Sda crs+

leroyjr1
leroyjr1 Posts: 8,785
edited January 2009 in Vintage Speakers
Just got a new set of Crs+ 's and was trying to figure out how to take the crossovers out. I tried holding the crossover while unscrewing the bolt in the back , but it just keeps spinning.

My plans are to do a

4.l Tl upgrade
make 100% new cabinets (dark cherry)


Has anyone made new cabinets for their SDA's?

Thanks





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Post edited by leroyjr1 on
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  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,744
    edited January 2009
    There is a nut on the inside of the large induction (round black plastic with copper wire) which is suppose to be glued in place. Yours has come unglued and the nut is spinning. You will have to pop the crossover board off the induction to access the nut.

    As for the cabinets, simply re-veneer the originals.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."

    President of Club Polk

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  • NJPOLKER
    NJPOLKER Posts: 3,474
    edited January 2009
    That is a beautiful looking pair of speakers and stands. I bet they sound good and will sound great once the upgrade is complete.
    If I remember correctly you need a 11mm socket to hold the nut while using an allen wrench to unscrew the bolt to remove the x-over.
    Drew
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  • george daniel
    george daniel Posts: 12,096
    edited January 2009
    Had that happen once,, one thing that worked for me was, use a highspeed drill with proper attachment,whlie another person applied a gentle pressure in the other direction,, bam,, came right off,, but be careful doing it,, good luck.
    JC approves....he told me so. (F-1 nut)
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  • leroyjr1
    leroyjr1 Posts: 8,785
    edited January 2009
    NJPOLKER wrote: »
    That is a beautiful looking pair of speakers and stands. I bet they sound good and will sound great once the upgrade is complete.
    If I remember correctly you need a 11mm socket to hold the nut while using an allen wrench to unscrew the bolt to remove the x-over.
    Drew



    Man they are in perfect condition realwood veneer, upgraded tweeters, original stands in great shape. I would rate them 9/10. I just hate the color. The box needs resealing but that easy.
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  • inspiredsports
    inspiredsports Posts: 5,501
    edited January 2009
    george daniel wrote: »
    Had that happen once,, one thing that worked for me was, use a highspeed drill with proper attachment,whlie another person applied a gentle pressure in the other direction,, bam,, came right off,, but be careful doing it,, good luck.

    Careful is right . . . too much friction and the nut will heat up and burn/melt right through the thin inductor plastic.
    VTL ST50 w/mods / RCA6L6GC / TlfnknECC801S
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  • engtaz
    engtaz Posts: 7,664
    edited January 2009
    Sweet speakers. Look gourgous and with upgraded tweets, super sweet.

    engtaz
    engtaz

    I love how music can brighten up a bad day.
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  • zingo
    zingo Posts: 11,258
    edited January 2009
    Is that the RDO194 tweeter on those? I would also agree also with re-veneering them instead of rebuilding the boxes. It would cost a lot more time and money, and would be hard to get to Polk specs.

    PS. Great speakers and the SRS 4.1TLs are worth it. :D
    Jake
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  • leroyjr1
    leroyjr1 Posts: 8,785
    edited January 2009
    engtaz wrote: »
    Sweet speakers. Look gourgous and with upgraded tweets, super sweet.

    engtaz

    Now lets see if I over paid. How much would you have paid.
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  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,744
    edited January 2009
    If you paid more than fiddy five, you paid too much.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."

    President of Club Polk

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  • John30_30
    John30_30 Posts: 1,024
    edited January 2009
    leroyjr1 wrote: »
    Man they are in perfect condition realwood veneer, upgraded tweeters, original stands in great shape. I would rate them 9/10. I just hate the color. The box needs resealing but that easy.

    Shame to redo the whole thing just because you don't like that color....veneer can usually be refinished if it's in as good shape as those look.
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  • Mike Reeter
    Mike Reeter Posts: 4,315
    edited January 2009
    John30_30 wrote: »
    Shame to redo the whole thing just because you don't like that color....veneer can usually be refinished if it's in as good shape as those look.

    I think the problem is that is not veneer,but a vinyl covering...getting ready to strip the vinyl off my set and re-veneer myself.
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  • leroyjr1
    leroyjr1 Posts: 8,785
    edited January 2009
    Mike Reeter wrote: »
    I think the problem is that is not veneer,but a vinyl covering...getting ready to strip the vinyl off my set and re-veneer myself.



    They're real wood not vinyl. Might end getting rid of these and getting a beat up set . All I really need is the crossovers everything else is going to be brand new. Doesn't really make sense IMO to mess up a great pair of SDA's.

