Quick question about wiring rtis with different gauges and binding posts

ZOOPDOOP22

Very easy question for someone who knows.

I know its lame but im using two different gauge speaker wires. 14 and 16

I have RTi8s biwired with the r and l channels at 14 gauge. These are connected to the LOWER 2 binding posts on my RTis. The SBR and SBL channels are 16 gauge and going to the upper 2 binding posts.

My CSi5 has 16 gauge from all 4 binding posts going to the center channel sockets (should I even do this or should I just use the copper plates instead)

I have about 20 ft of speaker wire that is 14 gauge. Should I use it for my center channel for all 4 binding posts, or should I divide it in 2 and get 14 gauge going to the upper binding posts on my RTi8s?

Furthermore, do the lower binding posts control the woofers or the tweeter? (or how does this system work?) I just want the least resistance going to my woofers so I'm trying to optimize.

Thanks!

ZOOPDOOP22

I want to add that I know I should probably be getting uniform wire of the same thick gauge, probably in wall wires soldered to plugs with the heat shrink seal but I can't afford to do this just yet. Any explanation of my above questions would be appreciated as it would increase my understanding of the hardware.

mmadden28

sdschwendener wrote: »

...I have RTi8s biwired with the r and l channels at 14 gauge. These are connected to the LOWER 2 binding posts on my RTis. The SBR and SBL channels are 16 gauge and going to the upper 2 binding posts.
...

I think you mean bi-amping as opposed to bi-wiring if you're using your AVR's surround backs to do it. I'm assuming you set your AVR to bi-amp as well right?

anonymouse wrote: »

...Many people report that replacing the plates with high quality wire yields better results....

If you're bi-wiring or bi-amping, the jumper 'plates' should be removed. This is especially important when bi-amping. You only need the jumper (stock or upgraded) when running a straight single run.