SDA1c right channel issues

nooshinjohn
nooshinjohn Posts: 25,461
edited February 2009 in Vintage Speakers
:(Just discovered today when listening to a very good quality recording that my right channel speaker makes a popping sound at moderate to high volume.
At first I assumed that it was in the recording, as the drummer hits the casing of the drums from time to time as part of his performance. All drivers test perfectly and there is no scratchiness or resistance when moving them manually. The popping sound for the time being seems limited to this recording... The same speaker however also has a habit of shutting down the high frequencies at louder volumes regardless of the material being listened to. They will restore themselves when volume is reduced. The left speaker performs flawlessly regardless of the demand placed upon it.

The speakers are being driven by a :DCarver TFM-35:D that is delivering around 300 wpc at 6 ohm, and is performing quite well. Any ideas as to a possible cause/solution?:confused:

Thanks guys for the help/advice
The Gear... Carver "Statement" Mono-blocks, Mcintosh C2300 Arcam AVR20, Oppo UDP-203 4K Blu-ray player, Sony XBR70x850B 4k, Polk Audio Legend L800 with height modules, L400 Center Channel Polk audio AB800 "in-wall" surrounds. Marantz MM7025 stereo amp. Simaudio Moon 680d DSD

“When once a Republic is corrupted, there is no possibility of remedying any of the growing evils but by removing the corruption and restoring its lost principles; every other correction is either useless or a new evil.”— Thomas Jefferson
Post edited by nooshinjohn on

Comments

  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,746
    edited February 2009
    The problem with the tweeter shutting down is most likely caused by the polyswitch tripping too early. You should replace it along with the one in the left speaker.

    The popping may be the result of an air leak. It could also be caused by a faulty PR. Take it out and inspect the rear area for separation.

    Something else to try, swap all the drivers and PR from speaker to speaker to see if the problem goes with them or stays with the right speaker.

    driven by a Carver TFM-35 that is delivering around 300 wpc at 6 ohm

    Watts are not everything and not guarantee that an amp has what it takes to drive the SDA's. It could easily being clipping.

    Then there's always the possibility that you have a problem with the right channel in your amp.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


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  • NJPOLKER
    NJPOLKER Posts: 3,474
    edited February 2009
    John
    Polk Audio is kind enough to supply the polyswitches at no charge which a nice thing. They are also real easy to replace but you probably already know that.
    One more thing to be aware of is if you have anything wire crossed/out of phase you can hear something similar to what you are hearing. I know this beacuse I had the experience myself.
    Drew
  • bluecomet
    bluecomet Posts: 1,118
    edited February 2009
    I have the same thing going on with a pair of SDA 2B's. I should swap out the poly switchs but I haven't gotten around to it. At this point, I just play the speakers at moderate levels. They sound fine until I start cranking it up. I would change out the polyswitches either way if I were you to be on the safe side.
    Polk HT system 1: LSIC, LSI25 mains, LSI F/X rears, Lsi F/X rear centers,
    Yamaha RX-V2500 System, Carver A753 3 channel amp.

    Polk HT system 2: , SRT system with f/x 1,000's rear speakers on 7.1 system currently using Onkyo TX-RZ820 receiver, powered by Sunfire Grand Theater amp

    Polk Speaker collection: SDA SRS 1.2tl x 2, SRT system, SDA SRS 2 P/B, SDA 2A, SDA 1C Studio, SDA CRS+, Monitor 7B & 4, SRS 3.1tl, RTA 15tl, LS90, LSI 9
  • comfortablycurt
    comfortablycurt Posts: 6,745
    edited February 2009
    Sorry to hear about the bad luck John. Hope you get it figured out though.

    Sounds like Jesse's probably right about the polyswitches though.
    The nirvana inducer-
    APC H10 Power Conditioner
    Marantz UD5005 universal player
    Parasound Halo P5 preamp
    Parasound HCA-1200II power amp
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    Audioquest Speaker Cables and IC's
  • megasat16
    megasat16 Posts: 3,521
    edited February 2009

    Sounds like Jesse's probably right about the polyswitches though.

