Diagnostics required 2.3 TL's
solidclub
Posts: 39
Hey guys,
A few of you replied to my last post about replacing tweeters in 2.3TL's.
However I am not convinced that the tweets are the problem.
Initially I was concerned because I was getting crackle through the
top left tweet. I left the speakers for a few months and came back
to them today, and started by swapping the bottom and top tweets
on the left speaker, to see if that would resolve the issue.
The result was crackle straight away, and then it sounded like I was
getting no sound out of any of the three tweets. On increase of volume,
the tweets would cut in and out with crackle, like the sound was trying
to break through over a bad connection. I swapped the channels and
the problem stayed with the left speaker.
What do we think is the problem and what should I do next diagnostically?
Cheers guys,
Alex.
A few of you replied to my last post about replacing tweeters in 2.3TL's.
However I am not convinced that the tweets are the problem.
Initially I was concerned because I was getting crackle through the
top left tweet. I left the speakers for a few months and came back
to them today, and started by swapping the bottom and top tweets
on the left speaker, to see if that would resolve the issue.
The result was crackle straight away, and then it sounded like I was
getting no sound out of any of the three tweets. On increase of volume,
the tweets would cut in and out with crackle, like the sound was trying
to break through over a bad connection. I swapped the channels and
the problem stayed with the left speaker.
What do we think is the problem and what should I do next diagnostically?
Cheers guys,
Alex.
Post edited by solidclub on
Comments
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It sounds like a crossover problem. Have you upgraded your crossovers yet? The polyswitch maybe cutting in and out.
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My thought was the problem may be some component of the crossover.
As far as I know, the crossovers in both speakers are original.
My next question of course is, where is the crossover located within
the cabinet and how does one access it?
Is it a job that I (with limited electronics experience) could attempt,
or do I need professional assistance?
Cheers,
Alex. -
yep,, it may be in the crossover,I'm assuming that you have swapped cables,etc and the problem stays with that speaker.Like Joe says,maybe the polyswitch--looks likeyou're going in,,good luck,keep us postedJC approves....he told me so. (F-1 nut)
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Yep, it's the polyswitch.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Thanks for all your help guys.
I will be "going in" to the cabinets after work tonight, and can't
wait for the "fun" that someone mentioned to start! Haha.
What is the consensus on complete removal of the polyswitches?
Is it a level of protection that one really requires? I am quite careful
with volume and never push the amp beyond halfway.
If I am to replace the switches, will I have to source these from
Polk?
Thanks again,
Alex. -
And so you guys are right, once again!
I have pictures to follow, but last night I ventured into the
left monolith, and pulled out one pristine crossover.
A friend who is handy with the soldering iron assisted, and we
gingerly bridged the polyswitch on the underside of the PCB
with a small length of copper wire.
Problem solved! The tweeters are singing loud and clear again!
So back to my question in the last post, does one really need
polyswitches in the crossover?
If so, do I go through Polk to get them, bearing in mind I am in
Sydney, Australia?
Cheers,
Alex. -
Just think of the polyswitch as the "tweeter protection" circuit,, if you are responsible with the volume control, and don't clip your amp,you should be fine,,if you have any doubts,,replace em'. Good luck,let us know.
Call Polk/E-mail, and ask nicely,and they just might send you a pair,,since you're "down under".:)JC approves....he told me so. (F-1 nut) -
A friend who is handy with the soldering iron assisted, and we
gingerly bridged the polyswitch on the underside of the PCB
with a small length of copper wire.
Just remove them and either jump with wire or replace with a 0.5 ohm, 5 or 12 watt resistor to maintain the original sound signature.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk