Passive rattle w/ stripped screws
dagame27
Posts: 576
I have recently heard an intermediate rattle in my SRS 2's. Upon examination, it's coming from the left passive radiator. I also noticed that two screws aren't grabbing. Using search, I found that Noel (ND13) had the same issue, (these are his old speakers), which ended up being a loose crossover. I am going to mess with that this weekend, but was wondering if there is anything I can do about fixing the screws. I am not very skilled when it comes to this kind of stuff, so hopefully it is not too difficult.
ChrisPreamp: Anthem Pre 2L (Jan-Phillips Green) Processor: Marantz SR7012 Amp: B&K 200.5Streaming: Bluesound Node 2IDAC: Eastern Electric Minimax Plus4K Bluray: Panasonic UB820Mains: Von Schweikert VR2Center: Von Schweikert LCR15 Subs: 2 SVS Sb13 Ultra (HT Only) Analysis Plus Cables
Post edited by dagame27 on
Comments
-
I would fill the holes with wood putty, packing them as tightly as possible, and then redrill some new pilot holes and reinstall the screwsThe Gear... Carver "Statement" Mono-blocks, Mcintosh C2300 Arcam AVR20, Oppo UDP-203 4K Blu-ray player, Sony XBR70x850B 4k, Polk Audio Legend L800 with height modules, L400 Center Channel Polk audio AB800 "in-wall" surrounds. Marantz MM7025 stereo amp. Simaudio Moon 680d DSD
“When once a Republic is corrupted, there is no possibility of remedying any of the growing evils but by removing the corruption and restoring its lost principles; every other correction is either useless or a new evil.”— Thomas Jefferson -
Or you could stick a toothpick [part of] in the hole and screw it back in for a temporary fix.~ In search of accurate reproduction of music. Real sound is my reference and while perfection may not be attainable? If I chase it, I might just catch excellence. ~
-
Hardwood dowels is another solid repair. Drill a hole and glue them in, then drill the screw hole. Either buy a dowel rod and cut to length, or purchase a bag of splined dowel rods in various diameters at the hardware store.Salk SoundScape 8's * Audio Research Reference 3 * Bottlehead Eros Phono * Park's Audio Budgie SUT * Krell KSA-250 * Harmonic Technology Pro 9+ * Signature Series Sonore Music Server w/Deux PS * Roon * Gustard R26 DAC / Singxer SU-6 DDC * Heavy Plinth Lenco L75 Idler Drive * AA MG-1 Linear Air Bearing Arm * AT33PTG/II & Denon 103R * Richard Gray 600S * NHT B-12d subs * GIK Acoustic Treatments * Sennheiser HD650 *
-
set the speaker on its back and put some tape over the hole on back to prevent glue from running out then squirt some elmers glue in the hole and let it dry. re-drill pilot holes and then put the screw back in but hand tighten the screws be careful not to overtighten. it worked fine for me.
-
SCompRacer wrote: »Hardwood dowels is another solid repair.
That is the ONLY proper way to repair the damage. Nothing else is worth the bother.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
If you feel like replacing all of them.
http://www.madisound.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=404_18_393&products_id=350
"He who fights with monsters should look to it that he himself does not become a monster. And when you gaze long into an abyss the abyss also gazes into you." Friedrich Nietzsche -
-
Two things I would recommend:
Remove the passive
1.Carpenters glue (kinda yellow) and a few toothpicks, fill the hole tightly with the toothpicks dipped first in the glue. Wait for the glue to dry and cut off the exposed ends with an endcutter. Sand or file the surface smooth.
2.Match up a drill bit to the screw you are using. Do this by holding the screw over the bit and make sure that at least the screw threads are wider than the drill bit. You want to make sure that the screw shank is slightly larger that the diameter of the drill bit.
or
Abandon the exising mounting holes.
Rotate the passive radiator about an inch and mark all of the holes and redrill. Remount the passive. The speakers gasket will bridge the old holes. Don't overtighten, just snug them you don't need to crank down, you don't want to compress / flatten the gasket hard to the speaker mount.