    You have doubts about our CP president troubleshooting on this? :confused::mad:

    Sorry to hear your SDA1C problem too, John. I don't know the fix for it since I have no SDA experience. Good Luck fixing it and try F1 idea to pinpoint the problem.
    Trying out Different Audio Cables is a Religious Affair. You don't discuss it with anyone. :redface::biggrin:
  • comfortablycurt
    comfortablycurt Posts: 6,745
    edited February 2009
    megasat16 wrote: »
    You have doubts about our CP president troubleshooting on this? :confused::mad:

    Sorry to hear your SDA1C problem too, John. I don't know the fix for it since I have no SDA experience. Good Luck fixing it and try F1 idea to pinpoint the problem.

    lol...No, I don't have any doubts. That's why I said he's probably right.;)

    But as I don't have any SDA experience myself...I'm not going to say that he is right...lol
    The nirvana inducer-
    APC H10 Power Conditioner
    Marantz UD5005 universal player
    Parasound Halo P5 preamp
    Parasound HCA-1200II power amp
    PolkAudio LSi9's/PolkAudio SDA 2A's/PolkAudio Monitor 7A's
    Audioquest Speaker Cables and IC's
  • thsmith
    thsmith Posts: 6,082
    edited February 2009
    F1nut wrote: »
    It could also be caused by a faulty PR. Take it out and inspect the rear area for separation.
    .

    +1, my right 1C had the spider and styrofoam seperated, it resulted in lower output than the left. I did not have any popping but it is still worth the look.
    Speakers: SDA-1C (most all the goodies)
    Preamp: Joule Electra LA-150 MKII SE
    Amp: Wright WPA 50-50 EAT KT88s
    Analog: Marantz TT-15S1 MBS Glider SL| Wright WPP100C Amperex BB 6er5 and 7316 & WPM-100 SUT
    Digital: Mac mini 2.3GHz dual-core i5 8g RAM 1.5 TB HDD Music Server Amarra (memory play) - USB - W4S DAC 2
    Cables: Mits S3 IC and Spk cables| PS Audio PCs
  • stubby
    stubby Posts: 723
    edited February 2009
    Kinda strange that it only happens on THAT ONE recording. Does it pop worse with more volume? Can you distinguish a particlular driver(s)?
    Also, since the polyswitch pops earlier on the same speaker, the right channel may have received a "hit" earlier in it's life. Hit meaning a clipped signal.
    I wish you luck, good man.

    stubby
    SRS 3.1TL
    Harman Kardon Citation 5.1
    Anthem AVM2



  • danger boy
    danger boy Posts: 15,722
    edited February 2009
    what kind of music are you listening to and do you have the bass turned up on the recever/pre amp?
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  • tcrossma
    tcrossma Posts: 1,301
    edited February 2009
    Any chance of just swapping the right and left speakers to rule out a possible recording/amp/source issue? If you swap speakers and the popping sound remains, then it's something other than the speaker. If it turns out the issue either follows the speaker or disappears (due to different R/L in the recording), then you could try swapping drivers and/or changing the poly switches as mentioned.

    Keep in mind I have zero SDA experience, so I certainly defer to the others on advice here, but it seems to me a simple swapping of the speakers would be the logical first step.
    Speakers: Polk LSi15
    Pre: Adcom GFP-750 with HT Bypass
    Amp: Pass Labs X-150
    CD/DVD Player: Classe CDP-10
    Interconnects: MIT Shortgun S3 Pro XLR
    Speaker cables: MIT MH-750 bi-wire
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  • nooshinjohn
    nooshinjohn Posts: 25,461
    edited February 2009
    danger boy wrote: »
    what kind of music are you listening to and do you have the bass turned up on the recever/pre amp?

    This was on a Patti Labelle live form washington cd... the popping takes place prior to the tweeters shutting down. On other recordings I get no pop but the tweeters shut down at about the same volume levels. The reciever was set to pure direct mode so no coloration or bass enhancement was in use. I believe that one of the drivers may very well be on its way out. I plan on calling polk for the replacement parts for the tweeter problem and perhaps a full set of drivers for both speakers. I will then use the older drivers to build myself a matching center channel:D:D:D

    I do have one passive on the left that I know needs some help and the one on the right is ok. There are no air leaks of any kind and I have resealed everything with mortite. until I complete the upgrades I will back it down on the volume a bit. My wife will be grateful for the relief:cool:
    The Gear... Carver "Statement" Mono-blocks, Mcintosh C2300 Arcam AVR20, Oppo UDP-203 4K Blu-ray player, Sony XBR70x850B 4k, Polk Audio Legend L800 with height modules, L400 Center Channel Polk audio AB800 "in-wall" surrounds. Marantz MM7025 stereo amp. Simaudio Moon 680d DSD

    “When once a Republic is corrupted, there is no possibility of remedying any of the growing evils but by removing the corruption and restoring its lost principles; every other correction is either useless or a new evil.”— Thomas Jefferson