270uF Solen Cans

NJPOLKER
NJPOLKER Posts: 3,474
edited March 2009 in Vintage Speakers
I ordered these from Solen @ $34.46 each for my SDA2a's
Thanks GV for the heads up on the sale price. Biggest cans I've seen yet :)
Post edited by NJPOLKER on
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  • davidfmartin
    davidfmartin Posts: 106
    edited March 2009
    So which one is the capacitor?

    SDA's prefer homebrew.
    My journey: http://www.1414audio.com/
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  • Toolfan66
    Toolfan66 Posts: 17,332
    edited March 2009
    davidfmartin wrote: »
    So which one is the capacitor?

    SDA's prefer homebrew.

    David, I live in Littleton. Your name struck a bell with me, We have a costomer by the name of Dave Martin.
    Polk Audio SDA 2.3tl Fully Hot Rodded. 😎

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  • Face
    Face Posts: 14,340
    edited March 2009
    It's not the size that counts. :D
    "He who fights with monsters should look to it that he himself does not become a monster. And when you gaze long into an abyss the abyss also gazes into you." Friedrich Nietzsche
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  • Systems
    Systems Posts: 14,873
    edited March 2009
    Wow NJ them's big'ns.I have some 15,000uf 63 volt lytics that are only about a third as big.
    Face wrote: »
    It's not the size that counts. :D
    Thats just what those with tiny little caps would have you believe.:D
    Testing
    Testing
    Testing
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  • davidfmartin
    davidfmartin Posts: 106
    edited March 2009
    Probably not me. What do you sell? I'm thinking we should have a Colorado Polkfest.
    TOOLFORLIFEFAN wrote: »
    David, I live in Littleton. Your name struck a bell with me, We have a costomer by the name of Dave Martin.
    My journey: http://www.1414audio.com/
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  • inspiredsports
    inspiredsports Posts: 5,501
    edited March 2009
    NJPOLKER wrote: »
    I ordered these from Solen @ $34.46 each for my SDA2a's
    Thanks GV for the heads up on the sale price. Biggest cans I've seen yet :)

    Amazing. I need four 260uf's for an old Polk Mobile (automobile) crossover project, but the originals fit in a black box and are about 5/8" X 1-1/4" so I'm in big trouble.
    VTL ST50 w/mods / RCA6L6GC / TlfnknECC801S
    Conrad Johnson PV-5 w/mods
    TT Conrad Johnson Sonographe SG3 Oak / Sumiko LMT / Grado Woodbody Platinum / Sumiko PIB2 / The Clamp
    Musical Fidelity A1 CDPro/ Bada DD-22 Tube CDP / Conrad Johnson SD-22 CDP
    Tuners w/mods Kenwood KT5020 / Fisher KM60
    MF x-DAC V8, HAInfo NG27
    Herbies Ti-9 / Vibrapods / MIT Shotgun AC1 IEC's / MIT Shotgun 2 IC's / MIT Shotgun 2 Speaker Cables
    PS Audio Cryo / PowerPort Premium Outlets / Exact Power EP15A Conditioner
    Walnut SDA 2B TL /Oak SDA SRS II TL (Sonicaps/Mills/Cardas/Custom SDA ICs / Dynamat Extreme / Larry's Rings/ FSB-2 Spikes
    NAD SS rigs w/mods
    GIK panels
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  • ben62670
    ben62670 Posts: 15,969
    edited March 2009
    Tip:
    Be careful not to drink the Solen can. If the lead is extended you can poke your eye out.
    Please. Please contact me a ben62670 @ yahoo.com. Make sure to include who you are, and you are from Polk so I don't delete your email. Also I am now physically unable to work on any projects. If you need help let these guys know. There are many people who will help if you let them know where you are.
    Thanks
    Ben
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  • Disc Jockey
    Disc Jockey Posts: 1,013
    edited March 2009
    I want to see the pic after it's installed
    "The secret of happiness is freedom. The secret of freedom is courage." Thucydides
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  • Face
    Face Posts: 14,340
    edited March 2009
    No canned beer in this house.

    mundorf220uf.jpg
    "He who fights with monsters should look to it that he himself does not become a monster. And when you gaze long into an abyss the abyss also gazes into you." Friedrich Nietzsche
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  • bcline
    bcline Posts: 59
    edited March 2009
    NJ, I ordered a set of these for my SDA 2As as well. I had no idea they would be that big. How do you plan to install these? There isn't enough room on the circuit board.
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  • Ender
    Ender Posts: 603
    edited March 2009
    I would be curious about this as well because I just got my SDA 2A and would love to tweak them.

    EDIT: Nvm. I see it in the other thread about the XO.
    SDA 1C, SDA 2A, SDA SRS 2, CMT-340SE, Swan M200MKII, Swan D1080MKII, Behringer MS40

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  • inspiredsports
    inspiredsports Posts: 5,501
    edited March 2009
    It's not the same speaker, but here is how I added large Aeon caps to my SDA SRS 2's in Post #34 http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?t=74946.

