How to remove stubborn driver on LSiC?

Face

I'm trying to remove the left woofer and am having a difficult time removing it from the cabinet. The right woofer was a little stubborn, but I was able to remove the crossover and push from behind, unfortunately that's not a option for the left woofer.

I pushed my hand as far as possible into the tweeter's cutout and tried to push forward on the magnet but I can't get enough leverage. I also tried using a pick in one of the woofer's mounting holes, between the driver frame and cabinet, nothing.

Since the driver has been mounted in this cabinet for a few years, maybe leaving the screws out overnight, or for a day or two may help? I'm not going to have any skin left on my knuckle if I continue to put my hand through the tweeter hole.

Thanks!

Systems

I have had success using a flat precision srcewdriver in the driver screw holes and wedging it under the basket.You might be able to get it under farther than the pick.

Face

Thanks Fred.

Using a small screwdriver seemed to work a little better, but not good enough. I heard a few small clicks from the cabinet, like the driver was about to be released, it wasn't enough. It's almost like they installed the driver with the paint still wet.

I'll try again tomorrow when I regain my patience.

comfortablycurt

Face wrote: »

Thanks Fred.

Using a small screwdriver seemed to work a little better, but not good enough. I heard a few small clicks from the cabinet, like the driver was about to be released, it wasn't enough. It's almost like they installed the driver with the paint still wet.

I'll try again tomorrow when I regain my patience.

I've found when doing things like that and you're having a lot of trouble...sometimes you are better off putting it to the side and waiting til later...rather than getting aggravated and breaking something.

I've had a few learning experiences in that department before unfortunately...lol

It might not work as well for you...but I was trying to remove a tweeter from one of my speaker cabs a few weeks ago...and I couldn't find anything to pry it out with. I ended up using a pair of toenail clippers that has the swing out file on it. It's kinda got a hook on the end up helped get under it and break the seal.

Might not work for you...but it did the trick for me.

Face

Thanks, but the tolerances are too tight and using that method I'd probably ruin the finish of the speaker.

Maybe I'll turn it upside down, put it over my knee, and give it a good old spanking.

comfortablycurt

Yeah...looks like that probably wouldn't work on those. I had a bit more of a gap to work with on the speakers I was talking about.

Sounds like the spanking might be your best bet...lol

mmadden28

Just a thought...what about putting it outside or something-let it chill and contract??
Maybe?

ShinAce

I'm with GV on this one.

I've used silicone caulking to make gaskets before. It's good times when you try and remove the driver, even if the silicone had time to dry. Get a screwdriver in the speaker rim and start prying little by little(use force).

Are you trashing the driver or working on the xover?

Face

Crossover...thanks guys.

ben62670

Have you tried to heat it up with a torch yet. Work the flame around the cabinet to expand it a little, and whack the back of it with a ball peen hammer a few times. It should pop right out.
Seriously MM had a good Idea. Temperature change may help. Let it get cold and try it, then try it as it warms up, then try it when warm again. Point is dissimilar materials expand and contract differently at different temps.
Don't hurt your back Bro!
Take care.
Ben

ben62670

The more I think about it the driver will chill/shrink faster than the MDF. MM is is on to something. Try every ten minutes or so while it is cooling down. Don't bust that magnet loose!

Sami

Face wrote: »

Crossover...thanks guys.

Sucks. I had to completely rip the driver apart to get it off from my 15's. Luckily that was what I was replacing so no harm done. I tried to get it off without harming it but it would have been very hard. Good luck!

zingo

I also think the freezing/shrinking idea sounds good. Even if the basket shrinks faster than the cab, it still should do the job.

suprafantx

I think you can use small (not too small) flat head screw driver and pry it out from the 6 scew holes. Hope that will work.

John30_30

Dead-blow hammer over a ball-peen or regular steel-head,
if hammering's the thing. Ring-a-ding-ding.

Sounds like it's got some sealant hardening issues. If the screw holes are round, you might be able to gently work a tap & die in some opposing holes, through the backing MDF. Then gently work 2 machine screws the same threading in the holes to serve as grabbers.

Another tool I use- don't know if it's practical, but I use a dental pick to work into tight spaces. If there is a sealant issue, you might be able to cut through it with one of these. Found at most drugstores.

Systems

Did you get it freed up Mike?

Face

Came down with a nasty head cold, I'll give it another whirl tomorrow or the day after.

Face

xcapri79 wrote: »

What will fanatics do with some nice speakers?

Make them even better.

Face

Success!

I found someone with smaller hands that was able to get their hand all the way inside the cabinet. They then pushed on the back of the magnet as I used a screwdriver in one of the mounting holes.

ben62670

Very good. You feeling better?

NotaSuv

for me its always the last nut,bolt or screw that never wants to come loose be it audio or auto

always good to get that last one off......and move on

good luck with the crossovers

Face

ben62670 wrote: »

Very good. You feeling better?

Yes I am, thanks.

Serendipity

Who's system is this for?

Don't you already have a setup with the Tannoy's?

Face

It's for someone who doesn't even have a home theater.

Systems

Face wrote: »

Success!

Great.This is the one getting the xover makeover?

Face

Yes it is. I will get to it sometime in the next week(while my other projects are drying).

Face

Systems

Excellent example of an xover upgrade.Good choice using the air cores.

ben62670

The stock LSIc had a 1.2mh iron core in series with the mid driver. Not the best component. Very nice Face. Are you going to attach the components to a board?
Ben

Face

Thanks guys.

Board(s) are probably not needed. Between using velcro and the polyfill/stuffing in place, everything appears to be secure.

m00npie

Looks great! I can't wait to hear it.