Slotted brake rotors?

disneyjoe7
disneyjoe7 Posts: 11,435
edited December 2008 in The Clubhouse
Ok Car nuts :)


Shouldn't brakes be all the same, like shouldn't the rotors / pads be the same type / brand? The problem I have is I'm using EBC Sport Slotted and Dimpled rotors in the front along with EBC Green pads. The issue is that they do STOP ;) they can make noise at times. :( I need to replace the back brakes now disk also. Should I replace it with the same as the front, so they are all the same. Or could I replace the rotors with an EBC Slotted only which are stated to be quieter then the others. Both then the look would be different :eek: Acura TL-s 2003

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Post edited by disneyjoe7 on

Comments

  • Jstas
    Jstas Posts: 14,806
    edited December 2008
    No, I'm running Raybestos' crossdrilled and slotted rotors with Hawk Carbon-Metallic pads up front and stock solid rotors with another set of Hawk Ferro-Carbon pads out back. The reason I put the crossdrilled up front is because the stock rotors would warp and chew up pads like a fat kid eating pixie stix. When I went with the crossdrilled and slotted rotors, no more problems. I have braided lines to install too for the front end, just haven't gotten around to doing it yet.

    The biggest benefit in the hi-po rotors is heat dissipation. The front end sees much more braking stress than the rear. That's because when you are braking, all the weight is transferred forward and the front brakes take the lion's share of it. The rear brakes are really just there to stabilize the vehicle and reduce strain on the front. Most cars can stop using just the front brakes. It is highly unrecommended though.

    So no, you don't have to put the expensive brakes out back. I'd put the good pads on though, they will make a difference. Hell, with the Hawk pads all around on my truck with 12 inch brakes up front and 13 inch brakes out back, I have to peel my eyeballs off of the windshield in a panic stop!
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  • vlam
    vlam Posts: 282
    edited December 2008
    I have the same year/make car so take it for what it's worth.

    I have very good success with using the EBC greenstuff and slotted (not cross-drilled) rotor for the front. For the rear, I am still on my original rotor (60K miles).

    The front EBC wear out very quickly so when I replace the front this summer, I found cheap (discontinued) Raybestos ceramic at local pepboys for $14(front) $11 (rear). I have no problem with these at all.

    If you need to replace your rear rotor, I suggest just getting Brembo blanks from tireracks.

    Check your local Pepboys for 2nd generation TL pads... This was the cheapest brake change I've ever done.
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  • disneyjoe7
    disneyjoe7 Posts: 11,435
    edited December 2008
    The car has about 60k miles, the rear rotors are not too bad its need to replace the pads. But for another $154 for the rear rotors they will look all the same. I agree the front brakes are the one who work, so if the rear brakes don't work so hard whould they be making noise at times? They are not dilled they are dimpled see this link. http://www.buybrakes.com/store/EBC-GD7194

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  • PolkThug
    PolkThug Posts: 7,532
    edited December 2008
    For noise, the rears may need a little grease on the backs of the pads (NOT the front of the pad or rotor surface area).
  • vlam
    vlam Posts: 282
    edited December 2008
    I think the dimpled rotors are known to make more noise (from what I read on Acurazine). I didn't use EBC rotor. Mine were power slot. I have them on the MDX and TL and they are much better than stock.

    I doubt that slot/dimpled would in the rear would make the front work any less. IMHO, it's pure cosmetic to upgrade the rear. If you upgrade the caliber and pad size, that's a different story.
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  • Jstas
    Jstas Posts: 14,806
    edited December 2008
    Brakes make noise for many reasons.

    Carbon based brakes in any capacity are noisy because carbon pads need to heat up before they stop squealing. Makes them undesirable on the street driven vehicles 'cause they don't see constant heat like a race car.

    Dirt and brake dust can make brakes squeal too. The squealing isn't exactly a squeal from something scraping. It's a high frequency vibration due to uneven loading and unloading across the braking surface. That's why shims and disc brake grease are used. It keeps pads from vibrating and squealing against rotors, pistons, brackets and calipers.

    Worn brakes will squeal. They have wear tabs that are meant to contact the rotor and squeal loudly so that you will go check them out. Also, when the pad material gets too thin to dissipate heat properly, it can harden from that excessive heat and fracture or pit or both. That causes vibrations and squealing also.

    Rear brakes tend to make more noise because they are often neglected because they don't wear as fast. Some simple fixes are to grab non-chlorinated brake cleaner and a typical hammer. Take the wheel off and tap the caliper firmly, don't slam it, just enough to jar the dust loose. Shoot the whole thing with the brake cleaner. You might want to put a bucket underneath 'cause it stains the driveway or floor. That will quiet them down some. If the pads are still good (i.e.: more than 50% material left), get a shim kit and some grease for them and pull them, install the greased kit and reinstall. Also, grease the caliper bolts and pad slide rails. If they bind up, they will cause squealing too. Also check the caliper for proper operation. A seized caliper or dragging caliper will also cause squealing. Replacement or rebuilding will cause you to have to bleed the brakes, unfortunately.

