My tube amp died today

dragon1952
dragon1952 Posts: 4,899
edited April 2009 in 2 Channel Audio
Crap! I turned it on to warm it up....about 15 minutes later I smelled something electrical burning. Looked over to see no lights on. The fuse was blown and when I opened it up I saw a fried resistor. Hopefully it's nothing serious. I've had it since 2005 and I have been so happy with it. I dragged my Yamaha receiver in from the living room until I can get it fixed and bleh.....:( it sucks in comparison. This is almost as bad as when you lose your internet access or your car.
2 channel - Willsenton R8 tube integrated, Holo Audio Spring 3 KTE DAC, audio optimized NUC7i5, Windows 10 Pro/JRiver MC29/Fidelizer Plus 8.7 w/LPS and external SSD drive, PS Audio PerfectWave P3 regenerator, KEF R3 speakers, Rythmik F12SE subwoofer, Audioquest Diamond USB cable, Gabriel Gold IC's, Morrow Audio SP5 speaker cables. Computer - Windows 10/JRiver, Schiit Magni 3+/Modi 3+, Fostex PMO.4n monitors, Sennheiser HD600 headphones
Post edited by dragon1952 on

Comments

  • Early B.
    Early B. Posts: 7,900
    edited April 2009
    Sorry to hear that. I hope it's nothing serious.

    Which tube amp do you have?
    HT/2-channel Rig: Sony 50” LCD TV; Toshiba HD-A2 DVD player; Emotiva LMC-1 pre/pro; Rogue Audio M-120 monoblocks (modded); Placette RVC; Emotiva LPA-1 amp; Bada HD-22 tube CDP (modded); VMPS Tower II SE (fronts); DIY Clearwave Dynamic 4CC (center); Wharfedale Opus Tri-Surrounds (rear); and VMPS 215 sub

    "God grooves with tubes."
  • george daniel
    george daniel Posts: 12,096
    edited April 2009
    Bummer,,mine is in the shop now for about a week,,kinda' hesitant to call and check.
    JC approves....he told me so. (F-1 nut)
  • HB27
    HB27 Posts: 1,518
    edited April 2009
    dragon1952 wrote: »
    Crap! I turned it on to warm it up....about 15 minutes later I smelled something electrical burning. Looked over to see no lights on. The fuse was blown and when I opened it up I saw a fried resistor. Hopefully it's nothing serious. I've had it since 2005 and I have been so happy with it. I dragged my Yamaha receiver in from the living room until I can get it fixed and bleh.....:( it sucks in comparison. This is almost as bad as when you lose your internet access or your car.

    Get the tube tester out and see if a bad tube was the problem causing the resistor to fry.
    IF you find a bad tube replace the tube, resistor and fuse and give it another go. I love tubes for sound and simplicity. Best of luck and my condolences.
    Harry
  • reeltrouble1
    reeltrouble1 Posts: 9,312
    edited April 2009
    sorry to hear Dragon. Well get her cleaned up with some new parts and you will be back in business.

    RT1
  • amulford
    amulford Posts: 5,020
    edited April 2009
    That blows. I would guess you had one of the tubes take a **** and fried it, too. Good luck...
  • engtaz
    engtaz Posts: 7,663
    edited April 2009
    That stinkys. Are you able to see the value of the resistor? Good Luck.
    engtaz

    I love how music can brighten up a bad day.
  • dragon1952
    dragon1952 Posts: 4,899
    edited April 2009
    This is the Ming Da MC 88-C. Yeah, each power tube socket has the same value resistor. I don't have a tube tester. I had noticed a very slight hum coming out of the right channel recently, where before it had been barely audible. I just thought of something though. I believe that's the same socket where I had a power tube go out last year. These tubes are just 13 months old and probably pretty close to the same number of hours on them as the previous tubes had when that one bit the dust.
    2 channel - Willsenton R8 tube integrated, Holo Audio Spring 3 KTE DAC, audio optimized NUC7i5, Windows 10 Pro/JRiver MC29/Fidelizer Plus 8.7 w/LPS and external SSD drive, PS Audio PerfectWave P3 regenerator, KEF R3 speakers, Rythmik F12SE subwoofer, Audioquest Diamond USB cable, Gabriel Gold IC's, Morrow Audio SP5 speaker cables. Computer - Windows 10/JRiver, Schiit Magni 3+/Modi 3+, Fostex PMO.4n monitors, Sennheiser HD600 headphones
  • BlueFox
    BlueFox Posts: 15,251
    edited April 2009
    That is one of the best things about tube equipment. It can go up in flames. When I was in the Navy I repaired the radar on the F4B, and it was a combination tube-solid state device. More than once, while running on the bench something would burn up. Great fun. While integrated circuits are much better overall, the thrill factor is missing.

