This started out as a PM to Early B but became too long . . .

SolidSqualSolidSqual Posts: 5,217
edited February 2009 in 2 Channel Audio
Hey EarlyB.

I deleted your original message by accident but I think I remember your questions. You're considering an Emmy system. You're wondering whether the tweaks are worth it. And, your wondering how I have been able to measure the improvements?

First, in my experience you can build a bad **** Emmy system in a couple ways that will result in varying degrees of very good performance.

Here's a serious system that could be done with some budget, but probably at nothing less than $6K whether used or new:

Emmy CS2
Dual XPA-2
Stock DCX2496
Tubed pre
Tubed CDP

The XPA-2s are the best most affordable amps for the Emmys and are a no brainer at their price. The Emmy woofers are hungry for serious power and you will really enjoy the dynamics from the 15s with these amps. That being said, don't get a modded DCX because the noise floor of the XPA is not low enough and the extra hiss will ruin the benefits of the extra clarity and detail offered by the modded DCX. The modded DCX reveals everything and is sensitive to electronics with less than stelar noise floors. Finally you need a tubed CDP and Pre because the Emmys are neutral as hell if not a little cold. They are also extremely sensitive to electronics. So you can get some good results by tweaking your gear and finding the right synergy.

How do I know the DCX made a big difference? Well, there’s another guy who I have been working closely with here in Indy who also has a Emmy system. We’ve both been tweaking and upgrading together. I bought the DCX when I was going through the Odyssey troubles so I didn’t test it on my own speakers but I did use my CDp and my friends Dodd Bat Pre with his Red Dragon Monos and of course his Emmys. He bought the Modded DCX about a month after I did after being convinced during long listening sessions that it was a good upgrade when compared to the stock DCX. Trust me it’s definitely a worthwhile upgrade, but it’s not required by any means.

The W4S are decidedly better than the XPA-2s because they manage to produce the same dynamics and more detail without the tunes sounding “solid state” as we discussed earlier.

Aside from getting the DCX modded, which was the greatest tweak, I also saw good results by getting a solid audio stand and adding acoustic treatments. All the tweaks, are not required. I am confident with the right placement and synergy you could make a system that would rock your world.

Oh wait, another tweak . . . better than the DCX mod and the first I ever did. The tweeter mod: Mounting the speaker cable directly to the tweeter is a must. Removing the binding post from the signal path is absolutely a must.

Good interconnects are a must. Avoid too much silver because it makes the Emmys too bright.

I’m currently experimenting with the Isopods with mixed results. They have a definite impact on my TT, but not so much on my Raysonic.

So, breakdown of the tweaks. . . let me first say this system will blow away many others away with no tweaks:

Emmy CS2
XPA-2
Stock DCX
Dodd Pre
Raysonic CD128

So, the DCX mod, Gik acoustics and the Tweeter mod are substantial tweaks. The others are more along the path of DarqueKnight, not as substantial, but a requirement to discover the top performance of these speakers.

Later,

Mike
Post edited by SolidSqual on

Comments

  • Early B.Early B. Posts: 8,171
    edited February 2009
    Cool. Thanks for taking the time to write this.

    Your comments about removing the binding posts from the signal path are very interesting. Do you have your speaker cables soldered to the tweeter?
    HT/2-channel Rig: Sony 50” LCD TV; Toshiba HD-A2 DVD player; Emotiva LMC-1 pre/pro; Rogue Audio M-120 monoblocks (modded); Placette RVC; Emotiva LPA-1 amp; Bada HD-22 tube CDP (modded); VMPS Tower II SE (fronts); DIY Clearwave Dynamic 4CC (center); Wharfedale Opus Tri-Surrounds (rear); and VMPS 215 sub

    "God grooves with tubes."
  • SolidSqualSolidSqual Posts: 5,217
    edited February 2009
    Early B. wrote: »
    Cool. Thanks for taking the time to write this.

    Your comments about removing the binding posts from the signal path are very interesting. Do you have your speaker cables soldered to the tweeter?

    No there are little posts. My speaker cables thanks to Frank Dai have little clamps that connect directly to the compression driver.

    You can see what I'm talking about in this picture. See the stock wiring hanging . . . that comes out the back of the waveguide from the binding posts.

    376_45_big.jpg
  • Early B.Early B. Posts: 8,171
    edited February 2009
    Gotcha.

    By removing a set of binding posts and some wire from the signal path, it's gotta sound more pure. Very cool.
    HT/2-channel Rig: Sony 50” LCD TV; Toshiba HD-A2 DVD player; Emotiva LMC-1 pre/pro; Rogue Audio M-120 monoblocks (modded); Placette RVC; Emotiva LPA-1 amp; Bada HD-22 tube CDP (modded); VMPS Tower II SE (fronts); DIY Clearwave Dynamic 4CC (center); Wharfedale Opus Tri-Surrounds (rear); and VMPS 215 sub

    "God grooves with tubes."
  • Use "LongPathTool". It is very useful.
  • mhardy6647mhardy6647 Posts: 23,563
    Man, the spammers are getting really poor at their jobs! I mean, no blind link, no butchered grammar. I hope they're not paying top dollar dolla to this @JoshuaBackay cat.

    B)

  • GlennDogGlennDog Posts: 2,073
    $2.12 per back doe intrusion post
    Power Rogue M180 monos & Adcom GFA 5802
    PS Audio PerfectWave Power Plant 10
    Rears Salk SuperCharged Surrounds
    Source PSA PWT into NSD Supremo
    Pre/Pro Integra DHC 40.1
    LCD Samsung LN46B750
    Mains Salk HT2-TL
    Center Salk HT2C
    Pre Cary SLP-05
    Wires WW & MIT
  • mhardy6647mhardy6647 Posts: 23,563
    GlennDog wrote: »
    $2.12 per back doe intrusion post

    man, that's good money! Maybe I should look into that...
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