    I gently compressed the caps into open dense foam like that used under caps on circuit boards and drilled two holes in the mdf brace through which I ran nylon zip ties to cinch the caps down into the foam.
    VTL ST50 w/mods / RCA6L6GC / TlfnknECC801S
    Conrad Johnson PV-5 w/mods
    TT Conrad Johnson Sonographe SG3 Oak / Sumiko LMT / Grado Woodbody Platinum / Sumiko PIB2 / The Clamp
    Musical Fidelity A1 CDPro/ Bada DD-22 Tube CDP / Conrad Johnson SD-22 CDP
    Tuners w/mods Kenwood KT5020 / Fisher KM60
    MF x-DAC V8, HAInfo NG27
    Herbies Ti-9 / Vibrapods / MIT Shotgun AC1 IEC's / MIT Shotgun 2 IC's / MIT Shotgun 2 Speaker Cables
    PS Audio Cryo / PowerPort Premium Outlets / Exact Power EP15A Conditioner
    Walnut SDA 2B TL /Oak SDA SRS II TL (Sonicaps/Mills/Cardas/Custom SDA ICs / Dynamat Extreme / Larry's Rings/ FSB-2 Spikes
    NAD SS rigs w/mods
    GIK panels
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  • NJPOLKER
    NJPOLKER Posts: 3,474
    edited March 2009
    As soon as I get a chance to get my "audio on" I'll do the upgrades and post pictures. Probably next week, if all goes well over the next couple days.
    Drew
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  • zingo
    zingo Posts: 11,258
    edited March 2009
    Just use your shrink ray to get the caps on the board. :p

    ShrunkMoranis2.jpeg
    Jake
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  • bcline
    bcline Posts: 59
    edited March 2009
    I'm still waiting for mine to show... I ordered them the same day as you did, but they have to make it to Kansas instead of NJ. Hope they get here soon so I can get started... They charged my credit card so I assume they had still had two in stock for me. :(
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  • NJPOLKER
    NJPOLKER Posts: 3,474
    edited March 2009
    It was an easy job. After removing the existing caps and marking the holes so you know where the new caps are to be soldered you are ready to dry fit the caps. I removed the original foam tape and replaced it with new foam just prior to soldering. I think you can see in the pictures where I bent the leads so I could get them aligned with the holes. Its not difficult just be gentle and use needle nose pliers. I kinda centered the 270uF so it get support and mounted the 20uF on top. I had to extend the leads since I took the 20uF from the high pass x-over from this speaker. Using a new cap you will probably have to extend the leads too. After lengthening the leads I simply soldered them into place. After allowing the solder to set I hot melted the 270uF and 20uF together to help stabilize them. I also ran a bead of hot melt between the 20uF and the inductor.
    Thats it, I think!
    Now I am going to order some Sonicaps for the High Pass, or if anyone has another idea for me please let me know.

    I missed one or two pictures I'll add in another post.

    Thats my angel receiving a reward at school :)
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  • NJPOLKER
    NJPOLKER Posts: 3,474
    edited March 2009
    A couple more pictures.
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  • ben62670
    ben62670 Posts: 15,969
    edited March 2009
    She's a cutie Drew:) Are you going to reinforce the connection of the board to the coil? That big cap is going to put a lot of stress on those plastic stand offs.
    Ben
    Please. Please contact me a ben62670 @ yahoo.com. Make sure to include who you are, and you are from Polk so I don't delete your email. Also I am now physically unable to work on any projects. If you need help let these guys know. There are many people who will help if you let them know where you are.
    Thanks
    Ben
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  • NJPOLKER
    NJPOLKER Posts: 3,474
    edited March 2009
    Ben,
    I have not given that part any thought, yet!! HHMMMMMMMMMM what do you suggest?
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  • ben62670
    ben62670 Posts: 15,969
    edited March 2009
    Maybe a zip tie in place of the top stand off? Some hot glue to sucure just the top one or two stand offs so it/they can't pull loose?
    Please. Please contact me a ben62670 @ yahoo.com. Make sure to include who you are, and you are from Polk so I don't delete your email. Also I am now physically unable to work on any projects. If you need help let these guys know. There are many people who will help if you let them know where you are.
    Thanks
    Ben
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  • NJPOLKER
    NJPOLKER Posts: 3,474
    edited March 2009
    I just looked it all over again and things look/feel real stable. That does not mean after time things won't loosen up.
    This brings up a good point. Always be careful not to butcher-up the posts when opening up the x-over. The strength of the posts are easily degraded by unnecessary force used to squeeze the little barbs. And when putting things back together not to force things since this will weaken the posts.
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  • mmadden28
    mmadden28 Posts: 4,283
    edited March 2009
    Yeah, you have to take into consideration when the things are moved-extra stress there. I remember reading a lot of that kind of concern when I built my PC, specifically in choosing a CPU heatsink/fan. If the motherboard is vertical, the weight of the heatsink might be supported by teh motherboard, but if you move the PC the extra stress can kill it. It was always recommended to remove the heatsink before movig the PC. So I would imagine the same logic would come into play here.

    How much do those big cans weigh?
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  • NJPOLKER
    NJPOLKER Posts: 3,474
    edited March 2009
    Each 270uF weighs 9 to 10 oz. thats what the folks at Solen told me.
    hhhmmmmmm I didn't think it weighed as much as a can of Bud :D
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