Monoblock vs. Bi-Amp

LarryK
LarryK Posts: 38
edited February 2009 in Electronics
After a second thought, this post might be better in this forum... At the risk of being shot for even using the word "Bi-Amp" I have a question (or two). We are working off a clean sheet of paper so all options are open. I have LSi15's, LSiC, PSW10 Sub & LSi7's (which I am going to replace with LSiF/X. I have an underpowered receiver so it's seperates time.

I am thinking of going the monoblock route for fronts and 3, 5 or 7 channel amp for the rest. Would there be any advantage to Bi-Amping this as well (I would also get an active crossover)? From what I've read here, it's pointless to Bi-Wire. Is the internal crossover knocked out automatically when the external x-over is used or do you need to do some surgery to the speaker? Is it worth it? Finally, what is the difference between Bi-Wire and Bi-Amp speaker cable?

Thinking of new Emo's (I know, enough of that too) vs. used Mac. Your thoughts are much appreciated... be kind as I am somewhat new:confused:
Pioneer Elite Kuro 50" Pro111FD
Front: Polk LSi15
Center: Polk LSiC
Surround: Polk LSiF/X
Sub: Polk PSW10
Amps: Rotel RB 993 &
Parasound HCA-800 II
Pre/Pro:Anthem AVM-20
Post edited by LarryK on

Comments

  • TNRabbit
    TNRabbit Posts: 2,168
    edited February 2009
    You've got MANY options on amps; any idea which direction you want to head to narrow it down a little?

    The BEST way to bi-amp is to actively crossover before the power amp stage & remove the internal passive speaker crossover. However, there are a lot of things taken into account in the speaker crossover like in/out of phase changes that occurr & peaks/dips in the speaker, to name a couple. It's still advantageous, though slightly less so, to leave the internal crossover in place while actively bi-amping. The main advantage in this arrangement is more available power/headroom & less strain on each individual amp.

    Bi-wire -vs- bi-amp cables: bi-wire cabling will many times be the SAME circuit, larger in diameter. You CANNOT bi-amp with a bi-wire cable of this type. They have to be completely separate in order to bi-wire. Personally, I think bi-wiring is a complete waste of time except in certain extreme circumstances (for example, if the only available cable was of an extremeley small gauge & you doubled it up to increase throughput/decrease resistance).
    TNRabbit
    NO Polk Audio Equipment :eek:
    Sunfire TG-IV
    Ashly 1001 Active Crossover
    Rane PEQ-15 Parametric Equalizers x 2
    Sunfire Cinema Grand Signature Seven
    Carver AL-III Speakers
    Klipsch RT-12d Subwoofer
  • LarryK
    LarryK Posts: 38
    edited February 2009
    Great Info! Thinking of MC501's vs. Emo XPA-1's, MC205 vs. Emo XPA-5, and for proc MX120 vs. new EMO when it arrives. I know even at used prices the MAC's are going to be $$ higher, worth it?? a another question for another post.

    Do I also get the feeling from what you have said, if you don't know what you are doing, don't touch anything?? Thanks again.
    Pioneer Elite Kuro 50" Pro111FD
    Front: Polk LSi15
    Center: Polk LSiC
    Surround: Polk LSiF/X
    Sub: Polk PSW10
    Amps: Rotel RB 993 &
    Parasound HCA-800 II
    Pre/Pro:Anthem AVM-20
  • Early B.
    Early B. Posts: 7,900
    edited February 2009
    Keep it simple. Forget about monoblocks for HT. Just buy an XPA-5 and be done with it. And forget about replacing the Lsi7's. If you want something else to do, get a bigger, better subwoofer.
    HT/2-channel Rig: Sony 50” LCD TV; Toshiba HD-A2 DVD player; Emotiva LMC-1 pre/pro; Rogue Audio M-120 monoblocks (modded); Placette RVC; Emotiva LPA-1 amp; Bada HD-22 tube CDP (modded); VMPS Tower II SE (fronts); DIY Clearwave Dynamic 4CC (center); Wharfedale Opus Tri-Surrounds (rear); and VMPS 215 sub

    "God grooves with tubes."
  • leroyjr1
    leroyjr1 Posts: 8,785
    edited February 2009
    Early B. wrote: »
    Keep it simple. Forget about monoblocks for HT. Just buy an XPA-5 and be done with it. And forget about replacing the Lsi7's. If you want something else to do, get a bigger, better subwoofer.


    +1

    Get a good 5 channel and be done with it. Also get a better sub.
  • Hawkeye
    Hawkeye Posts: 1,313
    edited February 2009
    LarryK wrote: »
    Great Info! Thinking of MC501's vs. Emo XPA-1's, MC205 vs. Emo XPA-5, and for proc MX120 vs. new EMO when it arrives. I know even at used prices the MAC's are going to be $$ higher, worth it?? a another question for another post.

    Do I also get the feeling from what you have said, if you don't know what you are doing, don't touch anything?? Thanks again.

    I have never heard an Emo so can't comment there. If you go with McIntosh, you're not only buying good gear, you have a company behind you that has been in the business since the 40's. If you have the coin to drop on the McIntosh, I think it would be worth it, but I am biased :D

    Gordon
    2 Channel -
    Martin Logan Spire, 2 JL Audio F112 subs
    McIntosh C1000 Controller with Tube pre amp, 2 MC501 amplifiers, MD1K Transport & DAC, MR-88 Tuner
    WireWorld Eclipse 6.0 speaker wire and jumpers, Eclipse 5^2 Squared Balanced IC's. Silver Eclipse PCs (5)
    Symposium Rollerblocks 2+ (16)Black Diamond Racing Mk 3 pits (8)
  • zingo
    zingo Posts: 11,258
    edited February 2009
    leroyjr1 wrote: »
    Get a good 5 channel and be done with it. Also get a better sub.

    Agreed. When I had my HT and switched to a 7 channel amp from separates, it saved me so many hassles and headaches, not to mention space. Just get one big amp and be done with it.
  • Systems
    Systems Posts: 14,873
    edited February 2009
    TNRabbit wrote: »


    The BEST way to bi-amp is to actively crossover before the power amp stage & remove the internal passive speaker crossover.
    Agreed
    However, there are a lot of things taken into account in the speaker crossover like in/out of phase changes that occurr & peaks/dips in the speaker, to name a couple.
    Exactly,If it is not done properly the end result may well sound substantially worse than the stock passively crossed over version.
    It's still advantageous, though slightly less so, to leave the internal crossover in place while actively bi-amping.
    I disagree with this point.Cascading an active xover with the stock passive unit will run the same risk as mentioned above about using the active xover alone.It must be designed to work with the particular system or the results will be less than satisfactory.
    The main advantage in this arrangement is more available power/headroom & less strain on each individual amp.
    Yes when an active setup is properly implemented.
    Testing
    Testing
    Testing
  • LarryK
    LarryK Posts: 38
    edited February 2009
    Thanks to all, great information and another view(s) to look at as I go forward. This helps alot!!
    Pioneer Elite Kuro 50" Pro111FD
    Front: Polk LSi15
    Center: Polk LSiC
    Surround: Polk LSiF/X
    Sub: Polk PSW10
    Amps: Rotel RB 993 &
    Parasound HCA-800 II
    Pre/Pro:Anthem AVM-20