    As we were taught in electronic school; Don't step on Superman's cape, and don't piss on B+
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    Three 20 amp circuits.
  • dragon1952
    dragon1952 Posts: 4,899
    edited April 2009
    BlueFox wrote: »
    That is one of the best things about tube equipment. It can go up in flames. When I was in the Navy I repaired the radar on the F4B, and it was a combination tube-solid state device. More than once, while running on the bench something would burn up. Great fun. While integrated circuits are much better overall, the thrill factor is missing....

    I don't know about that. I was working on a pcb from a laser scanner once with my boss looking over my shoulder. I fired it up after replacing a component and an IC blew up sending a smoking piece right over his head. He had to do the George W. Bush shoe-coming-at-you head fake, and we both went "Whoa!" :D
    2 channel - Willsenton R8 tube integrated, Holo Audio Spring 3 KTE DAC, audio optimized NUC7i5, Windows 10 Pro/JRiver MC29/Fidelizer Plus 8.7 w/LPS and external SSD drive, PS Audio PerfectWave P3 regenerator, KEF R3 speakers, Rythmik F12SE subwoofer, Audioquest Diamond USB cable, Gabriel Gold IC's, Morrow Audio SP5 speaker cables. Computer - Windows 10/JRiver, Schiit Magni 3+/Modi 3+, Fostex PMO.4n monitors, Sennheiser HD600 headphones
  • Ern Dog
    Ern Dog Posts: 2,237
    edited April 2009
    I keep a spare AVR around for that same purpose. I'm sure it's only a temporary thing.
  • Hawkeye
    Hawkeye Posts: 1,313
    edited April 2009
    BlueFox wrote: »
    That is one of the best things about tube equipment. It can go up in flames. When I was in the Navy I repaired the radar on the F4B, and it was a combination tube-solid state device. More than once, while running on the bench something would burn up. Great fun. While integrated circuits are much better overall, the thrill factor is missing.

    As we were taught in electronic school; Don't step on Superman's cape, and don't piss on B+

    Ahhh, the F4. You're lucky you worked AIMD. One night on the boat USS Ranger, me , being a young Airman walked past an F4 in Phase. They were doing Elevator checks and caught me right in the melon. 15 stiches and 1 night in sick bay taught me to stay as clear as I could of the UHT/Elevators.

    Gordon
    2 Channel -
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  • Hillbilly61
    Hillbilly61 Posts: 702
    edited April 2009
    dragon1952 wrote: »
    I believe that's the same socket where I had a power tube go out last year. These tubes are just 13 months old and probably pretty close to the same number of hours on them as the previous tubes had when that one bit the dust.

    That is probably a big indicator right there. (I'm very, very NOOB re tubes ... doing homework/reading/ etc so I can bring myself up to a knowlegable frenzy to want to delve into tube audio in a few months :D ). Research so far shows tubes all have a life with some brands/types not being much more than an incadescent light bulb. If you have been using your amp about the same amount (including just leaving it turned on), the tube could be just wearing out. Not sure why it would take out the resistor (and possibly other stuff) when bellying up.
  • engtaz
    engtaz Posts: 7,663
    edited April 2009
    The resister could have been the problem all along. Try replacing it and give it a try.
    engtaz

    I love how music can brighten up a bad day.
  • ViperZ
    ViperZ Posts: 2,046
    edited April 2009
    engtaz wrote: »
    The resister could have been the problem all along. Try replacing it and give it a try.