MY2c FWIWHome Theater
Amp: sunfire cinema grand signature 5ch 425 wpc
Side surround amp: Sunfire 2 X 300
Processor: sunfire theater grand V
Fronts:: polk sda-srs 1.2
Rears: Polk LSiFX
Side surrounds: Fxi5
Center: (2)polk LSiC's
Sub: svs pb-13 rosenut
Hd-Dvd: toshiba xa-2
Blue Ray: oppo bdp83se
Projector: sony vw60
Screen: Da-Lite 106"
APC S20 Power conditioner -
I've been noticing a rattle coming from one of my 7A's lately. It only occurs when I have it really cranked up, like way above my normal listening level, or during really deep bass passages. I finally got around to tracking it down, and it turns out that one of the screw holes on the tweeter is stripped out.:(
I don't really wanna fix it with the toothpick method, so I'm gonna have to pick up a hardwood dowel and fix it properly.:)The nirvana inducer-
APC H10 Power Conditioner
Marantz UD5005 universal player
Parasound Halo P5 preamp
Parasound HCA-1200II power amp
PolkAudio LSi9's/PolkAudio SDA 2A's/PolkAudio Monitor 7A's
Audioquest Speaker Cables and IC's -
comfortablycurt wrote: »I've been noticing a rattle coming from one of my 7A's lately. It only occurs when I have it really cranked up, like way above my normal listening level, or during really deep bass passages. I finally got around to tracking it down, and it turns out that one of the screw holes on the tweeter is stripped out.:(
I don't really wanna fix it with the toothpick method, so I'm gonna have to pick up a hardwood dowel and fix it properly.:)
I think an MRI would reveal the true cause as being a case of a loose nut operating your system:D:pThe Gear... Carver "Statement" Mono-blocks, Mcintosh C2300 Arcam AVR20, Oppo UDP-203 4K Blu-ray player, Sony XBR70x850B 4k, Polk Audio Legend L800 with height modules, L400 Center Channel Polk audio AB800 "in-wall" surrounds. Marantz MM7025 stereo amp. Simaudio Moon 680d DSD
“When once a Republic is corrupted, there is no possibility of remedying any of the growing evils but by removing the corruption and restoring its lost principles; every other correction is either useless or a new evil.”— Thomas Jefferson -
That is the ONLY proper way to repair the damage. Nothing else is worth the bother.
My guess as to why he is THE PRES.
:cool: -
comfortablycurt wrote: »I don't really wanna fix it with the toothpick method, so I'm gonna have to pick up a hardwood dowel and fix it properly.:)
Sometimes tunes are really that important.~ In search of accurate reproduction of music. Real sound is my reference and while perfection may not be attainable? If I chase it, I might just catch excellence. ~ -
That's why I said a "temporary fix". It'll getcha' by until.........
Sometimes tunes are really that important.
I was thinking about doing that for a temporary fix, but it's not really noticeable 90% of the time. For the most part, I only ever hear it during movies, during really deep bass passages, when I have it cranked up louder than I usually do. I just heard it during music for the first time today. I was listening to "Come Together" by the Beatles, which starts off with a really deep bass line, as I'm sure most of you know.;) I had it cranked up way higher than I do during normal listening. Actually it was probably the highest I've ever had them turned up since getting them. It sounded great just FYI.:D
I'm considering doing some XO mods, and adding some Moretite to all of the drivers later this year. I'll probably just fix it when I do that, rather than tearing it apart twice, since it's not really bothering me the majority of the time.The nirvana inducer-
APC H10 Power Conditioner
Marantz UD5005 universal player
Parasound Halo P5 preamp
Parasound HCA-1200II power amp
PolkAudio LSi9's/PolkAudio SDA 2A's/PolkAudio Monitor 7A's
Audioquest Speaker Cables and IC's -
Thanks for the advice guys. I tightened the other screws, as well as the crossover. It seems to be ok for now, but I will eventually have to fix the stripped screws. I figure that I'll do it the right way the 1st time so I don't have to do it again. Maybe it gives me an excuse to do some upgrades:DChrisPreamp: Anthem Pre 2L (Jan-Phillips Green) Processor: Marantz SR7012 Amp: B&K 200.5Streaming: Bluesound Node 2IDAC: Eastern Electric Minimax Plus4K Bluray: Panasonic UB820Mains: Von Schweikert VR2Center: Von Schweikert LCR15 Subs: 2 SVS Sb13 Ultra (HT Only) Analysis Plus Cables
-
After hearing the rattle again during a movie tonight, I finally got to taking off the radiator. It turns out, it was just the internal wires hitting the back of the passive. A little tape and I'm all good to go:cool:ChrisPreamp: Anthem Pre 2L (Jan-Phillips Green) Processor: Marantz SR7012 Amp: B&K 200.5Streaming: Bluesound Node 2IDAC: Eastern Electric Minimax Plus4K Bluray: Panasonic UB820Mains: Von Schweikert VR2Center: Von Schweikert LCR15 Subs: 2 SVS Sb13 Ultra (HT Only) Analysis Plus Cables