SDA1c right channel issues
nooshinjohn
Posts: 25,461
:(Just discovered today when listening to a very good quality recording that my right channel speaker makes a popping sound at moderate to high volume.
At first I assumed that it was in the recording, as the drummer hits the casing of the drums from time to time as part of his performance. All drivers test perfectly and there is no scratchiness or resistance when moving them manually. The popping sound for the time being seems limited to this recording... The same speaker however also has a habit of shutting down the high frequencies at louder volumes regardless of the material being listened to. They will restore themselves when volume is reduced. The left speaker performs flawlessly regardless of the demand placed upon it.
The speakers are being driven by a :DCarver TFM-35:D that is delivering around 300 wpc at 6 ohm, and is performing quite well. Any ideas as to a possible cause/solution?
Thanks guys for the help/advice
At first I assumed that it was in the recording, as the drummer hits the casing of the drums from time to time as part of his performance. All drivers test perfectly and there is no scratchiness or resistance when moving them manually. The popping sound for the time being seems limited to this recording... The same speaker however also has a habit of shutting down the high frequencies at louder volumes regardless of the material being listened to. They will restore themselves when volume is reduced. The left speaker performs flawlessly regardless of the demand placed upon it.
The speakers are being driven by a :DCarver TFM-35:D that is delivering around 300 wpc at 6 ohm, and is performing quite well. Any ideas as to a possible cause/solution?
Thanks guys for the help/advice
The Gear... Carver "Statement" Mono-blocks, Mcintosh C2300 Arcam AVR20, Oppo UDP-203 4K Blu-ray player, Sony XBR70x850B 4k, Polk Audio Legend L800 with height modules, L400 Center Channel Polk audio AB800 "in-wall" surrounds. Marantz MM7025 stereo amp. Simaudio Moon 680d DSD
“When once a Republic is corrupted, there is no possibility of remedying any of the growing evils but by removing the corruption and restoring its lost principles; every other correction is either useless or a new evil.”— Thomas Jefferson
“When once a Republic is corrupted, there is no possibility of remedying any of the growing evils but by removing the corruption and restoring its lost principles; every other correction is either useless or a new evil.”— Thomas Jefferson
Post edited by nooshinjohn on
Comments
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The problem with the tweeter shutting down is most likely caused by the polyswitch tripping too early. You should replace it along with the one in the left speaker.
The popping may be the result of an air leak. It could also be caused by a faulty PR. Take it out and inspect the rear area for separation.
Something else to try, swap all the drivers and PR from speaker to speaker to see if the problem goes with them or stays with the right speaker.driven by a Carver TFM-35 that is delivering around 300 wpc at 6 ohm
Watts are not everything and not guarantee that an amp has what it takes to drive the SDA's. It could easily being clipping.
Then there's always the possibility that you have a problem with the right channel in your amp.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
John
Polk Audio is kind enough to supply the polyswitches at no charge which a nice thing. They are also real easy to replace but you probably already know that.
One more thing to be aware of is if you have anything wire crossed/out of phase you can hear something similar to what you are hearing. I know this beacuse I had the experience myself.
Drew -
I have the same thing going on with a pair of SDA 2B's. I should swap out the poly switchs but I haven't gotten around to it. At this point, I just play the speakers at moderate levels. They sound fine until I start cranking it up. I would change out the polyswitches either way if I were you to be on the safe side.Polk HT system 1: LSIC, LSI25 mains, LSI F/X rears, Lsi F/X rear centers,
Yamaha RX-V2500 System, Carver A753 3 channel amp.
Polk HT system 2: , SRT system with f/x 1,000's rear speakers on 7.1 system currently using Onkyo TX-RZ820 receiver, powered by Sunfire Grand Theater amp
Polk Speaker collection: SDA SRS 1.2tl x 2, SRT system, SDA SRS 2 P/B, SDA 2A, SDA 1C Studio, SDA CRS+, Monitor 7B & 4, SRS 3.1tl, RTA 15tl, LS90, LSI 9 -
Sorry to hear about the bad luck John. Hope you get it figured out though.
Sounds like Jesse's probably right about the polyswitches though.The nirvana inducer-
APC H10 Power Conditioner
Marantz UD5005 universal player
Parasound Halo P5 preamp
Parasound HCA-1200II power amp
PolkAudio LSi9's/PolkAudio SDA 2A's/PolkAudio Monitor 7A's
Audioquest Speaker Cables and IC's -
comfortablycurt wrote: »
Sounds like Jesse's probably right about the polyswitches though.