    Being a passive element, a resistor has a much smaller probability of failure compared to the tube. To make it sound more simple, resistor fail very very rarely. As someone mentioned, most likely it was the tube that failed, or the original tube that failed overstressed that resistor so much that it finally bit the dust.
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  • engtaz
    engtaz Posts: 7,663
    edited April 2009
    if a resistor is crack slightly, it will only get worse. I have them be a problem before but I usually replace it last but the failure rate is small.
    engtaz

    I love how music can brighten up a bad day.
  • dragon1952
    dragon1952 Posts: 4,899
    edited April 2009
    From what I have been able to gather, the tube likely took the resistor out.
    2 channel - Willsenton R8 tube integrated, Holo Audio Spring 3 KTE DAC, audio optimized NUC7i5, Windows 10 Pro/JRiver MC29/Fidelizer Plus 8.7 w/LPS and external SSD drive, PS Audio PerfectWave P3 regenerator, KEF R3 speakers, Rythmik F12SE subwoofer, Audioquest Diamond USB cable, Gabriel Gold IC's, Morrow Audio SP5 speaker cables. Computer - Windows 10/JRiver, Schiit Magni 3+/Modi 3+, Fostex PMO.4n monitors, Sennheiser HD600 headphones
  • disneyjoe7
    disneyjoe7 Posts: 11,435
    edited April 2009
    For that resistor to fail like that, it wasn't the only thing that failed. ;)

    Speakers
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    RT800i's Rears
    Sub Paradigm Servo 15

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  • HB27
    HB27 Posts: 1,518
    edited April 2009
    dragon1952 wrote: »
    From what I have been able to gather, the tube likely took the resistor out.

    It's more than possible it was the tube causing the problem.
    As previously stated some tubes have a short life. That's due to a couple of issues. Quality of the tube is the first issue. Some tubes are NOT made for higher voltages and are designed and used as a minimum option for original equipment. Cost always being a factor and manufacturers cut cost wherever feasible.
    Tube bias is critical to tube life. Some amps are biased to the max to get max output and "boost" the numbers game. Bias is a major cause of tube failure.
    Without opening up a can of worms here, Experience has taught me over the last decade or so that the cheap re-issues won't give long life and I'll only use them as a last resort until I can find a good NOS or good used vintage tubes. It's not always possible(cost-availability) and when I use re-issue tubes I keep a very close watch on bias as it's the heart of keeping tubes and circuits healthy. Also, I think that anyone with tube gear should use a tester on your tubes regularly. Also it's a good idea to keep a record of test results on each tube and socket placement.
    There's not many set rules to follow just basic guidelines and precautionary moves.
    Any part can fail at any time. A qualified tech is always the best bet if possible to make sure there aren't other issues causing this problem or as a result of the blown resistor. It's easy to guess what happened but until you actually run the problem down you won't know for sure and are just "rolling the dice".
    Good luck with the repair and let us know what the final results yield.
    Harry
  • dragon1952
    dragon1952 Posts: 4,899
    edited April 2009
    I've ordered a new quad of EH KT88's. That's what I had previously and I really don't want to change the sound. On the suggestions from a tech I've been exchanging emails with, I will replace the screen resistors with 5W wire wounds. I have measured all the surrounding resistors and they all look good. The recommended bias for my amp is 41 mA, which is well within the 37-50mA spec for the KT88. I will be more conscientious about checking the bias this time.
    2 channel - Willsenton R8 tube integrated, Holo Audio Spring 3 KTE DAC, audio optimized NUC7i5, Windows 10 Pro/JRiver MC29/Fidelizer Plus 8.7 w/LPS and external SSD drive, PS Audio PerfectWave P3 regenerator, KEF R3 speakers, Rythmik F12SE subwoofer, Audioquest Diamond USB cable, Gabriel Gold IC's, Morrow Audio SP5 speaker cables. Computer - Windows 10/JRiver, Schiit Magni 3+/Modi 3+, Fostex PMO.4n monitors, Sennheiser HD600 headphones
  • dragon1952
    dragon1952 Posts: 4,899
    edited April 2009
    Problem is fixed! A 19 cent repair....woo hoo! Well......plus $125 for new power tubes anyway. Replaced the fried resistor, and powered up without tubes...checked all the voltages and everything looked fine. Put the new tubes in and biased them to .41v, then let it sit for about an hour. Checked the bias again and it was right on, so I fired up some tunes and I was back in business. No more hum in the right channel either ;)
    2 channel - Willsenton R8 tube integrated, Holo Audio Spring 3 KTE DAC, audio optimized NUC7i5, Windows 10 Pro/JRiver MC29/Fidelizer Plus 8.7 w/LPS and external SSD drive, PS Audio PerfectWave P3 regenerator, KEF R3 speakers, Rythmik F12SE subwoofer, Audioquest Diamond USB cable, Gabriel Gold IC's, Morrow Audio SP5 speaker cables. Computer - Windows 10/JRiver, Schiit Magni 3+/Modi 3+, Fostex PMO.4n monitors, Sennheiser HD600 headphones
  • disneyjoe7
    disneyjoe7 Posts: 11,435
    edited April 2009
    Nice, funny but a $.19 resistor cost is all that schooling you had to know what to fix and why. That was the total cost.

