Linkwitz active xover
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I would like a pair of the SF 6.5"s to try.Testing
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Dude seriously I have never heard drums sound so life like, hit so hard while still being able to retain excellent vocals. Robert Plant ship of fools is flat out amazing on them. It takes a long time to break in those drivers. When we first fired them up I felt bad for Jerry. It really took about 100hrs to get going. The only thing I can attribute that to is the wools cones being very stiff/hard and needing to be played for a while.Please. Please contact me a ben62670 @ yahoo.com. Make sure to include who you are, and you are from Polk so I don't delete your email. Also I am now physically unable to work on any projects. If you need help let these guys know. There are many people who will help if you let them know where you are.
Thanks
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Dude seriously I have never heard drums sound so life like, hit so hard while still being able to retain excellent vocals. Robert Plant ship of fools is flat out amazing on them. It takes a long time to break in those drivers. When we first fired them up I felt bad for Jerry. It really took about 100hrs to get going. The only thing I can attribute that to is the wools cones being very stiff/hard and needing to be played for a while.
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Here is the 6.5" http://www.madisound.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=847You're selling me on them.Testing
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GV, did you consider using side-firing woofers with a lower crossover point? That's the design I'm pondering - more of an LSi15 type design, with a crossover of about 80 Hz. Any thoughts on that? Do you know of any other brands that produce something similar?
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Yes I had considered trying a sidefiring config but went this route because I thought that limiting the midrange drivers response to only 300hz would result in less distortion and improved clarity in the all important midband.GV, did you consider using side-firing woofers with a lower crossover point?
Yes that should work fine with an 80hz xover.That's the design I'm pondering - more of an LSi15 type design, with a crossover of about 80 Hz. Any thoughts on that?
Most are out of production but here are a few NHT,Audio Physic,Coincident, Def Tech.Do you know of any other brands that produce something similar?Testing
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soiset,here are the two speakers that gave me the inspiration if you will for my design.(though I doubt I came anywhere close to their looks and performance levels). Both are ultra expensive and completely active ,both incorporate 24db LR xovers and use off the shelf drivers from SEAS, Vifa,B&C.
http://www.aurumacoustics.com/loudspeaker_system.html
http://www.audiophilia.com/features/waveform.htmTesting
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soiset,here are the two speakers that gave me the inspiration if you will for my design.(though I doubt I came anywhere close to their looks and performance levels). Both are ultra expensive and completely active ,both incorporate 24db LR xovers and use off the shelf drivers from SEAS, Vifa,B&C.
http://www.aurumacoustics.com/loudspeaker_system.html
http://www.audiophilia.com/features/waveform.htm
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These would be excellent for experimenting with active xovers.Complete cabinets with quality SEAS drivers for $100 is a steal. http://www.zaphaudio.com/XDS.htmlTesting
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Yes, that would be a very good deal.
Right now I'm looking at two similar designs. One would be for HT, and the other for two-channel. For HT, I need a solid response to 80 Hz, and for that, I'm thinking of using two PE RS 6" drivers, and their highly-rated 1-1/8" silk dome in an MTM config. The baffle would be as narrow as possible, and the cab would be about .75 cft completed, ported. One edge of the tweeter would line up with the edges of the woofers. See Dr. K's MTM, but imagine 6" instead of 7" drivers, and no gap between drivers.
For the higher-fidelity two-channel, I am now thinking of abandoning the side-firing subwoofer and using a front-firing large woofer similar to your design. The top would still use an MTM config, but with the Vifa xt25gt30 chambered tweeter. This tweeter is has a slightly smaller plate, and with some smaller woofers, I could reduce the distance between the drivers, thus reducing comb-filtering effects. Smaller woofers would suffice because the crossover to the large woofer below would be much higher, at 2-300 Hz. The Vifa tweeter would cross at 2 kHz, with a 24dB slope, which ought to be safe. The upper cab would be sealed.
The lower cabinet would slope forward to align the subwoofer with the MTM woofers, and the tweeter would be time-delayed in the crossover to match the mids. The front elevation of the lower cab would be trapezoidal, to accommodate a 10" sub at the bottom, but match the narrow cab of the MTM at the top, going from about 11" wide at the bottom to 7.5" at the top. I'm considering the PE RS 10" HF woofer for the job. The small 1.5 cft ported recommendation would allow plenty of room for bracing and thick walls.
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Definitely abandon the side firing woofer idea.
The XT-25 is an excellent idea though. In case you haven't seen it: http://www.zaphaudio.com/tweetermishmash/"He who fights with monsters should look to it that he himself does not become a monster. And when you gaze long into an abyss the abyss also gazes into you." Friedrich Nietzsche -
You have some good ideas there,and good driver choices.If you crossover in the 2-300hz range then as Face suggested front firing is recomended.Aswell crossing over that high should allow you to forgo adding any baffle step compensation with your 2 channel design,but might be required with your HT MTM's if you intend for them to be used far from room boundries.Testing
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Definitely abandon the side firing woofer idea.
