Input level controls

rubin
rubin Posts: 565
edited May 2009 in 2 Channel Audio
When I adjust these nobs located on the amps rear plate,it raises/lowers speaker volumn.
My question is ,does this increase/ decrease input impedance as seen by the preamp? Why does the amp have these controls anyway?
Post edited by rubin on

Comments

  • ntculenuff
    ntculenuff Posts: 1,146
    edited April 2009
    it doesn't change what the pre-amp see's. they are gain/volume knobs to help level match the system if and when there is a difference in individual amp systems, as on powered sub woofers. for the most part you should just set them and not have to touch them again most pre-amps and receivers have a digital speaker level adjustment i'm sure some one else on here will be able to word it a bit better than i have.

    what amp and pre-amp is it?
    Speakers:
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  • rubin
    rubin Posts: 565
    edited April 2009
    I think that answers it quite well ....Thanks
    Nad c272 x2 Jolida tube pre.
  • steveinaz
    steveinaz Posts: 19,538
    edited April 2009
    Usually it's best to leave the amps gain at 100%. Probably has something to do with maximizing S/N ratio.
    Source: Bluesound Node 2i - Preamp/DAC: Benchmark DAC2 DX - Amp: Parasound Halo A21 - Speakers: MartinLogan Motion 60XTi - Shop Rig: Yamaha A-S501 Integrated - Shop Spkrs: Elac Debut 2.0 B5.2
  • Systems
    Systems Posts: 14,873
    edited April 2009
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  • rubin
    rubin Posts: 565
    edited April 2009
    The amps are used for passive bi-amping(vertical).For the bass drivers the gain is at 100%.For the tweets around 70% (I'm treble sensitive) Speakers are paradigm 100's v2 with metal dome tweeters.Just wondering if the imbalanced settings could harm the amps.
  • ben62670
    ben62670 Posts: 15,969
    edited April 2009
    steveinaz wrote: »
    Usually it's best to leave the amps gain at 100%. Probably has something to do with maximizing S/N ratio.

    Yes sir.
    Ben
    Please. Please contact me a ben62670 @ yahoo.com. Make sure to include who you are, and you are from Polk so I don't delete your email. Also I am now physically unable to work on any projects. If you need help let these guys know. There are many people who will help if you let them know where you are.
    Thanks
    Ben
  • Systems
    Systems Posts: 14,873
    edited April 2009
    No worries of it hurting the amps but the speakers won't sound the way their designer intended, but if you like it then thats all that matters.
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  • rubin
    rubin Posts: 565
    edited April 2009
    GV#27 wrote: »
    No worries of it hurting the amps but the speakers won't sound the way their designer intended, but if you like it then thats all that matters.

    Glad to hear that. I called paradigm asking if I could somehow replace the tweeters with soft/silk domes types.They said flat out no.
  • Systems
    Systems Posts: 14,873
    edited April 2009
    rubin wrote: »
    I called paradigm asking if I could somehow replace the tweeters with soft/silk domes types.They said flat out no.
    He He I'm not surprised you got that response from them.I have heard of others not liking that Paradigm tweet or aleast how they have voiced the top end of the systems using it.
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  • rubin
    rubin Posts: 565
    edited April 2009
    GV#27 wrote: »
    He He I'm not surprised you got that response from them.I have heard of others not liking that Paradigm tweet or aleast how they have voiced the top end of the systems using it.

    Some like'em others don't.I like a laid back sound .Cutting power to the top end along with the tube pre now gives me what I want.The only draw back I would say is less detail in the music,but I'll accept the trade-off.
    Thanks to all who replied.
  • Systems
    Systems Posts: 14,873
    edited April 2009
    btw I wasn't meaning to dis Paradigm as they are a world class company that have engineered many fine speakers.
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  • rubin
    rubin Posts: 565
    edited April 2009
    GV#27 wrote: »
    btw I wasn't meaning to dis Paradigm as they are a world class company that have engineered many fine speakers.

    No offence taken.I do like my 100's.I've owned them since 2000.The majority of reviewers favour them,I guess my ears have become more sensative(damaged?) to hi freq.Anyway like I said reducing power to the top end, with the expected trade-offs has satisfied me,although there are better alternatives eg.- different speakers amps etc.But for now this compromise is ok .
  • rubin
    rubin Posts: 565
    edited April 2009
    Does anyone know of a company that can build custom tweeters that I can install without butchering the cabinets, or can provide kits to change mine to soft dome types,for the Paradigm reference studio 100 v.2? I believe DarqueKnight was able to do something like this to the tweets in his sda's.
  • Face
    Face Posts: 14,340
    edited April 2009
    It's doubtful, but you can try contacting Madisound or Parts Express. If you can have someone measure the T&S parameters, maybe you could find a similar model that is more pleasing to your ears.

    Or, you could tweak the crossover. Adjusting resistance or using a different brand of caps may help. Do you have a schematic?
    "He who fights with monsters should look to it that he himself does not become a monster. And when you gaze long into an abyss the abyss also gazes into you." Friedrich Nietzsche
  • rubin
    rubin Posts: 565
    edited April 2009
    Face wrote: »
    It's doubtful, but you can try contacting Madisound or Parts Express. If you can have someone measure the T&S parameters, maybe you could find a similar model that is more pleasing to your ears.

