bi-amping - Monitor 50

crazzeto
crazzeto Posts: 4
Hey all, this is my first post here (just joined)... I tried searching the forum for "bi-amping" threads and the search function didn't return anything. I quickly realized the search function seems to, at the very least not work the way I would expect, so I checked out the first 3 pages to see if there was a post on the exact subject above. There didn't seem to be, anyway:

I just received some polk monitor 50's from newegg a few days ago. With the help of a friend I have them installed and humming (thundering) along beautifully! I'm very impressed with the audio quality upgrade over my yamaha "starter" speaker set. That said, I can't help but want to eek every last bit of performance out of them, what can I say I'm a nut.. So I'm already going to be bi-amping these suckers, just as soon as I get my spool of speaker wire in from monoprice (14 guage).

My question is this (sorry for not cutting to the chase), reading over the instructions out of my Onkyo 605 user manual I it made a reference to removing the jumper bars connecting the tweeter and woofer termianls. At first I was a little confused since there wasn't an obvious connector bar, but then a light bulb went off and I realized that they must be referencing the brass plates located under the terminal posts running vertically. I'm 99% sure that must be what they're talking about but before I go tearing my speakers terminal connectors appart on the day my speaker wire arrives I just wanted to double check.

Other than that I'm feeling pretty confident about this process, the wireing diagram couldn't be eaiser and I'm pretty sure the 605 should successfully activate the bi-amping it's self once wired (perhaps after re-running Audyssey? I plan to anyway).
Post edited by crazzeto on

Comments

  • nooshinjohn
    nooshinjohn Posts: 25,445
    edited February 2009
    from a receiver I do not believe you will hear as much of a difference as you hope...
    I was very much in your spot not that long ago. I joined this place and the next thing you know I've got SDA's, a new amp coming to run them and a new 5 channel amp to run the other 5 speakers.... I thought receivers were all I would ever need:p....

    :)Long and short is my 50's did not sound different with bi-amping thru my much more powerful yamaha than they did running in a normal configuration.

    Welcome to club polk. here you will find some of the coolest and helpful people on the net, but I must warn you that if you stay here long enough these guys will help you spend more money on things you never knew you needed but always wanted, and you will be gladd you did:D:D:D
    The Gear... Carver "Statement" Mono-blocks, Mcintosh C2300 Arcam AVR20, Oppo UDP-203 4K Blu-ray player, Sony XBR70x850B 4k, Polk Audio Legend L800 with height modules, L400 Center Channel Polk audio AB800 "in-wall" surrounds. Marantz MM7025 stereo amp. Simaudio Moon 680d DSD

    “When once a Republic is corrupted, there is no possibility of remedying any of the growing evils but by removing the corruption and restoring its lost principles; every other correction is either useless or a new evil.”— Thomas Jefferson
  • comfortablycurt
    comfortablycurt Posts: 6,745
    edited February 2009
    To answer your question, yes those brass plates are the jumpers they're referring to. Make sure you remove them before you bi-amp.

    That being said though, as nooshinjohn mentioned, bi-amping with an AVR isn't really bi-amping. It's technically bi-wiring. You're not actually going to be driving your speakers with any more power by wiring them that way. The power is still all coming from one source, so it's not as if the power going to your two speakers is going to double or anything. It's still going to be the same amount of power.

    Some people have reported improvements by doing this, but the improvements were minimal at best. Most people have reported that there weren't any improvements at all though. By all means give it a try, and if it sounds better to you...then go for it. Don't be prepared to get blown away though.

    That 605 is a good receiver though, I own a 606, which is the newer version of it. I couldn't be happier with it...it's only drawback being the lack of pre-amp outputs, making connection of external amps impossible. That aside though, it's a great AVR, especially for it's price point.