You have doubts about our CP president troubleshooting on this? :mad:
Sorry to hear your SDA1C problem too, John. I don't know the fix for it since I have no SDA experience. Good Luck fixing it and try F1 idea to pinpoint the problem.Trying out Different Audio Cables is a Religious Affair. You don't discuss it with anyone. :redface::biggrin: -
You have doubts about our CP president troubleshooting on this? :mad:
Sorry to hear your SDA1C problem too, John. I don't know the fix for it since I have no SDA experience. Good Luck fixing it and try F1 idea to pinpoint the problem.
lol...No, I don't have any doubts. That's why I said he's probably right.;)
But as I don't have any SDA experience myself...I'm not going to say that he is right...lolThe nirvana inducer-
APC H10 Power Conditioner
Marantz UD5005 universal player
Parasound Halo P5 preamp
Parasound HCA-1200II power amp
PolkAudio LSi9's/PolkAudio SDA 2A's/PolkAudio Monitor 7A's
Audioquest Speaker Cables and IC's -
It could also be caused by a faulty PR. Take it out and inspect the rear area for separation.
.
+1, my right 1C had the spider and styrofoam seperated, it resulted in lower output than the left. I did not have any popping but it is still worth the look.Speakers: SDA-1C (most all the goodies)
Preamp: Joule Electra LA-150 MKII SE
Amp: Wright WPA 50-50 EAT KT88s
Analog: Marantz TT-15S1 MBS Glider SL| Wright WPP100C Amperex BB 6er5 and 7316 & WPM-100 SUT
Digital: Mac mini 2.3GHz dual-core i5 8g RAM 1.5 TB HDD Music Server Amarra (memory play) - USB - W4S DAC 2
Cables: Mits S3 IC and Spk cables| PS Audio PCs -
Kinda strange that it only happens on THAT ONE recording. Does it pop worse with more volume? Can you distinguish a particlular driver(s)?
Also, since the polyswitch pops earlier on the same speaker, the right channel may have received a "hit" earlier in it's life. Hit meaning a clipped signal.
I wish you luck, good man.
stubbySRS 3.1TL
Harman Kardon Citation 5.1
Anthem AVM2 -
what kind of music are you listening to and do you have the bass turned up on the recever/pre amp?PolkFest 2012, who's going>?
Vancouver, Canada Sept 30th, 2012 - Madonna concert :cheesygrin: -
Any chance of just swapping the right and left speakers to rule out a possible recording/amp/source issue? If you swap speakers and the popping sound remains, then it's something other than the speaker. If it turns out the issue either follows the speaker or disappears (due to different R/L in the recording), then you could try swapping drivers and/or changing the poly switches as mentioned.
Keep in mind I have zero SDA experience, so I certainly defer to the others on advice here, but it seems to me a simple swapping of the speakers would be the logical first step.Speakers: Polk LSi15
Pre: Adcom GFP-750 with HT Bypass
Amp: Pass Labs X-150
CD/DVD Player: Classe CDP-10
Interconnects: MIT Shortgun S3 Pro XLR
Speaker cables: MIT MH-750 bi-wire
TT:Micro Seiki DD-35
Cartridge:Denon DL-160
Phono Pre:PS Audio GCPH -
danger boy wrote: »what kind of music are you listening to and do you have the bass turned up on the recever/pre amp?
This was on a Patti Labelle live form washington cd... the popping takes place prior to the tweeters shutting down. On other recordings I get no pop but the tweeters shut down at about the same volume levels. The reciever was set to pure direct mode so no coloration or bass enhancement was in use. I believe that one of the drivers may very well be on its way out. I plan on calling polk for the replacement parts for the tweeter problem and perhaps a full set of drivers for both speakers. I will then use the older drivers to build myself a matching center channel:D:D:D
I do have one passive on the left that I know needs some help and the one on the right is ok. There are no air leaks of any kind and I have resealed everything with mortite. until I complete the upgrades I will back it down on the volume a bit. My wife will be grateful for the relief:cool:The Gear... Carver "Statement" Mono-blocks, Mcintosh C2300 Arcam AVR20, Oppo UDP-203 4K Blu-ray player, Sony XBR70x850B 4k, Polk Audio Legend L800 with height modules, L400 Center Channel Polk audio AB800 "in-wall" surrounds. Marantz MM7025 stereo amp. Simaudio Moon 680d DSD
“When once a Republic is corrupted, there is no possibility of remedying any of the growing evils but by removing the corruption and restoring its lost principles; every other correction is either useless or a new evil.”— Thomas Jefferson