    My 2 week vacation is coming up. I haven't did any DIY project around the house in a long time. I love building things that's why I want to tackle this small project and have a nice set of speakers that I can keep for another 30 years.

    I'm guessing it would run me about $800 for a total rebuild.
    New drivers and tweeters are going to run me $300 from Polk .
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  • leroyjr1
    leroyjr1 Posts: 8,785
    edited January 2009
    zingo wrote: »
    Is that the RDO194 tweeter on those? I would also agree also with re-veneering them instead of rebuilding the boxes. It would cost a lot more time and money, and would be hard to get to Polk specs.

    PS. Great speakers and the SRS 4.1TLs are worth it. :D



    Yes they are the RDO194's
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  • leroyjr1
    leroyjr1 Posts: 8,785
    edited January 2009
    John30_30 wrote: »
    Shame to redo the whole thing just because you don't like that color....veneer can usually be refinished if it's in as good shape as those look.

    Can the wood veneer get sanded and restained or do they have to get a total veneer redo?
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  • Mike Reeter
    Mike Reeter Posts: 4,315
    edited January 2009
    leroyjr1 wrote: »
    They're real wood not vinyl..

    Shows what I know:D

    Good luck on your project,sounds like fun.
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  • engtaz
    engtaz Posts: 7,664
    edited January 2009
    F1nut wrote: »
    If you paid more than fiddy five, you paid too much.

    :D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D your so bad :D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D
    engtaz

    I love how music can brighten up a bad day.
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  • John30_30
    John30_30 Posts: 1,024
    edited January 2009
    leroyjr1 wrote: »
    Can the wood veneer get sanded and restained or do they have to get a total veneer redo?

    Depending on the thickness of the veneer and how careful you are, usually yes. I'm thinking typical thickness is around 3/64ths.
    Or you could take a chemical stripper to it, but that may loosen the glue, and it's nasty stuff to work with.
    I'd take some #220 or 180 to it and hand sand it with the grain, easy as she goes, and see what it looks like. If you're wanting a darker finish that you think you can blend in, all you have to do is bust through the topcoat if it's lacquer, or rough it up if it's oil. The more of the pigment you take out, the closer to natural raw oak you'll get. Either way you don't have to sand much into the veneer itself.

    If you do sand through it in a spot, then you can replace it knowing you tried this first.
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  • tx_polkhead
    tx_polkhead Posts: 248
    edited January 2009
    I paid $150 for mine (with cable, stands and a Pioneer 7.1 AVR) but they are not in as good a condition as yours appear to be in. Mine have the SL2000 Silver Coil Dome (which I like but have not had the opportunity to hear the RDO), all 4 dust caps on the mid drivers were dented (I have them 95% fixed, masking tape method). And lastly mine are the dark vinyl covered ones. My first thought while loading them in the car was I'll veneer them. Now that the speakers are set up in the bedroom they look pretty good (I'll still veneer them someday) we have deep dark red walls ('Velvet Merlot' actually HA!) with sheer maroon curtains and the speakers really blend into the room. I said all that to say ok how much did you pay for them?
    Abel
    Polk Audio RTA 12c's, Monitor 7c, Monitor 5JR+, SDA CRS+
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  • rayslifecycle
    rayslifecycle Posts: 511
    edited January 2009
    I paid 100 bucks for mine - so I guess I paid too much.........

    regardless - I love them
    http://rayslifecycle.blogspot.com/
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  • leroyjr1
    leroyjr1 Posts: 8,785
    edited January 2009
    I've seen beat up vinyl veneer, no upgraded tweeters, no stands CRS's go for $150+ shipping
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  • Mike Reeter
    Mike Reeter Posts: 4,315
    edited January 2009
    clarknova_666 wrote: »
    I paid 100 bucks for mine - so I guess I paid too much.........

    regardless - I love them

    Id say that's a very good price considering what some have sold for

    http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?t=65613
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  • Hobbyguy
    Hobbyguy Posts: 317
    edited January 2009
    Hey Lee, I bought the 10Bs from you...Gotta say GREAT DEAL! Thanks! I love them! Good Luck with your project ....If you want tips on woodworking the guys at Rockler or Woodcraft on HWY 100 are very knowledgeable.
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  • leroyjr1
    leroyjr1 Posts: 8,785
    edited January 2009
    Hobbyguy wrote: »
    Hey Lee, I bought the 10Bs from you...Gotta say GREAT DEAL! Thanks! I love them! Good Luck with your project ....If you want tips on woodworking the guys at Rockler or Woodcraft on HWY 100 are very knowledgeable.


    Enjoy, I miss them already
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