Repair Advice

Options
heiney9
heiney9 Posts: 25,106
edited September 2010 in Electronics
I have a small problem with this Adcom GCA-510. It's a high gain "integrated" amp that uses a completely passive pre amplifier section. Actually there is no typical pre-amplifer stage. They refer to it as "line stage"

It has playback and recording switching, bal. control and vol. control. It seems the Right channel has an intermittent cut out and can get very slightly fuzzy at times. It's completely random independent of volume level or run time. Comes in and out or sometimes not at all.

Any ideas where to look for cold solder joints. I used Caig on all the controls as it acts like a dirty/dusty potentiometer. That didn't help at all. I'm thinking of pulling the rail fuses and cleaning those as well as the fuse holders. Except as you can see in the picture the fuses are in a very, very tight area. I can't get my fingers in there to pull them. Any ideas????

Also if I wanted to inspect the bottom of the main board how would I do that without de-soldering all the trannies? I suppose I could remove the entire assembly cooling fins and all. I'm thinking more along the lines of bad solder joint vs bad components.

Here's a long distance (borrowed) picture of the innards.

Ben would you work on this? Not much hope of getting the service manual as this was a fairly rare, limited run piece mostly sold in Canada and overseas.
"Appreciation of audio is a completely subjective human experience. Measurements can provide a measure of insight, but are no substitute for human judgment. Why are we looking to reduce a subjective experience to objective criteria anyway? The subtleties of music and audio reproduction are for those who appreciate it. Differentiation by numbers is for those who do not".--Nelson Pass Pass Labs XA25 | EE Avant Pre | EE Mini Max Supreme DAC | MIT Shotgun S1 | Pangea AC14SE MKII | Legend L600 | BlueSound Node 3 - Tubes add soul!
Post edited by heiney9 on

Comments

  • heiney9
    heiney9 Posts: 25,106
    edited January 2009
    Options
    TTP.......Somebody has to have some advice or discussion.:)
    "Appreciation of audio is a completely subjective human experience. Measurements can provide a measure of insight, but are no substitute for human judgment. Why are we looking to reduce a subjective experience to objective criteria anyway? The subtleties of music and audio reproduction are for those who appreciate it. Differentiation by numbers is for those who do not".--Nelson Pass Pass Labs XA25 | EE Avant Pre | EE Mini Max Supreme DAC | MIT Shotgun S1 | Pangea AC14SE MKII | Legend L600 | BlueSound Node 3 - Tubes add soul!
  • BigMac
    BigMac Posts: 849
    edited January 2009
    Options
    Hi. I have no repair experience at all but here is a schematic of the insides of your unit. I could not find a repair manual but if I do I will post it. Hope this makes sense to you or someone else. It is Greek to me,lol. Hope this helps you out some.

    Link: http://www.sendspace.com/file/ye28sr
  • engtaz
    engtaz Posts: 7,655
    edited January 2009
    Options
    Cold solder joints are usually hair line crack in the solder. usually where compenent lead is soldered to the board. You should be able to lift the whole assemmbly out tranformer and all.

    engtaz
    engtaz

    I love how music can brighten up a bad day.
  • engtaz
    engtaz Posts: 7,655
    edited January 2009
    Options
    Great job BigMac
    engtaz

    I love how music can brighten up a bad day.
  • heiney9
    heiney9 Posts: 25,106
    edited January 2009
    Options
    BigMac wrote: »
    Hi. I have no repair experience at all but here is a schematic of the insides of your unit. I could not find a repair manual but if I do I will post it. Hope this makes sense to you or someone else. It is Greek to me,lol. Hope this helps you out some.

    Link: http://www.sendspace.com/file/ye28sr

    Thanks a lot for the link!!!! Where did you find that? DIY Audio?
    engtaz wrote: »
    Cold solder joints are usually hair line crack in the solder. usually where compenent lead is soldered to the board. You should be able to lift the whole assemmbly out tranformer and all.

    engtaz

    It's been a while since I did any trouble shooting............any tips on what to look for visually or where in the circuit to start?