    If you have drum brakes and they are squealing, back off the auto adjuster with a drum brake spoon or standard screwdriver. Take the hammer and whale on the drum to loosen it up and then pull it off. Dump the crap stuck in the drum out and check for even wear on the shoes. If it is uneven, they aren't adjusted properly or dragging so check the wheel cylinder, that is likely bad. The adjuster might be bad also but that's doubtful unless it is seized. Also, the springs might be worn. You'll need to replace those shoes though so get new shoes and a new spring kit. If you have a bad wheel cylinder you'll have to bleed them after you replace it. Unless the drum is really badly scored or has a massive wear lip, you shouldn't need to replace it.
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  • disneyjoe7
    disneyjoe7 Posts: 11,435
    edited December 2008
    This noise is Vlam heard about dimpled rotors, they can be fairly quiet, they can sound if you're on an airplane at times, or really make noise if you're standing on them. :D When standing on them they can make all the noise they need too, its fine with me. The original brakes where scary at times, when you need them they got worst, I would get out of car white knuckled.

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  • goingganzo
    goingganzo Posts: 2,793
    edited December 2008
    akebono and get some treated rotors
  • BrettT1
    BrettT1 Posts: 560
    edited December 2008
    Jstas wrote: »
    like a fat kid eating pixie stix. QUOTE]

    :D
  • XJRGUY
    XJRGUY Posts: 258
    edited December 2008
    disneyjoe7 wrote: »
    Ok Car nuts :)


    Shouldn't brakes be all the same, like shouldn't the rotors / pads be the same type / brand? The problem I have is I'm using EBC Sport Slotted and Dimpled rotors in the front along with EBC Green pads. The issue is that they do STOP ;) they can make noise at times. :( I need to replace the back brakes now disk also. Should I replace it with the same as the front, so they are all the same. Or could I replace the rotors with an EBC Slotted only which are stated to be quieter then the others. Both then the look would be different :eek: Acura TL-s 2003

    I have the EBC dimpled and slotted on my Volvo C70 HPT.

    When it came time to do brakes, I bought different Volvo caliper brackets and upgraded the stock 280mm front rotors with 302mm EBC's.

    I also replaced the stock rear rotors with EBC slotted and dimpled.

    Pads were Akebono Ceramic Euro's

    The slotted and dimpled rotors do make noise when braking. They also make noise when no brakes are applied. It's simply the pads hitting the slots and dimples on the rotor.

    The brakes work much better than stock (but in reality good tires are the best braking upgrade)

    When it comes time to replace the brakes on my other vehicles I will be replacing the stock pieces again with EBC slotted and dimpled, even though I run Brembo rotors on the other high HP cars in my stable, the EBC's are very well built.

    Rear brakes "usually" only provide 20% of the stopping power of the vehicle, however I do like to keep all the parts from the same vendor if possible.

    Haven't had any problem at all with the EBC rotors, and I have been using Akebono ceramic pads in all my vehicles since approx. 2001 when doing brake jobs. The wheels are kept very clean when using this pad.
  • disneyjoe7
    disneyjoe7 Posts: 11,435
    edited December 2008
    I was just afraid if I was going to replace the back brakes with EBC slotted and dimpled rotors the noise would increase X2 in the passenger department. I sure if it would based on the brake system balance, they being in the rear also.

    XJRGUY, I always heard good things about EBC Green, if you used EBC rotors why not EBC pads?

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  • XJRGUY
    XJRGUY Posts: 258
    edited December 2008
    disneyjoe7 wrote: »
    I was just afraid if I was going to replace the back brakes with EBC slotted and dimpled rotors the noise would increase X2 in the passenger department. I sure if it would based on the brake system balance, they being in the rear also.

    XJRGUY, I always heard good things about EBC Green, if you used EBC rotors why not EBC pads?

    Hi Joe,

    The rear rotors on my C70 are not vented like the fronts, but instead they are solid. The majority of the "whooshing" sound is attributed to the front brakes on my vehicle. The cabin noise (and this car is a convertible) is noticeable but I am a gearhead so I think it sounds cool (along with the Turbo!) Considering the benefits these rotors bring to the table for my driving style (brake hard and late) the added noise doesn't bother me.

    EBC makes great pads that's for sure. I only stick with the Akebono's because I have repeatedly used them over the years in place of OEM with EXCELLENT results on several types and makes of cars, including when I have done full brake jobs on friend's cars too. If I were to use EBC pads I would go with EBC Red or Yellow pads for my applications.

    I used to only use Brembo blank rotors when I did a brake job, and only recently in the last 2 years did I venture to something different in replacement rotors with the EBC's for the volvo. It cost a lot more than the Brembo's but I believe the performance and braking characteristics along with the Akebono pad are terrific, wet or dry.

    Hope this helps!
  • disneyjoe7
    disneyjoe7 Posts: 11,435
    edited December 2008
    Ok I going to do it EBC all around, now it should stop when you need to Hard and Late. :)
    I use the Green pads due to the KMart driving mode my wife does to the car, its really her car. I just picked it out ;)

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