Bridge or Bi-Amp RTi10s

ZOOPDOOP22
ZOOPDOOP22 Posts: 158
edited February 2009 in Electronics
I have 200 watt monoblocks powering my RTi10s. Right now they sound awesome but if I were to get two more I could bridge my amps to get 600 watts <.09 THD 20-20.

The RTi10, from polk, is recommended to be powered up to 300 watts. I have neighbors and I wouldn't be playing it too loud to blow out the speakers (i hope).

Would I see more benefit from bridging to 600 watts or biamping with an active crossover. What would have the most sonic benefits? Thanks!
Post edited by ZOOPDOOP22 on
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Comments

  • dkg999
    dkg999 Posts: 5,647
    edited February 2009
    I think your incremental gain from doing anything else compared to what you have will be very small. I would replace the metal jumpers with a good quality cable, and set back and enjoy.

    Sometimes you can't overthink these things.
    DKG999
    HT System: LSi9, LSiCx2, LSiFX, LSi7, SVS 20-39 PC+, B&K 507.s2 AVR, B&K Ref 125.2, Tripplite LCR-2400, Cambridge 650BD, Signal Cable PC/SC, BJC IC, Samsung 55" LED

    Music System: Magnepan 1.6QR, SVS SB12+, ARC pre, Parasound HCA1500 vertically bi-amped, Jolida CDP, Pro-Ject RM5.1SE TT, Pro-Ject TubeBox SE phono pre, SBT, PS Audio DLIII DAC
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  • leroyjr1
    leroyjr1 Posts: 8,785
    edited February 2009
    I think you should just keep it the way it is. 200 watts is more than enough for those RTI 10's. You might want to put that money toward a good sub, speaker wires, or IC's.
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  • MADGSF
    MADGSF Posts: 603
    edited February 2009
    ^^ Agreed what you have now is plenty IMO. Those Marantz mono blocks are supposed to be very nice. I think that's what you have.
    AVR: Elite VSX-21TXH
    Amplifier: B&K 7250 Series ii
    Misc: Velodyne SMS-1
    Mains: RTi-10
    Center: CSi-5
    Rear: Boston DSi460
    Sub: SVS PC-Ultra
    TV: Panasonic TC-P58V10
    DVD: Panasonic DMP-BD60K
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  • treitz3
    treitz3 Posts: 19,550
    edited February 2009
    Bi-amp, Bi-amp, Bi-amp. Did I mention Bi-amp? With the active.
    ~ In search of accurate reproduction of music. Real sound is my reference and while perfection may not be attainable? If I chase it, I might just catch excellence. ~
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  • ZOOPDOOP22
    ZOOPDOOP22 Posts: 158
    edited February 2009
    treitz3 wrote: »
    Bi-amp, Bi-amp, Bi-amp. Did I mention Bi-amp? With the active.

    I like this thought.. but ideas such as get a better sub are valid too.

    I wish we had a consensus but then this guy throws me off.. and of course I respec all post counts and join dates. Can anyone recommend a sub they have used with similar speakers to mine.. or anyone tell me a musical sub they have heard around 400 dollars?
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  • sdcfan18
    sdcfan18 Posts: 95
    edited February 2009
    dkg999 wrote: »
    I think your incremental gain from doing anything else compared to what you have will be very small. I would replace the metal jumpers with a good quality cable, and set back and enjoy.

    Sometimes you can't overthink these things.

    Just did this to try to get rid of some of the brightness in the 10's and was greatly surprised. Thanks for the tip!
    HT RIG

    DISPLAY - Samsung 50A550 Plasma
    MAINS - polkaudio RTi10
    CENTER - polkaudio CSiA6
    REARS - polkaudio M20
    SUB - D-Box David 303 (looking into SVS & Velo)
    AVR - Yamaha HTR-6190
    AMP - Emotiva XPA-3 (:D)
    SAT/PVR - Bell HD 6141 1TB HDD
    BluRay - 60G PS3
    DVD - Pioneer 490-V (1080i upconverting)
    POWER - Belkin PF31
    REMOTE - Harmony 880
    PICTURES HERE

    A wise man once said "Friends don't let friends buy Bose"
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