CSI3 Tweeter went
I thought I had bad Rti10, well I did cuz I blew the tweeters a long time ago but the CSi3 was still good and putting out great highs that I thought they were just bad speakers. Then the tweeter on the 3 went out over the weekend, the front sound stage became muffled. It was time to send them in for repair which I will do this week.
Then I had a great idea why not take the tweeters out of my fxi 3's since they are not in service. Sure enough they are the same part # so I slaped them on in.
Wow what a difference, like a brand new system. In fact I reran my auto calibration and the 10's opened up. And they sound great in Stereo mode now that they are not muffled.
Which leads me to a few questions.
1) How will an amp assure me the tweeters will not blow again?
2) What can I get to block some type of signal between the tweeter and the reciever, in otherwords is there a transitor that I can attach between maybe the positive or negative wire on the back of the tweeter.
Just one complaint, when i took the tweeter off the rti10's there was not enough slack in the wire. I tugged at it but of couse I did not want to snap anything inside the cabnit. I'm thinking of adding more wire for the slack.
And one last thing, Why are we buying thick wire to the speakers but the speakers have skinny wire on the inside????
Then I had a great idea why not take the tweeters out of my fxi 3's since they are not in service. Sure enough they are the same part # so I slaped them on in.
Wow what a difference, like a brand new system. In fact I reran my auto calibration and the 10's opened up. And they sound great in Stereo mode now that they are not muffled.
Which leads me to a few questions.
1) How will an amp assure me the tweeters will not blow again?
2) What can I get to block some type of signal between the tweeter and the reciever, in otherwords is there a transitor that I can attach between maybe the positive or negative wire on the back of the tweeter.
Just one complaint, when i took the tweeter off the rti10's there was not enough slack in the wire. I tugged at it but of couse I did not want to snap anything inside the cabnit. I'm thinking of adding more wire for the slack.
And one last thing, Why are we buying thick wire to the speakers but the speakers have skinny wire on the inside????
Retired Onkyo 520 (returned broken HK 247)
Now a Pioneer 1018
CSi3
2- RTI10's
2- R50's
2- Fxi3's
Onkyo 250W Sub
Polk psw-10
"Inch by inch lifes a cinch, yard by yard life is hard"
Now a Pioneer 1018
CSi3
2- RTI10's
2- R50's
2- Fxi3's
Onkyo 250W Sub
Polk psw-10
"Inch by inch lifes a cinch, yard by yard life is hard"
Post edited by Kchill on
Comments
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Your blowing tweeters because one your running them too loud second your sending distorted power to your speakers at high volumes.
Get a external amp that way you'll be sending your speakers nice clean power and ease off the trigger a little. -
And one last thing, Why are we buying thick wire to the speakers but the speakers have skinny wire on the inside????
Something I've wondered since I saw the inside of my RM101s -
I know you can blow your tweeters for the reasons given above. But I also thought that that was more common on the M-series and that the RTI series tweeters were MORE ROBUST and far less prone to suffer from amps clipping? Or am I misinformed.
It is certainly possible to get that Pioneer model to clip at high volumes as it's only mid-level piece of equipment--not an Elite, etc.
cnhCurrently orbiting Bowie's Blackstar.!
Polk Lsi-7s, Def Tech 8" sub, HK 3490, HK HD 990 (CDP/DAC), AKG Q701s
[sig. changed on a monthly basis as I rotate in and out of my stash] -
If you get an external amp, you'll soon find out what you're missing from your 10's. Also, back off a little until you do get an amp.Living Room:....................[HTML] [/HTML] Zone 2 (Workout Room):
AVR - Yamaha RX-V757......JBL 4312 Pro Monitors
Pre - Nak CA-5
AMP - Adcom 555 (Main)
Main - Polk RTI8**/RTiA5
AMP - Adcom 545II (Center)
Center - Polk CSiA4**
Sub - Snell Basis 300:p......Zone 3 (Outside)
CD - Yamaha CDC-555.......Def Tech AW5500
TV - Pani TH-42PZ80U
BR - LG BD390
Monster HTS1600 Power Center
Dedicated Circuit - (2) 20amp, (1) 15amp
Ben's IC, Canare 4S11
**Dayton and Sonicap Caps with Mills Resistors** -
JohnLocke88 wrote: »Something I've wondered since I saw the inside of my RM101s
That's why i laugh when people say they "noticed a much more spacious soundstage" and the like when using $1000 speaker wire....... the internals of the amp and speakers themselves are not nearly as exotic.KEF Q150 | Rythmik F12 | Yamaha Aventage RX-A780 -
I know you can blow your tweeters for the reasons given above. But I also thought that that was more common on the M-series and that the RTI series tweeters were MORE ROBUST and far less prone to suffer from amps clipping? Or am I misinformed.