    Or, you could tweak the crossover. Adjusting resistance or using a different brand of caps may help. Do you have a schematic?

    Good advice....thanks,If I add an in line resistor to the tweeter wire would that help , what value of resistance would I need and also to which lead + or -
  • Face
    Face Posts: 14,340
    edited April 2009
    The best way to do it would be to replace the current one with one of slightly higher resistance.
    "He who fights with monsters should look to it that he himself does not become a monster. And when you gaze long into an abyss the abyss also gazes into you." Friedrich Nietzsche
  • rubin
    rubin Posts: 565
    edited April 2009
    Face wrote: »
    The best way to do it would be to replace the current one with one of slightly higher resistance.

    I would rather not fool with the speakers crossover since I'm not an electronics guy.I just thought I could splice a resistor into one of the leads going to the tweeter to restrict power going to it thus reducing its output.I don't have a schematic nor could I read it.
  • Systems
    Systems Posts: 14,873
    edited April 2009
    You are achieving the exact same thing by turning down the level controls on the tweeter's amp.
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  • rubin
    rubin Posts: 565
    edited April 2009
    GV#27 wrote: »
    You are achieving the exact same thing by turning down the level controls on the tweeter's amp.

    Yes I know but it cuts power to the midrange driver also. So if I add extra resistance to the tweeter then I turn up the level on the amp to get more mids.Does this sound like a reasonable alternative?
  • tonyb
    tonyb Posts: 32,965
    edited April 2009
    A reasonable alternative to me is to get speakers you like.Simple....if the tweet doesn't agree with you,you'll never be happy.I too,am sensitive to high freq. that make your ears hurt after an hour of listening.I have found the Legacy brands,Montana brands,to be more up my alley and can listen for 8 plus hours with no fatigue.Go out an listen to some other speaks,try and buy a demo pair,may save some coin that way.The only other thing I can think of to tame your tweets is to try different cables.
    HT SYSTEM-
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  • Systems
    Systems Posts: 14,873
    edited April 2009
    rubin wrote: »
    Yes I know but it cuts power to the midrange driver also. So if I add extra resistance to the tweeter then I turn up the level on the amp to get more mids.Does this sound like a reasonable alternative?
    OK since both the midrange and tweeter share the same set of binding posts your only fix would be to modify the tweeters crossover,by changing a series resitor.
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  • rubin
    rubin Posts: 565
    edited April 2009
    tonyb wrote: »
    A reasonable alternative to me is to get speakers you like.Simple....if the tweet doesn't agree with you,you'll never be happy.I too,am sensitive to high freq. that make your ears hurt after an hour of listening.I have found the Legacy brands,Montana brands,to be more up my alley and can listen for 8 plus hours with no fatigue.Go out an listen to some other speaks,try and buy a demo pair,may save some coin that way.The only other thing I can think of to tame your tweets is to try different cables.

    Thanks ,only problem is no$$$$$$$, However I'll keep those brands in mind.
  • Face
    Face Posts: 14,340
    edited April 2009
    Typically the top posts are for the tweeter only, that's odd that they're for the mid also.
    "He who fights with monsters should look to it that he himself does not become a monster. And when you gaze long into an abyss the abyss also gazes into you." Friedrich Nietzsche
  • rubin
    rubin Posts: 565
    edited April 2009
    GV#27 wrote: »
    OK since both the midrange and tweeter share the same set of binding posts your only fix would be to modify the tweeters crossover,by changing a series resitor.

    Ok GV,Thats what I want to try,but I dont want to touch anything on the crossover board.Just want to cut a wire at the tweeter and install a resistor.
    But I dont know what size resistor to try.eg. 1,5,10 100 ohms?BTW where do u live I'm close to Niagara Falls In ONT.
  • rubin
    rubin Posts: 565
    edited April 2009
    Face wrote: »
    Typically the top posts are for the tweeter only, that's odd that they're for the mid also.

    YEP,two sets of posts, top one for the upper range (tweet and mid) lower for the twin bass drivers.It must be a board that splits the signal frequency to the appropriate driver I guess.
  • rubin
    rubin Posts: 565
    edited April 2009
    Was reading a post about the Jolida phono tubed preamp where he said there was a little grain to it.Then he removed the metal cylinders from around the tubes and found improvement.I have the Jolida tubed preamp with those same cylinders. The manual says nothing about them but I removed mine also......It took some of that bite out of the tweeters.Now i can listen with more comfort!!!!! It pays to read these posts.
  • rubin
    rubin Posts: 565
    edited April 2009
    Once again ,thanks to all who replied .I think I'll pour a couple beers into favourite my Hard Rock glass (from London England) Cheers.
  • rubin
    rubin Posts: 565
    edited April 2009
  • rubin
    rubin Posts: 565
    edited May 2009
    Just swapped in some Mullard CV4024's ...... Nice, warm ,smooth.