    H9
    "Appreciation of audio is a completely subjective human experience. Measurements can provide a measure of insight, but are no substitute for human judgment. Why are we looking to reduce a subjective experience to objective criteria anyway? The subtleties of music and audio reproduction are for those who appreciate it. Differentiation by numbers is for those who do not".--Nelson Pass Pass Labs XA25 | EE Avant Pre | EE Mini Max Supreme DAC | MIT Shotgun S1 | Pangea AC14SE MKII | Legend L600 | BlueSound Node 3 - Tubes add soul!
  • billbillw
    billbillw Posts: 6,325
    edited January 2009
    Options
    Heiney, when you say you used Caig, do you mean the 5% Deoxit flushing spray? That is what you should be using for cleaning pots/switches.

    If so, did you use it on those input slider switches too? (I am assuming that is what I see towards the bottom/front of the gut shot)

    Those are notorious for causing cutouts.

    As far as finding cold solder joints, you usually need to see the bottom of the circuit board. Get a magnifying glass and start by looking for joints that are dull or otherwise look different that all the others. Examine those more closely to see if there are any visible cracks. Sometimes you need to put some pressure on the leads to see the crack. I usually re-flow any leads that are suspect to be sure.

    Good luck.
    For rig details, see my profile. Nothing here anymore...
  • BigMac
    BigMac Posts: 849
    edited January 2009
    Options
    heiney9 wrote: »
    Thanks a lot for the link!!!! Where did you find that? DIY Audio?

    I called Adcom and asked them to send me a schematic so they emailed me one. Then I just uploaded the .pdf to a server you could get it from. They did not have a repair manual but I think I may have found one that someone put together. Just waiting for a response back from them. I hope to get a response but ya' never know.

    No DIY audio but I did read that particular thread you are referring to with yourself and Ben. Was looking all over the place to try and find out something to help you. All I located was the manual doing the normal search on Google and a few other search engines and that would have been no help for your issue.
  • engtaz
    engtaz Posts: 7,655
    edited January 2009
    Options
    I will try to look at the schematic when I get off work.

    engtaz
    engtaz

    I love how music can brighten up a bad day.
  • ben62670
    ben62670 Posts: 15,969
    edited January 2009
    Options
    It doesn't look too complicated compared to a 585:) I am guessing like others have suggested a solder joint gone bad, or a DC blocking cap. You could trace the input wires from the selector switch and bypass them so a single source would go straight to the volume pot. Also you could try flexing the boards a bit. I can't read the diagram well enough to see values.
    Please. Please contact me a ben62670 @ yahoo.com. Make sure to include who you are, and you are from Polk so I don't delete your email. Also I am now physically unable to work on any projects. If you need help let these guys know. There are many people who will help if you let them know where you are.
    Thanks
    Ben
  • heiney9
    heiney9 Posts: 25,106
    edited January 2009
    Options
    BigMac wrote: »
    I called Adcom and asked them to send me a schematic so they emailed me one. Then I just uploaded the .pdf to a server you could get it from. They did not have a repair manual but I think I may have found one that someone put together. Just waiting for a response back from them. I hope to get a response but ya' never know.

    No DIY audio but I did read that particular thread you are referring to with yourself and Ben. Was looking all over the place to try and find out something to help you. All I located was the manual doing the normal search on Google and a few other search engines and that would have been no help for your issue.

    Thanks again for your help............didn't cross my mind to call Adcom. I keep forgetting they are still a viable company and have really good support.
    ben62670 wrote: »
    It doesn't look too complicated compared to a 585:) I am guessing like others have suggested a solder joint gone bad, or a DC blocking cap. You could trace the input wires from the selector switch and bypass them so a single source would go straight to the volume pot. Also you could try flexing the boards a bit. I can't read the diagram well enough to see values.