The XT-25 is an excellent idea though. In case you haven't seen it: http://www.zaphaudio.com/tweetermishmash/
That is a very cool write-up. I may change my HT tweeter based on that (the Dayton silk dome showing a lot distortion). Also, I may as well move to a 3-driver arrangement for the 2-channel setup, putting the money of two mids into a single higher-quality mid. Considering the higher crossover point of the sub, the low end output of an MTM wouldn't be useful. -
These would be excellent for experimenting with active xovers.Complete cabinets with quality SEAS drivers for $100 is a steal. http://www.zaphaudio.com/XDS.html
Since the site mentioned at that link is down, would you know where to buy some of these crossover-less speakers? They are very pretty, and the tapered cabinets probably do a very nice job with that tweeter. -
No he is the go to guy.I'm not sure why the site is down but he usually has a ton of goodies listed.Testing
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Here is a review of the complete commercial system.You can purchase the DEQX unit separatly but it's spendy. http://www.stereophile.com/standloudspeakers/1105nht/Testing
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No he is the go to guy.I'm not sure why the site is down but he usually has a ton of goodies listed.
I'll be watching, but if you see that site come back up, let us know. I'll jump on a pair of those things for $200. Then all I'd need to do is build some nice, visually complementary subs to go beneath them. -
For fun I substituded my mid/tweet section with my Zaph ZMV5 2way mini monitors in a passive/active setup.The ZMV5 's have passive LR4 xovers at 2k and I used the Bryston active xover to crossover at 300hz (also LR4)to the 8" woofers.The results were quite good.Testing
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Stain them the same color and they would look right at home."He who fights with monsters should look to it that he himself does not become a monster. And when you gaze long into an abyss the abyss also gazes into you." Friedrich Nietzsche
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I was planning on a different veneer but may opt for the cherry so they will match.Stain them the same color and they would look right at home.Testing
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I like how you securely mounted that SPL meter.
"He who fights with monsters should look to it that he himself does not become a monster. And when you gaze long into an abyss the abyss also gazes into you." Friedrich Nietzsche -
He he,the locking screw thingy was attached to my camcorder.Testing
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This is way OT, but do you have any opinions regarding woofers in series or parallel? My HT d'Appolito design is currently to use two 4-ohm woofers in series, and an 8 ohm tweeter, with an active crossover, of course. There seems to be some notion that woofers should always be in parallel to avoid back-EMF problems between them, because there will always be differences in their parameters, even if they are the same model.
OTOH, this guy says it matters not:
http://www.monstercable.com/mpc/stable/tech/A2538_Wiring_Woofers.pdf -
Nah it's still speaker related.This is way OT,
With dual 4 ohm drivers yes you will have to series connect them which should not be a problem.I do prefer the parallel connection if the resulting load is not too low, mainly because the added approx 6db of extra voltage sensitivity is a big advantage.Testing
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Nah it's still speaker related.
With dual 4 ohm drivers yes you will have to series connect them which should not be a problem.I do prefer the parallel connection if the resulting load is not too low, mainly because the added approx 6db of extra voltage sensitivity is a big advantage.
Well, I scored a deal on 21 of the Dayton RS-150 6" 4 ohm woofers. Zaph reviews them well, with top marks for consistency, which apparently is the only issue when connecting in series. Now, to pick out a 8 ohm tweeter of the same caliber. These are for the HT speakers, of which I'm still thinking 9 identical d'Appolito types, in .75 cft cabs, ported. I'll actually start a thread when I begin building. -
Awesome,I have read good reports of and seen them used in a number of projects.Well, I scored a deal on 21 of the Dayton RS-150 6" 4 ohm woofers. Zaph reviews them well, with top marks for consistency,
What is your budget per tweet and why 8 ohm's ?Amp not 4 ohm stable?The Vifa ring radiators are 4 ohm and SEAS have several excellent tweets that are 6 ohm.Now, to pick out an 8 ohm tweeter of the same caliber.Testing
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Awesome,I have read good reports of and seen them used in a number of projects.What is your budget per tweet and why 8 ohm's ?Amp not 4 ohm stable?The Vifa ring radiators are 4 ohm and SEAS have several excellent tweets that are 6 ohm.
The amps are rated for 4 ohms. I guess it would be ok to mix them that way. -
Care to recommend a tweeter with a tiny faceplate? A smaller faceplate will allow the woofers to come closer together, especially with the tweeter horizontally offset.
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Care to recommend a tweeter with a tiny faceplate? A smaller faceplate will allow the woofers to come closer together, especially with the tweeter horizontally offset.
http://www.madisound.com/catalog/product_info.php?manufacturers_id=148&products_id=8512
http://www.madisound.com/catalog/product_info.php?manufacturers_id=148&products_id=8497
http://www.madisound.com/catalog/product_info.php?manufacturers_id=148&products_id=8498"He who fights with monsters should look to it that he himself does not become a monster. And when you gaze long into an abyss the abyss also gazes into you." Friedrich Nietzsche -
Those would be absolutely perfect except I prefer my testes in their current alignment (I've got to buy 9 of them)!
ETA: I'm looking for something in the sub-$40 range for HT tweeters. Also, lower crossover point = larger allowable overall diameter.
