TUNE up CARS?

doggie750

How often do you normally do this, can u recycle the rotor/ distributor caps by simply cleaning it. Do you really have to replace the ignition wire? I guess I am a cheapo.....:o
NAaH.....i'll rather spend my time tuning my HT gears:)

greg2350

Yes I have done this many times I use steel wool if the contacts are worn to much then you will have to replace.

Pauly

if the wires are dry rotted you will want to replace.

Joe08867

I have gone the route of cleaning the contacts on the distributor but I always replace the rotor and wires. Especially if there is any signs of dry rot on the wires.

Just look out for burns on the distributor.

Face

Cars still come with caps and rotors?

WilliamM2

I replaced the cap and rotor on mine, it's only about $15, and according to the manual, good for 50,000 miles. The last couple of cars I have owned, came from the factory with silicone wires, never had to replace them.

Jeb85

For the price of parts it is worth putting all new parts on when you do a tune up. I have seen many cars come back that just had plugs replaced. In my opinion just replace the cap rotor wires and plugs. Cap and rotor usually come together and are cheap.

Systems

For the cheapo route you can clean the contacts on the cap and rotor. BUT these do have a gap just like a spark plug and the transfer of energy between the two will screw with the timing to a degree and the faster it turns the more it will screw with the transfer as in a weaker energy flow. Wires will breakdown resistance over time. These may look fine and appear to be in great shape but may be lacking the ability to deliver the spark also. Spend the money on the parts or pay for it at the pump. Your car/truck may seem to run smooth and drive fine, but I'll bet you are not getting the full potential from the engine.

fast1

may i ask what are the cap rotor wires for?

wizzy

Don't forget to adjust your points & replace the condensor! :D

Systems

wizzy wrote: »

Don't forget to adjust your points & replace the condensor! :D

Set points dwell BEFORE timing. Be sure to disconnect the advance vacuum line to the distributor first. Then reconnect and check for total advance at spec'd rpm. Never rely on a fancy advanced timing light. I like to stick a piece of solid core wire inside the boot of the plug wire to the #1 spark plug and hold the other end close to the timing pointer to allow for an arc of the spark to light the timing pointer. This way you don't have to allow for the speed of light to reach the timing pointer.

Test the condensor by loading it first with a charge from the battery. Then toss to a friend and have them catch it. If they yell and start chasing you then the condensor is actually fine. But you'll probably need to replace it anyway since said condensor is now lost in the battle that will surely result from the test. This is where the old spak plugs come in handy as you can actually recycle them by throwing them at your attacking assistant.