    Glad to see you fixed it. :)

    Speakers
    Carver Amazing Fronts
    CS400i Center
    RT800i's Rears
    Sub Paradigm Servo 15

    Electronics
    Conrad Johnson PV-5 pre-amp
    Parasound Halo A23
    Pioneer 84TXSi AVR
    Pioneer 79Avi DVD
    Sony CX400 CD changer
    Panasonic 42-PX60U Plasma
    WMC Win7 32bit HD DVR


  • HB27
    HB27 Posts: 1,518
    edited April 2009
    Glad to hear you got 'er up and running. Keep close watch on the bias every few hours until you're sure that they'll stay stable.
    New tubes can surprise ya at any time.
    Harry
  • Blownrx7
    Blownrx7 Posts: 137
    edited April 2009
    dragon1952 wrote: »
    Problem is fixed! A 19 cent repair....woo hoo! Well......plus $125 for new power tubes anyway. Replaced the fried resistor, and powered up without tubes...checked all the voltages and everything looked fine. Put the new tubes in and biased them to .41v, then let it sit for about an hour. Checked the bias again and it was right on, so I fired up some tunes and I was back in business. No more hum in the right channel either ;)

    Did you ever test the old tubes? Or, did you at least test the tube that was attached to the blown resistor?
    Most electronics repair places still have tube testers. They may charge you a few bucks but it is better than throwing out a potentially good tube or, worse, putting in a bad tube and watching fireworks again.
  • organ
    organ Posts: 4,969
    edited April 2009
    Sounds good. Glad to hear it's working again. It was probably a short in the tube.
  • dragon1952
    dragon1952 Posts: 4,899
    edited April 2009
    Blownrx7 wrote: »
    Did you ever test the old tubes? Or, did you at least test the tube that was attached to the blown resistor?
    Most electronics repair places still have tube testers. They may charge you a few bucks but it is better than throwing out a potentially good tube or, worse, putting in a bad tube and watching fireworks again.

    Believe me, I wouldn't put the old tubes back in without having them tested. Also, I live in a remote area. We're probably lucky to have a Radio Shack :rolleyes: I may send them off somewhere though. I've got the first set (JJ's) that blew one that I'd like tested too.
    2 channel - Willsenton R8 tube integrated, Holo Audio Spring 3 KTE DAC, audio optimized NUC7i5, Windows 10 Pro/JRiver MC29/Fidelizer Plus 8.7 w/LPS and external SSD drive, PS Audio PerfectWave P3 regenerator, KEF R3 speakers, Rythmik F12SE subwoofer, Audioquest Diamond USB cable, Gabriel Gold IC's, Morrow Audio SP5 speaker cables. Computer - Windows 10/JRiver, Schiit Magni 3+/Modi 3+, Fostex PMO.4n monitors, Sennheiser HD600 headphones
  • tom t
    tom t Posts: 543
    edited April 2009
    this is why my next amp will be solid state. if dragon1952 dident know how to fix it on his own,the shop would of been at least $100