Polyswitch on RTA 12C How to jump

geppy1
geppy1 Posts: 3,075
edited April 2009 in Vintage Speakers
Here is a picture of the top crossover on an RTA 12C What two wires do I jump?? Is it the two into the blue item or the 2 into the little box next to it. A fuse holder is in that spot on my 12Bs Thanks,Keith
Post edited by geppy1 on

Comments

  • ben62670
    ben62670 Posts: 15,969
    edited April 2009
    The blue thing is the Poly switch. You can just twist it if you want and place a drop of solder on it. The Box looking thing is a resistor.
    Please. Please contact me a ben62670 @ yahoo.com. Make sure to include who you are, and you are from Polk so I don't delete your email. Also I am now physically unable to work on any projects. If you need help let these guys know. There are many people who will help if you let them know where you are.
    Thanks
    Ben
  • rmaiers
    rmaiers Posts: 145
    edited April 2009
    I have a pair of RTA-12Cs. What benefit do you get by bypassing the polyswitch? Doesn't this defeat the tweeter speaker protection?
  • zingo
    zingo Posts: 11,258
    edited April 2009
    It does defeat the tweeter protection, but unless you overdrive your speakers or clip your amp, the polyswitch is not providing your speakers any service. If you're not using it, it's just another component in the signal path, and I found it unnecessary.
  • geppy1
    geppy1 Posts: 3,075
    edited April 2009
    Thanks Ben You the man!! keith
  • rmaiers
    rmaiers Posts: 145
    edited April 2009
    I've been blowing the .75 amp tweeter protection fuse in my RTA-12B speakers if I get to a little less than 12:00 (half volume), usually after about 10 minutes. I'm using a Hafler DH-500 power amp (255 watt/ch into 8 ohm load).

    Does this sound like a problem with the speakers or is this amp just too powerful?
  • Dawgfish
    Dawgfish Posts: 2,554
    edited April 2009
    I've been running 250 wpc chanel (Monster Power MPA 3250) into my RTA-12Bs and listening to it at loud levels with no problems. Of course it's always a good idea to be on the cautious side with volume levels, especially if the fuses are constantly blowing, but there could be some other issues going on there (drivers, crossovers,etc)..
  • dcmeigs
    dcmeigs Posts: 708
    edited April 2009
    rmaiers wrote: »
    I've been blowing the .75 amp tweeter protection fuse in my RTA-12B speakers if I get to a little less than 12:00 (half volume), usually after about 10 minutes. I'm using a Hafler DH-500 power amp (255 watt/ch into 8 ohm load).

    Does this sound like a problem with the speakers or is this amp just too powerful?

    Could be a problem with your crossover. Is it just one speaker or both?
    The world is full of answers, some are right and some are wrong. - Neil Young
  • rmaiers
    rmaiers Posts: 145
    edited April 2009
    Usually both fuses go simultaneously.
  • NJPOLKER
    NJPOLKER Posts: 3,474
    edited April 2009
    Your over driving the receiver/amplifier which leads to clipping then blown fuses or tweeters. Good clean power, not watts per channel is the key.
  • rmaiers
    rmaiers Posts: 145
    edited April 2009
    The Hafler is noted for providing lots of good clean power and I have had it checked out by a Hafler tech who said it still meets and exceeds its design specs. Since the RTA12Bs are 4 ohm speakers that dip below 4 at some frequencies, the Hafler could be sending approximately 500 watts.
  • NJPOLKER
    NJPOLKER Posts: 3,474
    edited April 2009
    I stand by what I said, I've been wrong before but I don't think I am in this case.
  • rmaiers
    rmaiers Posts: 145
    edited April 2009
    Have you ever blown the fuses in your RTA12Bs?
  • NJPOLKER
    NJPOLKER Posts: 3,474
    edited April 2009
    Don't have 12's Back in the day when I ran Monitor 10's I'd blow the 1 amp fast blow fuses when I over drove the amplifier/receiver.
    I don't believe its the amount of power that ever blow fuses or tweeters.
  • geppy1
    geppy1 Posts: 3,075
    edited April 2009
    He is correct. It is a distorted signal that blows the fuses or a sudden spike or overload. The distortion may not be super obvious.