    Not sure there are DC blocking caps. This is a very simple design, I'm guessing production was around 1997-1998.

    I'll give a bit more background. The thread I started on DIY awhile ago was for a different GCA510, it was my brothers. I was going to buy it from him but is basically had the same issue I'm now having with a different GCA510. Before he sold his unit on ebay he ttok it to the only local repair shop in town and they gave it a clean bill of health. He never heard anything from the buyer after he sold it.............but it never worked right I thought.

    It seems now I'm having the same issue only on a more intermittent level. I've tried using different cables both I/C's and speaker cables. Different sources, etc. to isolate the issue to the unit.

    As far as Caig, I used Dexoit and I did get into the switching, bal and vol controls as good as I could.

    Keep the ideas coming. It will be awhile before I tear into it to try and find a cold solder joint. I suspect that's what it is.
    "Appreciation of audio is a completely subjective human experience. Measurements can provide a measure of insight, but are no substitute for human judgment. Why are we looking to reduce a subjective experience to objective criteria anyway? The subtleties of music and audio reproduction are for those who appreciate it. Differentiation by numbers is for those who do not".--Nelson Pass Pass Labs XA25 | EE Avant Pre | EE Mini Max Supreme DAC | MIT Shotgun S1 | Pangea AC14SE MKII | Legend L600 | BlueSound Node 3 - Tubes add soul!
  • sucks2beme
    sucks2beme Posts: 5,575
    edited January 2009
    Options
    I second the visual check of the board for solder breaks.
    Get yourself a good lighted magnifier and go nuts. I found a
    solder pad crack on one of the inputs for my Parasound pre.
    The problem was driving me crazy.
    "The legitimate powers of government extend to such acts only as are injurious to others. But it does me no injury for my neighbour to say there are twenty gods, or no god. It neither picks my pocket nor breaks my leg." --Thomas Jefferson
  • TNRabbit
    TNRabbit Posts: 2,168
    edited January 2009
    Options
    sucks2beme wrote: »
    I second the visual check of the board for solder breaks.
    Get yourself a good lighted magnifier and go nuts. I found a
    solder pad crack on one of the inputs for my Parasound pre.
    The problem was driving me crazy.

    Wow; it must have sucked to b u...


    :D
    TNRabbit
    NO Polk Audio Equipment :eek:
    Sunfire TG-IV
    Ashly 1001 Active Crossover
    Rane PEQ-15 Parametric Equalizers x 2
    Sunfire Cinema Grand Signature Seven
    Carver AL-III Speakers
    Klipsch RT-12d Subwoofer
  • heiney9
    heiney9 Posts: 25,106
    edited January 2009
    Options
    EDIT:

    Actually the unit was probably manufactured around 1993-1994 not 97-98. I'll go to the "old" peoples store and get a lighted magnifyer........that's a good idea!
    "Appreciation of audio is a completely subjective human experience. Measurements can provide a measure of insight, but are no substitute for human judgment. Why are we looking to reduce a subjective experience to objective criteria anyway? The subtleties of music and audio reproduction are for those who appreciate it. Differentiation by numbers is for those who do not".--Nelson Pass Pass Labs XA25 | EE Avant Pre | EE Mini Max Supreme DAC | MIT Shotgun S1 | Pangea AC14SE MKII | Legend L600 | BlueSound Node 3 - Tubes add soul!
  • dual810
    dual810 Posts: 1
    edited September 2010
    Options
    BigMac wrote: »
    Hi. I have no repair experience at all but here is a schematic of the insides of your unit. I could not find a repair manual but if I do I will post it. Hope this makes sense to you or someone else. It is Greek to me,lol. Hope this helps you out some.

    Link: http://www.sendspace.com/file/ye28sr

    This is an old thread but this is the only one I've found about a schematic for the Adcom GCA 510. Unfortunately, the above link is dead.

    Can someone, who already benefited from the above link, upload the schematic to a permanent site for free manuals? Thanks!