It is certainly possible to get that Pioneer model to clip at high volumes as it's only mid-level piece of equipment--not an Elite, etc.
cnhMost of them only hear how loud it sounds, and the rest of us hear everything else - :rolleyes: -
That's why i laugh when people say they "noticed a much more spacious soundstage" and the like when using $1000 speaker wire....... the internals of the amp and speakers themselves are not nearly as exotic.
The susceptibility of the wires to signal loss and induced noise over the few inches inside of the speaker cabinet are far less than the few (or perhaps many, depending on your room setup) feet of cable that connect your AVR or amp to your speakers.
Additionally, of all the cables in your system that you could potentially upgrade, the speaker cables would have the least audible impact, at least in my opinion. Power cables and interconnects would have much more impact on the listening experience.
However, this all comes with a few caveats -- without reference quality gear, an acoustically treated listening environment, and audiophile quality cables (we're talking thousands of dollars here, not $200 Monster cables) it would be difficult if not impossible to hear a difference. -
kneedragger37 wrote: »The susceptibility of the wires to signal loss and induced noise over the few inches inside of the speaker cabinet are far less than the few (or perhaps many, depending on your room setup) feet of cable that connect your AVR or amp to your speakers.
Additionally, of all the cables in your system that you could potentially upgrade, the speaker cables would have the least audible impact, at least in my opinion. Power cables and interconnects would have much more impact on the listening experience.
However, this all comes with a few caveats -- without reference quality gear, an acoustically treated listening environment, and audiophile quality cables (we're talking thousands of dollars here, not $200 Monster cables) it would be difficult if not impossible to hear a difference.
Thanks for the feedback. Regarding power cables..... to get any benefit out of this do you need to have some sort of electrial wiring on that circuit of the house that is superior to what you normally get?KEF Q150 | Rythmik F12 | Yamaha Aventage RX-A780 -
Thanks for the feedback. Regarding power cables..... to get any benefit out of this do you need to have some sort of electrial wiring on that circuit of the house that is superior to what you normally get?
Not really, though if you have anything that could potentially create noise on the power line plugged into the same circuit (fridge, microwave, or air conditioner for instance) then chances are even a very expensive audiophile power cable won't help -- the cables are good at keeping out induced noise -- noise that comes from outside the cable, not noise that's on the line itself.
Most serious listening rooms would have dedicated circuits for the equipment -- but these would be no different in terms of the type of wiring than any other circuit in the home. -
woodsman10b wrote: »All speakers run the risk of damage when you are cranking it up with underpowered receivers. You need to either just back off a little or invest in higher current power sources. So yes, you were misinformed:eek:
Agreed, but Polk does state that the RTis have a more robust and reinforced tweeter structure than the M-series tweeter. And can run hotter longer. But yeah, if you're going to blast a 500 dollar Pioneer amp to ear-bleeding levels then, things are going to blow!
Personally, I've never been able to play anything on a 500-1000 dollar receiver loud enough to have this problem and among other things I have a 19year old pair of 12" 3 way JBL monitors whose titanium dome just keeps going and going and going and going.....
cnhCurrently orbiting Bowie's Blackstar.!
Polk Lsi-7s, Def Tech 8" sub, HK 3490, HK HD 990 (CDP/DAC), AKG Q701s
[sig. changed on a monthly basis as I rotate in and out of my stash] -
HEy folks thanks for the blast, I know my reciever is not top end, just wanted preouts that i was missing from my old onkyo which I'm sure blew the tweeters before, no biggie.
No one answered my 2 questions, can anyone chime in?Retired Onkyo 520 (returned broken HK 247)
Now a Pioneer 1018
CSi3
2- RTI10's
2- R50's
2- Fxi3's
Onkyo 250W Sub
Polk psw-10
"Inch by inch lifes a cinch, yard by yard life is hard" -
Kchill,
I think you answered the first question yourself, use those pre-outs and get a better amp, perhaps?
cnhCurrently orbiting Bowie's Blackstar.!
Polk Lsi-7s, Def Tech 8" sub, HK 3490, HK HD 990 (CDP/DAC), AKG Q701s
[sig. changed on a monthly basis as I rotate in and out of my stash] -
cnh,
Not really, I asked if the amp will assure me that the speakers will not blow, at least the tweeter, they seem to always go first. Also I asked if there is a way to block the tweeter or something that i could add to stop it from breaking. If you know please help. ThanksRetired Onkyo 520 (returned broken HK 247)
Now a Pioneer 1018
CSi3
2- RTI10's
2- R50's
2- Fxi3's
Onkyo 250W Sub
Polk psw-10
"Inch by inch lifes a cinch, yard by yard life is hard" -
External amp will send those speakers clean power and therefore wont have any distortion which is the root cause of you blowing your tweeters.