    By the way, welcome to Club Polk.:)
    The nirvana inducer-
    APC H10 Power Conditioner
    Marantz UD5005 universal player
    Parasound Halo P5 preamp
    Parasound HCA-1200II power amp
    PolkAudio LSi9's/PolkAudio SDA 2A's/PolkAudio Monitor 7A's
    Audioquest Speaker Cables and IC's
  • crazzeto
    crazzeto Posts: 4
    edited February 2009
    Thanks guys, yeah I"m not sure what I'm expecting out of this if anything at all... But I figured I'd give it a shot, I'm not going to be going 7.1 any time soon so bi-amping is the better option for me right now... Isn't part of the point of bi-amping also to better seperate frequencies between the tweeter and woofers? Or so I thought, wouldn't you gain something there?
  • nooshinjohn
    nooshinjohn Posts: 25,445
    edited February 2009
    perhaps but as Curt pointed out, with a receiver you are still getting the power fron the same source. If your ear can here the difference you have better hearing than I. this is why I have bought an outside amp. does your Onkyo have pre-outs?
    The Gear... Carver "Statement" Mono-blocks, Mcintosh C2300 Arcam AVR20, Oppo UDP-203 4K Blu-ray player, Sony XBR70x850B 4k, Polk Audio Legend L800 with height modules, L400 Center Channel Polk audio AB800 "in-wall" surrounds. Marantz MM7025 stereo amp. Simaudio Moon 680d DSD

    “When once a Republic is corrupted, there is no possibility of remedying any of the growing evils but by removing the corruption and restoring its lost principles; every other correction is either useless or a new evil.”— Thomas Jefferson
  • comfortablycurt
    comfortablycurt Posts: 6,745
    edited February 2009
    crazzeto wrote: »
    Thanks guys, yeah I"m not sure what I'm expecting out of this if anything at all... But I figured I'd give it a shot, I'm not going to be going 7.1 any time soon so bi-amping is the better option for me right now... Isn't part of the point of bi-amping also to better seperate frequencies between the tweeter and woofers? Or so I thought, wouldn't you gain something there?

    It does supposedly have some advantages...but the advantages are somewhat debatable. Separating the signal from the mid/tweeter array from the woofers does theoretically give you some improvements, but as I said before, the improvements are going to be minimal at best.
    The nirvana inducer-
    APC H10 Power Conditioner
    Marantz UD5005 universal player
    Parasound Halo P5 preamp
    Parasound HCA-1200II power amp
    PolkAudio LSi9's/PolkAudio SDA 2A's/PolkAudio Monitor 7A's
    Audioquest Speaker Cables and IC's
  • Mike21
    Mike21 Posts: 252
    edited February 2009
    Hi crazzeto.

    When I first set up my M50s w/ an Onk 805 I tried "bi-amping" but heard no sound improvemnt. Doesn't mean you shouldn't try it.

    Mike19
    Toshiba HD-DVDP A2
    Samy 1500 BDP
    Onk 805 -avr
    Polk M50 - L&R
    Polk CS2 - Center
    Polk M40s - sides
    B&W LM1 - rear
    ____________________________________________
    Home Theater 32"LG LCD; Comcast; 7.1 Onkyo 805; Fronts: Polk M50s; Center: Polk CS2; Sides: Polk M40s; Rear: B&W LM1s; Subs: (2) Sony 12" x 100w; Samsung 1500BDP; Toshiba A-2 HD-DVDP.
    PC stereo: Viper custom PC: Windows XP; ASIO4ALL; JRiver Jukebox> Pop Pulse USB to S/PDIF conv> Monarchy DIP > Musiland MD10 DAC > Parasound 2100 pre> Aragon 4004 MKII amp> Dali Ikon6 towers; Sunfire True Sub; PSA Duet, Ultimate outlet and Noise Harvestors.
  • hearingimpared
    hearingimpared Posts: 21,137
    edited February 2009
  • natchie
    natchie Posts: 10
    edited February 2009
    I have also been confused by this bi-amping and bi-wiring. Let me ask as a newbie once again...there are four speaker terminals, one pair for lower frequency and the other pair for higher frequency. If I only connect regularly with two wires, should I just connect to the lower frequency for now and not worry about the higher frequency. From What I learned at home here, it seemed that the higher frequency pair just spit out higher frequency, but when switched to lower, the regular full sounds from lower frequency came alive...hmm.

    BTW, using Yamaha RX 663 for everything, including HD-DVD, BD to turntable (one at a time, of course)
  • crazzeto
    crazzeto Posts: 4
    edited February 2009
    If you're not going to bi-amp/wire then as far as I know you should be able to connect the wires to either terminal, the terminal connector running between the posts will ensure the signal makes it to all speakers in the monitor 50 (or other model #).

    If you're going to bi-wire/amp then you need to remove that terminal connector otherwise you'll get a short between the amps/or amp outputs which could be really bad depending upon how well designed your amp(s) is.

