my potential hifonics setup - need some help

jh664322
jh664322 Posts: 2
edited April 2009 in Car Audio & Electronics
Hey everyone, first post. I'm trying to do a nice 12" sub setup, nothing crazy. I listen primarily to rap so a nice deep bass is preferred. Thus far, I am looking at Hifonics B12d2 sub and the Hifonics TXi7508 amp. I can get this for 283 shipped from onlinecarstereo.com (cheapest spot I've found). Is that a good setup?

My main question concerns the box. I previously had a jl 12w6 and a kenwood excelon amp, i think in the 700 peak wattage range. I was NOT happy with this setup at all, so I didn't care when I needed to sell it.

I still have the wiring in my car, so I'm ready to just buy a sub, box, and amp and be on my way.

Any advice from some more experienced people here? I have a scion tc, so my space is limited but I want a nice deep bass. Should I bother with a ported box or just get a sealed? Whats a loaded vs unloaded box?

Do I need a capacitor?

Thanks for info.
Post edited by jh664322 on

Comments

  • Jstas
    Jstas Posts: 14,804
    edited April 2009
    While that Brutus sub is inexpensive, I think it is not going to be well suited to what you want. For one thing, that amp is only good to 750 RMS watts at 1 ohm and that sub is good for 600 watts per coil RMS for a total of about 1200 watts RMS. That amp is not enough to power that sub.

    What I think you should do is ditch the Brutus sub and get one of these: http://www.polkaudio.com/caraudio/specs/specs/subs/db1240dvc/

    That will handle the power that amp can put out and if you put it in a ported box, you'll get all the boom you want out of it.
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  • only126db
    only126db Posts: 157
    edited April 2009
    Go with a Brutus or Zues series amp if running Hifonics unless you want to put out more cash go XXV series.

    I have heard the Titans are not very good at all.

    I run BXI and ZXI Hifonics amps.
  • jh664322
    jh664322 Posts: 2
    edited April 2009
    I'd prefer to stick with Hifonics because I'm familiar with it more than anything else and I have heard good things. How about the Hifonics BXI 1210D? It is rated at 1200watt rms at 1 ohm.
    http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductID=20598
    and the sub...
    http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductID=19744

    I'm confused though. The sub is rated for 600watt rms and the amp is 1200watt rms. Maybe I am missing something? Does dual voice coil mean you need 600rms per coil?

    Also, can I just buy a 12" ported box or does it need to be specific as far as the volume goes or other dimensions?
  • Jstas
    Jstas Posts: 14,804
    edited April 2009
    jh664322 wrote: »
    I'd prefer to stick with Hifonics because I'm familiar with it more than anything else and I have heard good things.

    Why did you come to a Polk Audio forum for advice then?


    My original suggestion still stands.
    Expert Moron Extraordinaire

    You're just jealous 'cause the voices don't talk to you!
  • cadenceclipse
    cadenceclipse Posts: 459
    edited April 2009
    good setup? as jstas and only said, no.
    loaded means box with sub, unloaded means only box.
    cap? what u need is some quality ish.
    yeah i think your def. missing something, most likely good tunes. sub is 600rms, 1200 peak, with that amp(seeing 1 ohm) you'll b giving it 1200wrms. that will work, probably not for long though...
    if sub is rated 600 and its dvc, that means 300/coil(rms)
    yeah, with setup like that, u could just throw in any old box, would it really matter?
    if u want advise your at the right place and your already getting advice from pros. listen up..
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  • 1996blackmax
    1996blackmax Posts: 2,436
    edited April 2009
    Having ample headroom is a nice thing, but having that much power over the RMS rating of the sub will require you to be both very conservative with your gains as well as the volume control.

    I ran an Arc amp that was putting out over 1000 RMS at 2ohms. I had it wired it up to my JL sub. At the time they were "rated" at 400 watts RMS, they now say 600 watts RMS. Either way, I have no issues with my sub, meaning I did no kill it.
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