working on or how serious you are some of this may not make any sense but I have found these helpful.

I hope this helps

Wow, thanks for all the info. I will have to make a list. This has been very helpful.

Can you suggest any table lamp magnifiers or sources for me? I am not looking to spend a $100 on one either. I just can't justify that. However, with that said, I understand you get what you pay for, and I am not against spending a extra for quality.

The DIY projects I will be doing will include, making cable wire, interconnects, DIY headphone amps, maybe re-cabling my headphones. Along that line of things.

I will definitely get some of those things on your list, and probably all over time-as funds permit.

Thanks once again for all the great info.,
I really appreciate it,
Matt

polkapolka

mhardy6647 wrote: »

offered as-is and without comment.

No comment needed. Now that is what I call a workbench! :eek:

Matt

gdb

For storage of misc. items you could check WW Grainger. They also have a huge catalog of almost everything else too.:)



http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg/productIndex.shtml?operator=prodIndexRefinementSearch&originalValue=Storage+Cabinet&L1=Storage+Cabinets%2C

polkapolka

gdb wrote: »

For storage of misc. items you could check WW Grainger. They also have a huge catalog of almost everything else too.:)



http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg/productIndex.shtml?operator=prodIndexRefinementSearch&originalValue=Storage+Cabinet&L1=Storage+Cabinets%2C

Thanks gdb, I will definitely look into this. I'll post what I find and use, whether it is from there or not.

Matt

megasat16

I think there are a few places that carries magnified table lamps for professional soldering and PCB repair works. Personally, it would works well but I found little use for the magnifiers in them unless you are doing repair on the surface mount devices on the PCB. I just used a good old table lamp which can double functions as a good reading light and change the bulb to the natural white color bulb. If you have unused table light in the closet, it'll get you started.

If you want to buy a magnified table lamp for under $100, I know Parts Express Carries them. Locally, I found them in Fry's Electronics and Harbor Freight Tools which all cost about the same.

For small parts bin, check out Fry's electronics or Home Depot also has some nice multi-drawer bins at a really cheap price.

megasat16

gdb wrote: »

For storage of misc. items you could check WW Grainger. They also have a huge catalog of almost everything else too.:)



http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg/productIndex.shtml?operator=prodIndexRefinementSearch&originalValue=Storage+Cabinet&L1=Storage+Cabinets%2C

Thanks gdb! I am going to bookmark this store too. It always helps to have multiple sources for some parts.

devani

Iike Viper, I am also an electrical engineer…..to add to his post..
use water-based flux....so that you can wash them off with hot tap water and a toothbrush…anything that’s not water based flux is hard to remove and worse it will create DC offset if not cleaned properly with chemicals called flux remover..…

since you are not doing any Surface mounted boards, stay away from sharp pointed tips. round ones are better for transferring heat. I have used 10K solder stations for work removing and putting 200+ pin surface mounted chips…conical ones are used for equal amount of solder on each pin…

honestly if I don’t do soldering for more than 3 days, I know my hands are not steady….that’s how sensitive I am….Just take everything slowly when doing any soldering work….do not pull on anything if it won’t come out…

skrol

I'd be cautious about cheap multi-meters. I have a cen-tech meter from Harbor Freight that is ok for middle of range measurements that do not require precision like your car battery. However I found it very inaccurate for measuring things like a 1.5ohm 1% resistor found in my crossovers. It measured it as 2.5 ohms while my Fluke 187 measured it as 1.54 ohms.

polkapolka

skrol wrote: »

I'd be cautious about cheap multi-meters. I have a cen-tech meter from Harbor Freight that is ok for middle of range measurements that do not require precision like your car battery. However I found it very inaccurate for measuring things like a 1.5ohm 1% resistor found in my crossovers. It measured it as 2.5 ohms while my Fluke 187 measured it as 1.54 ohms.

Yeah skrol, you have just added one more reason for me to get a nice Fluke, probably 179.

What model of Fluke do you have?

Thanks for the tip. I am really beginning to understand the importance of these measurements being accurate.

BTW, do you know if you have to have a brand new Fluke calibrated? I would think no, but it doesn't hurt to ask either.

Matt

skrol

I picked up a nice Fluke 187 off EB. It is much more meter than I need but you can never have too much precision and I got it for a great price.

The calibration should be good for a new meter. Mine was slightly used, still has the screen protector film, and had been calibrated before it was sold.

polkapolka

skrol wrote: »

I picked up a nice Fluke 187 off EB. It is much more meter than I need but you can never have too much precision and I got it for a great price.

The calibration should be good for a new meter. Mine was slightly used, still has the screen protector film, and had been calibrated before it was sold.

Kool. I heard you can get good deals if you are patient and pay close attention to the bidding.
However, I am inclined to buy new, just because I don't trust people that much. But, there is one guy on Ebay that certifies his meters, giving you the sticker on your meter, and guarantees them for 7 days, I believe. Now that would be someone I would buy from. He also has 100% feedback.

Thanks for all your help.
Matt

JNG

Polkapolka

The lamp I use is just a cheap lamp that clamps to the workbench like
RS To•Go™ Enlite Task Lamp, Black Item # 320705 from office depot http://www.officedepot.com/a/products/320705/RS-To-Go-Enlite-Task-Lamp/
You can get anywhere. The magnifier I use is a head set type like # MV5 VISOR
http://www.action-electronics.com/magnifiers.htm#Headsets again I am sure you can find other places. I just went to the Internet and found some one selling like products.
For making cables the helping hands are nice and I must agree that they do tend to fall apart. I like using heat shrink tubing on my cables you may want to look into some.
I have also found different wire’s insulation melts at different temperature so be careful how hot you get your connections. Practice makes perfect your connections will get better the more you do.
Good luck

ViperZ

skrol wrote: »

I picked up a nice Fluke 187 off EB. It is much more meter than I need but you can never have too much precision and I got it for a great price.

The calibration should be good for a new meter. Mine was slightly used, still has the screen protector film, and had been calibrated before it was sold.

I would like to know how many of you do the professional calibration, as required, on their meters... (just because it costs almost as much as the meter, hehe).