For 49 cents - can't go wrong but where ??
begbie
Posts: 630
At www.audiorevolution.com , they recommend a 49 cent ground floater to kill ac hum. Worth a try but the local Home Depot (Canada) doesn't carry this 49 cent piece ?! Anyone ever try this and how well has it worked? Anywhere else I can find this piece?? Or am I just in the wrong department at Homedepot?
Here's the desciption from their site (under rewards section)
"Home depot brand Ground Floater-49 cents
AC ground hum is an evil **** that needs to be attacked with reckless abandon. Before you clip the third prong from the AC power plug on the offending component try a 49 cent ground floater from Home Depot. Any good installer will tell you, they can be a life saver and a hum killer."
Here's the desciption from their site (under rewards section)
"Home depot brand Ground Floater-49 cents
AC ground hum is an evil **** that needs to be attacked with reckless abandon. Before you clip the third prong from the AC power plug on the offending component try a 49 cent ground floater from Home Depot. Any good installer will tell you, they can be a life saver and a hum killer."
Polk Rt800i -Fronts
Polk cs400i -Center
Polk fx500i -side surrounds
Polk rc60i -rear surrounds
Onkyo TX-NR 1009 (9.2) receiver
Velodyne cht12
Polk psw111
Polk cs400i -Center
Polk fx500i -side surrounds
Polk rc60i -rear surrounds
Onkyo TX-NR 1009 (9.2) receiver
Velodyne cht12
Polk psw111
Post edited by begbie on
Comments
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Cheater Plug, Rat shack has em'.Check your lips at the door woman. Shake your hips like battleships. Yeah, all the white girls trip when I sing at Sunday service.
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Thanks Russman ! I'll try my luck there !Polk Rt800i -Fronts
Polk cs400i -Center
Polk fx500i -side surrounds
Polk rc60i -rear surrounds
Onkyo TX-NR 1009 (9.2) receiver
Velodyne cht12
Polk psw111 -
I just bought RM6800 and the subwoofer makes a very low hum. It hums just with the power chord connected.
I suspect it's from transformer. The sub plug is two pin and I have the 3 pin socket. would this cheater plug help and is it still available (replying to a 2002 thread). -
Nope, wont help you. Sorry. What the cheater plug does it remove the ground plug from a 3 prong wire and make it act like a 2 prong plug. (without cutting the end off the plug and just putting a 2 prong plug on there)
Since you are starting with a 2 prong plug, your problem lies elsewhere....
Good luck.
MichaelMains.............Polk LSi15 (Cherry)
Center............Polk LSiC (Crossover upgraded)
Surrounds.......Polk LSi7 (Gloss Black - wood sides removed and crossovers upgraded)
Subwoofers.....SVS 25-31 CS+ and PC+ (both 20hz tune)
Pre\Pro...........NAD T163 (Modded with LM4562 opamps)
Amplifier.........Cinepro 3k6 (6-channel, 500wpc@4ohms) -
Don't cut off third prong... it's there for a reason. It grounds the external chassis of equipment so in the event the hot wire comes in contact with it the circuit breaker will (should) trip. Removing the ground prong or using a cheater will not prevent what is in all likelihood a 60 cycle A/C hum, nor will it prevent you from getting jolted should that situation occur. Michael (above) is correct. I would try a decent line conditioner or UPS, as most of them rectify A/C to D/C and back again.So, are you willing to put forth a little effort or are you happy sitting in your skeptical poo pile?
http://audiomilitia.proboards.com/ -
polrbehr wrote:Don't cut off third prong... it's there for a reason. It grounds the external chassis of equipment so in the event the hot wire comes in contact with it the circuit breaker will (should) trip. Removing the ground prong or using a cheater will not prevent what is in all likelihood a 60 cycle A/C hum, nor will it prevent you from getting jolted should that situation occur. Michael (above) is correct. I would try a decent line conditioner or UPS, as most of them rectify A/C to D/C and back again.
Cheater plugs aren't terribly dangerous for amplifiers... and many amps have a ground lift switch that does the same thing. It's not the best solution, but it works. A better (and safe) fix would be to replace the outlet with a GFCI and only hook up the hot and neutral lines. This meets code and will effectively be the same as using the cheater plug.Gallo Ref 3.1 : Bryston 4b SST : Musical fidelity CD Pre : VPI HW-19
Gallo Ref AV, Frankengallo Ref 3, LC60i : Bryston 9b SST : Meridian 565
Jordan JX92s : MF X-T100 : Xray v8
Backburner:Krell KAV-300i -
If you're going to replace the outlet anyway without hooking up a ground wire, save yourself some money and just buy a duplex receptacle. Hooking up
a Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter without a ground isn't going to accomplish much. I was addressing the (potential) danger of removing the ground prong in general, not specifcally for amplifiers, which I agree don't draw much current.So, are you willing to put forth a little effort or are you happy sitting in your skeptical poo pile?
http://audiomilitia.proboards.com/ -
polrbehr wrote:If you're going to replace the outlet anyway without hooking up a ground wire, save yourself some money and just buy a duplex receptacle. Hooking up
a Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter without a ground isn't going to accomplish much. I was addressing the (potential) danger of removing the ground prong in general, not specifcally for amplifiers, which I agree don't draw much current.
The potential danger of removing a ground plug can be avoided by using a ground fault receptacle as I described. Any voltage on the chassis would trip the outlet. This is also a way to add three prong outlets to older wiring without the ground. Anything downstream from the GFCI is protected.Gallo Ref 3.1 : Bryston 4b SST : Musical fidelity CD Pre : VPI HW-19
Gallo Ref AV, Frankengallo Ref 3, LC60i : Bryston 9b SST : Meridian 565
Jordan JX92s : MF X-T100 : Xray v8
Backburner:Krell KAV-300i -
I couldn't get a GFCI to trip without intentionally creating a short circuit, but it will, as you describe, protect whatever is plugged in to it whether the ground is connected or not, so you're suggestion is actually a great ($$$) alternative to a line conditioner or UPS for amp/equipment protection, as well
as being useful for older wiring. I would just add that you must connect any wires downstream to the "load" terminals on the GFCI, for anyone interested.So, are you willing to put forth a little effort or are you happy sitting in your skeptical poo pile?
http://audiomilitia.proboards.com/