So once amp up your setup you wont need to block the tweeters as the speakers are receiving dedicated clean power. Simple as that, I have 3 Outlaws in the Flea Market right now, check it out.Shoot the jumper.....................BALLIN.............!!!!!
Home Theater Pics in the Showcase :cool:
http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/showcase/view.php?userid=73580 -
External amp will send those speakers clean power and therefore wont have any distortion which is the root cause of you blowing your tweeters.
So once amp up your setup you wont need to block the tweeters as the speakers are receiving dedicated clean power. Simple as that, I have 3 Outlaws in the Flea Market right now, check it out.
I noticed that you have a pioneer elite, did the amps change the sound comming from the elete..in otherwords my onkyo sounded one way and the pioneer carry its own sound, or does it truely amplify the sound?Retired Onkyo 520 (returned broken HK 247)
Now a Pioneer 1018
CSi3
2- RTI10's
2- R50's
2- Fxi3's
Onkyo 250W Sub
Polk psw-10
"Inch by inch lifes a cinch, yard by yard life is hard" -
bump to knock spammer out of 1st position"Appreciation of audio is a completely subjective human experience. Measurements can provide a measure of insight, but are no substitute for human judgment. Why are we looking to reduce a subjective experience to objective criteria anyway? The subtleties of music and audio reproduction are for those who appreciate it. Differentiation by numbers is for those who do not".--Nelson Pass Pass Labs XA25 | EE Avant Pre | EE Mini Max Supreme DAC | MIT Shotgun S1 | Pangea AC14SE MKII | Legend L600 | BlueSound Node 3 - Tubes add soul!
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External amp will send those speakers clean power and therefore wont have any distortion which is the root cause of you blowing your tweeters.
So once amp up your setup you wont need to block the tweeters as the speakers are receiving dedicated clean power. Simple as that, I have 3 Outlaws in the Flea Market right now, check it out.
+1 for external AMPS. I can trip the polys in my SDA-1Cs before my Carver TFM-45 runs out of steam. Thats at +10 on my AVR BTW. Normally listen no louder than -10 to -5.
Headroom is a nice thing to have.Speakers: SDA-1C (most all the goodies)
Preamp: Joule Electra LA-150 MKII SE
Amp: Wright WPA 50-50 EAT KT88s
Analog: Marantz TT-15S1 MBS Glider SL| Wright WPP100C Amperex BB 6er5 and 7316 & WPM-100 SUT
Digital: Mac mini 2.3GHz dual-core i5 8g RAM 1.5 TB HDD Music Server Amarra (memory play) - USB - W4S DAC 2
Cables: Mits S3 IC and Spk cables| PS Audio PCs -
I noticed that you have a pioneer elite, did the amps change the sound comming from the elete..in otherwords my onkyo sounded one way and the pioneer carry its own sound, or does it truely amplify the sound?
I personally like to think my setup sounds great. If youre wondering if the Elite and Onkyo sound different, the answer is yes. I demoed the 805 when I was in the market and the Elite gives a more detailed, dynamic sound IMHO. Some may not prefer that sound or may experience something totally different.Shoot the jumper.....................BALLIN.............!!!!!
Home Theater Pics in the Showcase :cool:
http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/showcase/view.php?userid=73580 -
I personally like to think my setup sounds great. If youre wondering if the Elite and Onkyo sound different, the answer is yes. I demoed the 805 when I was in the market and the Elite gives a more detailed, dynamic sound IMHO. Some may not prefer that sound or may experience something totally different.
So the amp made the sound that pio produce just better, it passed the sound through with out changing it just louder? Cleaner (already clean to me) maybe?
What amp would you suggest, I like emotiva for the price and many have suggested it as it seems to be in high demand. I notice you mentioned sunfire, any advantages it may have?Retired Onkyo 520 (returned broken HK 247)
Now a Pioneer 1018
CSi3
2- RTI10's
2- R50's
2- Fxi3's
Onkyo 250W Sub
Polk psw-10
"Inch by inch lifes a cinch, yard by yard life is hard" -
I wanted Emotiva to try Emotiva but they were having problems trying to ship to me for some reason, so I went Sunfire based on reviews and thoughts here for other owners. Sunfire is excellent quality with a nice sound. Not sure about Emo gear, I never got to hear it.Shoot the jumper.....................BALLIN.............!!!!!
Home Theater Pics in the Showcase :cool:
http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/showcase/view.php?userid=73580