    Thanks to curt and mike we now know for sure that that peice of brass running vertically between the posts is in fact that terminal connector, thanks guys. I'm curious to here what, if any, difference this will make.
  • comfortablycurt
    comfortablycurt Posts: 6,745
    edited February 2009
    The little brass plate that's between the two pairs of terminals is a jumper. Plugging into just one of the pairs of terminals will still power the whole array. It doesn't matter which pair you use. The thing to remember, is that if you are going to bi-wire them, make sure that you remove the jumpers. Failure to do so could severely damage your speakers.
    The nirvana inducer-
    APC H10 Power Conditioner
    Marantz UD5005 universal player
    Parasound Halo P5 preamp
    Parasound HCA-1200II power amp
    PolkAudio LSi9's/PolkAudio SDA 2A's/PolkAudio Monitor 7A's
    Audioquest Speaker Cables and IC's
  • hearingimpared
    hearingimpared Posts: 21,137
    edited February 2009
    Whether you are going to bi-wire or bi-amp your speakers, you must remove the jumper.
  • ShinAce
    ShinAce Posts: 1,194
    edited February 2009
    Only bi-wire if you have a really good amp with a really good damping factor.

    Only bi-amp if you're serious, have multiple amps and an electronic crossover.

    Otherwise, you're just playing in the sandbox.
  • comfortablycurt
    comfortablycurt Posts: 6,745
    edited February 2009
    ShinAce wrote: »
    Only bi-wire if you have a really good amp with a really good damping factor.

    Only bi-amp if you're serious, have multiple amps and an electronic crossover.

    Otherwise, you're just playing in the sandbox.

    Very well put.
    The nirvana inducer-
    APC H10 Power Conditioner
    Marantz UD5005 universal player
    Parasound Halo P5 preamp
    Parasound HCA-1200II power amp
    PolkAudio LSi9's/PolkAudio SDA 2A's/PolkAudio Monitor 7A's
    Audioquest Speaker Cables and IC's
  • Mike21
    Mike21 Posts: 252
    edited February 2009
    Hi Crezzeto

    If you are not going to bi-wire or bi-amp your M50s, then attach your speaker wires to the TOP posts as per the diagram in your Owner's Manual. And make sure to keep the metal jumpers in place.

    Mike19
    ____________________________________________
    Home Theater 32"LG LCD; Comcast; 7.1 Onkyo 805; Fronts: Polk M50s; Center: Polk CS2; Sides: Polk M40s; Rear: B&W LM1s; Subs: (2) Sony 12" x 100w; Samsung 1500BDP; Toshiba A-2 HD-DVDP.
    PC stereo: Viper custom PC: Windows XP; ASIO4ALL; JRiver Jukebox> Pop Pulse USB to S/PDIF conv> Monarchy DIP > Musiland MD10 DAC > Parasound 2100 pre> Aragon 4004 MKII amp> Dali Ikon6 towers; Sunfire True Sub; PSA Duet, Ultimate outlet and Noise Harvestors.
  • crazzeto
    crazzeto Posts: 4
    edited February 2009
    Um, well i will be bi-amp/wiring soon enough so I'm fine for the moment... I haven't removed the connectors yet.

    Edit
    Mike, I am curious though why you favor the top terminal post? Just to match the UM or is there a reason I'm not aware of... Based on my (admitingly limited) knowlege it seems like connecting to either post should power the full array equally.
  • madwoody
    madwoody Posts: 1
    hi everybody just bought some monitor 50's they got here nice looking in great shape.bought them from polk referbed. they came with gold metal strip where you hook up speaker wires to im'm hooking them to a sansui 7070 i've never saw these on speakers. what do i do with them ? do i need to leave them on to hook it up? sorry i'm new to these speakers.
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,645
    Those are the jumpers and must be connected to get sound from the tweeter and drivers at the same time. That said, replacing the stock jumpers with high quality speaker cable will result in better performance.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

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    President of Club Polk

  • Jimbo18
    Jimbo18 Posts: 2,336
    madwoody wrote: »
    hi everybody just bought some monitor 50's they got here nice looking in great shape.bought them from polk referbed. they came with gold metal strip where you hook up speaker wires to im'm hooking them to a sansui 7070 i've never saw these on speakers. what do i do with them ? do i need to leave them on to hook it up? sorry i'm new to these speakers.

    Just hook your speaker wires to either the top or bottom set of terminals on each speaker. Either leave the jumper plate in place, or better yet, remove it and use some speaker wire to take it's place.

    And welcome to Club Polk. Lots of good folks here that can help you out.